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Im looking to replace the speakers in my 1999 Isuzu Rodeo. Im a complete novice and am only really replacing them because only the right front speaker really works and even then not very well. Im looking at crutchfield and all the front door speakers say "modified fit", what does that mean exactly?
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Nov 7, 2014 23:25
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KoB posted:Im looking to replace the speakers in my 1999 Isuzu Rodeo. Im a complete novice and am only really replacing them because only the right front speaker really works and even then not very well. Hard to say, it could be a few different modifications required. They technically use that to note that there is a permanent change made to the vehicle. Crutchfield is very good on customer service so I would just pick the ones you like and then call them before ordering and ask what exactly has to be done to get XX speaker to fit. They also send you spacers, wiring adapters, and instructions specific for your vehicle when you buy from them.
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Nov 8, 2014 04:20
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I have a 2006 Subaru Forester XT. Stock system is a 2DIN 6-CD changer, but it has a 7-channel output(4 Door Speakers, 2 Tweeters, Sub) with an integrated amplifier. I want to replace it to get AUX-IN and/or Bluetooth. I really don't care about any other feature. Is there a head unit I could buy that's a drop in replacement, i.e. I don't have to worry about buying a separate amp for the sub? Chuu fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Nov 10, 2014 |
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Nov 10, 2014 05:40
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Chuu posted:I have a 2006 Subaru Forester XT. Stock system is a 2DIN 6-CD changer, but it has a 7-channel output(4 Door Speakers, 2 Tweeters, Sub) with an integrated amplifier. I want to replace it to get AUX-IN and/or Bluetooth. I really don't care about any other feature. In short, no. Every head unit I've seen with an integrated amplifier only has up to 4 outputs. Are you SURE the amplifier is integrated in to the head unit? In most cases with a setup like that it'll have an amplifier hidden off somewhere outside of the head unit.
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Nov 10, 2014 21:58
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MikeyTsi posted:In short, no. Every head unit I've seen with an integrated amplifier only has up to 4 outputs. Very sure it's integrated, but it's a pretty weak sub. It's something like a 6" or 8" (basically a glorified woofer) and the amp I believe is a 65W amp. Really, if I could find a car audio shop I trust I wouldn't mind throw some money at them to do the upgrade. There are a ton of kits to fit an aftermarket 8" sub in place of the stock one, and have them upgrade the Head Unit and maybe speakers at the same time. I have no idea how to find a good car audio shop though, because where I am (Chicago) the website of most of the ones I see are definitely marketing to yobs.
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Nov 11, 2014 06:44
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Chuu posted:Very sure it's integrated, but it's a pretty weak sub. It's something like a 6" or 8" (basically a glorified woofer) and the amp I believe is a 65W amp. This stuff really isn't hard to do yourself, the most difficult part is deciding where to put the amp/sub and running a power line through the firewall for it. The headunit itself is typically a really easy swap with a mounting kit and a harness adapter, and you can just pick up speakers that will fit in the stock locations so you don't have to do any modifications there.
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Nov 11, 2014 09:53
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MikeyTsi posted:This stuff really isn't hard to do yourself, the most difficult part is deciding where to put the amp/sub and running a power line through the firewall for it. The headunit itself is typically a really easy swap with a mounting kit and a harness adapter, and you can just pick up speakers that will fit in the stock locations so you don't have to do any modifications there. This, don't worry about the stock stuff so much if you are replacing it. The only caveat would be keeping the factory speakers if they are not 4 Ohm (most head units are only rated for 4 Ohm on the internal amp) or if the factory amp is not part of the head unit and is located elsewhere. You want the wires from the harness behind the stereo to route straight to the speaker locations unless you plan to add an aftermarket amp, and then you can put the aftermarket amp where ever the speaker leads originate. If you buy an aftermarket stereo from a place like crutchfield, they will send you the appropriate harness adapter, same with ordering speakers from them. You will lose the feed to the subwoofer since there is no amp channel for that, but really you will want to wire an amp and sub for that purpose anyway. The tweeters in the dash will be a no go, but you should really consider getting an aftermarket pair of component speakers with their own crossover. You would then wire them off the front left and right channels on the amp and the tweeter would take its feed from the aftermarket cross over. It may all sound complicated, but it really is not that complicated. I have no affiliation with Crutchfield, but they definitely have good customer service and will do whatever they can to help you understand and install whatever they sell.
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Nov 11, 2014 13:50
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Aflicted posted:Hard to say, it could be a few different modifications required. They technically use that to note that there is a permanent change made to the vehicle. Crutchfield is very good on customer service so I would just pick the ones you like and then call them before ordering and ask what exactly has to be done to get XX speaker to fit. They also send you spacers, wiring adapters, and instructions specific for your vehicle when you buy from them. Every single speaker says that I'll need to "fabricate a speaker mounting bracket or spacer." Does that mean there probably just arent speakers for my car anymore?
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Nov 11, 2014 22:01
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KoB posted:Every single speaker says that I'll need to "fabricate a speaker mounting bracket or spacer." No, it means Isuzu used either a bizarro-size speaker or a bizarro mounting pattern and you're going to have to adapt for that when buying standard speakers. It's not uncommon. Vehicle manufacturers don't give half a crap about aftermarket fitment because, hey, it's aftermarket. They just want to plug a speaker-like object into a speaker-like hole in a panel—given the choice between re-engineering a panel to follow standards and ordering up parts engineered to fit their weird spaces, the automakers will always, always, always choose the latter. It's zero-effort. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Nov 12, 2014 |
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Nov 12, 2014 00:32
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I had a isuzu trooper from 1996 and had similar speakers. Take the cover off, there is usually enough room to mount a 6.5 and make your own holes.
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Nov 12, 2014 04:26
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Any recommendations on a good double din iphone 6 compatible stereo for my old hooptie? I have one but it's probably 8+ years old now. I'd like to be able to plug in my phone to charge and be able to use it for spotify, etc. I guess I don't really need bluetooth since I can just charge it through the device, ideally. If it could display apple maps on the screen instead of it's own GPS that would be cool too. Also being able to hook up my old ipod would be cool. I'd like to just find one I like and buy it through a local vendor so I can both support them and not have them gauge me on worker fees. (Would like it professionally installed) or I may just buy it online and have someone on craigslist do it.
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Nov 17, 2014 08:52
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Chuu posted:I have a 2006 Subaru Forester XT. Stock system is a 2DIN 6-CD changer, but it has a 7-channel output(4 Door Speakers, 2 Tweeters, Sub) with an integrated amplifier. I want to replace it to get AUX-IN and/or Bluetooth. I really don't care about any other feature. Generally, front tweeters are run off the same channel as the front speakers (in your case, mids), with a basic crossover hidden somewhere. Not always, but generally. I have no idea how on how the sub is run on yours though.
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Nov 18, 2014 07:06
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So going backwards from touch screens to something more "basic" in the new car. I'm leaning to pioneer again. Mostly because I've always had the best luck with them, and I prefer the sound in most cases. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130DX460BT/Pioneer-DEH-X4600BT.html I'm thinking this. I "NEED' bluetooth audio. Id LIKE hands free. Plus I can get 2 sets of 6X8s which are bound to be better than the stock ones in this marquis I bought (They do sound new though). 168 bucks or something shipped. Anyways. My question is mostly bluetooth related. Is any brand better than others right now? I mean, My rental Chevy had bluetooth and it even controlled google music. Would love for it to be able to read the track titles and maybe even change tracks like you'd think it could. I'm not 100% dead set on pioneer, And my installer buddy is pushing me at kenwood (He loves his apparently). So, Around 100-150 bucks, With Good media streaming, and "acceptable" call quality. I'm also not opposed to ordering from somewhere like onlinecarstereo.com (Ive ordered poo poo from them, they tend to rock). But with that deal on CF right now, its hard to throw together something similar. And to ask. Yes eventually I'm going to run a sub or two. Most likely 1 12 at most. So sub control I guess matters to some extent. Also I'm not opposed to touch screens or double dins. Its just going into a Grand Marquis that id rather not have to cut up anything to get it to fit.
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Nov 19, 2014 00:07
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In my experience, Google Music responds to standard media controls over Bluetooth, regardless of the controller. My experience is based off my Note 3 and the girlfriend's Galaxy S4 on several Bluetooth speakers and my Helsinki receiver in my Explorer.
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Nov 19, 2014 16:22
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I'm running a higher end version of that generation stereo (DEH-X8600BH). The included microphone, to put it nicely, sucks. I had to mount mine to my visor to get people to hear me decently. Beyond that, Bluetooth works flawlessly. I had the same issue with my last Pioneer, they just seem to use crappy microphones. I will say I had issues with my old Pioneer and my old Galaxy Nexus playing nice - the phone would lock up constantly or reboot when I shut off the stereo or engine, on stock firmware and 3rd party. Google Music, Slacker, Pandora, etc all respond to the Bluetooth commands, and at least on mine, the stereo is capable of displaying the artist/song/album (mine can be set to show song name, song name + artist, or song name + artist + album - I keep it on the last of those). I haven't tried any of the Pandora integration, or even tried plugging anything into the USB cable (not sure if the one you're looking at has one, but mine has a rear USB input and a 6 ft long USB cable with a female end that I tossed in the glove box - in case a friend wants to bring a flash drive full of music). As a delivery driver, it's nice being able to fire up Slacker and Google Maps at the same time - Maps interrupts long enough to inform me of my next turn. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:55 on Nov 19, 2014 |
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Nov 19, 2014 16:51
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Oh yeah I forgot that's the best part about blueteeth, having your phone tell you when you gotta make a turn when you're too focused on jamming out. But it can get kinda annoying when your phone beeps and boops all the time for dumb poo poo, dimming your music each time. I use Sony Smart Actions (I don't even have a Sony device  ) to automatically detect when my phone is connected to "Blaupunkt", to turn off WiFi, and turn the phone on vibrate; and have it all undone when "Blaupunkt" disconnects.
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Nov 19, 2014 18:26
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Wasabi the J posted:Oh yeah I forgot that's the best part about blueteeth, having your phone tell you when you gotta make a turn when you're too focused on jamming out. Have you ever used tasker? Sounds like they are similar apps, but I have not messed with the Sony one.
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Nov 19, 2014 18:43
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Wasabi the J posted:Oh yeah I forgot that's the best part about blueteeth, having your phone tell you when you gotta make a turn when you're too focused on jamming out. This isn't surprising, Blaupunkt has been known to use Sony technology. Way back when I had a Sony XR430 tape deck that was connected to a Blaupunkt 10-disc changer.
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Nov 24, 2014 08:42
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MikeyTsi posted:This isn't surprising, Blaupunkt has been known to use Sony technology. I have changed Android apps, from Sony Smart Actions to Trigger. Works way better for my needs.
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Nov 24, 2014 17:49
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I am about to pull the trigger on this Kenwood KDC-BT362U for my 2007 Honda Fit. I chose based on the advice in the OP so I am hoping this is a good choice. We wanted a stereo with line-in and USB, and this one can pipe the sound to all six speakers which was an unexpected bonus. Am I overlooking anything or is this a good buy? Edit: Can car stereos handle VBR mp3s? Corla Plankun fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Dec 4, 2014 |
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Dec 4, 2014 21:06
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Need help on a diagnosis. I recently re-did the audio in my 07 Tacoma. I had a couple minor issues but everything more or less worked out until now. It started as intermittent boosting of one speaker and adding a lot of static. It has now become permanant. I can fade to the other speaker, though it is nonexistent unless I add volume. I am taking my doors apart now to check connections, I've gone over my grounds and re-done them to no avail. Any ideas goons?
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Dec 8, 2014 22:38
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Maksimus54 posted:Need help on a diagnosis. I recently re-did the audio in my 07 Tacoma. I had a couple minor issues but everything more or less worked out until now. It started as intermittent boosting of one speaker and adding a lot of static. It has now become permanant. I can fade to the other speaker, though it is nonexistent unless I add volume. I am taking my doors apart now to check connections, I've gone over my grounds and re-done them to no avail. Any ideas goons? Are the speakers run off of an external amp? Internal HU amp? Factory wiring to the speakers? Is there an adapter for the HU to the factory harness? If using an amp do you have low level inputs feeding it, or is there a line level converter in place? Did you crimp or solder the connections? Need to be able to narrow down whether the issue is on the source or the power side of the system. I have seen this happen when a line converter was bad, short on the wiring, bad RCA lead for a low level input, short in the amp, poor wire connections, etc... With a few more details from above we can point you in a better direction.
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Dec 8, 2014 23:51
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Sorry I meant to throw in more detail. Running a pioneer AVH-X5600BHS to a pioneer PRS-D4200 that runs some hybrid audio Imagine 6.5's. I have a subwoofer as well that is not installed yet. I used a harness kit to avoid hacking everything up. I have an e-brake bypass, steering wheel controls and a backup camera attached to the HU. I checked the connections to the speakers and they are solid. RCA's are firmly in and wiring to the amp has been checked and re-torqued. Grounds were re-done as well today. Fuses are good as well.
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Dec 9, 2014 00:45
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Maksimus54 posted:Sorry I meant to throw in more detail. OK, do you have an extra set of RCAs? If not you can actually just swap the leads on the amplifier. If the cable is faulty internally then the issue should flip sides when you do this. That will rule out the RCA cable. I have actually had one crap out and it looked totally normal but gave weird issues like you are getting. Also, to rule out an issue with the HU, get a 3.5mm to RCA cable and hook the RCA cable to the amp. Use your phone, mp3 player, walkman to supply some source for the amp. If everything plays normally through the amp and the RCA cable checks out as tested above, then you have an issue with the HU. If all of the connections check out then we are really looking at a hardware issue or an internal wire short. Are you using all four channels on the amp? If you are bridging them then lets try just running each speaker off a single channel and moving them around. IE if you are running the fronts off of channel 1 and 2 then move them to 3 and 4 and test. Make sure you use the same RCA cable and move it to the 3/4 connections (assuming you determined the cable was not at fault above) If everything works while driving the speakers on 3 and 4 then you probably have a fault on one of the 1/2 channels in the amp, or vice versa. If it makes no difference then we need to start looking at the cabling to the speakers and the speakers themselves. This means pulling them from their locations and using a known pair of good speaker wire to hook them up to the amp. No need to mount them or anything, at this point we just want them to play clear at the requested volume. If they still sound like poo poo and you have confirmed the other stuff above is good to go, then your speaker took a poo poo. You can confirm this by moving it from one channel to the other and seeing if the issue follows it. I've seen speakers fault internally as well. If the speakers work normally with the known good cable then hooray you have some poo poo wiring to the speaker locations and need to rerun it. I probably missed some points here, but you should be able to run through this pretty easy and narrow down where the fault is in the system.
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Dec 9, 2014 01:29
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Hello guys I got a question about my 2004 Buick LeSabre 3800 v6 series 2. I just hooked up my new aftermarket subs/amp/deck/steering wheel controls/and the harness with the chimes. And of coarse the car wont start. The dash will say "Unknown Driver" for a few seconds right after you click the key to the on position. all the dash lights work, but no power to radio or interior/exterior lights. I believe this is some retarded security feature on the car. Google points to restarting the security system which I tried to do but no luck. Important note: Several weeks ago I had the same issue and took it into a shop, they fixed the issue for about 120$ claiming it was a fuse box issue. But before I call to bitch at them I want to see if anyone can help me out.
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Dec 9, 2014 01:31
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There's no thread for car alarms so I figured there would be crossover here. I'm looking to get a two way alarm system. I don't want remote start but I need an engine kill switch, a hood sensor and proximity. I'm also interested in a gps tracking thing if that's a thing. I know an alarm can't deter a professional thief, but around my neighborhood there's always kids checking car handles and popping windows so I'd like to deter the kids. I'm thinking a Viper but I honestly have no idea. My old truck had one that was quite good, not too sensitive but if you bumped the windows or bumped it too hard it would give 2 separate warnings, then go ape poo poo, served me well. Can anyone share some wisdom? maniacripper fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Dec 15, 2014 |
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Dec 14, 2014 23:43
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maniacripper posted:There's no thread for car alarms so I figured there would be crossover here. Honestly, at this point I think it is more a question of nailing down your requirements, which you have, and finding something in the price point that meets those requirements. Most alarm systems you will see for sale are all made by Directed Electronics (directed.com) Viper and Clifford being the two big ones. As far as the responsiveness of the sensors go, that really has a lot to do with the quality of the installer setting the sensitivity and positioning of the sensors.
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Dec 15, 2014 01:44
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Aflicted posted:Honestly, at this point I think it is more a question of nailing down your requirements, which you have, and finding something in the price point that meets those requirements. Most alarm systems you will see for sale are all made by Directed Electronics (directed.com) Viper and Clifford being the two big ones. As far as the responsiveness of the sensors go, that really has a lot to do with the quality of the installer setting the sensitivity and positioning of the sensors. So if installers matter then its all hit or miss with places like Best Buy or national chains? I should probably just look for some of the better google/yelp rated audio/alarm places and talk to them in person. They way I'd like to do it is order all the stuff myself since it seems amazon lets the stuff out the door about half the price a lot of retail places want for the same stuff. That being the case some of the things (gps and hood sensor in particular) look like modular devices you buy sperate and it'd be helpful to have a resource to see what adapters you'd need to get a setup how I'd want it in my model truck, then find an installer who knows what they're doing to put it all in. maniacripper fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Dec 15, 2014 |
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Dec 15, 2014 01:55
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maniacripper posted:So if installers matter then its all hit or miss with places like Best Buy or national chains? I should probably just look for some of the better google/yelp rated audio/alarm places and talk to them in person. Hit or miss in that it is really attention to detail. Most places that don't give a poo poo, will just stick them wherever they can and be done with it. Ordering online is generally going to be cheaper, but it may not pay off in the end if you are going to have someplace install it for you. Some shops won't install gear that wasn't purchased through them. Others may give a labor discount when buying through them that negates the online savings, etc... Your best bet for shopping the components and getting free advice while doing it, is going to be crutchfield.com. They provide good after sale support for customers installing the equipment. I am not sure about the alarm stuff, but for car audio equipment they provide the adapters and DIY instructions sheets free of charge, as well as phone tech support for the install and the product.
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Dec 15, 2014 02:40
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Yeah most shops will just add on the difference of savings to the installation fee
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Dec 16, 2014 09:34
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Is there a consensus on what the highest (audio) quality hardwired FM modulator is? They all seem to be about the same price (~$40) and I wouldn't mind mind spending more for something that sounds better. There is some discussion on the first page of this thread about how a "good" one is indistinguishable from CD quality, but I'm just looking for a bit of guidance on finding what is "good." There is an Audiovox one that seems to have good reviews on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009V2XX) but I know that most people aren't very critical of sound quality. Are there any AI-approved options? If not, I suppose I'll just do the Audiovox.
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Dec 16, 2014 10:00
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Raluek posted:Is there a consensus on what the highest (audio) quality hardwired FM modulator is? They all seem to be about the same price (~$40) and I wouldn't mind mind spending more for something that sounds better. There is some discussion on the first page of this thread about how a "good" one is indistinguishable from CD quality, but I'm just looking for a bit of guidance on finding what is "good." I think the OP was referring to the style that actually broadcast on the frequency rather 'injects' the signal through the antenna wiring. They used to be popular before most cars got bluetooth and aux in adapters, and they all pretty much were horrible. That Audiovox one is the other style that plugs inline with the antenna wiring and injects the signal there. It will work much better than the wireless broadcast style, but don't expect it to be fantastic by any means. It is shielded and looks like it blocks anything from the antenna coming in on the frequency it uses, but you are still dealing with whatever the quality is of the tuner in the deck, etc... That being said, if you want to keep the stock radio in something and are not concerned with having the best SQ possible, its a perfectly fine option. There are companies that will modify stock radios to add on functions, but I think the service is pretty pricey. I think forums user Eatmyspork actually just had this done in his Charger thread, so you might check with him and see who did it and approximate cost if you are interested.
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Dec 16, 2014 15:23
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Yeah I'm aware of the head unit modification options. I'm trying to avoid making modifications like that as it is something I'm considering as a gift for my dad, and neither he nor I are wild about swapping the whole headunit with something aftermarket. I was considering modifying the stock one but I think a hardwired modulator is a much better compromise, if the quality is not miserable. So you think the tuner is the largest source of noise, rather than the modulator? I hadn't considered that. I suppose the bandwidth in commercial FM is not conducive to getting the best sound quality ever, but some reviews of other hardwired modulators complained of quality below that of even a strong FM station. I'd like to avoid that if possible.
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Dec 16, 2014 15:31
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I think user experience can be attributed largely to the quality of the tuner, quality of the component, quality of the connections. The first can't be helped, the second is hit or miss since they are all coming from china and most are probably made on the same assembly line with a different label affixed to them. The last is the installer error, making sure the connections are snug, not resting metal on the chassis, etc... Poor quality, low volume levels etc can be attributed to the unit or the sensitivity of the tuner. The unit you are looking at has its own power feed etc, so as long as the components inside are functioning then it should be fine. I would def test it out before I put my dash back together though. Given your use case, I would give it a go. There are lots of variables at play in something like this so reviews have to be taken worth a grain of salt unless they universally say this unit is poo poo, and they don't. Edit: I just want to say etc... again.
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Dec 16, 2014 15:46
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Raluek posted:Yeah I'm aware of the head unit modification options. I'm trying to avoid making modifications like that as it is something I'm considering as a gift for my dad, and neither he nor I are wild about swapping the whole headunit with something aftermarket. I was considering modifying the stock one but I think a hardwired modulator is a much better compromise, if the quality is not miserable. The thing is, you're going to have to go through the trouble of tearing out the head unit to install this modulator anyway, and then you're 90% of the way to getting a new headunit, so why not just do that? Unless you've got a car that's doing weird poo poo with stereo integration or a really weird dash configuration (and this poo poo all has adapters now anyway), I think you'll ultimately be happier just going with a unit that has the features you're looking for native.
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Dec 16, 2014 23:01
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It's a modern Ford, with those little U-shaped tools to pop the radio out in an instant. I had bought one of those line in adapter pigtails for the CD changer plugs, but apparently this head unit is a special snowflake that doesn't work with those. In any case, it's not just a single DIN thing. If the modulator sounds like rear end I might consider putting in an aftermarket HU, but for now I'd rather not unless there are serious usability issues with the modulator. Aint nobody wants a blingy tacky blue-LED-having SONY XPLOD or whatever.
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Dec 16, 2014 23:51
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Raluek posted:Aint nobody wants a blingy tacky blue-LED-having SONY XPLOD or whatever. This. The only ones that don't seem like an acid trip in disguise to use are the Alpine and some of the pioneer units. If the unit is a non-standard size the fitment kits could also look totally out of place on the dash. I have an old Dodge Dakota with the super retarded chrysler 1.5 DIN sizing and hate to go with a single DIN deck and the gaudy adapter. This is incidentally the truck that I last had an RF modulator in a decade ago for a cd changer that has since been removed years ago when it broke. I have needs for line level outputs etc though so I'm probably going to have to deal with the single DIN aftermarket setup.
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Dec 16, 2014 23:57
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They're actually not that bad looking: But definitely look out of place. Not like putting a square radio in an oval taurus, but I'd still like to keep the factory one if I can.
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Dec 17, 2014 00:04
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Raluek posted:They're actually not that bad looking: That looks closer to a double DIN opening. The Dakota will be too narrow on either side for a pocket so its just going to get a half inch of off color plastic on either side. I have a line level - low level converter laying around from the WRX that I am going to use for the time being to see how it goes. The factory radio just has a tape deck so right now I have a tape adapter. I don't drive the thing much, its a spare vehicle that I inherited and put most of my effort and money into keeping it running and replacing old worn our bits. I could honestly get an input switcher and a bluetooth dongle and just hide it all behind the dash and go that route too, but at that point I might as well just go all in. I need to look more into other factory radios that fit the opening/harness and see what I can come up with.
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Dec 17, 2014 00:17
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STQTWBlFAv4 cooking eggs on amplifiers! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Af-9dID8c-E truckramrod fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Dec 17, 2014 |
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Dec 17, 2014 02:25
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