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That old carb is off probably an older 1300 engine. Isn't a 30/31 pic way too small for a 1600cc? That's probably why the car had no balls. What is the new carb?
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Oct 7, 2014 19:25
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| # ? Apr 20, 2024 05:32 |
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Holy moly I want that license plate. Trim and paint job look good. Normally I dig the no bumper look on those, but I think yours looks better with them.
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Oct 7, 2014 19:44
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veedubfreak posted:That old carb is off probably an older 1300 engine. Isn't a 30/31 pic way too small for a 1600cc? That's probably why the car had no balls. What is the new carb? The old one was jetted crazy to compensate. Had something like 75 and 80 idle and power assist jets. Explains my poor fuel mileage, too. New one is a Chinese made 34 pict/3 I found new for $75. It's taken a bit to sort out the idle circuit, but otherwise was perfect from the box. Right out of the package I had terrible hesitation on initial acceleration, but the accelerator pump nozzle was aimed in the wrong direction and the volume and bypass screws were all over the place.
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Oct 7, 2014 20:09
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Good, I thought I still remembered my carb sizes.  75 bucks for a brand new carb is a good deal.The bumper brackets rusted out on the rear of my car. I'm still debating if I have the give a gently caress enough to actually find proper brackets or just weld in new metal and close up the holes. Also still trying to decide if I want to get rid of the peanuts up front and just move the turns into the bucket.  Rust is evil.
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Oct 7, 2014 20:25
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slip proof stairs posted:Holy moly I want that license plate. Trim and paint job look good. Normally I dig the no bumper look on those, but I think yours looks better with them. Isn't every scrap metal thief who ever sees that also going to want it?
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Oct 8, 2014 07:50
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Unless a tweaker did a hell of a job shredding it up first, it'd be too easy to check against the MVD to see if the plate had been reported stolen. Also, if you could get that plate with vanity text, I'd probably have one on the GMC.
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Oct 8, 2014 17:05
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If I could get it customized, I'd have them on all but one of my vehicles. As it is, it's pretty cool anyway. Today I've been chasing down a phantom hesitation. On the bug, from idle, I can accelerate away normally. When I'm going to try to "gun it," though, the car bogs down and coughs and sputters. Actually lifting off of the throttle slightly, from maybe 1/2-3/4 down to 1/4 to 1/8, however, "catches" the car back up and it accelerates away like someone kicked its rear end. I've adjusted the accelerator pump tube (was pointed off), adjusted the choke (it's fine - fully open when hot), adjusted the "idle set screw" (.015mm gap, then 1/2 turn more to contact), adjusted the bypass screw (couple turns out to start, then adjust afterwards to change idle) and volume screw (2 1/2 turns out, then adjust 1/2 turn either up or down for 900rpm or so, then down to 850 and use the bypass screw to adjust back up). I've been back and forth with the accelerator pump amount (all the way back and forth from full -5 to full +5, currently on -1.5 or so). Some settings were way worse, to the point the car wouldn't pull away at all and I stalled on an on-ramp a few times (minor hesitation also occurs if I gas it in 2nd or 3rd gear down to 3/4 throttle immediately after shifting, like I used to on the h30/31). Two of the biggest improvements, enough that the car is right-now driveable, were me changing the generic "55"-stamped idle jet (seriously, no other markings) out for the Solex 65 from the h30/31, and cleaning the distributor out. The distributor had some black dust that was created when I installed the electronic ignition's timing wheel very slightly too far low and it rubbed on the ignitor unit and shaved a little plastic away. Afterwards, I sprayed the entire inside of the distributor with clear silicone lubricant slash solvent (takes paint off, mostly volatile and boils like carb cleaner, but leaves a very minuscule amount of silicone lubricant behind, allegedly). I don't know exactly which one improved things most, as per my usual idiotic self I did both at the same time (bad science!). After all of that, the car is a ton better, and has a poo poo-ton more power when it has power than the h30/31 ever did. Honestly it drives better than my father's 1983 Ford Ranger ever did, but it's missing that immediate "pep" it had with the smaller carb. My fiancee's CB650 is similar, I guess, in the fact that you can't just blip the throttle to full and not expect it to stumble and maybe die, but my foot is used to the engine being constantly starved and hot, I guess. Or maybe the distributor (an SVDA) is still dirty or something and the timing was just a coincidence. Either way, I have new plugs, wires, and a valve adjustment to do on my next day off. Could be slightly tight valves or something that were more tolerant with the other carb, and it's due (3,500 miles) for an adjustment anyway.
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Oct 9, 2014 06:11
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Fuel pressure? Float level?
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Oct 9, 2014 06:25
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Fuel pressure feels good (sprays the gently caress out of my hand, my shade-tree test). Float level, though, I'm not sure of. That's a good one to check, I guess.
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Oct 9, 2014 06:32
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Geirskogul posted:Fuel pressure feels good (sprays the gently caress out of my hand, my shade-tree test). Float level, though, I'm not sure of. That's a good one to check, I guess. Yeah, either thing can lead to all sorts of erratic weirdness, so I've read. Fuel pressure can't be too high, mind you, although some carbs are more sensitive to that than others. I've heard of folks needing FPRs on even mechanical pumps for some of the pickier ones. I'll be interested in seeing what you come up with; I've got a bog-on-WOT I'm trying to track down too. Mine happens when the secondaries open (4V) but changing the secondary mixture doesn't seem to make it better. It occurs to me that I haven't checked my own float level recently, haha.
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Oct 9, 2014 06:39
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It's not float level if you can back off it and drive fine. First guess would be accelerator pump (possibly defective?), second would be ignition timing. Have you had a timing light on it?
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Oct 9, 2014 07:36
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All indications that I've seen show the svda is timed statically at 7.5 BTDC, which I've done. In fact, it was timed to that before, and after changing to the electronic ignition I re-timed it, but I didn't really have to move anything because it was already just about perfectly in place (though I twisted it back and forth just to be sure). Do I need a light? Essentially yeah, to put it simply, it bogs down at near WOT, but backing it off and letting it spin up a little gets a ton of power.
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Oct 9, 2014 07:57
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Wait, can you roll onto the throttle? Or will it always cut out at wot, whether you floor it or roll into it? If it always does it, whether you roll into it or not, then yea, float level.
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Oct 9, 2014 10:54
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WOT is fine if I roll into it slowly. It's quick bursts that choke it the gently caress up - like an old round-slide carburetor on a motorcycle or something.
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Oct 9, 2014 19:39
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Too much accelerator pump squirt? Or, maybe it isn't working at all.
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Oct 9, 2014 20:13
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I'd lean towards too little / none at all. If the pump is squirting too much fuel when you stand on the gas, backing off should make it stall instead of clear up.
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Oct 9, 2014 20:14
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It squirts, all right. When stationary I can squirt it by pulling the throttle sharply; that's how I aimed it. After the car fully warms up (oil temps north of 200), it's much less pronounced, and almost undetectable. I wonder if there's a glob of RTV or something inside the intake. I did coat the carburetor base gasket with RTV thinly, and maybe it squeezed out a little, messing with airflow.
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Oct 9, 2014 20:24
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With my admittedly rather weak understanding of carbs I'd assume timing and/or not enough accelerator pump as well, that's how my sister's 720 was acting.
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Oct 10, 2014 18:49
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Geirskogul posted:WOT is fine if I roll into it slowly. It's quick bursts that choke it the gently caress up - like an old round-slide carburetor on a motorcycle or something. Check your float needle assembly. Surfaces should be perfectly smooth. Sounds like it might be sticking.
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Oct 10, 2014 19:57
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Minor update: I'm pretty sure it is the distributor sticking. I'll go through periods where I have a ton of power, immediately into having almost no power on the next stop, but then again immediately having power after revving it a few times. Either something to do with the centrifugal advance sticking, the vacuum advance leaking, or a combination. Looks like I get to tear down the distributor and give it a good clean and grease, as spraying wildly with silicone solvent/lubricant only made things marginally better  Either that, or it's something to do still with the carburetor. Who said in another thread last week that "if you think it's the carburetor, it's the ignition, and if you think it's the ignition, it's the carburetor"?
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Oct 13, 2014 23:36
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Geirskogul posted:Minor update: I'm pretty sure it is the distributor sticking. I'll go through periods where I have a ton of power, immediately into having almost no power on the next stop, but then again immediately having power after revving it a few times. Either something to do with the centrifugal advance sticking, the vacuum advance leaking, or a combination. Looks like I get to tear down the distributor and give it a good clean and grease, as spraying wildly with silicone solvent/lubricant only made things marginally better Got a picture of the spark plugs?
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Oct 14, 2014 18:22
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No picture, but I changed them out yesterday. All four were pretty evenly worn, with a bit of white powdering but otherwise good. Maybe I still have them? I don't know, have to check.
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Oct 14, 2014 18:40
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Geirskogul posted:Do I need a light? Yes, it'll tell you if your vacuum or mechanical advance are working right, or working at all. And if you're simply setting timing by the mark on the distributor you can be anywhere from +10 to -10 and not even know it. A 5° difference will be noticeable at the pedal.
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Oct 14, 2014 19:38
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Geirskogul posted:Either that, or it's something to do still with the carburetor. Who said in another thread last week that "if you think it's the carburetor, it's the ignition, and if you think it's the ignition, it's the carburetor"? It's always both. Always.
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Oct 14, 2014 19:56
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LloydDobler posted:Yes, it'll tell you if your vacuum or mechanical advance are working right, or working at all. And if you're simply setting timing by the mark on the distributor you can be anywhere from +10 to -10 and not even know it. A 5° difference will be noticeable at the pedal. I'm not using a mark on the distributor - timing was set with a light on the coil, and with the crank pulley. Stock pulleys have a notch, mine has degree markings, but either way all manuals say to set it statically at 7.5 BTDC, then rotate the distributor CCW until the light lights up. Though a proper light would help to see if part of the advance was working while parked with no load, I can't get a light on there under load for the vacuum advance without a dyno, unless I'm missing something. Either way, the car is 100% fine one second, I'll go over a bump, then it'll be poo poo, so I'm thinking hopefully dirty distributor (deep down - I've got a new cap and rotor on there already) with a stuck centrifugal mechanism or something. I've already checked, cleaned, and re-done almost all of the ignition wiring.
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Oct 14, 2014 20:11
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You should have high vacuum at idle. Check timing at idle with vacuum connected, then disconnect it and check it again. If the marks moved, the vacuum advance is at least somewhat working. You can use a mityvac if you want to characterize its effects.
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Oct 14, 2014 21:52
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Did another ghetto distributor cleaning with brake cleaner and electrical cleaner, and it's much better, holyshit. Still not perfect, but the rest requires a teardown. In other news, loving previous owners, DIAF     (He used a tin on both sides) 
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Oct 16, 2014 02:19
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Sorry that these are horribly blurry (goddamn I need a new cellphone), but the new door cards:  The speakers sound 100% better mounted in the front corners instead of the rear corners hidden by the seats.
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Oct 21, 2014 01:40
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Sir Cornelius posted:It's always both. Always. True. When I first read of the problem I thought "it's probably the carb accel pump jet. No wait, could be timing..."  GS, the way you set the timing (static with a test light), is fine if you just want to get it going and everything is like new. If you want to work on an old car though, you need to look at everything dynamically. That means a timing light and a dwell-meter, so you can check that everything is not bouncing around due to wear like the distributor bearings, unbalanced weights or leaky/sticky base plates, diaphram or any other thing that has anything that rotates, moves, sparks in the ignition circuit (which is a lot!). E:So having a timing light and dwell meter can prove a lot if timing signal and dwell is smooth and predictable. Which means then you can have fun with a carb! Fo3 fucked around with this message at 12:32 on Oct 21, 2014 |
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Oct 21, 2014 12:28
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Welp, almost lost the car (and/or my life today) to a bunch of drunk people. After this video ends, I confronted the three people in the car about it at a gas station (two hispanic women, one very very fat hispanic guy). They were apologetic at first, but the moment I said "are you drunk? I smell alcohol." all three of them nearly dove into the Explorer and loving bolted. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fiFToEn4IZs For the record, I was going 35-39 in a 40 zone, and they were stopped in a left-turn-only lane on the other side of the light rail.
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Oct 27, 2014 11:05
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Time to be drat glad your brakes work.
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Oct 27, 2014 18:09
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Is it bad that I burst out laughing when you used the horn?
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Oct 27, 2014 19:08
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Is it bad that I burst out laughing when you used the horn? Nah, that's an appropriate response to the clown horn.
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Oct 27, 2014 19:16
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All of these things are related. ALL OF THEM
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Nov 7, 2014 10:23
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A confetti cannon based on a Thunderbolt 1000C which fires googly eyes and simultaneously illuminates the cloud with a strobe light, while playing Yackety Sax. You will cool the motor for the confetti cannon/siren with the waterblock and radiator. You picked a Federal Signal harness because you like fires in hard-to-reach places. You need to do this because a moose moved in next door and if that isn't a good excuse to make a siren-based-googly-eye-cannon, then what is? (I cannot imagine how all of these things could be related, but the United States is a very strange place with far too few venomous spiders when viewed from an antipodean perspective).
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Nov 7, 2014 13:35
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Oh, I can't wait for this. And I need a "fire missiles" button now.
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Nov 7, 2014 21:50
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Geirskogul posted:Welp, almost lost the car (and/or my life today) to a bunch of drunk people. After this video ends, I confronted the three people in the car about it at a gas station (two hispanic women, one very very fat hispanic guy). They were apologetic at first, but the moment I said "are you drunk? I smell alcohol." all three of them nearly dove into the Explorer and loving bolted. What loving assholes, if they killed your car Id come to wherever you live and help kick their asses. Also goddamn, Beetles haul rear end compared to buses which are the only aircooleds I have driven. I miss that sound, too.
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Nov 7, 2014 22:39
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Fart Pipe posted:I miss that sound, too. I'm wondering if I could make a Subaru engine sound like one, I imagine a lot of the sound comes from the weird firing order. Some creative exhaust work might get it close.
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Nov 7, 2014 23:10
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DJ Commie posted:I'm wondering if I could make a Subaru engine sound like one, I imagine a lot of the sound comes from the weird firing order. Some creative exhaust work might get it close. Yea I always wondered why Subies didnt sound like that but I never thought of the firing order. Could just be the short pipes going to the muffler on the VWs also.
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Nov 7, 2014 23:12
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| # ? Apr 20, 2024 05:32 |
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Short headers combined with a very basic muffler can? I mean, the roadkill guys said, "When people ask us what engine sounds the best, we say 'Flowmaster'."
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Nov 7, 2014 23:24
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