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aswang_pro
Sep 24, 2005

tulog na tayo
Been lurking on this thread for a little bit. Just started climbing a few months ago and the bug bit me really hard. Only climbed indoors, but I'm pretty solid on 5.8's and can knock out most 5.9's until they start throwing overhangs and roof sections at me. Really want to get good enough to start lead climbing, it looks like fun and there are so many routes at my gym that are lead only that I want to try (and fail at haha). Plus the lead sections never seem to get as jam packed as the top ropes.

Pedestrian Xing posted:

My climbing group got really busy so I hadn't climbed in months, but I just moved to Atlanta and wet to one of the gyms here. Any atlanta goons want to go climbing?

Sup. I'm in Atlanta and me and my buddy go to Stone Summit pretty much every Mon./Weds./Fri. from about 7pm-10pm and occasionally we throw in a Sat. or Sun. morning/afternoonish session. I want to go climb on some real rocks at some point but I don't really know anyone with any experience. (Well I have one friend who does, but he hasn't gone climbing in like 10 years).

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LarryCsonka
Nov 7, 2006
Oooh, I don't go map-finding-behinding

chami posted:



So I got a little bleeding under my calluses after a pretty rough bouldering session. It's nothing to be worried about, right? I just let it heal up for a day or two and go back on the wall? I'm used to calluses from deadlifting so they don't bother me but the blood is new.

You really need to be sanding your calluses down

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

aswang_pro posted:

Been lurking on this thread for a little bit. Just started climbing a few months ago and the bug bit me really hard. Only climbed indoors, but I'm pretty solid on 5.8's and can knock out most 5.9's until they start throwing overhangs and roof sections at me. Really want to get good enough to start lead climbing, it looks like fun and there are so many routes at my gym that are lead only that I want to try (and fail at haha). Plus the lead sections never seem to get as jam packed as the top ropes.


Sup. I'm in Atlanta and me and my buddy go to Stone Summit pretty much every Mon./Weds./Fri. from about 7pm-10pm and occasionally we throw in a Sat. or Sun. morning/afternoonish session. I want to go climb on some real rocks at some point but I don't really know anyone with any experience. (Well I have one friend who does, but he hasn't gone climbing in like 10 years).

You are already good enough to lead climb, unless your gym doesn't set anything down to 5.8. The bigger problem is if you are bad at overhang most gyms lead areas are over hung. Go do a bunch of over hung bouldering to build strength.

Pedestrian Xing
Jul 19, 2007

aswang_pro posted:

Sup. I'm in Atlanta and me and my buddy go to Stone Summit pretty much every Mon./Weds./Fri. from about 7pm-10pm and occasionally we throw in a Sat. or Sun. morning/afternoonish session. I want to go climb on some real rocks at some point but I don't really know anyone with any experience. (Well I have one friend who does, but he hasn't gone climbing in like 10 years).

The one at chamblee- tucker? That's the one I went to, its really nice. The power was out though, so it was sweltering. Kind of want to go again this weekend or next week.

aswang_pro
Sep 24, 2005

tulog na tayo

spwrozek posted:

You are already good enough to lead climb, unless your gym doesn't set anything down to 5.8. The bigger problem is if you are bad at overhang most gyms lead areas are over hung. Go do a bunch of over hung bouldering to build strength.

I've been doing a lot of top ropes with overhangs and I've gotten a lot better at it in the past couple weeks, but what usually messes with me is getting over the lip when it transitions back to a vertical. Tall folks on the same routes don't seem to have issues, but it takes me a little longer to figure out beta that works with my 5'6" Asian build. I do want to try my hand at some bouldering, but I get intimidated for no real reason other than I'm somewhat introverted and not really sure how to properly fall.


Pedestrian Xing posted:

The one at chamblee- tucker? That's the one I went to, its really nice. The power was out though, so it was sweltering. Kind of want to go again this weekend or next week.

That's the one. Yeah, I was there when they were running on generators with only like half the lights and no AC, it got real tropic in there. We're pretty much always there those weekday nights, so you can just find a brown guy with salt&pepper hair, mustache, and a houndstooth chalk bag and that's me. We'll be there tonight as well. If you want to do some climbing this weekend or just check to see if we gonna be there you can text me.

aswang_pro fucked around with this message at 06:27 on Sep 6, 2014

Pedestrian Xing
Jul 19, 2007

aswang_pro posted:

That's the one. Yeah, I was there when they were running on generators with only like half the lights and no AC, it got real tropic in there. We're pretty much always there those weekday nights, so you can just find a brown guy with salt&pepper hair, mustache, and a houndstooth chalk bag and that's me. We'll be there tonight as well. If you want to do some climbing this weekend or just check to see if we gonna be there you can text me

Sweet! I might try to go tomorrow afternoon/ evening. You can edit the number out if you like now.

dex_sda
Oct 11, 2012


chami posted:



So I got a little bleeding under my calluses after a pretty rough bouldering session. It's nothing to be worried about, right? I just let it heal up for a day or two and go back on the wall? I'm used to calluses from deadlifting so they don't bother me but the blood is new.

keep care of your calluses, jesus.

Let it heal up. It might end up peeling off, if it does, you can speed up the initial stage of healing if you use an oitment like Solcoseryl. In case that's unavailable under that brand name, it's a protein-free hemodialysate of calves blood ointment and aside from that being loving metal, the speed at which it heals nasty chafes is nothing short of magical. I've had torn-off skin the size of half a penny heal up in two days of applying it. Like, right to the meat, and it was basically only missing the epidermis after two days. If you have such a deep skin injury and can find it, I recommend it.

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005
Fallen Rib

aswang_pro posted:

I've been doing a lot of top ropes with overhangs and I've gotten a lot better at it in the past couple weeks, but what usually messes with me is getting over the lip when it transitions back to a vertical. Tall folks on the same routes don't seem to have issues, but it takes me a little longer to figure out beta that works with my 5'6" Asian build.

Tall people are always going to have the advantage of being able to reach through a crux and lank it, if you try to climb the same way you're not playing to your strengths.
Compactness allows you to coil up where a taller climber would need to stand lower to give themselves room. Shorter limbs give you more leverage for powerful moves. Check out that Dave McLeod book, 9 out of 10 climbers...

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

dex_sda posted:

Let it heal up. It might end up peeling off, if it does, you can speed up the initial stage of healing if you use an oitment like Solcoseryl. In case that's unavailable under that brand name, it's a protein-free hemodialysate of calves blood ointment and aside from that being loving metal, the speed at which it heals nasty chafes is nothing short of magical. I've had torn-off skin the size of half a penny heal up in two days of applying it. Like, right to the meat, and it was basically only missing the epidermis after two days. If you have such a deep skin injury and can find it, I recommend it.

I was JUST reading about this stuff and you're right, it sounds like straight wizard ointment. Now I just have to find some in Vancouver...

ante
Apr 9, 2005

SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS
Do tell if you find anything

dex_sda
Oct 11, 2012


Claes Oldenburger posted:

I was JUST reading about this stuff and you're right, it sounds like straight wizard ointment. Now I just have to find some in Vancouver...

Oh, it is. The info booklet even says it's indicated for all kinds of burns, including radiation burns, and I believe it.

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

dex_sda posted:

Oh, it is. The info booklet even says it's indicated for all kinds of burns, including radiation burns, and I believe it.

Yeah, I get a lot of small burns on my fingers from work often so I might try to find a tube just for that. Looks like it's only available in online pharmacies and they sketch me out :(

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Out at Satellites with spwrozek and nifty. Good times.

Nobody fell in the Death Hole.

Still was hoping they would send OG. :v:

Livestreaming goons bouldering.

modig
Aug 20, 2002

gamera009 posted:

Out at Satellites with spwrozek and nifty. Good times.

Nobody fell in the Death Hole.

Still was hoping they would send OG. :v:

Livestreaming goons bouldering.

Sounds sweet.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Did send major Tom though which was good.

A7-v1 though still alludes me....

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

We saw bear cubs.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

spwrozek posted:

Did send major Tom though which was good.

A7-v1 though still alludes me....

pull harder <3

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Bud Manstrong posted:

pull harder <3

I kept telling myself to stop sucking...

AncientTV
Jun 1, 2006

for sale custom bike over a billion invested

College Slice
edit: nevermind

AncientTV fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Sep 15, 2014

ConspicuousEvil
Feb 29, 2004
Pillbug
Anyone else start making Hueco reservations?

Tarnien
Jul 4, 2003
Champion of the World!!!
Gonna be in Colorado on Wednesday! Any recommendations (bouldering) for high-density areas around RMNP/Boulder? Not looking to project anything, just looking for a bunch of moderates to sample the areas for the GF and I. Short approaches would be a plus, but I've heard that's not really a thing though in Colorado, so we'll hike as necessary.

Also, anyone between Denver and Estes have some extra pads they'd be willing to loan out for 2 days (Wed-Fri)? The rentals in the area are like $15/day which is a bit much.

modig and gamera I sent you guys PM's as well.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Tarnien posted:

Gonna be in Colorado on Wednesday! Any recommendations (bouldering) for high-density areas around RMNP/Boulder? Not looking to project anything, just looking for a bunch of moderates to sample the areas for the GF and I. Short approaches would be a plus, but I've heard that's not really a thing though in Colorado, so we'll hike as necessary.

Also, anyone between Denver and Estes have some extra pads they'd be willing to loan out for 2 days (Wed-Fri)? The rentals in the area are like $15/day which is a bit much.

modig and gamera I sent you guys PM's as well.

Rentals are expensive for a reason. You're in climbing central. :haw:

Lower Chaos has a steep approach that is a bit long. Flagstaff has almost no approach but is sandbagged. Satellites has modest approach and reasonable density but is in Boulder, as is flagstaff. Evergreen/morrison may be an option, but that is BudManstrong's jam, not mine.

If you can come by Wednesday late afternoon, I can get you a pad. I teach all morning.

Squiggle
Sep 29, 2002

I don't think she likes the special sauce, Rick.


You can drive right up Flagstaff mountain from Boulder and park a couple hundred feet off of the rocks - just go during the day while most of the schmucks are at work.

Sadly I just sold my pad to trade out for camping gear, otherwise it'd be yours. :( But have fun!

edit: Oh hey, if you're ever at the Spot in Boulder, I'm there most MWFs ~6ish. Shorter bald guy with a beard (REALLY NARROWS IT DOWN HERE) and usually climbing with two tall, lanky dorks. Say hi!

Squiggle fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Sep 23, 2014

Tarnien
Jul 4, 2003
Champion of the World!!!
Sounds like we might make a stop in Flagstaff then! That way we can get some climbing in without having to lug pads for 2 hours in RMNP. Not worried about sandbagging, just trying to get a sample of the areas for potential future trips.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Tarnien posted:

Sounds like we might make a stop in Flagstaff then! That way we can get some climbing in without having to lug pads for 2 hours in RMNP. Not worried about sandbagging, just trying to get a sample of the areas for potential future trips.

Shoot me an email. Username at Google mail.

I can coordinate a time for you to grab my oldass pad. Bleached!

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Got to use my headlamp to clean and repel tonight. That was cool.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

spwrozek posted:

Got to use my headlamp to clean and repel tonight. That was cool.

I need a good headlamp. Anything that is bright as gently caress and is weatherized?

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

gamera009 posted:

I need a good headlamp. Anything that is bright as gently caress and is weatherized?

I actually need a new headlamp as well. The petzel one I have the band is so stretched out that it doesn't fit my head anymore (ok over my helmet though).

I would be open to suggestions as well. I like my current one since is has white and red light. Red is so nice in the middle of the night.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

spwrozek posted:

I actually need a new headlamp as well. The petzel one I have the band is so stretched out that it doesn't fit my head anymore (ok over my helmet though).

I would be open to suggestions as well. I like my current one since is has white and red light. Red is so nice in the middle of the night.

I'd like something that is incredibly bright as I'd take it night fishing as well. The red is less of a concern for me as long as I can direct the light to the ground.

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx
Heard real good things about the new bd ones. Borrowed a storm and the rechargeable one a couple times and liked em. I have their old micro light and its good for what it is.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
Get one of this year's updated Petzls or this year's updated BDs.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-
I've had a Myo RXP for a few years and it's great.

tynam
May 14, 2007
So I re-signed my yearly waiver at my climbing gym yesterday and thought it'd be interesting to post my progress through a full year.

I started off incredibly out of shape. The most exercise I'd do is cycling once a week or so. No weights or anything, so my upper body was weak as hell.

First trip to the climbing gym, climbed a 30' 5.8 and was completely pumped. Couldn't climb anything else that day. Climbing around twice a week.

First V2 and first 5.10a around 2 months in. I still remember the climbs.

Nonstop bouldering for a month, jumped from 5.9 to 5.10b/c. Climbing increased to three times a week.

Picked up lead cert at around 6 months in, led my first 5.10c a month later. Got stuck on overhangs, worked on it for a month, then sent a 10c/d back to back on an overhanging section.

Fast forward to now since everything between is becoming hazy. Climbing roughly 5 days a week, mixed between roped and bouldering. For bouldering I'm flashing V3, working V4s, projecting V5's. For roped I'm toproping 5.11c, leading 11a.

Just wanted to say thanks for the tips and advice from this thread. Hopefully this time next year I'll be crushing V6 and sending 12's on lead.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Have you been climbing outside or just in the gym? That is some solid work but gym climbing is so boring.

tynam
May 14, 2007
Planning on going outdoors starting next month. Been outdoor bouldering just once - it was fun but we couldn't do much due to the difficulty. Should be better now that my group is a bit more experienced.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

BD Icon lamp looks awesome.

Anyone know anything about the waterproof rating? I'm curious if it's actually waterproof, or if it's just water resistant. Reviews have been mixed.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
What do you need it for? It's not a diving light, but it will be proof to anything reasonable; I think BD rates it to 3 meters depth.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Speleothing posted:

What do you need it for? It's not a diving light, but it will be proof to anything reasonable; I think BD rates it to 3 meters depth.

I'd also like to take it camping for evening fishing and tooling around camp.

Also in case I need light while climbing. :haw:

lime rind
Jul 10, 2014
Now that I've been climbing several times, I can tell I want to keep doing it. It's time to buy some equipment, but I have a couple questions.

I'm stuck between two shoes. I'd like the La Sportiva Tarantulas, but my local store only has Tarantulaces. Both are made from leather and are at a price point I like, but the Tarantulas have Velcro straps. That seems convenient for the gym. However, I'm leaning to the Tarantulaces because buying from the store will provide me with an extra discount. Should I ignore the strap/lace decision and go for the discount?

I'm thinking of getting a pair of those glasses some people use for belaying. My neck was getting pretty tired after belaying someone stuck high up on a problem. Is there anything I should try (common mistakes to avoid?) before going that route?

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Squiggle
Sep 29, 2002

I don't think she likes the special sauce, Rick.


I prefer straps if they're an option - especially if they are aggressive as gently caress and too uncomfortable to just...wear while I'm off the rocks. Having to untie/retie the laces over and over sucks, but I'm mainly bouldering so you've probably got more downtime with trad/sport climbing.

edit: I would pay...mmmm $15 extra to get the strap version if it existed, but I am a spendthrift

Squiggle fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Sep 30, 2014

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