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It was.
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Oct 25, 2014 20:01
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Liquid Communism posted:Some of us just run all terrains all year. A surprising number of A/Ts actually are winter rated, it's just not advertised much for some reason. The last set of A/Ts my brother ran, as well as two of the sets I had on my service truck had the snowflake.
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Oct 25, 2014 20:04
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Sagebrush posted:
I'm not really sure if I would call burning zinc 'safe.' Maybe just, 'non-explosive.'
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Oct 25, 2014 20:14
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Tommychu posted:A surprising number of A/Ts actually are winter rated, it's just not advertised much for some reason. The last set of A/Ts my brother ran, as well as two of the sets I had on my service truck had the snowflake. Is that what the snowflake and the "M+S" mean? Cool.
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Oct 25, 2014 20:19
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Modern tire compounds are such that a lot of what makes a tire snow rated now comes down to aggressiveness of tread, so that really doesn't surprise me about A/T tires. Many of the high performance snow tires out there aren't much more than the company using their all-season compound in a more aggressive tread design. The specialized compounds are reserved for the more hardcore snows.
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Oct 25, 2014 20:26
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In my experience there is a world of difference between a good all season and a dedicated snow tire. I don't know if it is the tread or the siping or the compound but my vehicles are way more stable with mid-range snows than they are with top of the line all seasons.
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Oct 25, 2014 20:29
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bull3964 posted:Modern tire compounds are such that a lot of what makes a tire snow rated now comes down to aggressiveness of tread, so that really doesn't surprise me about A/T tires. Also, all m and s tires I saw in minnesota became hard as hell in -10. My hakkas were still soft. That said, I never tried the high performance snows (they seemed like a gimmick), so I dunno.
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Oct 25, 2014 20:34
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Things haven't been as dramatic for me. I've run both very good all-seasons and very good snows on my cars and the difference is noticeable under some circumstances, but really marginal most of the time. The car is, without a doubt, a tank in the snow with snow tires. However, some of the worst conditions I've ever driven in have been in all-seasons and never really had an issue with control during any of them. When things get really bad around here, things get really bad and nothing short of diamond carbide tipped tank treads are really going to make much of a difference. Ice+hills+curves=stay home and watch tv no matter how your car is equipped. As always, neither will compensate for the others on the road who go out with insufficient tread or expertise. So, the vast majority of the time you are going to be dealing with blind luck that you don't encounter someone that shouldn't be on the road at all during the conditions.
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Oct 25, 2014 20:40
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nm posted:A good, aggressive snow is using a different compound. This become apparent when you destroy them at 80f. I bought a car from Colorado that had some kind of dedicated snow tire on it... every time I drove the whole car ended up covered in black rubber from the tires destroying themselves on the Arizona road. 
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Oct 25, 2014 20:44
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InitialDave posted:I'll contribute with a quick photo of how the AA recommended you repair rust-holed sills, back in the days of pounds, shillings, and pence: Yeah, bondo/bog sill panels were common here even in the 1990s. My first RX3 had them, my second RX3 I did them, wasn't until for 4th RX3/808 chassis I found one without them. My first RX4, there was bondo/bog over the bondo/bog - rust plus what must have been a crash damage. My friends with datsuns had the same thing. Japanese monocoques and typical rust you find on them and typical 'bog jobs' you found in the 1990s on 1970s made cars. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Oct 25, 2014 |
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Oct 25, 2014 20:49
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bull3964 posted:Things haven't been as dramatic for me. I've run both very good all-seasons and very good snows on my cars and the difference is noticeable under some circumstances, but really marginal most of the time. The car is, without a doubt, a tank in the snow with snow tires. However, some of the worst conditions I've ever driven in have been in all-seasons and never really had an issue with control during any of them. My last snow tires before I moved to California were hakka rsis. On the lake, they were loving amazing on anything but smooth, pollished ice (though still usable at low speed). On the a street, with awd, unstoppable, even when plowing above my bumper.
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Oct 25, 2014 20:53
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nm posted:they were loving amazing on anything but smooth, pollished ice (though still usable at low speed). Hence my comment about staying home. Snow is easy. Snow is drat easy. I've plowed snow with my bumper on crappy RE92s. If you can't drive competently in snow in anything other than dedicated summer tires, you need to hand in your license right now and burn your car. I love when we get inches and inches of snow and have no trepidation about driving in those conditions. What sucks is when you had that 40 degree day after having a week of sub 20 degree temperatures, right around sunset it starts to drizzle, just as it stays hovering right around freezing. Within 20 minutes everything is encased in a glaze of ice and your daily commute involves going over roads that look like this.  Then you get something like this and even studded tires aren't going to help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6249iHSJsKo
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Oct 25, 2014 21:13
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InitialDave posted:Yes, that's chicken wire. Structural chicken wire.
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Oct 25, 2014 21:15
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Structural chicken wire. Its on the same aisle of the parts store as structural duct tape and fuel-rated garden hose.
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Oct 25, 2014 21:23
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bull3964 posted:
I discovered this after using snow tires for the first time ever, they were studded and I had to be really careful about braking since I was able to stop much faster than everyone else. The brakes would barely lock on fresh/lightly packed snow. Had no problem beating trucks and SUVs at stoplights
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Oct 26, 2014 01:24
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Ford F350 4x4 Duallie limps in with almost no brakes. Customer states that there was a loud clunk when he hit the brakes and then the pedal went to the floor. "I just put new pads on it not long ago."    Aside from the flange still mounted between the hub and bearing, this was all that was left of the rotor. The inboard brake pad was missing entirely and the ABS sensor wire was severed. The other rotor looked rusty and thin enough to eventually fail like this one did. Luckily, the owner agreed to a complete front brake overhaul and two new hub bearings, since the old ones were also degrading rapidly and very noisy. "It's been making that noise for a while, I thought it was just in the tires!" 
Root Bear fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Oct 26, 2014 |
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Oct 26, 2014 04:45
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Holy poo poo. I've done my fair share of ignoring brake/front-end problems but I think I'd notice when I hit the pedal and the cacophonous shrieking of dying angels fills the surrounding fifteen blocks before my runaway truck smashes through everything in front of me on its way to finding a drainage culvert and bursting into flames.
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Oct 26, 2014 05:16
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Holy gently caress.
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Oct 26, 2014 06:00
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Holy poo poo. I've done my fair share of ignoring brake/front-end problems but I think I'd notice when I hit the pedal and the cacophonous shrieking of dying angels fills the surrounding fifteen blocks before my runaway truck smashes through everything in front of me on its way to finding a drainage culvert and bursting into flames. No, all of that metal scraping and grinding noise was just the tires, right?
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Oct 26, 2014 06:50
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Someone at work today told me they just replaced all four brakes on their old GMC Jimmy at 86,000 miles... for the first time.
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Oct 26, 2014 07:06
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A customer brought their boom lift in because one of the wheels wasn't driving/braking. Each drive wheel has it's own hydraulic motor, with a brake and a planetary final drive inside the hub. We start by draining the hub oil.  It's hard to tell in the picture but this oil is full of tiny metal shavings, so right away we're off to a good start.  Also the magnetic drain plug looks like a Chia Pet.  Sun gear.  One of the planet gears. You can also make out missing chunks of teeth on the outer ring gear.  Sun gear again. Side note: these gear sets should slide in and out like butter, but I had to pound most of the components out with a 4lb sledge and a drift. On the bright side, when this machine leaves our shop, the drive hub will be like brand new!
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Oct 26, 2014 07:22
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Someone at work today told me they just replaced all four brakes on their old GMC Jimmy at 86,000 miles... for the first time. I pulled the Vibe's factory front brakes at 93k miles, almost all city, driving like Ricky Bobby. They still had some meat but Corolla-platform brakes are cheap as gently caress and I was getting a bit of noise from some slight glazing issues. Engine braking rules.
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Oct 26, 2014 07:33
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InitialDave posted:I'll contribute with a quick photo of how the AA recommended you repair rust-holed sills, back in the days of pounds, shillings, and pence: Now I know where the loving dipshit that owned my white MJ before my friend bought it learned to do body repair  The rockers were a massive mess of that poo poo, except he used window screening. A traffic cone took most of it off at highway speeds though Still doesn't explain why that rear end in a top hat thought that random white housepaint was an acceptable automotive paint however.
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Oct 26, 2014 07:59
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Someone at work today told me they just replaced all four brakes on their old GMC Jimmy at 86,000 miles... for the first time. I just rolled over 85k on my car with the original brakes. 4-6 mile commute in little to no traffic for years (working 2nd and 3rd shift), lots of engine braking, and at least half the miles are interstate because I visit the folks 2.5 hours away often. I keep checking them and they seem fine. They have wear sensors and the car hasn't said a peep about them being low.
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Oct 26, 2014 13:43
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kastein posted:Still doesn't explain why that rear end in a top hat thought that random white housepaint was an acceptable automotive paint however. One of my treasured memories of childhood is circa 1983, helping dad repaint his 1977 Pontiac Grand Safari with Sears "Best" white acrylic house paint. It got a new coat every six months, or whenever he had extra white paint around. That car must've seen some serious poo poo, because the floors were already rotted out by the time he got it in 1983, and I could watch the lines go by under my feet. It had a Pontiac 400, though, so even though it sucked down fuel like a refinery on fire, at least it was slow too.
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Oct 26, 2014 15:03
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kastein posted:Still doesn't explain why that rear end in a top hat thought that random white housepaint was an acceptable automotive paint however. Your PO and my PO should get together and go bowling.
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Oct 26, 2014 16:12
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The fiancee's Prius got new brakes at 140k. Regenerative braking is pretty incredible.
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Oct 26, 2014 17:51
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A Melted Tarp posted:The fiancee's Prius got new brakes at 140k. Regenerative braking is pretty incredible. I figured they would have taken that into account, and equipped the car with super thin pads or something just to make sure they can nail you with that maintenance cost at 50k
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Oct 26, 2014 18:09
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xzzy posted:I figured they would have taken that into account, and equipped the car with super thin pads or something just to make sure they can nail you with that maintenance cost at 50k Lower owning and operating costs are A big selling point and on top of that making a special snowflake brake pad would like cost more than using a pad which already at high sales volume levels.
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Oct 26, 2014 18:37
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Besides, they can hit you with rotors when they get lot rot because the regenerative braking takes care of basically all the braking, the service brakes are only engaged during an ABS event. Or at least that's how it was on the 1G/2G, not sure if the newer ones kiss the service brakes once in a while to keep the rust off.
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Oct 26, 2014 18:55
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Tommychu posted:Besides, they can hit you with rotors when they get lot rot because the regenerative braking takes care of basically all the braking, the service brakes are only engaged during an ABS event. Or at least that's how it was on the 1G/2G, not sure if the newer ones kiss the service brakes once in a while to keep the rust off. Less than 7mph I believe.
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Oct 26, 2014 19:00
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A Melted Tarp posted:Less than 7mph I believe. At 5mph.  It's an annoying transition too, keep your foot in the same spot and it goes from nice smooth braking to GONNA STOP ON A DIME HANG ON TO YER COFFEE.
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Oct 26, 2014 21:19
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xzzy posted:At 5mph. Actually the regular brakes kick in anytime the regenerative system reaches 55 amps of current, which at highway speed is not actually that much
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Oct 26, 2014 21:34
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xzzy posted:At 5mph. My Volt is the opposite. When the friction brakes engage, at a slow stop, the braking becomes LESS intense, leading you to think you're going to tag the car in front of you, and jabbing the brake pedal.
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Oct 26, 2014 21:35
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^Wanna see a Yenko Volt.
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Oct 26, 2014 21:39
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This qualifies as a mechanical failure right? My Subaru kinda broke in my last rally-race when I went off a blind crest into not-the-road. Broke the wheel, which I then drove on for another 7+km at rally speed, and when I finally stopped because I lost brake pressure I found this! Caliper pins and pads ejected, rotor is hosed, the knuckle sheared at the trailing arm mount, and to top it off I bent the passenger front strut tower in about 20mm! This is what I get for trying to keep up with the fast teams I guess!     
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Oct 27, 2014 01:57
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duuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuude
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Oct 27, 2014 02:05
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Why do you have a sheet of drywall hoseclampped to your suspension
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Oct 27, 2014 02:37
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Ehhh, good push dude.
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Oct 27, 2014 03:33
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 17:53 |
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This is the worst 'horrible mechanical failure' I've ever dealt with - or rather, it could have been, if I had not caught it in time. Backstory: I was on my way home from San Diego on Monday when I suddenly developed a vibration which I was sure was coming from the rear wheels. I figured that a tire had just thrown its weights off, since it seemed to smooth out a little above 75 mph, and was most pronounced at 60ish. I deferred the issue, kept driving for another 5 days before I had the time to get the car in to a tire shop. They pulled the wheel off, and this is what they found...     An hour before those pictures were taken on Friday, I had been doing roughly 100 mph on the 134 freeway... I'm freaking lucky. No idea what caused it, I don't remember a hit - but the rim was slightly bent, and the tire wrecked... I know, weak sauce compared to the other stuff in here, but what would've happened would have been a lot more dramatic and possibly injurious to me... so I'm lucky that it was discovered.
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Oct 27, 2014 03:52
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