|
Croos posting my Ork Kannons:  
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2014 13:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 16, 2024 17:29 |
|
|
Ok, time for some "truescale" sperging... I've gotten dragged back into 40K by this thread and the 40K novels, and I've been thinking about how to make marines slightly more as they are in the books, and also do it in a way that's feasible if I want to do a small army of them. So the basic idea here is that power armour is represented by a more open type of armour, with fabric pants and shirts showing, while in game terminator armour comes closer to standard power armour as described in the books. To be able to make more of these, I looked wanted to test greenstuff casting/press moulding, like here: http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/ I made a rough torso substitute from greenstuff, and a cast using liquid blustuff, and there whole thing worked perfectly fine. Even with a shoddy modelling job on the torso, the copmpleted model looks quite good I think, he's about a a head taller than a standard marine:  Evil-craft legs and gun, Forgeworld head and Puppetswar shoulderpad. For smaller items I tried non-liquid blustuff: http://blu-stuff.com/ but I find that brittle and prone to breakage. I ended up using instant mold instead: https://www.coolminiornot.com/shop/instant-mold.html - much more flexible, and it can be recykled if you mess up. I use this for small things like magazine pouches, emblems and whatnot. Another angle:  Shoulder emblem detail:  Next up is trying to use the mold to cast resin instead, and get a little squad assembled using the greenstuff torsoes 
Dr Hemulen fucked around with this message at 13:44 on Oct 13, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2014 13:34
|
|
|
Oh, thanks for the kind words about my orcs folks! Chuffed people think they look good. I'm surprised to get some nice feedback on my photos too, as I'd almost asked if anyone had any tips myself. Ages (like, years) ago someone gave advice for photographing miniatures and I wish I could remember what they had said properly. It was stuff like 'put the camera far away and zoom in loads' or maybe the opposite 'put the camera close and zoom out loads'. Not sure. Anyway, it's maybe worth posting what I do as it might be helpful to others. I'm no photographer, and I'm not doing anything particularly difficult, so this'll be a bit of a 'for dummies' explanation. -  I'm lucky that I work on a shiny white desk in a room with white walls and a good amount of natural light. I just move stuff out of the corner and plonk my guy down. My camera (a 700D with kit lens - nothing outrageous) ends up about 12" - 15" away on some CDs. This setup, while simple, is good for getting a solid photo - indirect, natural light + a very still camera with no flash. All the white surfaces spread the light evenly so no weird shadows get in the way. I focus on the mini's face and zoom in most of the way. I'll fiddle with the shutter / aperture until it looks ok and will take a shot or two with the timer (so the camera doesn't shake). I don't over-fiddle the settings (sometimes I leave it on auto), but I do make sure the depth of field is wide enough to get the whole mini is in focus rather than just his nose or something. The photo comes out like this:  (0.8sec at f / 14 for the curious) Once on my computer, I'll drop the file into Lightroom and crop it fairly close (though not so close you can see every imperfection and brush stroke). Then it's time to play with all the buttons:  Again, nothing complicated - I lighten things up with the Exposure slider, boost the Saturation and knock down the Whites (because of the white wall). I also roughly mask off the mini and give him a bit of a brighten separately from the background. Any wee bits of dust get painted out with the Spot Removal tool. The Sharpness gets cranked pretty high with a bit of noise reduction so it's not so grainy. 5-10 mins total. Here's the settings I used for the image as a whole and for the masked off mini. These change photo-to-photo as I kinda eyeball it, but if you've never played with photo editing before, these are some of the sliders to look for as a starting point.   Resize and save in Photoshop (maybe giving it a final wee brightness boost and sharpen there) and I'm done! This dude is maybe a bit overcooked for the sake of this demo, but you get the idea:  These, or similar, adjustments can be done in any image editing software - Lightroom, iPhoto, GIMP, Photoshop, VSCO Cam, Snapseed etc. without much trouble and can make a big difference, even if you don't have a fancy camera. For example: I took a photo of the same miniature, in the same spot, with my pretty-good-but-not-great iPhone 5:  Which came out like this:  And with a bit of editing:  The post production doesn't help as much if you've taken a harsh photo, and it can be pretty unflattering to rough paint jobs, but a wee bit of effort definitely goes a long way.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2014 14:59
|
|
|
Awesome little tutorial. If your camera supports it, shoot in RAW, that'll give you a better chance to get good colours. Dr Hemulen fucked around with this message at 15:27 on Oct 13, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2014 15:25
|
|
|
So I'm using this lava base, but want to make the lava flow into a frozen creek sort of thing with water effects. Anyone have any links to tutorials, or suggestions about how to make it look properly frozen and icy?
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2014 16:42
|
|
|
Does anyone know where one could get a big blue-white gradient sheet of paper? All the old 'Eavy Metal photography had their models against one: I'm figuring about 18x24.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2014 21:30
|
|
|
A professional camera shop like B&H or Glazer's carry all sorts of backdrops, but a brief scan through those two tells me that your blue-white gradient is a bit too retro for currently stocked stuff. Maybe try talking to a print shop, that doesn't seem like something that would end up being super-expensive.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2014 21:41
|
|
|
Make a file in Photoshop using the gradient tool, print it at Kinkos.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2014 21:43
|
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:Make a file in Photoshop using the gradient tool, print it at Kinkos. This is what I was going to suggest. Also may I just say I loving love SRM's dedication to old-school style? This backdrop thing is really taking it to a new, awesome level.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2014 21:47
|
|
|
Fyrbrand posted:Also may I just say I loving love SRM's dedication to old-school style? This backdrop thing is really taking it to a new, awesome level. Yeah I can't wait to see the results from this. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2014 21:51
|
|
|
If you're feeling lazy, these guys do loads of pretty big backgrounds: http://www.hangar18miniatures.com/photo-backdrops/size-a2/shades-of-blue-16-x-23-inch-a2/
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2014 22:05
|
|
|
Tenterhooks posted:If you're feeling lazy, these guys do loads of pretty big backgrounds: http://www.hangar18miniatures.com/photo-backdrops/size-a2/shades-of-blue-16-x-23-inch-a2/ Fyrbrand posted:This is what I was going to suggest. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2014 22:35
|
|
|
Pictures of this model have been horrible, but it's about 90% done. Tried to get the best picture I could but it's blurry and some details and colors are lost/appear to bleed together/washed out  I'm unsure of what to do with the sword. I was going to go with green, but I'm not sure if I should just make it a rusty blade. Thoughts? 
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2014 23:14
|
|
|
SRM posted:Does anyone know where one could get a big blue-white gradient sheet of paper? All the old 'Eavy Metal photography had their models against one: Do you have some large sheets of white paper, an airbrush, and some blue paint? I'd imagine with a bit of gentle layering you could make one yourself.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2014 00:32
|
|
|
Tenterhooks posted:
Do you have more of them done? These are amazing.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2014 00:47
|
|
|
Also I gotta say those are some amazing photos as well. Have to remember that guide myself for future photo opportunities. Even if I don't think I'll have an opportunity to have a slightly reflecting surface on the bottom which I think is a great touch to the picture.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2014 01:38
|
|
|
SRM posted:Does anyone know where one could get a big blue-white gradient sheet of paper? All the old 'Eavy Metal photography had their models against one: Go to walmart or where ever, buy a dirt cheap poster, flip that fucker over and use an airbrush with some blue, and make your own, will be done in about 15 minutes and cost you all of $2 some blue paint (can even use poo poo craft paint for this,) and time. edit: instead of a poster, you can get a large sheet of poster-board, might be a couple dollars, but will be stronger and not glossy.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2014 04:02
|
|
|
The Sex Cannon posted:Do you have more of them done? These are amazing. Thanks! Yeah. Here's the team so far. I think I've posted everyone individually, but not together:  I've still to add numbers to the linemen and I might make their helmets grey to further distinguish them from the yet-to-be-painted blitzers as the miniatures are fairly similar.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2014 09:13
|
|
|
Latest finished figures, again more Rackham stuff for Hybrid. Cynwäll Elf Varsym 
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2014 10:24
|
|
|
What's a good source in the US for airbrush stencils, preferably reusable? Or alternatively, I own a Silhouette machine, so what's a good source for stencil pattern files?
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2014 14:54
|
|
|
dr_ether posted:Latest finished figures, again more Rackham stuff for Hybrid. Maaaan, I love old Confrontation models. They seem more and more like fantasy Infinity. I really need to get some
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2014 15:04
|
|
|
Tenterhooks posted:Thanks! Yeah. Here's the team so far. I think I've posted everyone individually, but not together: Those look awesome! I really wish I had people playing Blood Bowl locally, or that it was still being supported with new models. Probably the only GW game that's really interested me.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2014 15:06
|
|
|
Checking in to say that Fire Warrior backpacks are things of hatred and suffering. Dear god these mold lines.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2014 15:20
|
|
|
An Angry Bug posted:Checking in to say that Fire Warrior backpacks are things of hatred and suffering. Dear god these mold lines. The Fire Warrior kit is really, really showing its age.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2014 15:28
|
|
|
dr_ether posted:Latest finished figures, again more Rackham stuff for Hybrid. Fantastic.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2014 15:43
|
|
|
My x23 legionnaires have turned into a death slog. I painted x15 in one batch earlier this year and it was 'ok', but doing about 25 is making me loose my sanity. Not seeing any progress for hours and hours of work sucks. I'm almost done with the base coats though 
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2014 18:12
|
|
|
Painting huge batches is pretty soul crushing. It wasn't so bad when I was doing Valhallans, as I could paint them up really quickly by the time I'd finished my first few squads, but I was painting a mob of 15 Cadians earlier that was pretty painful to chew through. I'm painting 10 bikers now and I'm pretty sure batch painting bikes will break me. Finished up the second group of 5 Assault Marines. I've armed two of them with hand flamers, which I'll be using as regular flamers in games of 7th ed 40k. If I ever get to play 2nd ed with these guys, you bet they'll be using those old hand flamer templates though!        And everything I've finished this month: 
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2014 19:33
|
|
|
Pierzak posted:Maaaan, I love old Confrontation models. They seem more and more like fantasy Infinity. I really need to get some I have quite a haul arriving soon thanks to some good buying on ebay. Loads of Griffin to form a Inquisition cadre (the Lodge of Hod who are good guys in Hybrid are also enemies of the Inquisition, even though they are from the same country), and some Lions of Alahan.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2014 19:41
|
|
|
Hey I got amazon gift card money burning a hole in my pocket. What's the most cost-effective quality airbrush compressor again? I need something that doesn't pulse and is quiet. I don't need two-brush, I have quick disconnects. Also isn't it about time we either add oodles of airbrush advice to the OP or start an airbrushing thread?
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2014 20:07
|
|
|
serious gaylord posted:The Fire Warrior kit is really, really showing its age. Hahahahaha, are they still selling that piece of garbage? It was amazing when it was first released when I was, like, 16. I'm 29 now.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2014 20:21
|
|
|
Spigs posted:Those look awesome! I really wish I had people playing Blood Bowl locally, or that it was still being supported with new models. Probably the only GW game that's really interested me. Not GW produced, but there's an awful lot to of 3rd party manufacturers making models for 'fantasy football'. Some are even really good! You should drop into the specialist games thread and check out more.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2014 21:34
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:Hey I got amazon gift card money burning a hole in my pocket. What's the most cost-effective quality airbrush compressor again? I need something that doesn't pulse and is quiet. I don't need two-brush, I have quick disconnects. The TC-20T seems to be a budget favorite. Also, 'pulsing' is a myth. quote:Also isn't it about time we either add oodles of airbrush advice to the OP or start an airbrushing thread?
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2014 22:12
|
|
|
krushgroove posted:The TC-20T seems to be a budget favorite. Also, 'pulsing' is a myth. Thanks for the rec. As for the pulsing, I have no other way to explain it. I have this: http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush%C2%AE-Performance-Airbrush-Compressor/dp/B00ATDTL12/ It does its job. It compresses air, but even with thinned paint, if you don't hook up a tank and regulator in-line, it sputters rhythmically.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2014 22:27
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:Thanks for the rec. As for the pulsing, I have no other way to explain it. I have this: http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush%C2%AE-Performance-Airbrush-Compressor/dp/B00ATDTL12/ Get a longer hose, even if you don't need the slack. The "pulsing" will disappear.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2014 23:20
|
|
|
Gonna try painting on stream to give me a little more motivation. Come yell at me on twitch: http://twitch.tv/EverblightWIP
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2014 00:21
|
|
|
 Anyone have any ideas on how to get the sort of warm-bone color here? Everything I try ends up too dark.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2014 02:23
|
|
|
JoshTheStampede posted:Get a longer hose, even if you don't need the slack. The "pulsing" will disappear. Gon' try this without my tank
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2014 02:43
|
|
|
REAL MUSCLE MILK posted:
That's pretty similar to my Necrons:  Zenithal Highlight of -GW Steel Legion Drab -GW Nurgling Green -50/50 GW Nurgling Green/P3 Menoth White Highlight Wash GW Gryphonne Sepia Re Highlight as needed Line Highlight of P3 Menoth White Highlight
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2014 03:35
|
|
|
MasterSlowPoke posted:That's pretty similar to my Necrons: Where's that mechanical horse from?
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2014 04:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 16, 2024 17:29 |
|
|
Warhammer fantasy imperial engineer dude.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2014 04:25
|
|