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Of course, some monitors with soft switches may not remember their power on state when their power is interrupted. You'd do good to at least verify that your monitor comes back on when unplugged. Well, just in case, at least. I know the one monitor I had with a broken power switch that I had to shove a ball of aluminum foil into and fiddle with a screwdriver every time I wanted to toggle the contacts of the power switch, at least it remembered its power on state between being unplugged, even over long term, as in days/weeks. FAKE EDIT: Reread your post, saw that you already bought the switch device. As posted above, it shouldn't harm your monitor, at least as long as you don't toggle the power in rapid succession or something like that.
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Dec 5, 2014 03:04
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Sounds good, thanks. And yes everything functions as expected just wanted to make sure I wasn't inadvertantly messing anything up.
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Dec 5, 2014 06:53
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Different kind of hardware, but didn't see a thread on these and thought I'd post in here and see if anyone knows anything. I'm looking into getting an Android HDMI stick for my Sony projection HDTV, and I need something that can do color correction. The Sony's about fifteen years old, and the blue LEDs have dimmed- the whole screen has a faint green hue to it that the on-TV color controls can't get rid of. However, when I hook a PC up to it, I'm able to use the GPU manufacturer's software to color-correct perfectly- it's really nice, if a bit dim. So basically I'm looking for an inexpensive little HDMI stick or box that'll be able to run an app that color-corrects while simultaneously playing videos, games, etc. Being easy to put a custom ROM on would be a plus.
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Dec 5, 2014 07:36
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So just to make sure, sticks of RAM rated at 1.6 volts (like the G.Skill Ares series at 2133mhz speed) are okay for Z97 boards, right?
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Dec 6, 2014 17:11
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Touchfuzzy posted:So just to make sure, sticks of RAM rated at 1.6 volts (like the G.Skill Ares series at 2133mhz speed) are okay for Z97 boards, right?
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Dec 6, 2014 17:24
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I don't know if this is the right thread to ask in, but I'm looking for a pair of decent outdoor IP webcams. My fiance and I have some livestock and they like to huddle up next to our barn. I already have two drops available to use, I'm just finding it difficult to find decent cameras that will last longer than a year or so outdoors. I planned on building a shroud to keep them safe from most of the weather. I live in NE Kansas so heat and humidity may play a factor in longevity. Budget is around $150 per camera.
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Dec 6, 2014 18:39
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I posted this in the Monitor thread as well, but figured more eyes couldn't hurt. I just got an ASUS VN248 IPS monitor, and for some reason streaming video is super choppy on it. I moved the browser window back and and forth from my TN panel to the new IPS and the IPS looks like it's dropping every other frame. The hell is going on? Also I can't seem to get it anywhere near as bright as my TN panel (also an ASUS). Is this common among IPS displays? Schiavona fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Dec 6, 2014 |
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Dec 6, 2014 19:58
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I posted this in the Mac Hardware and SSD thread, but I figured more exposure wouldn't hurt. I'm thing of putting an SSD in mmy Early 2011 15" MBP. I saw that the 850 PRO is the best for the Mac in the SSD thread, but it's more expensive per gigabyte. Should I go with the Samsung 840 EVO 500gb or the 850 PRO 256gb? Also, will the nvidia chipset or whatever be a problem? Also, what software or settings should I change to ensure the SSD will maintain its performance? All I know so far is enable TRIM and overprovision 20%. Thanks in advanced!
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Dec 6, 2014 20:51
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I'm looking for a good 14" 1920x1080 IPS screen to replace my current one for my Thinkpad T440. I know the screen compatibility requirements for my T440 but I'm unsure of what brand or specific models would be good. I'm based in the UK. Are there any recommendations or advice? EDIT: I've read online that LG have poor IPS displays. I'm hearing good things about AU Oprtonics though. Titor fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Dec 7, 2014 |
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Dec 7, 2014 00:16
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slightpirate posted:I don't know if this is the right thread to ask in, but I'm looking for a pair of decent outdoor IP webcams. My fiance and I have some livestock and they like to huddle up next to our barn. I already have two drops available to use, I'm just finding it difficult to find decent cameras that will last longer than a year or so outdoors. I planned on building a shroud to keep them safe from most of the weather. I live in NE Kansas so heat and humidity may play a factor in longevity. Budget is around $150 per camera. I'd post this in the Surveillance Camera thread in Ask/Tell. They seem to know everything about cameras there.
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Dec 7, 2014 04:24
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So twice now I've been kicked out of Arkham Origins with the message that my Nvidia Display Driver stopped responding. I have an Asus GTX970, and the highest temperature it's been is 68 C, so I don't think it's overheating or anything. The card is completely on stock settings, and this has only happened playing Arkham Origins, but I haven't really played any other games that push the card (FFXIII and MGR). The GPU use is basically 100% when playing Arkham. Any ideas on what could be causing this?
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Dec 7, 2014 14:28
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I posted about a month ago that I was upgrading my hard disk from a 320GB to a 2TB drive, and was recommended to use Macrium Reflect to clone the old disk, then set the BIOS to boot from the new disk. At this point I've got the new hardware installed, I have the program ready to copy the data, and I just now happened to think: is cloning the old disk simply going to create a 320GB partition on the new disk that is nearly out of space? Would imaging the old disk instead of cloning be a better option? What's the difference? I've never had to deal with partitioning a hard disk before, and have no practical need that I can think of to divide up the drive--I back up my system to an external drive and Windows 7 is the only OS I plan on running.
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Dec 8, 2014 03:37
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Reflect can expand it for you. If you don't choose that, Windows Disk Management can expand it for you.
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Dec 8, 2014 03:45
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Can I (safely) run a 12v DC ATX power supply off a 12v lead on a larger ATX power supply?
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Dec 8, 2014 04:22
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Any recommendations for UPS's? I'm looking for something to put behind my PCs so they don't hardboot whenever the power blinks. If I happen to be sitting right there when the power goes out I want to be able to shut them down gracefully, but I don't plan on actually using them off battery power for any great length of time. Any well-received brands/models I can be on the lookout for?
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Dec 9, 2014 01:22
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Takes No Damage posted:Any recommendations for UPS's? I'm looking for something to put behind my PCs so they don't hardboot whenever the power blinks. If I happen to be sitting right there when the power goes out I want to be able to shut them down gracefully, but I don't plan on actually using them off battery power for any great length of time. Any well-received brands/models I can be on the lookout for? Cyberpower, Tripp-Lite, and APC are pretty good. I've got 4 Cyberpower units, an APC and a couple of Belkins (they're awful). The main things to look at when buying one is getting one with sine-wave output so that it works well with modern computer power supplies. There have been a few posts about it that I can't seem to find, but the basic rule with UPSes and modern computer equipment is to either get a sine-wave unit or get a unit that can handle at least twice the power draw of the equipment hooked up to it. The other thing is that the rated volt-amps (VA) that gets listed on the UPS is never the same as the amount of Watts it can handle, despite the fact that Watts = Amperes * Volts. There should be a separate listing for estimated power output in watts on the product page. For my main PCs I use 1000VA and 1200VA cyberpower units. For the NAS and networking equipment I'm using 685VA units. The big ones are 8 and 11 years old and I replace the batteries every 2-3 years. The smaller ones are newer. They all have AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulation, it steps low power up as well as just being a battery backup). If I had to buy a new one I'd likely get: http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192/ in whatever size seemed appropriate. Definitely shop around because there are often sales on UPSes. Look for free shipping or buy at a store also because they're really heavy because of the lead in the batteries. They're sold in consumer electronics stores like best buy but also office supply stores like Staples which usually have good deals on shipping and often $ off $amount coupons and the like. Rexxed fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Dec 9, 2014 |
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Dec 9, 2014 02:06
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Any suggestions for cage nuts? Finally getting a used rack at work to replace a table and lovely shelving and it never occurred to me that there would be different sizes and brands. Right now I'm looking at StarTech on Amazon.
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Dec 9, 2014 04:22
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Am I correct in my assumption that the read error rate for this drive indicates current/imminent failure, or am I just way more pessimistic than CDI?
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Dec 9, 2014 17:21
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redstormpopcorn posted:Am I correct in my assumption that the read error rate for this drive indicates current/imminent failure, or am I just way more pessimistic than CDI?  than even pessimism. The ultraDMA CRC error might indicate a bad SATA cable but beyond that there's really nothing that stands out. All Seagate drives have 'high' seek error figures compared to other OEMs even when they're working fine which can look a bit strange if you're not used to it.
future ghost fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Dec 9, 2014 |
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Dec 9, 2014 19:11
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cisco privilege posted:Unless you have a good reason to assume the drive is dying, such as horrible performance or weird noises, then it's really more Right on, I dropped by the office after-hours yesterday to pick something up and my workstation greeted me with a hearty "Hard drive not found!" so it spooked me a bit. It's booted fine since then, but I think I'll swap the cable just in case. Thanks for the second opinion. 
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Dec 9, 2014 19:50
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Hey folks. I'm currently trying to get my ducks in a row to upgrade to a 64bit OS. My main board+CPU is pretty old, but it's 64 Bit compatible. But now I read that Win 8.1 won't run in 64 bit if you have an old AMD Athlon X2 64, because those don't have CMPXCHG16b. I googled a bit, and one source said that later version of that CPU do have it, and that you can figure out what you have with the version number. I grabbed CPU-Z to check the stats of my CPU, but I'm unsure what to do with them. I guess what it breaks down to is that I need to figure out if I lucked out and can keep it, or if I need to raise some cash to also get a new board+CPU
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Dec 9, 2014 20:22
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Tin Tim posted:I guess what it breaks down to is that I need to figure out if I lucked out and can keep it, or if I need to raise some cash to also get a new board+CPU
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Dec 9, 2014 20:33
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Here's the CPU-Z The board is "EliteGroup MB Elite GF7050M-M 2.0 AM2 mATX Phenom" which nobody probably has heard off Alereon posted:Overall, even if it can work it is likely much smarter to just pick up an Intel Core i5 CPU and compatible motherboard, since that gets you the full performance of a new machine.
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Dec 9, 2014 21:29
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Tin Tim posted:Here's the CPU-Z
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Dec 9, 2014 22:12
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Alereon posted:Your CPU supports Windows 8.1 but your motherboard does not. You are using an nForce 630a chipset from 2007, and nVidia shut down that unit years ago. You can try it with the built-in drivers but given how ancient that system is I can't imagine it working very well. Welp, then it's settled. Gonna have to free some cash to get a new board and CPU. Not much point in trying it any other way. Thanks for the help!
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Dec 9, 2014 22:21
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Is there any reason not to use RAID 1 on a Z97 chipset w/ IRST, or would it be better just a buy a cheap PCI card and use that? It's just for two storage HDDs, the OS is on an 840 EVO.
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Dec 14, 2014 17:21
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Hace posted:Is there any reason not to use RAID 1 on a Z97 chipset w/ IRST, or would it be better just a buy a cheap PCI card and use that? It's just for two storage HDDs, the OS is on an 840 EVO.
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Dec 14, 2014 18:28
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Not sure whether or not to post this problem in here or the musician's lounge since it's an audio problem, but basically these headphones I have are kinda hosed up if I try to use them with my audio interface. They're just some $70 sennheiser in ear headphones I picked up from a store while I was out since I'd lost the crappy earbuds that came with my phone (they sound alright though) and they work fine with my phone, PS vita, PS4, etc, but if I try to use them with my audio interface it's as if both the left and right channels try to play back simultaneously in each ear. But, here's the weird part, if I hold down the mic mute button on the headphones, the sound plays back perfectly. I've tested this by playing around with the balance sliders in windows, if I'm holding down the button both stereo channels are separated correctly, but as soon as I let go the stereo channels gently caress up again. Any idea what the problem is? Is it a simple compatibility thing? Should I just tape down the mute button? None of the sound settings in windows seem to help.
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Dec 15, 2014 07:49
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cat doter posted:Not sure whether or not to post this problem in here or the musician's lounge since it's an audio problem, but basically these headphones I have are kinda hosed up if I try to use them with my audio interface. Audio interfaces don't like headphones made for phones etc with in line controls on them in general. I don't know if there is a solution though sorry.
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Dec 15, 2014 12:01
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Stux posted:Audio interfaces don't like headphones made for phones etc with in line controls on them in general. I don't know if there is a solution though sorry. I figured that was it. I've got a pair of sennheiser 280 pros but they're uncomfortable so I was hoping to use the in ear headphones occasionally. I've just taped down the button for now.
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Dec 15, 2014 14:30
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You could definitely solder together an adapter cable with the mic completely disconnected. That wouldn't be hard after you've figured out what pin, tip or ring is what.
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Dec 15, 2014 16:25
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Flipperwaldt posted:You could definitely solder together an adapter cable with the mic completely disconnected. That wouldn't be hard after you've figured out what pin, tip or ring is what. I think you can also buy similar adaptors, a friend had an issue with headphones with inline controls introducing noise and pops into the signal and got one to stop it.
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Dec 15, 2014 23:14
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Stux posted:I think you can also buy similar adaptors, a friend had an issue with headphones with inline controls introducing noise and pops into the signal and got one to stop it. I'm a bit hesitant to recommend just buying an adapter at random, if that's really the case. E: This insanity:  Sleeve should be ground always, dickheads. Flipperwaldt fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Dec 15, 2014 |
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Dec 15, 2014 23:44
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Flipperwaldt posted:Shopping around and reading reviews for in ear headphones with a microphone gave me the impression there are multiple standards for the pinout, maybe? Especially if there's a button involved. There were multiple reviews mentioning oh, this doesn't work with my either iphone or android and things like that. Same thing for what the manufacturers put on the packaging. Like, on some it's suitable for iphone, on some it says for smartphone, all within the same brand. Yeah you'd have to get one compatible with the headphones sorry, on phone right now and can't really look up what would be needed exactly, just that they are available at least for some headsets so it's worth having a look around. edit: a cursory search doesn't come up with anything particularly relevant to sennheisers so it might be the case that it'll have to be done manually Stux fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Dec 15, 2014 |
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Dec 15, 2014 23:47
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When I tried to boot up my tower today, everything spun up for less than a second, then shut off. It would repeat this process as long as the power was on. It did sound like the heads on the HDDs were searching, but I'm not sure if that had to do with the problem or if that's just what they do when they first get power. It finally started up, but I want to fix this ASAP. My first inclination is to say PSU. It didn't POST, it didn't get to BIOS, it seems like the power just wasn't consistently available. Does that sound right?
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Dec 16, 2014 04:49
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22 Eargesplitten posted:When I tried to boot up my tower today, everything spun up for less than a second, then shut off. It would repeat this process as long as the power was on. It did sound like the heads on the HDDs were searching, but I'm not sure if that had to do with the problem or if that's just what they do when they first get power. It finally started up, but I want to fix this ASAP. My first inclination is to say PSU. It didn't POST, it didn't get to BIOS, it seems like the power just wasn't consistently available. Does that sound right? It could be a few things. Mine does that on occasion, I have to do a static release (unplug it, hold down the power for 30 seconds) and it boots fine. If it's a continuous problem, then you may want to look into the PSU.
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Dec 16, 2014 04:51
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Also try removing attached USB peripherals, such as powered hubs. Someone earlier had a machine that wouldn't power on because of one of those. The cheaper ones tend to send power back upstream.
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Dec 16, 2014 05:19
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Hey folks! So the fan on my trusty old Thinkpad X220 died on me yesterday, and now I get "Fan Error" on boot, making my laptop an expensive paperweight. I'm thus looking for a replacement fan, and I'm searching for a good online shop with cheap shipping to Europe. Googling didn't bring up anything worthwhile, and I'm not exactly keen on buying some used part from ebay... Thanks for any info!
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Dec 16, 2014 10:44
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The stuff on eBay is fine, I get replacements from there all the time (including laptop fans and the like). Short of ordering from Lenovo, your best bet is $10 to $30 and some patience for shipping times.
Rukus fucked around with this message at 12:20 on Dec 16, 2014 |
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Dec 16, 2014 12:17
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Not sure if this has been covered: I'm swapping my old CPU/Mobo/Ram in for an Asus Z97A/i5 4690k/8GB Ram, into my existing case, keeping my existing SSD and most everything else as they aren't that old. With Windows 8.1, this should be fairly straightforward without requiring a reformat correct? Windows/BIOS are in AHCI mode in my current setup, so I should just have to boot up, switch to AHCI mode in bios (if that not defaulted nowdays on motherboards?), select my boot drive, and go right? Possibly have to reactivate? And if I reactivate, do I just have to call microsoft to explain the situation?
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Dec 16, 2014 18:11
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