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lilljonas posted:Basically I want something sci-fi that looks like it could be an actual machine, not a humanoid flying robot with spiky edges. SR-71  That Maschinen Krieger stuff by Hasegawa is well liked by some around here. No Pun Intended posted:I've always liked the Akuyaku #1  Wow! I had no idea this was a thing.
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Jan 1, 2015 19:02
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Chillyrabbit posted:That tank is an anime tank, and personally I like to see those anime things brought to life. For that edelweiss it was 5400 yen. Off hand sci fi like things that might be modeled just look around for some sci fi anime shows and they probably built at least 1 model kit out of something from it. Aoshima made some FMP Arm Slaves a few years back but they're long out of production. Kotobukiya made a Laevetein a few months ago that you can probably still find. Bandai made the Cowboy Bebop Red Tail and Swordfish II years ago and re-released the Swordfish fairly recently. Bandai also currently has the Valkyries from Macross out and you should be able to find them on shelves somewhere. Kotobukiya is also doing Ghost in the Shell kits from SAC and Arise; they have the Tachikoma, the Logicoma, the Jigibachi helicopter, and the giant robot from the first couple of episodes of SAC (I forget the name on that one). Someone else (Wave?) did a Tachikoma and Uchikoma 10 years ago, good luck finding those. If you're looking for tanks, planes, and cars Tamiya has huge lines of all those. Gundam is the big kid on the plastic model block, and are probably as generally available as you would see toys like Hot Wheels and GI Joe in the USA. You will probably find other models in the same kinds of places you would find models of any kind in the USA. Come over to the gunpla thread, we talk about all kinds of Japanese models and there are plenty of people smarter than me there.
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Jan 1, 2015 20:56
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Tank nerd question: I'm looking at the top of the Jadgtiger, and one object on its roof is labeled Nahkampfwaffe, which translates as "close quarters weapon". Given that the other odd thing on the roof is a moveable gun sight, is the Nahkampfwaffe a mortar or something?
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Jan 2, 2015 00:04
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Without a picture to point out what you mean specifically, I'm going to take a guess that it's a port for firing a pistol or throwing grenades from.
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Jan 2, 2015 00:27
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If it's what I think it is, it's a port to attach a remotely activated S-mine to.
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Jan 2, 2015 00:31
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I don't have an airbrush, well not a working one anyways, any tips for painting crisp lines? I tried tape, which has always worked well for me when spraying but seems to gently caress bad and have paint bleed under when I brush on. I want to paint the curbs of my sidewalks a lighter gray and I've been slowly painting them by hand, it looks ok but absolutely has that hand-painted look to it. Does anyone have any tips beyond "paint more careful, touch up after" ? I figure once everything is weathered it will all blend. It's dirty concrete and stone not the crisp edges of a fighter jet.  
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Jan 2, 2015 00:35
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Baronjutter posted:I don't have an airbrush, well not a working one anyways, any tips for painting crisp lines? I tried tape, which has always worked well for me when spraying but seems to gently caress bad and have paint bleed under when I brush on. For crisp edges, the type of tape you use is important - I use Tamiya masking tape, it works very well. Second, you can 'seal' the edge of the tape after masking to get really crisp lines. You do this by painting the same color as the color you masked off, along the edge of the tape after it's placed. That makes the color that 'bleeds' under the tape be the same color as you just covered. Then after it dries, paint whatever the other color is. If it looks hand painted, then it's likely that you are using the paint too thick, and/or not sanding or buffing it properly, is my guess. There is a balance point somewhere between stupid overkill like I probably did on my ship, and slopping on a thick coat that covers everything. This was done using the mask then seal method, and hand painted using acrylic - the little bit of black seen at the bottom is actually me just not masking quite right, not due to paint bleed. The yellow ochre was painted first, let dry, masked, then I ran yellow ochre paint along the masking edge and let it dry before painting the black. The wider (i.e. bottom) yellow orchre band is approximately 3/8" from top to bottom to give you a sense of scale here. The 'jaggies' along the black/yellow line is from resizing the image from 6000x4000 down to 1200x900 using a mass resizer rather than a proper image manipulation software.  Both colors were painted using extremely thin paint applied in multiple coats and then sanded with progressively finer sanding paper between coats, finishing with using tissue paper (i.e. Kleenex) on the last two coats. The sanding progression went (approximately) 320 grit, 400, 600, 800, 1200 2x, 2000 2x, Tissue 2x. This was probably overkill, and I could have gone with a slightly thicker paint mix and fewer coats, but I didn't want to spend a bunch of time doing tests, so I went with a very conservative approach. The Locator fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Jan 2, 2015 |
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Jan 2, 2015 01:21
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I find the best masking tape you can use is automotive painting masking tape. It's nice and flexible so it'll go around curves, and it never bleeds under.
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Jan 2, 2015 01:37
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:I find the best masking tape you can use is automotive painting masking tape. It's nice and flexible so it'll go around curves, and it never bleeds under. Does is come in narrow widths, where do you find it, and have you had any problem with it pulling up paint from being too sticky?
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Jan 2, 2015 02:13
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Ensign Expendable posted:Without a picture to point out what you mean specifically, I'm going to take a guess that it's a port for firing a pistol or throwing grenades from. #7: 
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Jan 2, 2015 02:22
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This claims it's an s-mine port. E: here we go found the wiki page for it. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nahverteidigungswaffe The diagram in the photo matches your photo above.
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Jan 2, 2015 02:32
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The Locator posted:Does is come in narrow widths, where do you find it, and have you had any problem with it pulling up paint from being too sticky? Yeah, you can actually get in really narrow widths, as it's used for pinstriping as well. Typically it's sold anywhere that carries autobody repair items. You may not find it at the big box auto stores and general hardware stores, but the more specialized shops are sure to carry it. And I personally haven't had any issues with paint pull up, but I always try to keep the tape on for as short a time as possible. Any masking tape will have paint pull up if you leave it on for days. Edit: This is the sort of thing I use. You can usually get it down to 1/8" wide. http://3mcollision.com/products/masking/fine-line-masking-tape Bloody Hedgehog fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Jan 2, 2015 |
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Jan 2, 2015 03:09
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Raskolnikov38 posted:This claims it's an s-mine port. Cool, thanks. It somehow seems appropriate that the Jagdtiger would just fire grenades if enemy infantry were trying to swarm over it.
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Jan 2, 2015 04:13
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I've got some tamiya masking tape, works fantastic with my airbrush but not so perfect with brushing. I'll try the tips mentioned though, like painting the base colour on first for a seal! Is the auto-body tape cheaper than the tamiya stuff, I find I'm super stingy with it and try to re-use it over and over.
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Jan 2, 2015 06:58
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Baronjutter posted:I've got some tamiya masking tape, works fantastic with my airbrush but not so perfect with brushing. I'll try the tips mentioned though, like painting the base colour on first for a seal! Is the auto-body tape cheaper than the tamiya stuff, I find I'm super stingy with it and try to re-use it over and over. Quick search on Amazon says it's about the same or a little more expensive. 36 yards x 1/4" wide is just under $10, while the Tamiya 6mm tape is $12 for 3 x 18 yards. It's not expensive enough that I ever try to re-use it, as it doesn't stick very well once it's been used, at least not on wood. E: Also with the Tamiya tape I left the yellow color on my ship masked for 11 or 12 days while I was painting layers of black, and it came off without any problem or peeling issues of the yellow layer. I'll still probably try that 3m stuff at some point to see if it works better.
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Jan 2, 2015 07:09
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I kind of want to get in to this wooden ship thing, but I've never done it before. Plenty of other modeling, and wargaming. Is this a good kit for a beginner? It says "Junior" so I'm guessing so. It's also cheap.
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Jan 2, 2015 17:21
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Chillyrabbit posted:Just a relatively quick build of an airfix t-34-85 1:72 model.
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Jan 2, 2015 21:50
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Colonial Air Force posted:I kind of want to get in to this wooden ship thing, but I've never done it before. Plenty of other modeling, and wargaming. My gut reaction is.. no, for a couple reasons. 1) It's a solid hull kit with painted hull, which means you won't learn the construction process used in larger kits, so you won't really get a feel for whether or not you really like the hobby. Also some even really advanced model builders hate solid hulls as they can be incredibly difficult to get the correct final shape without accurate templates, which a 'junior' kit they claim can be completed in 8 hours is unlikely to have. 2) It's impossible to find any build-logs or even photo's of these kits finished, except ones that come from Constructo, so it's really difficult to tell what sort of stuff you actually get in the kit and what it looks like. From personal experience with their non-junior kits, I would expect the instructions to be badly translated to English, and very poor in general. They may actually be really good, but if they are, it seems like sites like MSW would have one or two of them at least, and I can't find anything, and I searched several ship-building sites. If you want a cheap kit that uses planking and good hull building techniques to find out if you enjoy the hobby, I'd suggest one of the Midwest wooden model kits - http://www.hobbylinc.com/midwest-wooden-model-ships They have a nice variety of kits, and they can be built into incredibly nice looking little boats, even as a first build. Here are some completed build shots I found as reference points on Model Ship World, and several of them are first time wooden ship builds. None of these are my work. The $19.95 Dinghy kit - http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/mid/mid950.htm   Same kit, different builder without the scratch built details.   The $19.95 Skiff kit - http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/mid/mid967.htm  The $18.50 Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack kit - http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/mid/mid951.htm   Some more advanced skill level kits include... The $36 Petersboro Canoe kit - http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/mid/mid982.htm   The $56 Sharpie Schooner kit - http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/mid/mid968.htm 
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Jan 3, 2015 06:00
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Midjack posted:Aoshima made some FMP Arm Slaves a few years back but they're long out of production. Kotobukiya made a Laevetein a few months ago that you can probably still find. Bandai made the Cowboy Bebop Red Tail and Swordfish II years ago and re-released the Swordfish fairly recently. Bandai also currently has the Valkyries from Macross out and you should be able to find them on shelves somewhere. Kotobukiya is also doing Ghost in the Shell kits from SAC and Arise; they have the Tachikoma, the Logicoma, the Jigibachi helicopter, and the giant robot from the first couple of episodes of SAC (I forget the name on that one). Someone else (Wave?) did a Tachikoma and Uchikoma 10 years ago, good luck finding those. I should maybe have added that I'm in a smaller town outside Sapporo where my in-laws live, so no chance to go looking at the specialist hobby stores of Tokyo. But since I wanted to get something, I checked the local mall's toy section and finally got this kit: http://www.amazon.com/Gundam-MSZ-006A1-Zeta-Plus-Scale/dp/B00030EU7Q I chose it because that Master Grade stuff with a skeleton build looked fun just to try, and the box wasn't that big because holy poo poo some of the $30 kits would have taken up half my suitcase and get me killed by my wife for taking up all our baggage space. And it was still just 20 bucks. And despite my lukewarm attitude towards Gundams I can't say no to a robot that turns into a fighter jet. Moving my robot talk to the gunpla thread from now on, sorry.
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Jan 3, 2015 09:11
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The Locator posted:My gut reaction is.. no, for a couple reasons. Thank you! I already ordered it, so I'll guess I'll keep those thoughts in mind. I'll try a more detailed kit after. None of the inexpensive ones seem to be from the age of sail, but I suppose to get started maybe that's alright (that's really my interest).
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Jan 3, 2015 15:02
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Colonial Air Force posted:Thank you! Please share some photos of the materials in the kit when you get it and let me know what you think of it. Given the time to complete, my guess is that you are only supposed to lightly sand (for finish) the hull prior to painting, and not try to shape it at all, but I'm interested in seeing what there actually is to construct in the kit. I'm not sure there is a true 'beginner' level kit for a fully rigged sailing ship from the age of sail that isn't a solid hull kit, regardless of what skill level the manufacturers put on them. The small boats that I linked to are a way to relatively cheaply discover whether you like working with wood in the same fashion needed for the larger ships (with or without rigging depending on what you pick), and still getting a nice looking model out of it. You can probably make your Constructo kit into a nice looking model, but I don't think it will happen without a lot more than 8 hours of time, and some scratch building of details. Maybe you'll prove me wrong, it would be a nice surprise if it builds into a fine little model ship, and I hope it does! The Locator fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Jan 3, 2015 |
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Jan 3, 2015 17:17
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Before painting, it's a good idea to wash the model to remove any mold release agents, then let it air dry. After doing this the other day, I could see some outlines from water drops. They also show through the initial coats of paint. Removing them now means just sanding lightly before applying further coats, which is fine but I would prefer not having to do that. Won't these drops always show up if you let water dry off by itself? This isn't my first model or anything, I only ran into this because I thought I would prepare it the way it's recommended. For the other models, I wiped them with isopropyl alcohol before painting, but that also attracts dust through static. Any thoughts? I bought a tack rag but I haven't tried it due to the residue it left on my scrap plastic.
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Jan 3, 2015 19:31
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I have no experience with this but maybe you can try washing with distilled water instead of tap water so you don't get residue spots.
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Jan 3, 2015 21:03
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Dunno what this thread really goes into, but my granddad builds scale rubber-powered planes and has done for... Probably 60-70 years now, he's finally retired but I've done a lot of running around fields picking them up for him and holding while he winds up the motor (and not jumping and crushing the thing when it snaps!) I scan in his negs and prints for magazines if anyone is interested in some vintage photos of balsa and paper planes. 
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Jan 3, 2015 22:18
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That's pretty cool. How long does a typical 'charge' last in one of those larger ones? I remember having some cheap foam planes as a kid that worked on the same principle. The had a wingspan of maybe 12", and could travel over 100m if the wind was right.
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Jan 4, 2015 01:34
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From what I gather the motor is just to get them into the air, they have a couple of minutes and they time the glide, they then have a winder from a clicky toy that winds down and moves the tail when it runs out so it drops and glides back to earth. If the tail fails to drop and the wind is good then the world is your oyster, I think he said he found one once 25 miles from where he threw it. Previous picture was my granddad, this one is just two dudes. Nettle Soup fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Jan 4, 2015 |
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Jan 4, 2015 02:48
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The Locator posted:I'm not sure there is a true 'beginner' level kit for a fully rigged sailing ship from the age of sail that isn't a solid hull kit, regardless of what skill level the manufacturers put on them. The small boats that I linked to are a way to relatively cheaply discover whether you like working with wood in the same fashion needed for the larger ships (with or without rigging depending on what you pick), and still getting a nice looking model out of it. I don't need a fully-rigged ship to start, it's sort of why I went with a cutter. I'll post photos, and if I enjoy this at least a little, I'll grab one of those other kits you mentioned, wrong-era or not. See how I like it. 
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Jan 4, 2015 03:16
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Nettle Soup posted:Dunno what this thread really goes into, but my granddad builds scale rubber-powered planes and has done for... Probably 60-70 years now, he's finally retired but I've done a lot of running around fields picking them up for him and holding while he winds up the motor (and not jumping and crushing the thing when it snaps!) This is rad, I'd love to see anything else you want to share.
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Jan 4, 2015 07:32
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 I think this is my granddad again, or one of his brothers.  This was scanned in from a print probably 50 years old and about the size of a cigarette card. I did what I could for it.  My grandma, demonstrating how to hold while somebody winds up the motor. He took various girls with him and covered them in mud and stood them 50 feet up in aircraft hangers and such, she was the one who didn't throw the car-jack at him and stomp away. It was their Golden Wedding on the 2nd   I don't know, but I've tagged it "evil genius"   I think this is my favourite.   If you follow the img url there's others in that directory, you can pull out any interesting ones if you want. I'd appreciate if these weren't shared on other forums, he did scan them in for use in his magazine. Warning, most of them are massive, I went with the theory that they could always shrink them down for use in the magazine, but not really blow them up, so I scanned big. If anyone wants to get into this, your local club would be overjoyed to have you. It's pretty much in the last generation now and in 20 years or so I reckon it'll almost all be gone, in the UK at least, I dunno what the American or European situation is.
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Jan 4, 2015 15:11
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Those are pretty cool, thanks for sharing them.
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Jan 4, 2015 19:01
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Thanks to the Tamiya masking tape and some painting tips I got a bunch more done on my road and bridge. Love how the railings turned out!!   
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Jan 5, 2015 04:57
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Baronjutter posted:Thanks to the Tamiya masking tape and some painting tips I got a bunch more done on my road and bridge. Love how the railings turned out!! Looks great!
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Jan 5, 2015 05:56
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Baronjutter you still do amazing work! question: Is the red area bike lanes?
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Jan 5, 2015 06:54
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Jonny Nox posted:Baronjutter you still do amazing work! Yep, despite my layout being north american I'm building my stuff to dutch standards because unlike north american traffic engineers I'm not quite as gently caress off stupid.
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Jan 5, 2015 07:02
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It should also get people on model train forums to freak out about how it'll cause little miniature traffic jams in your tiny town, so that's a bonus.
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Jan 5, 2015 10:13
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Nettle Soup posted:
Thanks for posting those! As far as I know the wood and paper plane scene in the US is largely dead; radio control pretty much took over the model flight hobby years ago. I can still remember some people doing it at the old airfield near my hometown when I was really young but that's been well over a quarter century.
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Jan 5, 2015 18:42
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My dad (RIP) would definitely have loved those photos. Now that I think about, he is the one who actually got me into thinking about model stuff as 'cool'. Started with working on those cheap model car kits from Wal-Mart, moved onto some very simple wood-and-paper planes from local hobby shops, then model rockets, R/C cars, and a little bit of model trains. That's not something I really thought of before. Thanks for posting those pictures and stories and triggering some good memories of my childhood with my dad. 
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Jan 5, 2015 19:38
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Rotten Cookies posted:It should also get people on model train forums to freak out about how it'll cause little miniature traffic jams in your tiny town, so that's a bonus. Yeah the moment I added a bike lane on my last layout and I got like 3 comments saying "Make sure to add a huge traffic jam after some social engineer at city hall took away a needed a car lane to add a bike lane no one wants". The model train community, specially in the US, really skews old, suburban, and conservative/reactionary. Makes sense that they all model the 1950's and ramble on and on about how it was such a perfect golden age. There's even 20-30 something dudes in the hobby that will make little comments about how they were "born in the wrong age" as they model a clean leave it to beaver 1950's that never really existed. Of course they just pick that era because of the trains, nothing to do with the social/racial situation at the time. Just like dudes obsessed with WWII Nazi stuff are totally only in it for the models and 100% don't have any sort of creepy nazi fetish and totally won't go into "clean wehrmacht" nazi apologism or hold gross political beliefs. Not that everyone modeling 1950's choo-choo's is a segregationist who thinks women need to go back to the kitchen, or the moment you build a panzer model you think Hitler had some good ideas, but I'm sure we've all met folk like that.
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Jan 5, 2015 20:15
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If you want to really mess with their minds tell them that jaywalking isn't a concept in your teeny town, because you don't want to blame pedestrians for the mistakes of drivers.
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Jan 6, 2015 00:41
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Arquinsiel posted:If you want to really mess with their minds tell them that jaywalking isn't a concept in your teeny town, because you don't want to blame pedestrians for the mistakes of drivers. I was thinking you should add some sort of Buffet restaurant and say only people 45 and over are allowed inside as a peace offering.
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Jan 6, 2015 02:09
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