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sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

kastein posted:

Start soaking it in ATF yet? :haw:

I soaked it in ATF and acetone mix for almost a month. No budging.
It's the same model as talked about here: http://cutterod.com/

2 years of work, and broken hydraulic jacks... I'm not sure mine is worth the effort.

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iForge
Oct 28, 2010

Apple's new "iBlacksmith Suite: Professional Edition" features the iForge, iAnvil, and the iHammer.

sharkytm posted:

I wish mine was that nice...

Mine wasn't when I got it in 2009. Dug these pics off an old hard drive just for you! I had to chisel and pry the jaws open enough to get a scissor jack in there to open it up. I wire wheeled it and soaked poo poo in gasoline to remove the petrified grease. I had to make a new washer for the front to lock the screw to the sliding jaw, as the screws were broken off and it was missing. Its missing the pivot base but I don't care, it is the best vise I've ever owned, and I only paid like 10 bux at the scrap yard for it.



EKDS5k
Feb 22, 2012

THIS IS WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU LET YOUR BEER FREEZE, DAMNIT
Everyone keeps posting about ratcheting/hydraulic crimpers and how great/important it is to have a good set. But I've never used or seen anyone use anything but these kinds of things for crimping connectors. What's the difference?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

EKDS5k posted:

Everyone keeps posting about ratcheting/hydraulic crimpers and how great/important it is to have a good set. But I've never used or seen anyone use anything but these kinds of things for crimping connectors. What's the difference?

This difference is that those provide absolutely no consistency at all even with the best of operators and make for a poo poo crimp for anyone who isn't very very good at this, as opposed to proper crimpers that a monkey can be trained to operate at 100% efficiency in less than 30 seconds.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

EKDS5k posted:

Everyone keeps posting about ratcheting/hydraulic crimpers and how great/important it is to have a good set. But I've never used or seen anyone use anything but these kinds of things for crimping connectors. What's the difference?

How quaint, a set of snapon mashem-smashem terminal masticators!

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

EKDS5k posted:

Everyone keeps posting about ratcheting/hydraulic crimpers and how great/important it is to have a good set. But I've never used or seen anyone use anything but these kinds of things for crimping connectors. What's the difference?

Theyre a step up from the $1 stamped crimping pliers but probably a step down from the $20 Chinese ratcheting crimpers posted earlier.

Possibly more important though is using UL or Milspec listed wire and terminals. Make sure it clearly states on the package that both are UL listed and that you purchase them from a reputable source.

CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Sep 29, 2014

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sd2PNHysj7A

Maybe a most of you knew this already, but I found this to be enjoyable to watch and worthy of the thread.

Elmnt80
Dec 30, 2012


kastein posted:

Dude, WTF, please never do electrical work on any car I am going to buy :argh:

Also: doing that with 120v stuff around the house is asking for an electrocution or fire when it falls apart somehow, so hopefully it isn't line powered stuff.

I had to redo all the ends for the power wires in my boat with pliers and parts dug up from the local auto parts store after forgetting to pull the drain plugs and leaving it sit for 2-3 months in the rainy season in Florida. None of it is intended to deal with the poo poo tons of salt that is everywhere after 25 years of being in the ocean very frequently and the battery that all these wires are connected to sits in a compartment that is coated with a thick film of old oils, grease and gas. Wanna buy a boat? :v:

spookykid
Apr 28, 2006

EKDS5k posted:

Everyone keeps posting about ratcheting/hydraulic crimpers and how great/important it is to have a good set. But I've never used or seen anyone use anything but these kinds of things for crimping connectors. What's the difference?

The difference between "Crimp... Tug Tug Whew. Crimp... Tug Tug gently caress. Crimp... Tug Tug gently caress!" and getting satisfaction every time.

the wizards beard
Apr 15, 2007
Reppin

4 LIFE 4 REAL

Dannywilson posted:

The difference between "Crimp... Tug Tug Whew. Crimp... Tug Tug gently caress. Crimp... Tug Tug gently caress!" and getting satisfaction every time.

In my experience a good pliers-style crimper is superior if you need to use many different crimping pins requiring different jaw sizes and crimping forces (i.e. for electronics work). When you want to repeat the same couple of jobs over and over then an appropriate ratchet wins.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!
Can anyone opine on Homak tool storage? Northern Tool has some Homak boxes (Pro Series and H2Pro) that are a little more expensive than the Harbor Freight standard, but they seem a bit nicer too.

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

womp womp womp womp

Splizwarf posted:

Can anyone opine on Homak tool storage? Northern Tool has some Homak boxes (Pro Series and H2Pro) that are a little more expensive than the Harbor Freight standard, but they seem a bit nicer too.

My Homak chest from Costco is still going strong a couple years later, ball bearing slides, drawer liners, gas struts on the lid and decent gauge metal. Only issue is that the drawers don't lock that well but for the price I can't complain.

Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Sep 29, 2014

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

the wizards beard posted:

In my experience a good pliers-style crimper is superior if you need to use many different crimping pins requiring different jaw sizes and crimping forces (i.e. for electronics work). When you want to repeat the same couple of jobs over and over then an appropriate ratchet wins.

This is a fair point if you have pliers that will do contacts you want but I think almost everyone in this thread is crimping RBY terminals between 10 and 20 gauge.

EDIT: Fun story about Daniels that I remember. When a space shuttle or major rocket would launch from Cape Canaveral, the whole office would go stand outside and watch it, beaming with pride that our safe-t-cable and crimp tools were used throughout that thing. Good times.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
I didn't even know there was a better kind of crimper until this week and drat do I want one.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

StormDrain posted:

I didn't even know there was a better kind of crimper until this week and drat do I want one.

http://www.harborfreight.com/ratcheting-crimping-tool-97420.html

OR

http://www.amazon.com/Titan-11477-Ratcheting-Terminal-Crimper/dp/B0069TRKJ0

OR if you want a baller rear end tool: https://www.dmctools.com/store/cata...26x%3D0%26y%3D0

CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Sep 30, 2014

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!
Does anyone make an affordable one where there's another way to open it besides closing it all the way? Sometimes I want to stop and re-position and it's too late. :(

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Splizwarf posted:

Does anyone make an affordable one where there's another way to open it besides closing it all the way? Sometimes I want to stop and re-position and it's too late. :(

Most have a little lever you can press with a screwdriver that'll reset the pawl.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





My HF one has a small release tab. It takes some effort but it can be released by hand alone.

EKDS5k
Feb 22, 2012

THIS IS WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU LET YOUR BEER FREEZE, DAMNIT
Okay so it turns out my coworker has one of the ratcheting crimpers in his box that he doesn't use for some reason. I borrowed it today and holy god drat how did I live without this?

Is SnapOn worth the extra cost on these? I don't mind shelling out for a better tool, but if the cheapo ones do the same job just as easily then I'd rather save the money.

Tamir Lenk
Nov 25, 2009

CarForumPoster posted:

This is a fair point if you have pliers that will do contacts you want but I think almost everyone in this thread is crimping RBY terminals between 10 and 20 gauge.

EDIT: Fun story about Daniels that I remember. When a space shuttle or major rocket would launch from Cape Canaveral, the whole office would go stand outside and watch it, beaming with pride that our safe-t-cable and crimp tools were used throughout that thing. Good times.

I have a great set of plier crimpers with different slots for insulated and non-insulated terminals. I never use RBY line-connectors.



For terminal ends, I usually ditch the RBY plastic insulation, crimp the metal terminal, and then solder/heat-shrink the connection.

Brain Issues
Dec 16, 2004

lol

I have those titan ones and they suck. They don't crimp 22awg tight enough, wires pull right out of the connector.

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
I have the HF ones and I've never gotten a successful crimp out of them, even after adjusting them to the max setting they're still too loose.

EDIT: I dug out the crimpers and messed with them for a bit and was able to get a couple decent crimps out of them. Must be user error.

revmoo fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Sep 30, 2014

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.
How do you adjust the HF crimpers? They worked fine for me, but my friend borrowed them and kept having wires pull out. Though I think part of it is him using too large connectors.

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
Unscrew lock screw, move slotted round thinggy towards the +, screw lock screw back in.

Pomp and Circumcized
Dec 23, 2006

If there's one thing I love more than GruntKilla420, it's the Queen! Also bacon.

Why twist first?! I always tin the wires then overlap and apply heat. Having the wires twisted together isn't going to help and is only going to prevent solder from getting in between the two ends.

FatCow
Apr 22, 2002
I MAP THE FUCK OUT OF PEOPLE
Either way, for an automotive application crimped connectors are the right tool for the job.

spookykid
Apr 28, 2006

Brain Issues posted:

I have those titan ones and they suck. They don't crimp 22awg tight enough, wires pull right out of the connector.

Weird, I have the titan ones, and they will do 22awg with red splices all day, it's how I did my cab marker lights install. I haven't looked to see if there is an adjustment or anything on them though.

briefcasefullof
Sep 25, 2004
[This Space for Rent]
Got some free Kobalt vise grips today. A student found them in the bathroom and brought them to me. None of the staff/custodians know whose they are, so I'm keeping them :v:

Galler
Jan 28, 2008


ShittyPostmakerPro posted:

Why twist first?! I always tin the wires then overlap and apply heat. Having the wires twisted together isn't going to help and is only going to prevent solder from getting in between the two ends.

Not sure of the diagram's suggestion but it looks like a crude Western Union splice. That splice is for solid core wire and the twists are for mechanical strength with the solder assisting in the connection. It's NASA approved/required.

http://makezine.com/2012/02/28/how-to-splice-wire-to-nasa-standards/

Turbo Fondant
Oct 25, 2010

I use these for crimping:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=hand&item_ID=648778&group_ID=742282
They don't do reds very well, but just about everything I do is 14ga anyway. And they're a lot more manoeuvrable than a ratchet crimper.

If you're soldering an inline splice and you're not twisting a Western Union you're doing it wrong :colbert:

Tamir Lenk
Nov 25, 2009

ShittyPostmakerPro posted:

Why twist first?! I always tin the wires then overlap and apply heat. Having the wires twisted together isn't going to help and is only going to prevent solder from getting in between the two ends.

The twist provides the mechanical strength you need, the solder helps the current flow.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
I take RBY ferrule sizing with a grain of salt, if it seems like there's too much space, I double the wire over or use the next size down. Reds are always annoying though.

This may or may not anger other wiring nerds in the thread. Hasn't failed a pull test or given me intermittent wiring headaches yet, however.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

revmoo posted:

I have the HF ones and I've never gotten a successful crimp out of them, even after adjusting them to the max setting they're still too loose.

EDIT: I dug out the crimpers and messed with them for a bit and was able to get a couple decent crimps out of them. Must be user error.

If Ive said ti once Ive said it a million times. UL listed/MILSPEC connectors and wire ONLY. I'd bet it isn't the crimpers because the china quality tolerances required to be functional can be made with MIM parts right out of the die.

This is exactly why, and good experience I'd bet as a result of that issue:

kastein posted:

I take RBY ferrule sizing with a grain of salt, if it seems like there's too much space, I double the wire over or use the next size down. Reds are always annoying though.

This may or may not anger other wiring nerds in the thread. Hasn't failed a pull test or given me intermittent wiring headaches yet, however.

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



My local halfords has a big stack of Gunson Colortune's in their sales bin for £1 each. However they are the 10mm one and I can't think of anything I have ever worked on that uses 10mm sparkplugs. Tempted to go back today and buy them just because £1 each..

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr




I already have one of those for insulated crimps, but I would also love a ratcheting crimper for the non insulated terminals like these:



Can you get them? My manual one is a bit of a pain as you have to use 2 different parts to do the 2 sections of the connector

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Tomarse posted:

My local halfords has a big stack of Gunson Colortune's in their sales bin for £1 each. However they are the 10mm one and I can't think of anything I have ever worked on that uses 10mm sparkplugs. Tempted to go back today and buy them just because £1 each..

They've got to be worth flogging, I'd get them.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!
Surely there's an adapter available/makeable as well. I'd buy 'em.

meltie
Nov 9, 2003

Not a sodding fridge.

Tomarse posted:

My local halfords has a big stack of Gunson Colortune's in their sales bin for £1 each. However they are the 10mm one and I can't think of anything I have ever worked on that uses 10mm sparkplugs. Tempted to go back today and buy them just because £1 each..

I popped into the Didcot one this evening but they had none. Must be a local thing. Ah well; I need one for a Rover V8 and that's not 10mm!

meltie fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Oct 2, 2014

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
You can get all the spare adaptors for them. I'd buy the lot at that kind of money.

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Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



I'm gonna pop in on my way to work tomorrow morning. Everything I own is 14mm I think.

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