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If it's the car you want and the price is right but it now. No guarantee you can find another in a month.
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Jan 4, 2015 17:35
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skipdogg posted:If it's the car you want and the price is right but it now. No guarantee you can find another in a month. Also, you want to keep in mind that another month or two will be about the time folks start getting their phat tax refunds and might be more inclined to buy cars.
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Jan 4, 2015 20:05
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Proposed Budget: ~30-35k + tradein. Cash, could finance if I had a reason to. New or Used: Either. Right now, I think I lean towards new. Body Style: (e.g. 2 door? 4 door? Compact/Midsize/Fullsize Sedan? Truck? SUV?) Compact/midsize, prefer 4 doors but 2 is ok. Has to fit in my parking pad -- 209 inches deep. Figure that means the longest it can be is ~195 inches. How will you be using the car?: (Do you tow things? Haul more than 5 people on a regular basis? Have a super long commute? How are you going to use this vehicle? Mostly commuting to work, errands, driving to see family most weekends and occasional long (400+ mi) roadtrips. Live in DC, so the commute is a lot of time on the road and not very far. Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?) Yes, I want navigation and bluetooth built-in. Extra gizmos fun, but may not be necessary. gently caress sun/moonroofs. What aspects are most important to you? (e.g. reliability, cost of ownership/maintenance, import/domestic, MPG, size, style). Style, reliability, MPG. 3. If you do not live in the U.S. you should probably say so because what's available can vary a lot. I'm in the U.S. Because it's DC, it needs to be able to handle snow. I've been looking at camry / camry hybrid, mini, and things like the GTI. Thoughts?
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Jan 4, 2015 20:57
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skipdogg posted:If it's the car you want and the price is right but it now. No guarantee you can find another in a month. even though it only has a few thousand miles on it and I'm getting xyz warranties (cpo) I should still have an independent mechanic take a look at it right?
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Jan 4, 2015 21:01
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1. READ THE OP! - Checkbox Proposed Budget: <= $15k New or Used: Used "off lease" unless there is some crazy new car scent that needs to be had. Body Style: 4 door sedan. How will you be using the car?: DD - 30 mile one way commute / 15k miles a year econobox car. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, TCO, and having an AUX port would be super nice. I am 6'4" and I need to be able to get comfortable in the passenger seat for 2-3 hour trips. (This is already quite the feet in the honda civic.) Largely looking for known gotchas in specific japanese econoboxes. Wife's 2003 Honda Civic LX recently got rear ended, and combined with other lacking safety features (no ABS, no traction control), and previous front end collision we think it's time to get a new-to-her car. Writing off 2 month old tires is sad. Thinking about: Toyota Corollas, Honda Civics, and Mazda 3's. Going to go sit in and drive all three, want to be able to buy one confidently if it seems like a reasonable deal. Do not want: EU, KR cars. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Jan 5, 2015 |
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Jan 4, 2015 21:41
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Zauper posted:Proposed Budget: H110Hawk posted:1. READ THE OP! - Checkbox Are either of you averse to a Prius? Because Prius.
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Jan 4, 2015 22:53
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IRQ posted:Are either of you averse to a Prius? Because Prius. I am not averse to anything not specifically listed in my original post. A plug-in hybrid would be super neato. I should go sit in the latest gen Prius. Unfortunately I am a tall person at 6'4" and previous gen Prius (non-V's) were too small for me. Volts are too small for me for long rides. I have to be able to fit in the passenger seat and occasionally drive the sucker. I will edit my post. (I am looking at a Toyota Camry as my new DD in 3-6 months.) Edit: Color me shocked. A used hybrid honda civic is not too far over our price range. Are CVT's timebombs any more than normal automatics? Used 2012 Honda Civic Hybrid Sedan 32,222 miles - $16k H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Jan 5, 2015 |
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Jan 5, 2015 00:38
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H110Hawk posted:Edit: Color me shocked. A used hybrid honda civic is not too far over our price range. Are CVT's timebombs any more than normal automatics? Also, you may find some smaller cars shockingly roomy (the prius is tight for tall people though). I'm 6'4" and drive a Mazda 2 (don't buy an automatic mazda 2 though). Strangely enough the Prius C is bigger in the driver's seat (though otherwise is a worse car than a prius).
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Jan 5, 2015 03:53
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nm posted:No, but Hondas DO have battery problems, unlike Toyotas. Interesting. I will research the battery issues. I don't rule anything out until I've sat in it, and I don't rule anything *in* until I've sat in it for 10-15 minutes.
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Jan 5, 2015 04:36
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IRQ posted:Are either of you averse to a Prius? Because Prius. Moderately. It's unattractive and I'm tall. I'll give it a whirl.
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Jan 5, 2015 04:49
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Used pricing question. Suppose there is a car that I want to buy but I am in no rush with the purchase. The dealer offers a CPO warranty, the car passes the test drive, and the dealer/sales guy seems like a decent fellow (doesn't push me with the purchase, answers all my questions in detail). The car is priced within the KBB fair range. How stupid would I be to pay sticker price? How would this change is the mileage were high - 28k mi/yr. Are there other ways to estimate a reasonable price for a CPO car? My gut instinct would be to offer 10% below the asking price and be willing to settle at 5%. Is it unreasonable to stand firm on 10% below sticker for the higher mileage car even if it's a CPO? The problem is that there are only two dealers in the area, and they don't have many CPO cars so getting them to bid against each other is next to impossible even if I waited. The car in question is a 2012 or '13 Subaru Outback 2.5i. If I disqualify the car that has a rental background in a state that salts roads, I find five cars in the area (70 mile radius). One of them has a high mileage for the year, the others are more normal and within my budget. Pricing used cars sucks.
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Jan 5, 2015 06:27
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Sunter posted:I live in the bay area, no kids, no major storage needs. My daily is a motorcycle, but I'm looking for a fun car to take out on the weekend or for short shopping excursions. I have a friend ready to sell me a 2005 S2000 in good condition with 120k miles on it for 11k, but I want to make sure I'm not missing out on something more fun. I have no major life responsibilities and a beautiful garage with tools to work on most anything. Open to a more project oriented car as long as it runs more than it doesn't. buy a 30k miles 2008 miata and don't look back
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Jan 5, 2015 06:32
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ethanol posted:buy a 30k miles 2008 miata and don't look back Something with so few miles looks 3-6k more expensive around here, what are the big justifications besides convertible hardtop?
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Jan 5, 2015 07:51
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theHUNGERian posted:Used pricing question. What's the price difference vs buying a new one? I'm thinking this might be a scenario where buying new makes sense
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Jan 5, 2015 08:14
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Sunter posted:Something with so few miles looks 3-6k more expensive around here, what are the big justifications besides convertible hardtop? I admit I am a bit biased because I own one, but with the 2008, you get one of the best looking miata facelifts, and some other stuff like throttle by wire with the low miles, you get the BEST sports car that feels brand new and has zero reliability issues.. and it's a sports car, unless you are some sort of gearhead specialist you should be buying one with low miles! I don't know what happens to an s2000 after 100k miles but everything needs attention at that age. I could be wrong. If you're prepared to give it the attention it will deserve and love the s2000 more, go for it, it is faster after all But I myself choose the miata after driving an elise (mmmmm I wanted that 15k over budget beast), and s2000 (the two I looked at were just too.. immature looking). At least go drive one! ethanol fucked around with this message at 09:34 on Jan 5, 2015 |
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Jan 5, 2015 09:27
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skipdogg posted:What's the price difference vs buying a new one? I'm thinking this might be a scenario where buying new makes sense New: $26.6k before tax CPO: $22k before tax I'd prefer the CPO as my pain threshold is $25k out the door. With the CPO warranty I don't have a lot to worry about, right?
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Jan 5, 2015 17:19
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Read the warranty carefully and ask a lot of questions.
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Jan 5, 2015 17:54
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theHUNGERian posted:New: $26.6k before tax I'm guessing you are adding at least some options here, but if not, you can definitely do better than $26.6k:  Also, what are your financing options? Interest rates on new cars can be a good bit cheaper than on used cars.
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Jan 5, 2015 18:11
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do not listen to ethanol about miatas he has some weird fetish
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Jan 5, 2015 20:56
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Awesome! posted:do not listen to ethanol about miatas he has some weird fetish 
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Jan 5, 2015 21:01
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'm guessing you are adding at least some options here, but if not, you can definitely do better than $26.6k: I'll most likely be paying in cash as my credit (apparently) sucks, not because I am bad with money but because I've only borrowed money once (and apparently that $30k loan [paid back in full within 2 years] does not give them enough information to trust me with a $15k loan). I am working on fixing my credit score, but I may have to purchase the car before that occurs. My main argument against buying a new car is that there is no data on how well these cars will work at 30k-60k miles. I would like to buy a car with the intent of driving it past 200k miles. My current Sentra is at 237k miles - I am THAT committed. This is why I actually prefer the 2011-2012 models - more data from high mileage vehicles. In addition, with the CPO cars, I can have more options (go up in one trim level) and still squeeze it in under $25k out the door. Does your true car estimate include CA sales tax? KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Read the warranty carefully and ask a lot of questions. What should I look for? What kinds of questions should I ask? I apologize in advance is this has been answered before in this thread.
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Jan 6, 2015 03:56
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theHUNGERian posted:I'll most likely be paying in cash as my credit (apparently) sucks, not because I am bad with money but because I've only borrowed money once (and apparently that $30k loan [paid back in full within 2 years] does not give them enough information to trust me with a $15k loan). I am working on fixing my credit score, but I may have to purchase the car before that occurs. If the current revision of what you're looking at is a few years old (I think it is but don't quote me on Subarus) then you can pretty reliably say that a model from this year will perform as well or better as the year that revision was introduced. Buying new does not really mean buying an unproven design by any means, buying a new year of a well refined design can often mean a better car as the kinks got worked out. It's up to you to figure that out, my car is an 09 that had a mature, solid design, but the '12 design was better (but out of my price range 2 years ago) and today you should buy that one. New doesn't mean unproven.
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Jan 6, 2015 04:46
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theHUNGERian posted:My main argument against buying a new car is that there is no data on how well these cars will work at 30k-60k miles. I would like to buy a car with the intent of driving it past 200k miles. My current Sentra is at 237k miles - I am THAT committed. This is why I actually prefer the 2011-2012 models - more data from high mileage vehicles. In addition, with the CPO cars, I can have more options (go up in one trim level) and still squeeze it in under $25k out the door. Does your true car estimate include CA sales tax? I doubt there is a new car being sold in America today that won't make it well past 200k miles, provided you do the scheduled maintenance. Seriously, 200k is an absolute baseline for any car sold in the last ten years, so you are not exactly setting a high bar. "CPO" is a marketing term invented by dealerships to sell more cars. In some cases it means there's some kind of warranty, but used car warranties are notorious for being filled with loopholes, so be very careful about exactly how much of a premium you're paying for a warranty. In particular a car that is only 2 years old and has only 60k miles on it is unlikely to have any major non-wear item wear out during a typical warranty period... and the wear items are unlikely to be covered. More importantly, cars that are less than 3 years old being sold by dealerships as CPO are mostly rentals, which we in this thread regard with alarm bells, so check the trufax/etc. and if the previous owner was Hertz or something, flee. After 3 years, you're mostly looking at lease returns, which may be marginally better than a rental, on the assumption that the previous owner probably let the dealership do the scheduled maintenance (check for records of that) and probably didn't abuse the car (because they didn't want to wind up paying penalties). But a non-CPO used car can (and should) be inspected by an independent mechanic, and if you're desperate for a warranty, you can buy an aftermarket warranty (again though, be very thorough with the fine print because a lot of the ones dealerships try to tack on are horrible).
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Jan 6, 2015 04:54
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Leperflesh posted:I doubt there is a new car being sold in America today that won't make it well past 200k miles, provided you do the scheduled maintenance. Seriously, 200k is an absolute baseline for any car sold in the last ten years, so you are not exactly setting a high bar. Ahh alright. I thought that cars today are not expected to go too far past 150k miles. I'm glad the bar of 200k miles isn't very high then. I checked the carfax religiously for rentals/leases and so far they are in the minority (three out of 10+ cars so far). Back to my original question. How stupid would I be to pay the sticker price on a CPO car whose sticker price falls in KBB's fair price range? Am I out of line to counter with a 10% discount?
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Jan 6, 2015 06:11
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After 7 years of living in Copenhagen without a car (occasionally borrowing one) my wife has convinced me that we should get one. We're looking at a new car because we know dick all about cars and want that sweet sweet warranty. We've been looking at things a step up from little cheap cars for running around the city, but cars are super expensive here so not much more than that. After looking around a lot we narrowed it down to either a Skoda Rapid or a Toyota Yaris Hybrid, that are similarly priced - should we get one of these or something else? Skoda Rapid - My wife likes that it's big, I am a scared manbaby that's driven a car maybe 20 times in the past 7 years and think it's too big. It can have a cool glass roof thing. The stereo interface is a bit better. It's cheaper and we can get better interest on financing. Toyota Yaris Hybrid - It's smaller and an automatic so I'd feel more comfortable driving it and she wouldn't complain about my gear changes. It's a hybrid and feels futurey. Has controls on the wheel and a back camera for parking which are nice. It's more expensive but should save us some money on fuel I guess. To fill out the template in case these are both terrible ideas: New or Used: New Body Style: (e.g. 2 door? 4 door? Compact/Midsize/Fullsize Sedan? Truck? SUV?) 5 Door How will you be using the car?: (Do you tow things? Haul more than 5 people on a regular basis? Have a super long commute? How are you going to use this vehicle? Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?) We probably won't be commuting in it because we work in the city, driving out to family at weekends or going shopping in evenings/weekends mostly. Occasionally we'd like to take trips out into Europe for a weekend or something. Absolutely must have Bluetooth, and other flashy things are always appreciated. What aspects are most important to you? (e.g. reliability, cost of ownership/maintenance, import/domestic, MPG, size, style) We know nothing about cars, so anything where we don't have to worry too much about maintenance/reliability would be nice. Style and mpg are also important. 3. If you do not live in the U.S. you should probably say so because what's available can vary a lot. We live in Copenhagen, Denmark which is not in the US.
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Jan 6, 2015 08:31
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Can I ask a dealer to take their used car off the lot to get inspected by an independent mechanic, or are they just going to tell me to gently caress off?
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Jan 6, 2015 15:28
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theHUNGERian posted:Back to my original question. How stupid would I be to pay the sticker price on a CPO car whose sticker price falls in KBB's fair price range? Am I out of line to counter with a 10% discount? Always, always counteroffer. If the car wasn't bought up within minutes of the price tag going on the windshield, you can be fairly confident that there isn't someone trying to buy it out from under you at sticker plus a bunch of bullshit addons. As far as the concerns about reliability... while I wouldn't sweat any new Subaru to go 200k miles, it does look like the 2015 Outback is a newly refreshed model. A quick glance makes it seem like they carried over most of the major mechanicals so it's probably a safe bet, but if you'd be more comfortable with a car that has been on the market for a few years as-is, perhaps see if anyone still has any new 2014s in stock. They'd have the added advantage of wanting to get rid of last years model, though I suspect there aren't a whole lot left. EugeneJ posted:Can I ask a dealer to take their used car off the lot to get inspected by an independent mechanic, or are they just going to tell me to gently caress off? You can always ask, and how they respond dictates how you should proceed. If they won't let you get a second opinion, you should probably move on. To both of you: Dealers are in the customer service business. Any salesperson at a dealership that has enough braincells left to do more than blow out speakers in the car sitting in the showroom, is going to at least entertain the idea of any request you throw their way. You're the one with the cash and/or credit to buy the car; they're working for you, not the other way around. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Jan 6, 2015 |
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Jan 6, 2015 16:44
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theHUNGERian posted:Ahh alright. I thought that cars today are not expected to go too far past 150k miles. I'm glad the bar of 200k miles isn't very high then. Yeah basically if you pay sticker price for a used car, you're a fool. I would open negotiation at least 15% below sticker and then try to settle on a price around 10% off sticker, as a very very rough guideline. It's very very rough because exactly how much room there is to negotiate depends on a lot of factors, one of which - how much the dealership paid for the car - you have no way of finding out. Other factors include how long it's been on their lot, how rare or desirable that car is in your area, and how motivated the salesman is (by incentives offered by his boss, for example) to make a sale (vs. maximize his commission). Sometimes a salesman has a quota or a target # of vehicles to sell by the end of the month, or bonus incentives they can earn if they sell a certain number of cars. This is why I sometimes suggest folks try to finish negotiation during the last two or three days of the month. That may not actually get you anything, but you never know. So you open with a lowball offer, and you be 100% willing to leave if you don't get the price you want. In fact if you just saw the car on the lot today, I'd suggest waiting at least a day or two before coming back to negotiate, and make it clear that you're still considering one or two other cars you've looked at. I like to tell the sales guy that I need to run whatever price we get past my wife, e.g., give me your best price and then I'll go home and maybe never come back. Helps to turn off that whole "what do I do to get you to drive away with this today" tactic that sales people love to use to buffalo you before you have time to go online and check competing prices or go to a rival dealership and try and get the same car cheaper there. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Jan 6, 2015 |
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Jan 6, 2015 20:37
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Leperflesh posted:... if you pay sticker price for a used car, you're a fool ... Alright, this sounds encouraging, and given that I am in no rush to buy, I certainly have the patience/time to walk away from any deal that is too rich for me. One card I may not have in my deck though is the "I'm considering other dealerships." I'm still leaning towards buying a CPO car rather than new, and I'm not sure if the CPO warranty from dealership A is honored at dealership B. I'll have to call and find out.
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Jan 7, 2015 04:14
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Don't sweat that. Even if you are literally not looking at any other dealers or cars, don't tell the dealer that, they don't know for sure.
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Jan 7, 2015 04:44
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I've mentioned this in this thread before, but it's worth repeating. CPO cars are just used cars sold with a manufacturer backed extended warranty at the original manufacturers dealership networks. For instance, you have 2 of the exact same cars. I'm most familiar with Ford products, so lets say 2013 Ford Fusions. A good chunk of those should be coming in off their original 36/39 month leases soon. Exact same car, same color, features, trim, and say similar mileage of 36,000 miles. Let's call them cars A and B. John Smith Toyota buys car A at auction for the going wholesale auction rate. Let's say 13,000 dollars. They truck it in, clean it up, give it a quick inspection, and slap a lot price of 16,995 on it, and a internet price of 15,495. It's sold with the balance of the original Ford powertrain warranty on it, but it has 36,000 miles on it, so the bumper to bumper has expired. Bob's Ford buy car B at auction for 13,000 dollars. They truck it in, clean it up, give it a quick inspection and market it as a "Certified Pre-Owned Car". Ford's CPO program gives you an extra 12mo/12K on the bumper to bumper, and 7yr/100k on the powertrain warranty. Participating in this program costs money, they basically buy an extended warranty from Ford for 1000 dollars and then bake it into the price of the car and then get to market it as CPO. Car B is listed at 17,995 on the lot and 16,495 online. These are the exact same cars. Car A comes with no extended warranty. Car B, is "CPO" and has the extended warranty just baked into the price of the car ahead of time. The '174 point inspection' process is bullshit. Dealers don't have time to really dig into these cars, it's a numbers game. They'll give it a good visual inspection, make sure everything is in working order and is safe to sell and maybe change the oil on it (wouldn't count on it though). They're counting on the car being problem free. Now is this bad? Not really as long as you understand what is going on. There is nothing stopping you from buying Car A at the Toyota dealership and purchasing an extended warranty there. The warranty won't be through the company that handles the Ford branded warranties, it'll be a 3rd party, but a reputable dealer should sell a decent warranty product. You can also purchase manufacturer branded extended warranties online. I"m not sure about all brands, but I know you can do it with Ford. I'm guessing all of the domestics would have something similar. There are some dealers who will sell the warranty product for less even if you didn't buy the car there. I know Ford extended warranties are cutthroat priced online. My most recent car is a CPO car. Personally I prefer the factory/manufacturer backed warranties over a 3rd party one as they're easily accepted at any dealer of that manufacturer and typically don't have any paperwork or claims bullshit to deal with. It's also easier to get someone who may give a poo poo if something goes wrong. It's easier to find someone to bitch at with Ford than National Auto Warranty Services of PO Box nowhereville, doesnt exist good luck trying to find us Inc. tl:dr; Don't get hung up on the CPO aspect of a car. It's just an extended warranty.
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Jan 7, 2015 06:20
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I'm currently shopping for a used car. Of the several I test drove tonight, my favorite and the one I'm leaning toward is a 2013 Chrysler 200 LX with about 41K miles on it. I guess it belonged to a salesperson or something. There's a few other models on the lot I can look at, probably with lower mileage. I'm not really a car person, but it felt great to drive and the interior was a huge upgrade from my 250K mile beater. I plan to own it for a decade, at least, so I'm concerned about reliability. Are there any glaring mechanical defects with this line I should be aware of? What can I expect in terms of frequency and cost of repairs? Is there something similar I could be looking at without these flaws?
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Jan 7, 2015 06:31
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Dear lord please don't buy that car, buy anything else but not a 1st gen 200. We have a saying in this thread that there really are no 'bad' cars being made anymore, but I will say there are so many better cars out there than that car you really should consider anything else. Fill out the form in the OP and we'll point you in the right direction. If you're looking for a midsized domestic I personally favor the Ford Fusion. (If you're looking at a 200 I'm guessing your on a budget, the midsize imports are all really nice as well) skipdogg fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Jan 7, 2015 |
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Jan 7, 2015 07:14
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Can you explain? I don't read this forum regularly. Budget: $10 to $15 thousand New or Used: Used Body Style: Sedan How will you be using the car?: 20 highway miles back and forth to work each day, weekend driving around the city of Los Angeles. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability first. I plan to drive this car for ten years, so my follow ups are a toss up between fuel efficiency and a decent interior. I'm going to spend a lot of time in it over the next decade, I want it to be comfortable and somewhat stylish but I don't need luxury quality.
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Jan 7, 2015 07:31
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Car purchase #2, I just had (I think) a good experience with Costco's auto program. We were after a '15 Honda CR-V EX 2wd, but during the test drive phase the two nearby dealers had been evasive shits when I tried to get a firm number/opening offer out of them. When purchase time approached my wife must've used the costco website because a guy from a third dealership who handles their Costco, AAA and online sales contacts her with a straightforward offer, $200 over invoice, $25,140 before taxes and fees- only $40 over what I'd been planning to use as an opening offer with our dealers. I really appreciated not being dicked around and getting a hard number from the guy straight off, it was under what she was prepared to pay, so we decided we'd rather give him the business and didn't bother to see if other dealers would beat it. I know salesman words are wind, but I think I learned the following: 1-There's nothing in it for the random sales guy on the lot if you go through Costco. At the dealership where we ended up buying the CR-V a salesman had originally been super cool and helpful back when I was shopping for my own car. Low pressure and one of the only guys that didn't raise my hackles. I tried to get it so he saw some commission or something when we bought the CR-V but was pretty much told that the dealership's regular sales guys couldn't have gotten us this price, that his contribution was duly noted but he couldn't get anything out of our deal. If true, this would explain why when we'd walked onto another Honda lot and asked the salesman who pounced on us a simple question (what is the Costco price on a 2wd CR-V EX?), he brought us in then gave us the runaround for a good 20 minutes before I decided to up and leave. 2-They're supposedly having a hard time moving the 2014 CR-V's because despite the major refresh/minor redesign of the '15s (including CVT, sport mode, bitchin headlights), the manufacturer has only been giving Honda dealers a $750 incentive to unload the '14s. The large number of '14s on local lots bears this out, though the more metropolitan ones seem to have managed to ditch them. 3-According to the guy who sold us a car mind you, they're not really having a hard time moving the '15 CR-Vs at or near sticker price yet, so apart from prearranged pricing programs the other sales guys probably wouldn't have bothered with me and my $25,100 offer if I'd gotten to that point. I had originally discounted the Costco problem since the collective wisdom of the internet seemed to be that programs like Costco are better than no haggling but that you can do better. Now I think it's at least worth checking out if you're looking at a car that's short on dealer incentives or bargaining leverage.
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Jan 7, 2015 07:33
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RommelMcDonald posted:Can you explain? I don't read this forum regularly. The major issue with the 2013 200 is that it is basically a rebadged Sebring. While there isn't anything glaringly awful about it there also isn't anything that it does that other cars don't do better, except perhaps price. Fuel economy isn't all that great even with the 4-cylinder (which is apparently lackluster in the performance department) and Chrysler tends to be dead last in reliability among major manufacturers. They also are used as rental fleet vehicles so depreciation is going to be very high.
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Jan 7, 2015 21:20
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RommelMcDonald posted:Can you explain? I don't read this forum regularly. You plan to spend $10-15k, want reliability first and fuel economy / interior space second? Buy the best Prius you can find.
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Jan 7, 2015 21:32
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I'm on the hunt for my first car, and I would love some suggestions just to make sure I haven't overlooked any real contenders. Also, I live in Australia! Proposed budget: ideally around $8-9k, $12k is the absolutely tops New or used: probably used - I ain't made of money Body style: compact, 4-door, preferably hatch How will you be using the car? Pretty much just to get from A to B, with the occasional mini road trip Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos? My optional "luxury" criteria (from most desired to least) are aux input, some nifty storage compartments, and colours that aren't just black/silver/white, etc. What aspects are most important to you? Fuel economy and space
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Jan 8, 2015 03:06
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RommelMcDonald posted:I'm currently shopping for a used car. Of the several I test drove tonight, my favorite and the one I'm leaning toward is a 2013 Chrysler 200 LX with about 41K miles on it. I guess it belonged to a salesperson or something. There's a few other models on the lot I can look at, probably with lower mileage. Well if the 200 were the same price as the Fusion I would probably go with the Fusion(by a tiny margin, I don't particularly care for the Fusion unlike some noted Ford apologists here), but chances are the 200 is much cheaper seeing as how they were getting them out the door for like $14k brand new. I've never heard of any glaring mechanical defects on the 200, it's at least as reliable as the Fusion as far as I can tell. Throatwarbler fucked around with this message at 08:26 on Jan 8, 2015 |
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Jan 8, 2015 08:15
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Twerk from Home posted:You plan to spend $10-15k, want reliability first and fuel economy / interior space second? Buy the best Prius you can find. Hard pressed to find a worse answer than this
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Jan 8, 2015 08:38
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