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moller posted:I'm moving house and don't feel like dragging the three (complete, working) SGI Octanes that have been in my closet for a decade with me. Any suggestions on something I should do with them besides leaving them out for the metal strippers or taking them to a recycling place? You should be able to sell them on eBay for a decent amount. Since you say they work, they usually go for over a $100 each before adding on the shipping.
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Sep 18, 2014 03:18
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Just wanted to touch base and say this seems to have done the trick, thanks!
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Sep 19, 2014 07:23
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My coworker is convinced that IE 11 is the fastest, bestest browser and will not accept any other answer. This makes me angry, as we both work at a Help Desk. Do you guys know of any good benchmarking sites for browsers that I can beat him over the head with, before I resort to spare towers?
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Sep 19, 2014 22:52
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Takkaryx posted:My coworker is convinced that IE 11 is the fastest, bestest browser and will not accept any other answer. This makes me angry, as we both work at a Help Desk. Do you guys know of any good benchmarking sites for browsers that I can beat him over the head with, before I resort to spare towers? IE 11 actually is very fast, and since it doesn't really support extensions it'll often be snappier than Chrome or Firefox. That's what he's probably comparing to.
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Sep 19, 2014 23:01
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I recently purchased a Macbook Pro, and I'd like to get rid of my old desktop, since all of the hardware except the HDDs is from about 2008. However, I have about 2 terabytes of data spread over 3 internal SATA HDDs, which I'd like to keep using as external storage. Is there any kind of enclosure that will adapt an internal SATA drive to thunderbolt or USB? The only thing I can find is a Seagate GoFlex adapter which looks like its specifically for Seagate's GoFlex drives. Not sure it'll work with others.
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Sep 19, 2014 23:39
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Farrok posted:I recently purchased a Macbook Pro, and I'd like to get rid of my old desktop, since all of the hardware except the HDDs is from about 2008. However, I have about 2 terabytes of data spread over 3 internal SATA HDDs, which I'd like to keep using as external storage. Is there any kind of enclosure that will adapt an internal SATA drive to thunderbolt or USB? The only thing I can find is a Seagate GoFlex adapter which looks like its specifically for Seagate's GoFlex drives. Not sure it'll work with others. USB adapters are very common. Check Newegg for, like, Vantec or Rosewill or even Thermaltake. Thunderbolt adapters are most common from storage specialty company LaCie. But a quick look suggests you may only be able to get them with a disk pre-installed. E: Maybe Buffalo. Check out MacMall.com Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Sep 19, 2014 |
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Sep 19, 2014 23:43
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Takkaryx posted:My coworker is convinced that IE 11 is the fastest, bestest browser and will not accept any other answer. This makes me angry, as we both work at a Help Desk. Do you guys know of any good benchmarking sites for browsers that I can beat him over the head with, before I resort to spare towers? Stop giving a poo poo. Seriously. It's not like they are using IE6 or something
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Sep 19, 2014 23:52
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Looking for an external USB 3.0 HD, 1-2TB. What are the good brands/models? WD, Seagate?
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Sep 20, 2014 00:59
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Alereon posted:Yes the WD Red is a fine drive, and there's no way to predict how long a failing drive will limp along but you should certainly copy off any data you care about before it does completely.
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Sep 20, 2014 01:16
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Massasoit posted:Looking for an external USB 3.0 HD, 1-2TB. What are the good brands/models? WD, Seagate? You've listed the ONLY brands. Well, maybe Toshiba. Most people prefer to get their own drive and a separate dock. The warranty support is usually longer and the dock is usually better at keeping the drive cool. Plus it's easy to crack open and put the drive into a computer if the dock fails or you need to repurpose the disk or whatever. Goonsensus seems to vaguely favor WD over Seagate because Seagate raced to the bottom on drive quality and warranty a couple years ago, and it's unclear if they've changed their ways. Just watch out for drives that are powered by a single USB plug - those usually have the USB connector directly attached to the drive's controller board, with no option to plug the drive in via SATA if the USB bridge dies.
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Sep 20, 2014 02:50
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Takkaryx posted:My coworker is convinced that IE 11 is the fastest, bestest browser and will not accept any other answer. This makes me angry, as we both work at a Help Desk. Do you guys know of any good benchmarking sites for browsers that I can beat him over the head with, before I resort to spare towers? I've hated IE for a loooong time but IE 11 is supposedly good and very un-IE like.
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Sep 20, 2014 03:06
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Factory Factory posted:You've listed the ONLY brands. Well, maybe Toshiba. Also you can get the cooler toaster style docks, and who doesn't want to put their hard drive in a toaster?
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Sep 20, 2014 03:18
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Can I use Silverstone cables with a Seasonic PSU?
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Sep 22, 2014 13:44
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everythingWasBees posted:Can I use Silverstone cables with a Seasonic PSU? Almost definitely no. Modular cables are not standardized.
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Sep 22, 2014 13:55
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everythingWasBees posted:Can I use Silverstone cables with a Seasonic PSU? Do not even think of using modular cables other than the ones that come with the PSU, unless you've meticulously studied the pinouts closely. But if you had, you wouldn't be asking this question. HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 13:58 on Sep 22, 2014 |
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Sep 22, 2014 13:56
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an idle temp of 60° is uhhh real bad right and is probably why all my games run like poo poo?
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Sep 25, 2014 02:04
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shallowj posted:an idle temp of 60° is uhhh real bad right and is probably why all my games run like poo poo? Its worse if thats AMD, but either way 60 degrees is bad for idle yes. If your games run like poo poo its probably because its throttling under load. See your cpu utilization % when you're idling (ie not running 100% all the time, bot, malware, virus, etc). If it's just idling at 60 degrees for real re mount your heatsink with new paste
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Sep 25, 2014 02:21
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Hey guys, posted this in the new build thread, but think it is more apt here: Any idea why my Mobo temp is saying it is 114 degrees C??? Just built my new pc, everything seems to be working fine, but checking temps the mobo is mental. What gives? Thanks for any ideas! Edit: Will just say that the temp is steady, it doesnt change, when I open HWMonitor, it says 113, 114, or 117 and stays at that.
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Sep 25, 2014 19:00
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Probably a bad sensor or some such. I've never looked at any temps aside from my CPU, GPU and HDD's.
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Sep 25, 2014 19:35
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Cross-post from the building thread: Try checking it with HWiNFO or AIDA64 instead. Make sure HWMonitor is fully updated as well as the sensor apps are frequently updated to recalibrate for newer bus/chipset sensors. It seems really unlikely given the numbers but maybe it's a VRM sensor? Does your board have heatsinks over the VRM section by the CPU? Maybe try placing a fan over the CPU area and see if it changes.
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Sep 25, 2014 19:46
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Gothmog1065 posted:Probably a bad sensor or some such. I've never looked at any temps aside from my CPU, GPU and HDD's. Thanks for the answer, guessing the same. I am thinking a bad sensor should be nothing to worry about? I just stress tested the build with p95, and my CPU hit 79 degrees C before I quit - since I have a Coolermaster Hyper 212 I thought I wouldn't hit such a high temp? Was expecting 70C at most? Should I take the cooler off and put on new thermal paste? Sorry for the newbie questions, I rarely keep up to date with PC build until I am building a new one (every 4 years or so) Pogue_Mahone fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Sep 25, 2014 |
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Sep 25, 2014 21:11
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Pogue_Mahone posted:Thanks for the answer, guessing the same. I am thinking a bad sensor should be nothing to worry about? I just stress tested the build with p95, and my CPU hit 79 degrees C before I quit - since I have a Coolermaster Hyper 212 I thought I wouldn't hit such a high temp? Was expecting 70C at most? Should I take the cooler off and put on new thermal paste? Technical details: The Small FFT test uses the AVX2 instructions, which generate so much CPU load that it switches to a special high-voltage mode that is only used for AVX2. This drastically increases power consumption, well beyond what can be easily dissipated out of the CPU. The In-Place FFT test is more consistent with the maximum CPU load you will see in the real world. Blend alternates between them. Basically the Prime95 AVX2 tests are like Furmark for your CPU, it's valuable to make sure your CPU doesn't crash or power-off under maximum theoretical power consumption, but you don't need to worry about the temperatures you see. This also means that for overclockers you need to be careful when overvolting that the additional AVX2 boost isn't too high, or switch voltages to fully manual mode so the automatic boost doesn't happen. Alereon fucked around with this message at 01:43 on Sep 26, 2014 |
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Sep 26, 2014 01:41
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Thanks for the reply, Yeah I tried both of the tests, the second test you mention did bring in a lower temperature (75C?). I just played some Diablo 3 for an hour or so and max temp for CPU hit 66C, so that is alright I suppose. Would be slightly worried if it went above 70 on a game such as D3. Got to say my GTX 970 is pretty amazing though, fans barely even come on when I am playing run of the mill games.... Good purchase!
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Sep 26, 2014 14:46
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I guess this is the best place for this question, but feel free to redirect me. We have a bunch of old home movies from when I was a kid, in a mixture of VHS and 8mm formats. What would be the most cost-effective way to digitize them for preservation and sharing? Is there some sort of adapter that would let the computer "rip" the movies directly, or is there a place that offers it as a service that would be a better option? We still have the 8mm camcorder and S-video/RCA cables, so I'm sure that could be used for those, but we don't have anything at the moment that plays VHS. My mom also has a smattering of movies from her childhood, on film format. Same question I guess.
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Sep 29, 2014 21:27
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Fucknag posted:I guess this is the best place for this question, but feel free to redirect me. S-Video/RCA to USB encoder dongles are really inexpensive. If you have software and know-how, the hardware is like $15 generic, or more expensive with software packaged to make it easy. There are also video digitizing services that will do home movies for $20 a tape up to 2 hours. They'll also do tape for a per-foot fee (this one place I'm looking at will do it for $0.25 per foot, which works out to $5/minute at 24 frames/second).
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Sep 29, 2014 22:23
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I've just replaced the thermal paste on my Toshiba satellite laptop. I put the thing back together, and now there seems to be no power to either the display or the usb ports. The hdd seems to be working and the fan spins, but nothing else. I've drained the power, i've tried a different display, i've checked the ram, which seems fine. Anything obvious I'm missing or is it off to a shop? Or getting replaced?
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Oct 2, 2014 21:57
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This isn't super PC specific, but I recently purchased 3 USB microphones to record podcasts with my friends and I can't seem to record all three at the same time on Audacity/Audition/anything. Is it not possible to use several inputs at once? Do I need a mixer and, if so, are there mixers that take USB input and not just XLR? Sorry if this is the wrong forum or thread.
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Oct 3, 2014 00:38
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Greedish posted:This isn't super PC specific, but I recently purchased 3 USB microphones to record podcasts with my friends and I can't seem to record all three at the same time on Audacity/Audition/anything. Is it not possible to use several inputs at once? Do I need a mixer and, if so, are there mixers that take USB input and not just XLR? Sorry if this is the wrong forum or thread. Maybe check the Musician's Lounge as a more appropriate place for gear recommendations, stickied home recording thread or something. There are some podcasting threads scattered around these forums, but the technical knowhow doesn't seem very high there at first glance.
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Oct 3, 2014 01:21
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drat, sounds like I hosed up then. I don't really have a way to return these since I had them brought in from the US (I live in Brazil). I just thought it'd be as simple as plugging all three in and assigning each to a track in a recording program. I'm trying to mix them together into one input with VAC but it's not working super well so far. If anyone has any tips on how to salvage this mistake I'd love to hear them. edit: I did manage to mix two of them into a virtual cable on VAC which seems to work OK. It sucks that I can't get each mic to be a different track, but whatever. It should work with three as well, hopefully. edit 2: turns out Asio4All is a remarkable piece of software, and I can now record with multiple mics on multiple tracks with relatively low latency and great sound quality on Adobe Audition. Guess I didn't gently caress up as much as I thought. Greedish fucked around with this message at 02:56 on Oct 3, 2014 |
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Oct 3, 2014 01:40
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stickyfngrdboy posted:I've just replaced the thermal paste on my Toshiba satellite laptop. I put the thing back together, and now there seems to be no power to either the display or the usb ports. The hdd seems to be working and the fan spins, but nothing else.
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Oct 3, 2014 08:26
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Greedish posted:edit 2: turns out Asio4All is a remarkable piece of software, and I can now record with multiple mics on multiple tracks with relatively low latency and great sound quality on Adobe Audition. Guess I didn't gently caress up as much as I thought.
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Oct 3, 2014 09:50
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cisco privilege posted:Did you miss any screws when reinstalling or was the CPU heatsink not screwed down completely? Maybe try reseating the RAM sticks. Also what kind if thermal paste did you use? Some of them are conductive like AS5 that can be really bad for exposed laptop CPUs and GPUs. As far as I can tell every screw went back exactly where it came from, and I used Arctic silver 3. I'm going to strip it again and see what gives, thanks.
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Oct 3, 2014 12:22
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Setting up a server for PXE .iso deployment. Will two PCI single port NIC cards perform the same as a dual port NIC card?
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Oct 3, 2014 12:24
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stickyfngrdboy posted:As far as I can tell every screw went back exactly where it came from, and I used Arctic silver 3. I'm going to strip it again and see what gives, thanks. and twenty or so minutes later it's working again after a windows repair thing, although I have no idea what happened that was different, ha. thanks anyway cisco.
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Oct 3, 2014 12:42
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TSBX posted:Setting up a server for PXE .iso deployment. Will two PCI single port NIC cards perform the same as a dual port NIC card? PCI? As in legacy PCI? Identical performance, assuming all of the cards involved are the same PCI version. Either PCI 1.0 NICs will saturate the entire bus for a total of 133 MB/s of throughput (1064 Gb/s, 6.4% faster than a single connection), or PCI 2.0 NICs will manage their top GbE speeds, as long as there is no other PCI card on the bus.
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Oct 3, 2014 15:06
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I'm looking to sell some non-SSD hard drives and need to make sure everything is removed before giving to a stranger, years back I used DBAN but as each drive took 1-2 days to run multiple passes plus the fact I could not use my computer during this time I'd like a better option; if available. Running Windows 7 if that makes any difference. Thanks
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Oct 3, 2014 16:42
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Factory Factory posted:PCI? As in legacy PCI? Identical performance, assuming all of the cards involved are the same PCI version. Either PCI 1.0 NICs will saturate the entire bus for a total of 133 MB/s of throughput (1064 Gb/s, 6.4% faster than a single connection), or PCI 2.0 NICs will manage their top GbE speeds, as long as there is no other PCI card on the bus. Sorry, not legacy, PCI-E. Just need to know if I should buy two single port ethernet cards or one of the dual port ethernet cards.
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Oct 3, 2014 16:57
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TSBX posted:Sorry, not legacy, PCI-E. Just need to know if I should buy two single port ethernet cards or one of the dual port ethernet cards. It really doesn't matter except for how many free slots you have. whatupdet posted:I'm looking to sell some non-SSD hard drives and need to make sure everything is removed before giving to a stranger, years back I used DBAN but as each drive took 1-2 days to run multiple passes plus the fact I could not use my computer during this time I'd like a better option; if available. A single zero-fill pass will get past the limits of any demonstrated capability to recover from drives. You can do that with DBAN, or the useful Windows tool CCleaner also has a zero-fill drive wiper that would allow you to multitask. Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 17:00 on Oct 3, 2014 |
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Oct 3, 2014 16:58
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whatupdet posted:I'm looking to sell some non-SSD hard drives and need to make sure everything is removed before giving to a stranger, years back I used DBAN but as each drive took 1-2 days to run multiple passes plus the fact I could not use my computer during this time I'd like a better option; if available. You only need to do a single pass. There are probably some small freeware utilities that will fill the drive with zeros if you're in Windows. In Linux or MacOSX(?) you can just use dd.
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Oct 3, 2014 16:59
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Factory Factory posted:A single zero-fill pass will get past the limits of any demonstrated capability to recover from drives. You can do that with DBAN, or the useful Windows tool CCleaner also has a zero-fill drive wiper that would allow you to multitask. Thanks
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Oct 3, 2014 18:10
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