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Sadi posted:Thought I would share the pics of my horrible mechanical failure. So that's why brother was warning me about drifting.... How did you get the car home?
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Sep 30, 2014 18:42
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The Door Frame posted:So that's why brother was warning me about drifting.... How did you get the car home? Flat bed. Fortunately my gf has AAA and was with me. She gets free towing for 100 miles and I was only 80 miles from home. Fabed up a little plate to drill into the LCA and hold it together for its next tow truck ride to a friends shop where the subframe is coming out.
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Sep 30, 2014 19:14
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Kids these days are paying a lot of money for sick camber like that. You should roll it with pride (if you still can with no LCA).
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Oct 1, 2014 02:01
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Make sure you get good arms, a lot of the aftermarket stuff I see is questionable and might not be as durable as OEM. I'd give a shop like platteform ag a call.
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Oct 1, 2014 08:09
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:If the timing belt isn't fitted and tensioned, then some valves will be open, giving a 0 reading. yeah, I assumed people would realise you do this after you've fitted a new belt/tensioner. not much point doing it with no belt or no tension in the belt.
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Oct 1, 2014 14:11
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Does anyone have the picture of the bolt formed into a brake pad's material? I remember it was posted here many moons ago but I can't find it now. 
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Oct 1, 2014 15:29
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spiny posted:yeah, I assumed people would realise you do this after you've fitted a new belt/tensioner. not much point doing it with no belt or no tension in the belt. The whole reason for checking the compression is to work out if the engine is worth the throwing money at. Putting a new belt and tensioner on a probably-dead engine makes it somewhat pointless.
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Oct 1, 2014 21:15
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spiny posted:yeah, I assumed people would realise you do this after you've fitted a new belt/tensioner. not much point doing it with no belt or no tension in the belt. Not to mention turning the engine over with the starter without having the timing belt 100% is going to bend more valves. Maybe I missed something in the conversation but turning over any interference engine without the valve timing gear intact is going to cause more damage. e: by "gear" I mean the valve timing system. Im bad with words shy boy from chess club fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Oct 2, 2014 |
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Oct 2, 2014 00:34
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The gearbox in my friends VW splitty decided to eat itself on a steep hill: Splitcase gearbox failure by zombikombi1959, on Flickr
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Oct 2, 2014 11:34
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:The whole reason for checking the compression is to work out if the engine is worth the throwing money at. Putting a new belt and tensioner on a probably-dead engine makes it somewhat pointless. That depends on how much the engine costs to replace surely?
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Oct 2, 2014 13:20
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Yeah it may be stupid but I'd rather spend $300, line up everything and reset any errors and maybe magically have it work, before spending countless hours removing and refurbishing the heads, valves, pistons, etc or buy an engine for $1000-$1800. I just need someone with VAG-COM to reset the crank position sensor error 'cause the plugs won't spark, and if it doesn't start then I have to take the long and much more expensive road. I don't care if I gently caress it up more by cranking it since if it's dead, it's dead and I need a new engine anyway.
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Oct 2, 2014 13:58
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JazzmasterCurious posted:Yeah it may be stupid but I'd rather spend $300, line up everything and reset any errors and maybe magically have it work, before spending countless hours removing and refurbishing the heads, valves, pistons, etc or buy an engine for $1000-$1800. I suppose that makes sense if you skip what has already been posted: leak down and compression test. Which would be a stupid thing to skip when you're talking about $300 worth of parts to even see if you have the slightest chance of it working.
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Oct 2, 2014 16:38
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Hell, even if you have to go the junkyard engine route, chances are you'll want to replace the timing belt on it before you install it ayways. So, it's not like the parts will go to waste.
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Oct 2, 2014 18:32
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Just turn the engine upside down and shake it and see how many valve fragments come out of the spark plug holes.
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Oct 2, 2014 21:56
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A girl at work needed a new engine for her Fiesta (basic model, a few years old). Something had got caught in the accessory belt, managed to drive itself or something else into the cambelt, and caused it to skip a few teeth, with the expected consequences. It cost Ł4,100.  Don't you hate that feeling when you know someone probably got done over, and you can't really do anything but smile politely and walk off? Because it's done now, and it wouldn't help to say anything, but you kind of wish they'd spoken to you or someone else to sound out about it?
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Oct 2, 2014 22:08
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Sounds like something collided with the accessory belt to me. That's a collision. Insurance please get on it.
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Oct 2, 2014 22:12
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InitialDave posted:A girl at work needed a new engine for her Fiesta (basic model, a few years old). Something had got caught in the accessory belt, managed to drive itself or something else into the cambelt, and caused it to skip a few teeth, with the expected consequences. I have some friends who spent nearly $3,000 on a transmission rebuild for a clapped out late 90s Escort a few years back. Despite my well informed opinion of "your car worth $800 has a hosed transmission, you'd be better off all around just buying another beat rear end car", they took it to a transmission shop who wrung them for every penny they could. The rebuilt tranny ended up making GBS threads the bed shortly after the warranty on the work expired and they finally decided to get another beater. That much money gets you a pretty sweet rear end car around these parts, but since they were broke after that ordeal they ended up with a real turd of a free Galant that had its own host of issues.
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Oct 3, 2014 00:31
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Im in the middle of a 4500 dollar transmission swap on a beat to hell 99 taurus thatthe owner has emotional attachment to 
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Oct 3, 2014 01:34
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Stockholm'd
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Oct 3, 2014 01:36
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InitialDave posted:Don't you hate that feeling when you know someone probably got done over, and you can't really do anything but smile politely and walk off? Because it's done now, and it wouldn't help to say anything, but you kind of wish they'd spoken to you or someone else to sound out about it? Coworker bought a stick '07 Versa from the place we work about two months ago. Today: "Yo. Do you know why my clutch pedal is sticking down to the floor? Any ideas of what can cause that? It doesn't come up sometimes to the point where I have to pull it back and it's coming up slower then normal too." Dude makes barely enough money for the payments on it and he talked himself into the cost because he needed something that wasn't an unsafe money pit.  When I have my PC handy, I'll post pics of things that he's driven into work. It's incredible that he and his family continue to be alive and four-limbed.
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Oct 3, 2014 01:59
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My dad had 2 engines and one auto trans replaced on his 1st gen forester when it was over 8 years old. I'm 99.9% sure he killed them by never checking the oil. To this day he still claims it was a lemon, but I know his inability to even remember to take cars in for service.
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Oct 3, 2014 02:18
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Crustashio posted:My dad had 2 engines and one auto trans replaced on his 1st gen forester when it was over 8 years old. I'm 99.9% sure he killed them by never checking the oil. To this day he still claims it was a lemon, but I know his inability to even remember to take cars in for service. My coworker who used to be a tranny tech at a Ford dealer always tells this story: "Your Explorer needs a transmission." -"What a piece of crap! I knew this thing would be trouble! My Honda (SUV of some flavor) is much more reliable, I service that thing all the time blah blah blah, it's perfect. I'm glad I never wasted my money and never serviced this piece of poo poo Explorer!" "Ummm. What?"
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Oct 3, 2014 02:28
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OFFICER 13 INCH posted:Im in the middle of a 4500 dollar transmission swap on a beat to hell 99 taurus thatthe owner has emotional attachment to $4500 transmission swap? I had a ford taurus that was owned by my grandfathers on both sides of the family. I had enough emotional attachment to find some sucker that was willing to give me $500 for it when it was down to 5 cylinders.
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Oct 3, 2014 02:35
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I've always been of the opinion that American cars, even of the malaise era, are far more reliable than they are ever given credit for. Most of them make it to 100k and beyond with zero maintenance and heaps of abuse while the 'reliable brands' are generally brought in by their considerate owners every 30k for a few hundred dollars of PM. That's not to say that a lot of them aren't dismal rattle traps right off the line, just that they deserve credit for soldering on as dismal rattle traps with high mileage, no oil and coolant that could be used for an acidic floor cleaner.
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Oct 3, 2014 02:36
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^I think a lot of the lovely reputation is because of how awful the interiors and overall fit and finish were. The Japanese cars of the era weren't much better, honestly, but they weren't trying to pretend everything was great and charge you extra for the pleasure of driving that greatness.1500quidporsche posted:$4500 transmission swap? That's what they were costing for newly-out-of-warranty Tauruses in the 90s when I had to do it.
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Oct 3, 2014 02:38
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Godholio posted:That's what they were costing for newly-out-of-warranty Tauruses in the 90s when I had to do it. Are we talking rebuilding or just swapping in something ripped out of the junkyard and slapping it in? For a 99 Taurus today I'm assuming the latter.
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Oct 3, 2014 02:40
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OFFICER 13 INCH posted:Im in the middle of a 4500 dollar transmission swap on a beat to hell 99 taurus thatthe owner has emotional attachment to i'm half expecting my dad to do this (replacing his engine with I think a broken timing belt) on his volvo 960 once I conclusively determine that the valves and pistons are mulch the nivomats are shot and the heater core is disconnected because it was filling everything with coolant vapor, but he says it's the best car he's ever driven. if I had money I'd buy him a late model V90. 
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Oct 3, 2014 02:56
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1500quidporsche posted:Are we talking rebuilding or just swapping in something ripped out of the junkyard and slapping it in? I don't think a shop would willingly install a piece of poo poo unknown transmission in a customer's car. Also, for $4500 it better drat be a rebuilt transmission.
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Oct 3, 2014 02:59
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Raluek posted:I don't think a shop would willingly install a piece of poo poo unknown transmission in a customer's car. Also, for $4500 it better drat be a rebuilt transmission. you haven't worked in a junkyard then. Tons of mechanics will do that so long as its not a dealership.
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Oct 3, 2014 03:05
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1500quidporsche posted:Are we talking rebuilding or just swapping in something ripped out of the junkyard and slapping it in? Back in the 90s, that was swapping an off-the-shelf rebuilt transmission (and everybody had an AXODE/AX4N/AX4S on the shelf). Now, I have no idea. I wouldn't dump that kind of money into the ugliest car Ford's made in the last 30 years, though.
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Oct 3, 2014 03:15
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Only some mechanical knowledge here, but what can you do to make sure the transmission you pull from the yard isn't total junk? Or do you have to go through the trouble of pulling and installing in order to find out?
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Oct 3, 2014 04:16
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1500quidporsche posted:you haven't worked in a junkyard then. Tons of mechanics will do that so long as its not a dealership. When I worked for a salvage yard we sold probably 85% of our transmissions and engines to dealers and collision shops. Almost none to Harry Homeowner though, because the warranty (yeah, there was actually a decent one attached) required the work to be done and documented in a licensed shop and required the installing mechanic to have the relevant ASE certification, engine or trans. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Oct 3, 2014 |
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Oct 3, 2014 04:28
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QuarkMartial posted:Only some mechanical knowledge here, but what can you do to make sure the transmission you pull from the yard isn't total junk? Or do you have to go through the trouble of pulling and installing in order to find out? Not to sure about an automatic but with a manual you can shift through gears and rotate the output flange to get a general idea if any gears are missing. A couple of good indicators though is the mileage on the car and the general appearance of the engine bay to tell if its going to be worth your time (if its got 400k on it and oil has coated everything from the valve cover gasket downwards probably not worth your time) The real answer is do you want to spend $4500 or are you feeling lucky. That's not to say you can't gently caress up, and I've seen plenty of people gently caress up. Best one was a guy who must've spent 4 hours pulling a transmission for some 90s GMC truck and while waiting in line to purchase it got into a casual conversation with a real old school GM guy we had on staff. As the model of truck he had came up (and the GM guy had obviously at some point had owned one) it was politely pointed out that the transmission wasn't going to work on his truck.
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Oct 3, 2014 04:32
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Not a transmission but it reminds me of one time I went to the junkyard. These guys from a rotary shop were pulling one and just stuck their fingers in the ports and turned it to see if it had good compression or something like that. I was kind of surprised of such a basic test. They drove a decent distance too, from Reno, NV to Sacramento, CA (~130 miles).
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Oct 3, 2014 04:39
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I've seen people list a transmission for sale from a vehicle without saying anything about it other than model and year, which narrows things down to approximately 12 different options… 2wd, 4wd, auto, manual, did it come from a 4cyl, 6cyl, or diesel? The only sadder thing than that was that they had a handful of willing buyers lined up who had no idea what was being sold and also didn't say what they wanted to put it in. People are just plain loving stupid. Another guy bought a transmission that electrically would have worked, but had a 23 spline output shaft instead of a 21 spline so his transfer case wouldn't fit. Why the hell don't people check this poo poo before they end up elbows deep in it and have a few hundred into buying parts? QuarkMartial posted:Only some mechanical knowledge here, but what can you do to make sure the transmission you pull from the yard isn't total junk? Or do you have to go through the trouble of pulling and installing in order to find out? drop the pan on an auto and make sure it isn't full of sludge with a magnet looking like a chia pet. pull the drain plug on a manual and make sure the magnet doesn't look like a chia pet, plus shift it through the gears and get a feel for how hosed it is. If you know how the thing is put together inside, split the case in the yard and inspect what you're getting, then slap it back together to buy it, bring it home and toss a grand total of half a tube of RTV on it. Worth it, in my opinion. Rebuild kits are usually under 300 bucks and the yards I go to now have a free 30 day warranty and know that I'm not an idiot, so I chance buying them and then find out when I get home. I've saved a number of people from buying the wrong transmission before, and also had a number of people tell me to mind my own loving business and that they knew what they were talking about and that it would fit. So I smiled, held my tongue, and imagined how annoyed they'd be when they discovered that no, the 97 XJ 6cyl auto trans they pulled definitely wouldn't work with their 98 ZJ, never, ever, at all. 
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Oct 3, 2014 04:47
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CharlesM posted:Not a transmission but it reminds me of one time I went to the junkyard. These guys from a rotary shop were pulling one and just stuck their fingers in the ports and turned it to see if it had good compression or something like that. I was kind of surprised of such a basic test. They drove a decent distance too, from Reno, NV to Sacramento, CA (~130 miles). It's not a definitive test, but it'll tell you if the engine is completely blown out or not.
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Oct 3, 2014 06:59
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CharlesM posted:Not a transmission but it reminds me of one time I went to the junkyard. These guys from a rotary shop were pulling one and just stuck their fingers in the ports and turned it to see if it had good compression or something like that. I was kind of surprised of such a basic test. They drove a decent distance too, from Reno, NV to Sacramento, CA (~130 miles). On old motorcycles you can get in the ballpark by sticking your thumb on the spark plug hole and kicking the kickstarter. If it blows your finger off with a loud POP then the compression is good enough to start and run, anyway. If it just farts or hisses, or if you can't feel it pushing at all, move on. e: this also works with lawnmowers, chainsaws, etc
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Oct 3, 2014 07:28
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Splizwarf posted:When I worked for a salvage yard we sold probably 85% of our transmissions and engines to dealers and collision shops. Almost none to Harry Homeowner though, because the warranty (yeah, there was actually a decent one attached) required the work to be done and documented in a licensed shop and required the installing mechanic to have the relevant ASE certification, engine or trans. I had a salvage yard install a used transaxle for me a few years ago. It wound up having a bad axle seal, and I'd specifically asked him to replace the axle seals before it went in (and he'd charged me for them). Owner of the yard had given me a 30 day warranty (in writing, with a stipulation that either his place had to install it or an ASE certified shop had to install it), and tried to say the warranty was parts only, not labor, and I'd have to pay $100 "so I can pay my mechanic". The receipt said parts and labor warranty, and he'd personally installed it.  He also told me it was out of one car that he just parted out, when the VIN tag on it came back as a different year, with history showing it was a total loss from flood damage a couple of years prior. That actually worked in my favor to a degree, it actually came from a car 2 years newer that had a significantly shorter final drive. Added a good bit of power off the line. The only reason I had him install it is he beat my regular mechanic's price by a few hundred bucks. Regular mechanic did mention he'd bought stuff from that yard before and been burned nearly every time, probably should have listened. 1500quidporsche posted:Not to sure about an automatic but with a manual you can shift through gears and rotate the output flange to get a general idea if any gears are missing. A couple of good indicators though is the mileage on the car and the general appearance of the engine bay to tell if its going to be worth your time (if its got 400k on it and oil has coated everything from the valve cover gasket downwards probably not worth your time) ... or you buy a transmission from a car specific forum, it arrives, everything turns and shifts smoothly by hand, and it still winds up having bad bearings, and fluid that is more metal shavings than liquid when you drain it 50 miles later. Then when you bitch they tell you it's been sitting outside for 8 years but it was "under a tarp" and they don't understand why all the bearings are completely hosed after sitting outdoors for 8 years with no fluids. Still irritated about that. Still out the labor it took to install it, though at least I got my money back for the trans and part of the shipping. Then I got to deal with above mentioned junkyard. I think I have a lot of pent up rage about a few things.. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:53 on Oct 3, 2014 |
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Oct 3, 2014 08:02
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kastein posted:
I'm currently dealing with a hillbilly now on craigslist. Hes like WILL DIS FIT MAH RIGHT. I write back. The part is from XYZ model. IT IS NOT MY RESPONSIBILITY TO DETERMINE IF IT WILL WORK IN YOUR APPLICATION. IF YOU PURCHASE THE PART IT IS NOT MY PROBLEM IF IT DOESNT WORK. Please show up with cash if you would like to purchase the part. I do not do dibs and this isn't a charity. I don't give a gently caress about your sob story.
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Oct 3, 2014 14:02
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Slow is Fast posted:I'm currently dealing with a hillbilly now on craigslist. Hes like WILL DIS FIT MAH RIGHT. It's much easier to just avoid the headache by saying no, even if it might be the right part.
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Oct 3, 2014 16:26
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