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Got my router and modem in. Both hooked up and all is well. Only question I have is if I should actually use the dual band or not. I live on 3 acres and don't have any neighbors near me. Should I leave it alone or go ahead and just turn off the 5ghz?
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Dec 13, 2014 18:15
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rotaryfun posted:Got my router and modem in. Both hooked up and all is well. Only question I have is if I should actually use the dual band or not. I live on 3 acres and don't have any neighbors near me. Should I leave it alone or go ahead and just turn off the 5ghz?
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Dec 13, 2014 18:23
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SiGmA_X posted:What router do you suggest? I just bought a POS Netgear (WNR3500Lv2) and am sorely disappointed by it. Its fine with one wireless device, and goes to hell with 3, so badly that I may as well not try using the internet. Thankfully it will be easy to return this pile. I absolutely LOVE my RT-N66U, it's one of the most stable routers I've owned ever, period. I am almost wishing I had spent the extra on a AC66U for 802.11AC as I feel this will be the last router I get for a long time. I've not even bothered with third party firmwares, the stock is stable as hell, and has all the functionality I need (usable dual band, and IPv6 were my big ones).
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Dec 13, 2014 19:10
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Thanks for the link! That C7 may fit the ticket for my router woes.37th Chamber posted:I absolutely LOVE my RT-N66U, it's one of the most stable routers I've owned ever, period. I am almost wishing I had spent the extra on a AC66U for 802.11AC as I feel this will be the last router I get for a long time. SiGmA_X fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Dec 13, 2014 |
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Dec 13, 2014 20:01
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SiGmA_X posted:What router do you suggest? I just bought a POS Netgear (WNR3500Lv2) and am sorely disappointed by it. Its fine with one wireless device, and goes to hell with 3, so badly that I may as well not try using the internet. Thankfully it will be easy to return this pile. I've only had mine for two days, but thus far it's the best router I've ever owned. Hopefully it holds up over time.
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Dec 13, 2014 22:05
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Josh Lyman posted:5GHz will give you faster speeds but can't travel as far as 2.4GHz. If you get a good 5GHz signal, use it. Though if your ISP isn't more than 25Mbps or so, you probably won't see any benefit from 5GHz unless you're transferring data wirelessly within your network. So is it ok to have them both on? Will my devices be able to swap between the frequencies without trouble or is it best to pick one and turn off of the other?
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Dec 14, 2014 18:36
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rotaryfun posted:So is it ok to have them both on? Will my devices be able to swap between the frequencies without trouble or is it best to pick one and turn off of the other? It is best to have them both on but with different SSIDs.
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Dec 15, 2014 20:05
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UndyingShadow posted:It is best to have them both on but with different SSIDs. That depends on what you're trying to do. Different SSIDs means you will have to manually switch between them when you roam outside the range of the 5g radio. Same SSID means that you might be stuck on 2g when you're sitting right next to the router because it's broadcasting with more power. I really need to get unlazy and finish the infobomb I started
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Dec 15, 2014 21:28
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CrazyLittle posted:That depends on what you're trying to do. Different SSIDs means you will have to manually switch between them when you roam outside the range of the 5g radio. Same SSID means that you might be stuck on 2g when you're sitting right next to the router because it's broadcasting with more power. So what's your suggestion?
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Dec 15, 2014 21:52
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For everyone picking up the TP-Link Archer C7 make sure all your equipment works properly with it. I had a version 1 C7 about a year ago and the Qualcomm chipset had some major issues. I posted a copy of the review I wrote about it below. Supposedly the v2 version of the C7 fixed the major issues, and also allows 3rd party firmware support, but the chipset is still Qualcomm based. I would really suggest making sure all your devices work properly with the router during the return period. I personally favor Broadcom chipsets in wifi routers now. If you do get a V1 return that poo poo ASAP. quote:I really wanted to like this router, but unfortunately I ended up returning it.
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Dec 15, 2014 21:59
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rotaryfun posted:So what's your suggestion? If you have stuff on your wireless network that doesn't work so great on 2ghz or 5ghz then sure split your SSIDs. If you're trying to walk around and have "wifi for clueless people" then just put them on the same SSID. If you like to micromanage, split them and then turn off the DHCP server so that all your guests who visit have to ask you for an IP... because you're that kind of network admin.
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Dec 15, 2014 23:35
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CrazyLittle posted:If you like to micromanage, split them and then turn off the DHCP server so that all your guests who visit have to ask you for an IP... because you're that kind of network admin. Haha oh lord no. I'll just leave it split so I can swap to 2.4 in bed and what not. That's fine with me. People can connect to whatever they want.
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Dec 15, 2014 23:45
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CrazyLittle posted:That depends on what you're trying to do. Different SSIDs means you will have to manually switch between them when you roam outside the range of the 5g radio. Same SSID means that you might be stuck on 2g when you're sitting right next to the router because it's broadcasting with more power. Most devices are lazy and will latch onto the first AP/Band they see, which will invariably by 2.4ghz due to much better signal penetration through exterior walls. I have yet to find a device (outside of a laptop) that would properly switch to 5ghz when it was clearly higher bandwidth. I made sure I had plenty of 5ghz coverage and just kept the 2.4ghz network on for older devices that don't support dual band.
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Dec 16, 2014 00:39
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What I do is have 2.4GHz and 5GHz on separate non-broadcasted SSIDs, and then a 2.4GHz guest network SSID that is broadcast for if someone visiting needs to use it.
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Dec 16, 2014 01:09
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rotaryfun posted:So what's your suggestion? I suggest separate SSIDs, depending on your devices. For example, if they're both on the same SSID, Apple computers and devices will tend to prefer the 2.4GHz network even if the 5GHz network is in range, due to the 2.4GHz network having a better SNR.
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Dec 16, 2014 02:20
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That's where I'm at right now. Everything seems pretty happy. I have two ssid's home and home_5ghz, people can just pick one when they come over. I live in the woods and am about a quarter mile from anyone on either side so I don't have any security on the router. And of the people that I live around it's family. So I'm not worried about anything. Thanks everyone for the help and tips! I really appreciate it and am already happy with the new setup. Noticeable difference even.
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Dec 16, 2014 03:32
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I have a RB750 connected to a Netgear DSL modem, the RB750 handles the PPPoE connection for AT&T. Yes, I hate it. But, I have this problem with Amazon where half the time the page will not load. I do not notice this ANYWHERE else, but Amazon. I've tried turning off IPv6 with no improvement, I've tried loving around with MTU, no improvement. I'm using Google's DSL settings. What else should I try to get Amazon to load correctly?
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Dec 17, 2014 01:09
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I'm assuming you mean Google's DNS settings? Are you running an ad-blocker? Have you tried alternative browsers? Does the same thing happen to multiple PCs / devices?
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Dec 17, 2014 02:09
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Internet Explorer posted:I'm assuming you mean Google's DNS settings? Yes to DNS. Yes to Ad-blocker, but it also happens with Chrome on my tablet and phone. Wife has had the same problem on her laptop. It doesn't happen as often when I shut down everything else happening on the network (IE, I have more page stalls/fails to load at high network load). This makes me think it is a dropped packet kind of issue and not a software issue.
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Dec 17, 2014 04:16
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Is it possible to set up a Mikrotik 750GL to get multiple IPs on a single port? I get multiple external IPs from my ISP. Currently, I have it set up with Modem -> Switch -> 2 Routers. The modem is a Cisco DPC-3010, and I have an Asus RT-N66U and a TP Link WDR3400 dividing my network. I'd like to continue to utilize the multiple IPs, but I was hoping to combine the devices to one internal network so I can share things easier among all my devices. I'm hoping this is something I can do with a Mikrotik, or maybe some other router if it's not possible with the 750GL.
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Dec 17, 2014 06:06
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I don't know if this goes in here or the Windows thread but let's try this: I have two pools of users. Let's call them snowflakes and cattle. I have about 100 snowflakes and a 1000+ cattle. All users are required to authenticate with two factor authentication. Cows are to be tied to a specific IP address (where they are supposed to be working from.) Snowflakes are special and are allowed to connect from anywhere in the world they can establish an HTTPS tunnel from. The application architecture is simple Windows RDP through Remote Desktop Gateway on Windows 2012. Is there a way I can do this without establishing a special VPN? I don't own the cattle or snowflake machines and installing client software is out of the question. The only way I can think of this is to remove the cattle from the RDGateway and make them have a VPN per user that ties their account to their IP fingerprint. Thoughts?
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Dec 18, 2014 14:43
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Mthrboard posted:Is it possible to set up a Mikrotik 750GL to get multiple IPs on a single port? I get multiple external IPs from my ISP. Currently, I have it set up with Modem -> Switch -> 2 Routers. The modem is a Cisco DPC-3010, and I have an Asus RT-N66U and a TP Link WDR3400 dividing my network. I'd like to continue to utilize the multiple IPs, but I was hoping to combine the devices to one internal network so I can share things easier among all my devices. I'm hoping this is something I can do with a Mikrotik, or maybe some other router if it's not possible with the 750GL. I don't have firsthand experience with Mikrotik, but you're looking to setup subinterfaces, and I would be pretty surprised if they weren't supported.
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Dec 18, 2014 15:33
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KennyG posted:I don't know if this goes in here or the Windows thread but let's try this:
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Dec 18, 2014 16:33
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So I just scrapped the lovely router/modem combo from my ISP in favour of a real modem and an RT-AC66U, and now I can't VNC to my HTPC. I literally do not own a keyboard that isn't part of a laptop, I've been VNCing this thing for over a year. I can still see the computer in Explorer and access shared files on it, hell I can stream games off it with Steam (of course, the built-in Windows Remote Desktop requires a password that I've forgotten). And I know the VNC server is running on the box, but it doesn't respond to connection attempts at all. They just time out. I know I'm using the right IP address as well, and I've tried manually assigning it a different one. Is there some setting I'm missing here? I thought I was pretty good at computers what is happen  (both boxes are running 7pro, laptop is wifi and the HTPC is cat5'd)
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Dec 19, 2014 07:44
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Tommychu posted:So I just scrapped the lovely router/modem combo from my ISP in favour of a real modem and an RT-AC66U, and now I can't VNC to my HTPC. I literally do not own a keyboard that isn't part of a laptop, I've been VNCing this thing for over a year. The HTPC probably decided that it's on an unknown public network and turned the firewall on for VNC ports. See if you can set it back to home or work in the network control panel.
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Dec 19, 2014 07:59
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Rexxed posted:The HTPC probably decided that it's on an unknown public network and turned the firewall on for VNC ports. See if you can set it back to home or work in the network control panel. Yep, that was exactly it.Thanks 
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Dec 19, 2014 08:33
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Mthrboard posted:Is it possible to set up a Mikrotik 750GL to get multiple IPs on a single port? I get multiple external IPs from my ISP. Currently, I have it set up with Modem -> Switch -> 2 Routers. The modem is a Cisco DPC-3010, and I have an Asus RT-N66U and a TP Link WDR3400 dividing my network. I'd like to continue to utilize the multiple IPs, but I was hoping to combine the devices to one internal network so I can share things easier among all my devices. I'm hoping this is something I can do with a Mikrotik, or maybe some other router if it's not possible with the 750GL. Sure! /ip addresses add address=x.x.x.1/29 interface=ether1-gateway Ta-da, you've added a new address to the ether1-gateway interface. Want to add another? /ip addresses add address=x.x.x.2/29 interface=ether1-gateway /ip addresses add address=x.x.x.3/29 interface=ether1-gateway (those are examples, you'd fill in whatever IP and CIDR mask for the range) You get the picture. In Winbox you just click into IP -> Addresses and then add them in. Once the addresses are in place, make sure you have an appropriate route in IP -> Routes and that should take care of that side. If you are NAT-ing through the addresses then be sure and write a NAT rule in IP -> Firewall -> NAT. For your specific example up above, how are you getting these IP addresses? Are you being given a block of IP's through PPPoE or just assigned a static block of addresses? You may just need to assign one of the IP's in the range to your router and then assign the rest to your other two routers and use the MikroTik as their gateway IP. It'll have its own gateway IP and route the packets merrily along to the upstream provider. Fun!
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Dec 19, 2014 19:42
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k I'm an idiot, just double-checked and the router was set to 'N-only'. Fixed it, everything is great. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 20:20 on Dec 19, 2014 |
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Dec 19, 2014 20:12
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You can add IPs to interfaces on Mikrotik stuff using CIDR notation? That's cool.
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Dec 19, 2014 20:12
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Inspector_666 posted:You can add IPs to interfaces on Mikrotik stuff using CIDR notation? That's cool. Yeah, it's much much nicer than digging out the old cheat sheet for subnet masks.
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Dec 19, 2014 20:19
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CuddleChunks posted:Sure! Thanks for the advice, but I forgot one
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Dec 20, 2014 07:15
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Mthrboard posted:Thanks for the advice, but I forgot one What are you hoping to accomplish in the end here?
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Dec 20, 2014 20:42
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Quick question about shibby tomato: anyone here tried installing it on R7000? I flashed it and updated everything but I don't know how to enable AC wireless and change the default ip address  Anyhelp appreciated
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Dec 20, 2014 20:52
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Hoping someone can give me some advice on adding WiFi strength around my house. I read the OP on repeaters and did some google searching but I think I'm more confused than when I started. I have a provider modem/router (Telus Optik which is TV over IP/ADSL) with wifi in the basement, it's wired in down there. Upper floor, opposite corner of house I have fairly poor Wifi reception. At this corner I have an RJ45 jack coming out of a TV set top box, and get 100mbit speeds from it. I figure I need something that I can hook to this port to boost wifi strength up here. Can 2 different devices operate on the same SSID to broadcast a wireless signal ? I need everything to see each other on my network as I have a plex server, a nas, and several android xbmc boxes around the house,
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Dec 22, 2014 03:16
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I need to get a new cable modem (docsis 3.0); this was my old one are there better alternatives now? I want to say that modem was recommended by this thread once upon a time (could be wrong, I bought it probably 5 years ago); am I seeing any benefit out of one that expensive? For the sake of argument lets say tapped out this would be 2 instances of Netflix streaming + bittorent. E.g. what benefit would the above have over something considerably cheaper, like this Blurex DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem or ARRIS SB6121? 2nd edit: Actually this Zoom 5341j is looking pretty good to, for $$$/value. Mr. Crow fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Dec 22, 2014 |
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Dec 22, 2014 16:34
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Mr. Crow posted:I need to get a new cable modem (docsis 3.0); this was my old one are there better alternatives now? Everyone seems to love the 6120/6121's successor the 6141 (http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6141-DOCSIS/dp/B00AJHDZSI/)
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Dec 22, 2014 17:24
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With good reason, it's small, works with most cable services, is less than $100 ($88 Amazon price) and it runs fast and is future-proof up to 340 Mbps. I own one and it's already paid for itself in terms of rental fees I'm not paying to the cable company. Whatever outages I've experienced have always been related to the service, not the modem itself. When Time Warner gave many of its customers a free speed upgrade, the 6141 automagically got the bump with no fuss, no muss. If your router is gigabit capable, and you have a proper gigabit cable, it will connect at gigabit speed. The only possible critique I have is that it runs a little warm but that's it. Binary Badger fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Dec 22, 2014 |
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Dec 22, 2014 18:02
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jonathan posted:I have a provider modem/router (Telus Optik which is TV over IP/ADSL) with wifi in the basement, it's wired in down there. Upper floor, opposite corner of house I have fairly poor Wifi reception. At this corner I have an RJ45 jack coming out of a TV set top box, and get 100mbit speeds from it. I figure I need something that I can hook to this port to boost wifi strength up here. Can 2 different devices operate on the same SSID to broadcast a wireless signal ? I need everything to see each other on my network as I have a plex server, a nas, and several android xbmc boxes around the house, Get a new wireless router and then do the following: - log into your existing router and write down the SSID (wireless network name) and the security key. You need exact spelling and punctuation for this. Make note of what channel it's currently broadcasting on. Write down what IP address your existing router uses and what range the DHCP works over (192.168.1.2-100 or 192.168.1.100 - 254 something like that) - plug an ethernet cable into your new router and then into a computer to program it. do not hook it into the network yet - Program your new router as follows: == WAN/Internet: doesn't matter == Uncheck the DHCP server. You want it disabled. == LAN IP: 192.168.1.2 (assuming your original router has a DHCP range that doesn't include .2 If it does, put this router at .254) == SSID: same as your original router == WPA key: same as your original router == Channel: must be different. Preferably turn on "auto" channel. - Plug the cable from the wall into one of the LAN ports of the router. - Take a piece of tape and put it over the Internet/WAN port so you don't ever use it. Your computer should now connect up to the network it already knows about (same as your downstairs one) but with a ton more signal. You have turned your fancy new wireless router into a wireless bridge. Networking and DHCP will come from the main router in your house so you'll be on the same network but whenever you move downstairs and get good signal again you should automatically hop on over to the stronger signal. This can get weird if the signal is nearly equal - in those spots you may thrash between the two sites but hopefully that won't happen much.
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Dec 22, 2014 19:14
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CuddleChunks posted:Get a new wireless router and then do the following: Thanks a ton. I'm glad I asked in here because this answer makes the most sense to me yet I didn't find anything similar from google.
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Dec 22, 2014 19:48
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So, quick question now that I have my wireless network set up. Are moderate ping spikes somewhat normal? Wireless isn't perfect after all. Basically, in the course of running a few hundred pings to my router over my wifi connection, the majority is <1ms, but out of 300 pings I'll get maybe 6 or so that are 100-200ms. I do a lot of gaming so ping is a concern, but I don't want to tear my hair out over this if it's just unavoidable to some extent.
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Dec 23, 2014 01:50
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