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EbolaIvory
Jul 6, 2007

NOM NOM NOM

some texas redneck posted:

I'm running a higher end version of that generation stereo (DEH-X8600BH).

The included microphone, to put it nicely, sucks. I had to mount mine to my visor to get people to hear me decently. Beyond that, Bluetooth works flawlessly. I had the same issue with my last Pioneer, they just seem to use crappy microphones. I will say I had issues with my old Pioneer and my old Galaxy Nexus playing nice - the phone would lock up constantly or reboot when I shut off the stereo or engine, on stock firmware and 3rd party.

Google Music, Slacker, Pandora, etc all respond to the Bluetooth commands, and at least on mine, the stereo is capable of displaying the artist/song/album (mine can be set to show song name, song name + artist, or song name + artist + album - I keep it on the last of those). I haven't tried any of the Pandora integration, or even tried plugging anything into the USB cable (not sure if the one you're looking at has one, but mine has a rear USB input and a 6 ft long USB cable with a female end that I tossed in the glove box - in case a friend wants to bring a flash drive full of music).

As a delivery driver, it's nice being able to fire up Slacker and Google Maps at the same time - Maps interrupts long enough to inform me of my next turn.

Month later, I'm finally about to pull the trigger again. Same drat headunit

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130DX460BT/Pioneer-DEH-X4600BT.html?tp=5684

Other than the mic being potentially poo poo, Any major cons or anything? Id prefer it to be able to be green, But whatever. Seems to do everything I need. At most I'm adding 1 sub later.

I think I may pull the trigger on one of the Pioneers either way. I wanna replace the door and rear deck speakers and 50 bucks for 4 "better than stock" speakers with wiring harnesses is just hard to pass up.

Just tell me ill be happy. Unless thats a giant heap of poo poo and someone can point me at a better option other than the DEH-X8600BH? Honestly, I'm pretty close to just paying the extra for it. Faceplates removable yes?


EDIT:

So while shopping for the headunit. And trying to "cheap out" even more. Ive found I cant really, and now I'm sub shopping.

Ive ran all kinds of insane dumb poo poo but this go around I have a goal.

Vehicle. 2000 Grand Marquis.
Ideally. 1 Sub. Something that can hit most music types (mostly Rap/Fake Bass), but I can crank the poo poo out of and rattle my brain some. Not full on crazy poo poo, But you know. The eye wobbles.

Thing is. I'm used to cheating with hatchbacks and SUVs. So while my Focus had a pretty limited system (400 or something RMS), It still banged because of how it was setup.

Theres a poo poo ton of brands these days. And I'm all fine with going a bit cheap if I can still get what I want. I mean, My blazer had a temp sub (moving trashed my nice one) from walmart, it was one of those 29.99 jobs. It did fine, it wasnt super loud, but it hit some notes ok ya know? So I'm not obnoxiously picky, I'm going to be streaming over bluetooth and using cloud based music so super "audiophile levels of OCD" about sound quality dont matter. I just want the inside of my cabin to beat hard and not sound like poo poo.

Throw me some Ideas I guess. Budget is semi whatever. Id rather keep it cheapish if possible. But I'm not against spending a bit more. I've cobbled together a few misc things between 150-300 bucks. Keep in mind, This has to include something to hold said sub. So Sub, Box, Amp. Wiring I can get for free.

Something I would spend a few bucks more for. In the trunk of the Marquis. The spare tire is on a shelf sort of thing. To the left of that, theres tons of space to shove a small box. Any companies out there sell a box that fits there maybe? Its weird, But I actually kind of want to not fill my whole trunk with subwoofers and poo poo.

EbolaIvory fucked around with this message at 09:53 on Dec 24, 2014

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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Aflicted posted:

That looks closer to a double DIN opening.

Believe me, it's not - that's a Ranger/Explorer setup, it's 1.5DIN at best.

I'm trying to keep my head unit in the WJ for now just because I like the way it integrates with the steering wheel, but I might eventually bite the bullet and spend $60 on a steering wheel adapter.

West SAAB Story
Mar 13, 2014

by Athanatos

(and can't post for 278 days!)

IOwnCalculus posted:

I'm trying to keep my head unit in the WJ for now just because I like the way it integrates with the steering wheel, but I might eventually bite the bullet and spend $60 on a steering wheel adapter.

How many wires from the steering wheel? :colbert:

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

IOwnCalculus posted:

Believe me, it's not - that's a Ranger/Explorer setup, it's 1.5DIN at best.

I'm trying to keep my head unit in the WJ for now just because I like the way it integrates with the steering wheel, but I might eventually bite the bullet and spend $60 on a steering wheel adapter.

Yeah it's an '04 Ranger. I've ordered that Audiovox hardwired modulator for my dad for xmas, I'll let y'all know how it sounds once I get it in hand and installed.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
oops

Cage fucked around with this message at 08:14 on Dec 25, 2014

Aflicted
Jun 9, 2007

IOwnCalculus posted:

Believe me, it's not - that's a Ranger/Explorer setup, it's 1.5DIN at best.

I'm trying to keep my head unit in the WJ for now just because I like the way it integrates with the steering wheel, but I might eventually bite the bullet and spend $60 on a steering wheel adapter.

I have an ASWC-1 sitting in my desk drawer if you need a nudge to go over the cliff on that one. :)

MikeyTsi
Jan 11, 2009

There's a useful question: does anyone know of a good/recommended car microphone?

EbolaIvory
Jul 6, 2007

NOM NOM NOM
Totally ended up buying.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113BT362U/Kenwood-KDC-BT362U.html

Ended up keeping my old box and amp so I'm going to just push the stock garbage into the ground for a few weeks shopping for speakers.

Anyone own one?

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

What is this??
Are you some kind of hypnotist??
Grimey Drawer
nvm

BANME.sh fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Jan 13, 2015

Friar Zucchini
Aug 6, 2010

I just bought an '01 Suburban with a subwoofer in back that rattles a lot. Does this usually mean it's shot and it needs to be replaced? It's behind a huge single-piece trim panel on the left side, it'd probably be a pain to just get that piece off. I can't tell if the speaker grille is removable but it doesn't look like it from the outside. The car used to be a fire department vehicle and there are a couple screws stuck into the trim panel several inches ahead of the subwoofer, maybe there is*/was some radio equipment installed there - it sounds like the noise is only coming from the speaker itself and not anywhere nearby. That's also the general region where the jack is but again, that's not where the noise is coming from. Should I pull that all apart just to check or would it be safer to just assume it's dead and I need a new one?

edit: If all else fails, I could just ditch the subwoofer altogether since the rest of the speakers seem to be in good shape.

another edit: I say there may still be something there because there's still a headlight flasher module under the hood, it's just not hooked up anymore.

Friar Zucchini fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Jan 15, 2015

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

2012 Subaru Impreza. I have my stock head unit running through an Alpine KTP-445u amp. This is spliced in with a harness so there is no modification to the factory wiring. I am installing a set of JBL-P660c speakers. Is there any reason to not use the stock wiring to attach to the crossovers?

Christobevii3
Jul 3, 2006

Friar Zucchini posted:

I just bought an '01 Suburban with a subwoofer in back that rattles a lot. Does this usually mean it's shot and it needs to be replaced? It's behind a huge single-piece trim panel on the left side, it'd probably be a pain to just get that piece off. I can't tell if the speaker grille is removable but it doesn't look like it from the outside. The car used to be a fire department vehicle and there are a couple screws stuck into the trim panel several inches ahead of the subwoofer, maybe there is*/was some radio equipment installed there - it sounds like the noise is only coming from the speaker itself and not anywhere nearby. That's also the general region where the jack is but again, that's not where the noise is coming from. Should I pull that all apart just to check or would it be safer to just assume it's dead and I need a new one?

edit: If all else fails, I could just ditch the subwoofer altogether since the rest of the speakers seem to be in good shape.

another edit: I say there may still be something there because there's still a headlight flasher module under the hood, it's just not hooked up anymore.

Is it the subwoofer or all the plastic chevy clips that like to shake? Should be easy to take all the panels off to replace the sub, the cover will be a part of that plastic. I think they are 8" 2ohm subs so a dual 4ohm would work. Probably want a shallow mount too so might take it apart first, test away from plastic with some extra wire, then measure for what you need to order.

BoostCreep
May 3, 2004

Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?
Grimey Drawer
I just installed a JVC head unit in my 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Infinity Gold System) and I'm getting a weird crackle sound from the rear speakers, specifically the passenger side. I used a plug-in wiring harness and tried two different chassis grounds. The weird thing is, the crackle isn't always there. It happens with the car on or off with the key in ACC. It changes in intensity when I push or wiggle the head unit, but I checked the connections and everything looks solid.

It also seems to build intensity slowly before sounding like a loud mechanical popping coming from the speaker, then it goes away. Then slowly builds again and repeats. Sometimes.

There are no issues when I reinstall the factory head unit, and this JVC unit was installed in my old '01 XJ Cherokee with the same harness and it had no problems there.

I am out of my element with audio, so any ideas would be appreciated.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





How do you have the head unit hooked up to the amp? Bypassed, speaker level, or preamp outputs?

Edit: I see Viggen is off his meds but on his wallet. :lol:

43% Burnt
Aug 5, 2004
DID I STUTTER
Hi guys, I have a question. I have a 4Runner that has a JL 300W amp pushing the door speakers (JL XR series) and a 10" 200W Bazooka Tube subwoofer. I recently got myself a new headunit because the old one (Pioneer DEH-7700MP) was starting to give up the ghost. I tore my dash apart and I immediately realized that the old headunit has 3 sets of outputs (front, rear, and subwoofer), while the new one (DEH-X3600UI) only has two (front and rear/subwoofer). I guess I need to get some RCA splitters, but I want to know the best way to hook it up. Should I split the rear/subwoofer output and hook up both the rear speakers and subwoofer, or should I split the front output and hook up the front/rear speakers to that output and hook up the sub to the rear/subwoofer output?

Sorry if this is an ignorant question; I didn't install the old setup myself.

BoostCreep
May 3, 2004

Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?
Grimey Drawer

IOwnCalculus posted:

How do you have the head unit hooked up to the amp? Bypassed, speaker level, or preamp outputs?


I have no idea. I know basically nothing about car audio. I took the stock head unit out, connected a harness plug to the factory harness and then the new JVC unit, and connected the antenna. I'll take some photos to help illustrate what's going on. There are 3 plugs that are no longer plugged in from the factory wiring. One is the 10 disc CD changer, one is a black one that clips onto the back of the stock unit and one is a white one with two tiny holes on the end.

That's not very helpful, I know. I'll take pictures.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Then you're probably feeding speaker-level audio into the factory amp if you didn't do any mucking around down at the amp as well. The odd thing is, as far as I can tell this "should" work, because I think that's what the factory head unit actually does - people swap across all of the late-'90s / early-'00s Mopar head units all the time and yet I've never seen anyone say "this head unit will only work in cars with/without the Infinity amplifier".

But, if you read wjjeeps they mention using a line-level converter when dealing with an aftermarket headunit and the factory external amp. So it might still be needed? I'm not 100% on this myself.

BoostCreep
May 3, 2004

Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?
Grimey Drawer
The speakers work as it's currently wired, and they are just as loud and clear as the stock setup, only there's weird crackling/popping/static. It changes as I touch the head unit itself, so it feels like it should be caused by a bad ground or connection on the back of the unit, but everything is nice and secure. I might just give up and buy a new head unit and wiring harness from crutchfield and hope it works. I hate dealing with audio stuff, I just want to be able to stream Spotify to my car speakers since my super sweet 90's 10 disc changer doesn't work anymore.

Friar Zucchini
Aug 6, 2010

Christobevii3 posted:

Is it the subwoofer or all the plastic chevy clips that like to shake? Should be easy to take all the panels off to replace the sub, the cover will be a part of that plastic. I think they are 8" 2ohm subs so a dual 4ohm would work. Probably want a shallow mount too so might take it apart first, test away from plastic with some extra wire, then measure for what you need to order.

Can't tell what exactly is making the noise, I'll have to take it apart and take a look eventually.

BJA
Apr 11, 2006

It has to start somewhere
It has to start sometime
What better place than here
What better time than now
My wife has a 2008 BMW 135i, with the "BMW Professional" system, it has bluetooth, but only works for phone calls not streaming audio. It also doesn't have the USB/iPoD adapter, just the line-in. Is there something we can do without losing the steering wheel controls / built in bluetooth / etc while either using streaming bluetooth, or hooking up an ipod that can be controlled through the stereo/steering wheel controls )and kept charged if possible)?

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

EbolaIvory posted:

Month later, I'm finally about to pull the trigger again. Same drat headunit

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130DX460BT/Pioneer-DEH-X4600BT.html?tp=5684

Other than the mic being potentially poo poo, Any major cons or anything? Id prefer it to be able to be green, But whatever. Seems to do everything I need. At most I'm adding 1 sub later.

I know I'm hilariously late on this, but that head unit has configurable colors. Green isn't a problem. It's discontinued, if you haven't snagged it yet.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Can someone explain what this is?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMdkUzihVkA

This buzzing is coming from the right rear speaker. It starts after about 20 minutes. It keeps going if I turn off the head unit. It goes away if I turn up the volume really loud. My assumption is it's my Alpine KTP-445U amp. A bad ground? I did NASA style soldering to all of the connections and it's been in there for about a year with no problems.

Edit- It's the amp, but I don't know why it's the amp.

FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Jan 31, 2015

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Does the frequency of the buzzing change with engine RPM?

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Raluek posted:

Does the frequency of the buzzing change with engine RPM?

It does not. It is constant. However, it is a higher frequency when the engine is off and the radio is on.

I tried various inputs, its not the head unit. I even unplugged the head unit from the harness and it still continued with the amp plugged in. Its definitely the amp. After about 20 minutes from cold, it starts with a few slow clicks. Then it picks up speed until its at a full buzz in the video. If you shut off the power, it will do it again, but it wont take as long to get started. I'm thinking something inside the amp is getting warmed up and when it reaches temperature it starts to go. But I don't know about these internals.

Other things to note -
When you turn the volume up, it works normal. This is more prevalent through the higher sound frequencies. Lower/bassier tones will not stop it from buzzing.
It only send the buzzing to the right rear speaker when the stereo is off. The buzzing doesn't go to the other speakers, but it cuts through their normal audio.
I've been noticing that when you turn the car on, the right rear speaker gives a little pop. I figured this was just the amp powering on, maybe it was a bad thing?

FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Jan 31, 2015

Scrapez
Feb 27, 2004

I'm looking to add a head unit, amp and speaker to my motorcycle. I already have a set of DC Gold 4" speakers that I'll be using and planning to add a 2 channel micro amp to power them.

I'm looking for a head unit that doesn't have an internal amp and for that matter it doesn't need to play CDs either. I'd like something that can interface with my Android based phone if possible. It appears that a lot of the Pandora enabled head units only work with iPhones, are there any that work with Android?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Scrapez posted:

I'm looking to add a head unit, amp and speaker to my motorcycle. I already have a set of DC Gold 4" speakers that I'll be using and planning to add a 2 channel micro amp to power them.

I'm looking for a head unit that doesn't have an internal amp and for that matter it doesn't need to play CDs either. I'd like something that can interface with my Android based phone if possible. It appears that a lot of the Pandora enabled head units only work with iPhones, are there any that work with Android?

What about those little Bluetooth car adapters? The low tech option would be to just plug a 1/8" jack into your phone and not have a head unit at all. Or did you want an FM tuner as well?

ExplodingSims
Aug 17, 2010

RAGDOLL
FLIPPIN IN A MOVIE
HOT DAMN
THINK I MADE A POOPIE


This might be a bit too specific for this thread, but I've got a 2005 Explorer, and I recently changed the radio over to one from a higher end model.
I upgraded to the audiophile head unit, (Still a factory head unit) which comes with an option for satellite and aux input, but only comes with a standard port in the back.

I've read that the AUX button is supposed to be used for like DVD players and such, but can be used to phones, but I can't seem to figure out how all this is wired in. I've found some people saying there's an adapter that plugs in the back, but I can't seem to find one, as most posts are now dead links. Anyone know of such a thing that'll fit a 2005?

And if I used such an adapter, is it still possible to wire in satellite later?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
No idea about the satellite functionality afterwards, but the model everyone used to use is the PIE FRDN-AUX and its derivatives. There are a bunch of them depending on which head unit out of which year and so forth. I have one of them that ended up not working for me because the head unit didn't support the changer functionality, but if you want to dick with it to see what it'll do I can throw it in a flat rate box for you if I can find it.

ExplodingSims
Aug 17, 2010

RAGDOLL
FLIPPIN IN A MOVIE
HOT DAMN
THINK I MADE A POOPIE


Raluek posted:

No idea about the satellite functionality afterwards, but the model everyone used to use is the PIE FRDN-AUX and its derivatives. There are a bunch of them depending on which head unit out of which year and so forth. I have one of them that ended up not working for me because the head unit didn't support the changer functionality, but if you want to dick with it to see what it'll do I can throw it in a flat rate box for you if I can find it.

That'd be cool. Do you happen to have a picture of it or at least the connectors on it? You can email me at explodingsims2@gmail.com for shipping stuff.

Scrapez
Feb 27, 2004

Raluek posted:

What about those little Bluetooth car adapters? The low tech option would be to just plug a 1/8" jack into your phone and not have a head unit at all. Or did you want an FM tuner as well?

I could go this route but then I'd have to control volume with my phone which isn't the easiest while riding a motorcycle. I could do just an EQ with an aux-in but if I do that, I figure I might as well go with a head unit that way I can just connect to it via bluetooth from my phone and not have to deal with wires.

I like listening to Pandora but most of the HUs I'm seeing are saying that the Pandora functionality only works with iPhones. It would be nice to have it interface with my Android device so I could skip songs and such from the HU.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

ExplodingSims posted:

That'd be cool. Do you happen to have a picture of it or at least the connectors on it? You can email me at explodingsims2@gmail.com for shipping stuff.

Let me see if I can lay hands on it, first. There's a non-zero chance that I left it at my parents' house over Christmas.

Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal
Asked this in the stupid question thread too, but maybe this is a better place. Can I get out a Kenwood stereo without having the special keys?

edit: got it out with computer parts per STR's recommendation in the other thread. Nothing wrong with the HU wiring. Gotta figure out how Mercedes are wired. :(

Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 14:22 on Feb 6, 2015

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Scrapez posted:

I like listening to Pandora but most of the HUs I'm seeing are saying that the Pandora functionality only works with iPhones. It would be nice to have it interface with my Android device so I could skip songs and such from the HU.

Most newer head units also support Pandora with Android as long as it's connected over Bluetooth. I know for sure Pioneer head units do.

That said, since it'll be on a motorcycle, I'd suggest going with a marine-rated head unit - they're meant for boats, and designed to deal with the occasional splash of water - something you're likely to run into at some point (either rain while uncovered, or running into rain while riding).

If you just want to skip songs, pretty much any Bluetooth head unit with A2DP (music streaming) will do that, Pandora or not. My Pioneer does this with Google Play Music, Winamp, Slacker, Pandora, etc just fine on my Android phone, as did my previous Pioneer (~4 years ago). My previous one was certified for Pandora only on iphones, but worked just fine with my Android (same apps) for skipping between songs. Current Pioneer works exactly the same way, and it claims both Android and iPhone compatibility. Android only over Bluetooth, iPhone only over USB (making it more fun, the USB port is on the back, so the USB extension cable is tucked into the glove box, in case I ever need it for firmware upgrades or if friends bring along an iphone or thumb drive).

Scrapez
Feb 27, 2004

some texas redneck posted:

Most newer head units also support Pandora with Android as long as it's connected over Bluetooth. I know for sure Pioneer head units do.

That said, since it'll be on a motorcycle, I'd suggest going with a marine-rated head unit - they're meant for boats, and designed to deal with the occasional splash of water - something you're likely to run into at some point (either rain while uncovered, or running into rain while riding).

If you just want to skip songs, pretty much any Bluetooth head unit with A2DP (music streaming) will do that, Pandora or not. My Pioneer does this with Google Play Music, Winamp, Slacker, Pandora, etc just fine on my Android phone, as did my previous Pioneer (~4 years ago). My previous one was certified for Pandora only on iphones, but worked just fine with my Android (same apps) for skipping between songs. Current Pioneer works exactly the same way, and it claims both Android and iPhone compatibility. Android only over Bluetooth, iPhone only over USB (making it more fun, the USB port is on the back, so the USB extension cable is tucked into the glove box, in case I ever need it for firmware upgrades or if friends bring along an iphone or thumb drive).

Interesting. I have limited experience with bluetooth. I thought it just streamed the audio. You're saying that it allows control of the streaming device as well? So I could use buttons on the HU to control the playback of my android phone which is connected via bluetooth? If that's the case, that is perfect.

duffmensch
Feb 20, 2004

Duffman is thrusting in the direction of the problem!
Does anyone have a recommendation for a double din stereo for a Sienna that has a readable display in the desert sunlight? I bought a JVC single din unit and its unreadable in the daytime because it just isn't bright enough.

Christobevii3
Jul 3, 2006

FogHelmut posted:

Can someone explain what this is?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMdkUzihVkA

This buzzing is coming from the right rear speaker. It starts after about 20 minutes. It keeps going if I turn off the head unit. It goes away if I turn up the volume really loud. My assumption is it's my Alpine KTP-445U amp. A bad ground? I did NASA style soldering to all of the connections and it's been in there for about a year with no problems.

Edit- It's the amp, but I don't know why it's the amp.

Swap the wires for the rear speakers, if it follows, then swap the input to amp, if it swamps again then the amp, if not the headunit.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Cross posting from the Miata thread because this works on any car.

How to turn your doors into a speaker enclosure (with bonus manual window conversion)















FIN



Can you tell there used to be a map pocket on the door panel?

Speakers are just a pair of Alpine 6.5's with a high RMS (I think 80 watts) and the bass response now is incredible. Works out great for the Miata because there's no room for a sub and I don't feel the need for one now.

MrCodeDude
Aug 31, 2005
I had some parts laying around and have decided to build a cooler boom-box, but am completely out of my league in terms of whether or not I need an amp and what size battery I need.

Parts I have:
  • (2) Infinity Reference 9633cf 6" x 9" 300W speakers (AMZ link)
  • (2) Infinity Reference 6032cf 6.5" 180W speakers (AMZ link)
  • Alpine UTE-42BT Head Unit (AMZ link)

I hooked all four speakers up to the head unit, powered it with a spare 12V, 7Ah battery (similar to this) and everything worked well in my test setup.

Installed everything in the cooler and while everything sounds pretty good, but I'm looking to beef up the setup. I know I need to bring in an amp and a new battery, but am kind of out of my league here with the calculations.

I'm looking at the Alpine MRV-F300 4-Channel Car Amplifier, would this be a good purchase? In the specs, it says:
  • 75W RMS X 4 (2Ω, 14.4V, ≤1% THD+N)
  • 50W RMS X 4 (4Ω, 14.4V, ≤1% THD+N)

Both pairs of the Infinity speakers are 2-ohm, and while the 6x9's are 100W RMS, 75W is much better than the 18W provided by the head unit.

And with the purchase of this (or similar) amp, what kind of battery should I be looking at? Crutchfield used a 750W, 12V, 22Ah battery, but I'm thinking that might be excessively beefy for what I need.

Any recommendations/suggestions greatly appreciated!

parasyte
Aug 13, 2003

Nobody wants to die except the suicides. They're no fun.

MrCodeDude posted:

I'm looking at the Alpine MRV-F300 4-Channel Car Amplifier, would this be a good purchase? In the specs, it says:
  • 75W RMS X 4 (2Ω, 14.4V, ≤1% THD+N)
  • 50W RMS X 4 (4Ω, 14.4V, ≤1% THD+N)

Both pairs of the Infinity speakers are 2-ohm, and while the 6x9's are 100W RMS, 75W is much better than the 18W provided by the head unit.

And with the purchase of this (or similar) amp, what kind of battery should I be looking at? Crutchfield used a 750W, 12V, 22Ah battery, but I'm thinking that might be excessively beefy for what I need.

Any recommendations/suggestions greatly appreciated!

I might be way off here but 75x4 = 300W at full volume, which at the quoted 14.4v is about 21A; at 12v nominal it's 25A. How loud do you want it and how long do you want it to run? With a single one of those batteries you'd get somewhat less than an hour at full volume but substantially more at less than full volume.

Edit: actually it's RC is 28 so you'd get less than half an hour at full volume, since RC is how many minutes at 25A before the battery hits 10.5v.

parasyte fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Feb 10, 2015

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MrCodeDude
Aug 31, 2005

parasyte posted:

I might be way off here but 75x4 = 300W at full volume, which at the quoted 14.4v is about 21A; at 12v nominal it's 25A. How loud do you want it and how long do you want it to run? With a single one of those batteries you'd get somewhat less than an hour at full volume but substantially more at less than full volume.

If full volume through the head unit is 18W, I can't imagine ever getting above half volume through the amplifier.

40W x 4 = 160W @ 14.4v = 11A, which is two hours at full capacity? Even if the power draw is only 160W from a 750W PSU?

That 7Ah battery has lasted over two hours on full charge.

MrCodeDude fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Feb 10, 2015

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