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lollybo posted:Sorry to clog up the thread with yet another PSU question. Looks like I have had really bad luck with PSUs. I recently got a seasonic x650 and it is a nice PSU except at idle there is an annoying high pitched sound at idle. The sound goes away when I run furmark and prime 95. It is also intermittent, sometimes it will go off and go back on again, with no rhyme or reason. And random activities, like scrolling on a webpage or loading a video, predictable causes it to pause for a bit. Is there another solution to this problem, other than an RMA? I read something about this being possibly related to the wall socket being improperly grounded, which may make sense as my system seemed to be silent when I built it at my parents' house, maybe I will try another socket to see if it improves... It sounds like you're describing coil whine.
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Jan 6, 2015 05:01
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Yep, coil whine. Unfortunately, not much you can do without an RMA (assuming you don't have long experience with high-voltage electronics you aren't mentioning). You might try, as a last ditch, going into the system BIOS and enabling Spread Spectrum clocking, but that's not guaranteed to help.
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Jan 6, 2015 05:11
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Is it possible to get an extension for a front-panel HD Audio connector? The cable in this case is comically short and the cooler I want to install might make it impossible to reach the header on the motherboard.
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Jan 6, 2015 13:23
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Instant Grat posted:Is it possible to get an extension for a front-panel HD Audio connector? The cable in this case is comically short and the cooler I want to install might make it impossible to reach the header on the motherboard. Yeah: http://www.amazon.com/CVTAUDIOE25-Extension-standard-motherboard-connector/dp/B0043SKQJK I'd probably just use electronic jumper cables to make my own but I have them on hand already: http://www.amazon.com/Phantom-dupont-cable-200mm-female/dp/B00A6SOGC4 Obviously the extension is cleaner and less fiddly.
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Jan 6, 2015 13:43
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The onboard gigabit LAN on my Asus desktop motherboard has a bogus MAC address in Windows 7 of 88:88:88:88:87:88. Other devices on the network also see that address for that computer so it's not just a display problem. It's been like this for a long time and I've never cared because it works anyway, but lately I've been trying to get WOL to work without success and I suspect this bullshit MAC is the reason. What could cause this and what can I do to correct it? The advanced settings for the device in device manager allow you to set the MAC address but the option has no effect. I've tried updating drivers too, naturally.
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Jan 7, 2015 07:30
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Torka posted:The onboard gigabit LAN on my Asus desktop motherboard has a bogus MAC address in Windows 7 of 88:88:88:88:87:88. Other devices on the network also see that address for that computer so it's not just a display problem. Seems like a common issue with a particular Intel NIC. Try this http://service.msicomputer.com/msi_user/support/TechFAQdetail.aspx?formid=2993
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Jan 7, 2015 08:11
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Nice, that MSI board has the same NIC chip so that must be it! Thanks a lot dude. e: worked brilliantly, I have now a proper mac address and working WOL  thanks again
Torka fucked around with this message at 11:12 on Jan 7, 2015 |
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Jan 7, 2015 08:18
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Does anyone know if the nzxt grid+ can only be controlled by the nzxt cam software or if it can be controlled by speedfan or ASUS AI Suite?
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Jan 7, 2015 13:05
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HERAK posted:Does anyone know if the nzxt grid+ can only be controlled by the nzxt cam software or if it can be controlled by speedfan or ASUS AI Suite? From what I can find online, it seems that it's a proprietary USB fan controller and as such is limited to its own software. It does use USB as a virtual serial port, however, and this guy seems to have reverse engineered the communication protocol and written his own control app since the cam software sounds pretty bad: https://rizvanrp.com/tag/nzxt-grid-speedfan/
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Jan 7, 2015 13:34
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I'll just cross post this from Games:Professor Shark posted:Well I was hoping that when I got FC4 I would be able to play it then read through the thread, but it is running pretty badly on my computer after installing it yesterday and it's really saddening to me how it's performance is making me not eager to play it. The Crusher posted:I'll just mention this since I didn't see you mention it, but I had some really bad issues with FC4 when I first booted up; Everything had Depth of Field blur at the worst times, things were choppy, etc. The instant fix was just updating my Nvidia drivers. Have you done that recently? If not, give it a shot. Professor Shark posted:I haven't- would the GeForce GT 530 count under their 500 Series? I downloaded the 500 Series Driver update (347.09-desktop-win8-win7-winvista-64bit-international-whql.exe), is that the right one?
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Jan 7, 2015 21:28
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Yes, the GT 530 is a 500 series card, and yes, 347.09 is the current newest driver, and yes, you've selected the correct package for your OS. The GT 530 is a real hog, both at the time it was launched and especially now. Updated drivers may smooth out gameplay, but you'd probably need a graphics upgrade to make it really fluid and pretty and whatnot.
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Jan 7, 2015 21:42
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Factory Factory posted:Yes, the GT 530 is a 500 series card, and yes, 347.09 is the current newest driver, and yes, you've selected the correct package for your OS. Nuts. What would you recommend to me, a really-not-smart-at-computers-guy, so I don't have to gaze into the Futureshop guys eyes as they cartoonishly turn into dollar signs? Edit: Also, thanks for the quick response!
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Jan 7, 2015 21:45
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Professor Shark posted:Nuts. What would you recommend to me, a really-not-smart-at-computers-guy, so I don't have to gaze into the Futureshop guys eyes as they cartoonishly turn into dollar signs? Futureshop's pricing is criminal, but this is the fastest card you can get in the balls-simple range: http://m.futureshop.ca/defaultpage.aspx?lang=en#/catalog/productdetails.aspx?ajax=true&sku=10297924&lang=en-CA If you can wait on Newegg, get this one instead: http://m.newegg.ca/Product/index?itemnumber=14-487-025 Either way, just uninstall your graphics drivers from the control panel, shut down the PC and swap the new card for the old, then start up and install new drivers from nvidia.com.
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Jan 7, 2015 22:35
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I'm hoping that someone can answer this. Is there an IP KVM that's under $1k USD and isn't complete poo poo? I've used a few and they're all pretty annoying thus far. The Dell 2161DS has the dual cursor issue (although that's not too bad. I can easily live with it.). But, others I've used not only have that issue, but quite a few others. The Startech I'm currently using doesn't seem to like common keyboard shortcuts (CTRL + C, CTRL + V etc) as all too often, it seems to think that you're still holding down the CTRL key when you're clearly not. The video on it is terrible as well. It's easily the slowest screen redraw I've seen. I'd like one that has a minimum of 4 ports but would prefer 8 ports.
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Jan 8, 2015 00:38
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Factory Factory posted:If you can wait on Newegg, get this one instead: http://m.newegg.ca/Product/index?itemnumber=14-487-025 Totally agreed on this recommendation. Seems to me the 750 balances performance, price, and power better than just about anything out there. No auxiliary cable. "How come there's no fan plug?"
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Jan 8, 2015 10:16
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Factory Factory posted:Futureshop's pricing is criminal, but this is the fastest card you can get in the balls-simple range: http://m.futureshop.ca/defaultpage.aspx?lang=en#/catalog/productdetails.aspx?ajax=true&sku=10297924&lang=en-CA I think I'm going to take the plunge on this, maybe even try to do it myself. Expect frantic,  heavy posts itt in a few months!
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Jan 8, 2015 11:12
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It's very simple, you'll be fine. If you have a friend that's done it before you may as well ask for some help, but be prepared to say "wow, that was easy" afterwards.
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Jan 8, 2015 21:55
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Yeah, don't worry, its pretty much impossible to gently caress up. Slot A Tab B stuff.
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Jan 8, 2015 22:00
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Random rear end question: There a good, HDMI switcher that's not too expensive? I have a PS4 and Xbox 360 that need to share one HDMI port while my PC gets the other HDMI port that it shall never share with the other boxes.  Anything on amazon?Thanks
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Jan 10, 2015 04:00
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Duke Chin posted:Random rear end question: There a good, HDMI switcher that's not too expensive? I have a PS4 and Xbox 360 that need to share one HDMI port while my PC gets the other HDMI port that it shall never share with the other boxes. I use this Monoprice one. It's currently out of stock but will be back in on Monday. Works great.
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Jan 10, 2015 05:53
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Duke Chin posted:Random rear end question: There a good, HDMI switcher that's not too expensive? I have a PS4 and Xbox 360 that need to share one HDMI port while my PC gets the other HDMI port that it shall never share with the other boxes. I use this one http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=7112&seq=1&format=2 (same thing as https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008F29MZ4/). It's probably got more features than you need but I thought I'd provide it as an option. I use the analog audio output to get my console output to my headphones, and the two outputs let me pick which monitor to use for them.
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Jan 10, 2015 06:52
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I bought some used DDR3 1600 off a goon, but it's showing up as 1333 in the BIOS. I googled around and everyone said to enable XMP. This seems to work, but it also overclocks my CPU, which is not good because I'm still on a stock cooler at the moment. How can I set up the RAM to run at the advertised speed without overclocking?
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Jan 10, 2015 09:53
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Is x264 encoding supposed to take forever? This is my first go, encoding the Master and Commander bluray using Handbrake on my 3570K overclocked to 4.2GHz. I'm only averaging 2.0 fps on CRF 18 and that seems crazy slow. I used the "Placebo" preset but assumed the crf would scale things back. I didn't set any flags manually or do anything that seems crazy. Audio is being passed through (DTS-MA and AC3) as well as a couple subtitles. Total time is looking to be 28 hours. level=4.1:ref=7:bframes=16:b-adapt=2:direct=auto:deblock=-1,-1:analyse=all:me=tesa:merange=24:subme=11:trellis=2:fast-pskip=0:psy-rd=1.00,0.15:vbv-bufsize=78125:vbv-maxrate=62500:rc-lookahead=60
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Jan 10, 2015 10:41
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AgentCow007 posted:I bought some used DDR3 1600 off a goon, but it's showing up as 1333 in the BIOS. I googled around and everyone said to enable XMP. This seems to work, but it also overclocks my CPU, which is not good because I'm still on a stock cooler at the moment. How can I set up the RAM to run at the advertised speed without overclocking? That's a quirk of the motherboard's firmware. Manually downclock the CPU, or wait on clocking the RAM higher until you have a CPU cooler. Josh Lyman posted:Is x264 encoding supposed to take forever? This is my first go, encoding the Master and Commander bluray using Handbrake on my 3570K overclocked to 4.2GHz. I'm only averaging 2.0 fps on CRF 18 and that seems crazy slow. I used the "Placebo" preset but assumed the crf would scale things back. I didn't set any flags manually or do anything that seems crazy. Audio is being passed through (DTS-MA and AC3) as well as a couple subtitles. Total time is looking to be 28 hours. That does appear to be abnormally slow for CRF 18, but I think Placebo controls there. Turn that off and see how it goes. Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 10:51 on Jan 10, 2015 |
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Jan 10, 2015 10:44
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Josh Lyman posted:Is x264 encoding supposed to take forever? This is my first go, encoding the Master and Commander bluray using Handbrake on my 3570K overclocked to 4.2GHz. I'm only averaging 2.0 fps on CRF 18 and that seems crazy slow. I used the "Placebo" preset but assumed the crf would scale things back. I didn't set any flags manually or do anything that seems crazy. Audio is being passed through (DTS-MA and AC3) as well as a couple subtitles. Total time is looking to be 28 hours. Don't use placebo, you're just wasting time; there's a reason it has this name. Just use it on a faster setting, slow or medium. It doesn't affect quality since you're supplying a quality target anyway, it'll only affect overall bitrate. Slower settings will achieve a marginally lower bitrate for the same quality target. But you end up wasting a lot of time to save a tiny amount of hard drive space. Also, a CRF of 18 is going to give you a pretty huge file, and honestly, if you're going to make an enormous file with DTS-MA audio, why not just keep the original video stream anyway? HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 12:09 on Jan 10, 2015 |
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Jan 10, 2015 12:04
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I'm looking for recommendations for some benchmarking/stress-testing software to test my GPU and CPU, GPU specifically. I figure this is an appropriate place to ask? Trying to pin down some odd issues I'm having. HOTS Thread for the curious.
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Jan 10, 2015 22:03
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HalloKitty posted:Don't use placebo, you're just wasting time; there's a reason it has this name. Just use it on a faster setting, slow or medium. It doesn't affect quality since you're supplying a quality target anyway, it'll only affect overall bitrate. Slower settings will achieve a marginally lower bitrate for the same quality target. But you end up wasting a lot of time to save a tiny amount of hard drive space. Setting the preset to medium has made encoding time tolerable though. Thanks for that. Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Jan 11, 2015 |
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Jan 10, 2015 23:50
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Teledahn posted:I'm looking for recommendations for some benchmarking/stress-testing software to test my GPU and CPU, GPU specifically. I figure this is an appropriate place to ask?
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Jan 11, 2015 01:10
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I got a Dell laptop that I'm trying to fix for a client. They wanted just a windows reinstall, but I can't get the thing to power on. It doesn't have a power cord, but I can power it in for short bursts. Like if I hold the power button to turn it on, it'll stay on then turn off after that standard 'hold power button to hard shutdown' time limit. If I just tap that power button it'll turn on then right back off. The duration that the PC stays on is directly related to the length of the press of the power button.
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Jan 11, 2015 07:43
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Have you actually tried a power brick? Sounds like the battery is dead (possibly bad).
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Jan 11, 2015 14:30
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Brother-in-law gave me his laptop because it had become absurdly slow and a complete reinstall of Windows didn't help. I checked everything out and I'm pretty sure it's the hard drive itself: when I connect it via a SATA-USB-bridge to my desktop and run CrystalDiskMark, it's performing only about half as well as other drives that I test that way. Couldn't find any errors or faulty clusters on any partition, so I removed the partitions on it and full-reformatted part of it back to NTFS, but the new partition is still portraying the same symptoms (similar benchmark performance and no errors to be found). Does anyone have some tips on things that I haven't thought of to try before I go out to buy a new drive?
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Jan 11, 2015 17:38
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With modern HDDs though you will not see errors, the firmware on the drive is performing repairs and moving blocks around hence the slow performance. I think theoretically if you keep on performing scans of good sectors and wait for the SMART counters to settle you would have a usable disk. In reality it is likely the disk has attained some borderline state that sectors are randomly failing everywhere and the firmware is going to be working overtime until something serious is lost and it is completely non-functional.
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Jan 11, 2015 18:00
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Jolan posted:Brother-in-law gave me his laptop because it had become absurdly slow and a complete reinstall of Windows didn't help. I checked everything out and I'm pretty sure it's the hard drive itself: when I connect it via a SATA-USB-bridge to my desktop and run CrystalDiskMark, it's performing only about half as well as other drives that I test that way. Couldn't find any errors or faulty clusters on any partition, so I removed the partitions on it and full-reformatted part of it back to NTFS, but the new partition is still portraying the same symptoms (similar benchmark performance and no errors to be found). Does anyone have some tips on things that I haven't thought of to try before I go out to buy a new drive?
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Jan 11, 2015 18:10
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Just to make sure I don't fry anything, but if my wireless adapter says to plug it into a PCI Express x1 slot, but it's compatible with x16, it means it's perfectly fine to plug it into the x16 slot on my Z97? At first, the wildly different sizes threw me off, but just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything that would cause a problem.
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Jan 11, 2015 18:29
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Yeah, it should work without issue. I did just that in a small form factor Optiplex 960 that I was re-purposing for a computer-on-wheels at work. Works much better than the crappy USB WiFi adapter it replaced.
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Jan 11, 2015 18:49
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Karl Sharks posted:Just to make sure I don't fry anything, but if my wireless adapter says to plug it into a PCI Express x1 slot, but it's compatible with x16, it means it's perfectly fine to plug it into the x16 slot on my Z97? At first, the wildly different sizes threw me off, but just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything that would cause a problem.
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Jan 11, 2015 18:52
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Alereon posted:What motherboard do you have and what slot are you wanting to connect it to? You can use the lower x16 (x4 electrical) slot just fine, but using either of the upper X16 (x8 electrical) slots will cut bandwidth to the videocard in half. The upper slots share 16 lanes from the CPU, so installing the second device cuts both slots to x8 each, and the lower slots have lanes from the chipset. It would be one of the lower two, listed as 16_2 or 16_3, the 16_1 slot has my video card already plugged in and takes up two spaces.
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Jan 11, 2015 19:23
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Karl Sharks posted:It would be one of the lower two, listed as 16_2 or 16_3, the 16_1 slot has my video card already plugged in and takes up two spaces.
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Jan 11, 2015 19:35
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Alereon posted:You didn't say what motherboard you have, but I'm going to assume 16_3 is the x4 slot so you can use that one. Using 16_2 would cut the videocard in 16_1 down to x8. That's not a BIG deal, people do it when setting up SLI normally, but why eat the performance loss if you don't have to? I should have been more specific, it's an Asus Z97, so it has 3 x16 slots and one x1 slot. It goes x16, x1, x16, x16 from top to bottom. So either of the lower two slots would be fine it seems. Thanks for the help!
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Jan 11, 2015 19:50
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How do I go about erasing a hard drive in order to give it to a friend? Its a SSD so is there a guide to do that?
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Jan 12, 2015 00:05
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