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Before anyone goes in and asks for tully, it's pronounced "tool". It's like, tutu material.
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Jan 20, 2015 19:53
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serious gaylord posted:As easily available in the UK? Apparently so - http://www.biostrip.co.uk/biostrip-20-paint-stripper-500ml-tub.html May be worth a shot, I never did get around to getting hold of Power Spray for my eBay salvage.
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Jan 20, 2015 20:15
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Just use denatured alcohol. Haven't met paint it won't strip yet
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Jan 20, 2015 20:24
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Frobbe posted:Just use denatured alcohol. Haven't met paint it won't strip yet AKA methylated spirits in the UK (the purple stuff) - but does it melt GW plastics or resin? I use it to clean RC bodies I paint, but that's polycarbonate plastic...different kettle of fish.
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Jan 20, 2015 21:14
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madpanda posted:Do any brick and mortar stores in the US carry future? I've tried target/home depot/meijers etc. In the US it's called Pledge Floor Care Multi Surface.
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Jan 20, 2015 21:17
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krushgroove posted:AKA methylated spirits in the UK (the purple stuff) - but does it melt GW plastics or resin? I use it to clean RC bodies I paint, but that's polycarbonate plastic...different kettle of fish. It's safe to use on plastics or resin. I used to use it but I find simple green to be better. Haven't tried the fairy stripper spray or whatever .
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Jan 20, 2015 21:30
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El Estrago Bonito posted:In the US it's called Pledge Floor Care Multi Surface. Yep, sorry should have specified, figured it was just called Future in painting threads even though the name/label has changed many times. http://www.amazon.com/SC-Johnson-Pledge-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C This is what I have been keeping an eye out for.
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Jan 20, 2015 22:09
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Just get it off Amazon?
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Jan 20, 2015 22:31
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I want to say I got mine from Wal-Mart.
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Jan 20, 2015 22:32
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Big Willy Style posted:It's safe to use on plastics or resin. I used to use it but I find simple green to be better. Haven't tried the fairy stripper spray or whatever . It won't ruin resin straight away but a week+ will wreck Forge world resin. I learned this the hard way. Plastic gives no fucks
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Jan 20, 2015 22:38
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Ethanol will over time penetrate the resin, and essentially lubricate the molecular crystal structure. You are better using something like iso-propanol (happens to be in a number of products like Sterillium which also strips paint).
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Jan 20, 2015 23:59
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serious gaylord posted:As easily available in the UK? Yeah, made by a UK company as far as I know. You can get it from Amazon in 500ml pots for around £8 as I recall. Brush it on generously then let it sit for an hour. Non-toxic, non-irritant. Water soluble. In my experience it's basically a miracle stripper. Just remember to properly rinse the models afterwards to make sure any residue is off. It's specifically designed for stripping paints as an answer to the EU saying "That incredibly hazardous toxic poo poo? That's dumb." Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Jan 21, 2015 |
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Jan 21, 2015 00:25
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Yeah, made by a UK company as far as I know. You can get it from Amazon in 500ml pots for around £8 as I recall. Brush it on generously then let it sit for an hour. Non-toxic, non-irritant. Water soluble. In my experience it's basically a miracle stripper. Just remember to properly rinse the models afterwards to make sure any residue is off. Neat, I'll keep it in mind once my dettol and fairy runs out. Hopefully I won't be stripping anything any time soon.
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Jan 21, 2015 01:08
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El Estrago Bonito posted:In the US it's called Pledge Floor Care Multi Surface. Any acrylic floor wax will do, most likely. You can also go to Michaels and get acrylic paint medium and use that, or if you are feeling really cheap distilled water (ONLY distilled - you don't want minerals in it) can be used and is 99 cents a gallon. It's not as good but can work in a pinch.
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Jan 21, 2015 02:12
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madpanda posted:Yep, sorry should have specified, figured it was just called Future in painting threads even though the name/label has changed many times. TBH it's worth just shelling out for a bottle from Amazon even tho it will be like half as much at a Walmart. You will never ever in a million years finish a bottle of that poo poo, it goes such a long way. I've had my bottle for the better part of ten years and gotten maybe half of the way through it, even after using it to seal an actual piece of wood for an unrelated Mandolin project. For mini's you can water it down slightly as well and if you're airbrushing it can go on so thin that it would take thousands of minis to burn through a 12 dollar container.
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Jan 21, 2015 03:50
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I dunno, I'm 3/4th through the bottle I bought 2 years ago. Then again I paint whole armies at a time so that might be a bit skewed.
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Jan 21, 2015 04:30
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madpanda posted:Yep, sorry should have specified, figured it was just called Future in painting threads even though the name/label has changed many times. What do you use that stuff for?
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Jan 21, 2015 05:20
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Magres posted:What do you use that stuff for? It's gloss varnish, you put it on your minis to make them tough and hard to damage and then you use matte varnish/dullcote to make them not shiny again.
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Jan 21, 2015 05:24
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I'm a convert to future, because it's not just gloss varnish. Varnish provides a nice little barrier to damage, but future is on a whole nother level. Chipping used to be a problem for me even with 3 coats of varnish but not aince I've been using future.
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Jan 21, 2015 05:39
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I've had warjacks get knocked off the table hard enough to bust apart at the joints but not have the paint itself scratched because of a Future coat. poo poo's nuts.
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Jan 21, 2015 06:01
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So Future could be blasted onto a model via airbrush before doing oil washes? That'd be fine?
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Jan 21, 2015 06:55
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BlackIronHeart posted:So Future could be blasted onto a model via airbrush before doing oil washes? That'd be fine? Yup, I do it all the time.
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Jan 21, 2015 07:02
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Fantastic, thanks!
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Jan 21, 2015 07:04
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El Estrago Bonito posted:It's gloss varnish, you put it on your minis to make them tough and hard to damage and then you use matte varnish/dullcote to make them not shiny again. Awesome! I've actually been super concerned about my mans chipping after I put all that hard work into them, it's good to hear that this stuff makes them like bullet proof
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Jan 21, 2015 07:48
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This just came up on my facebook wall, I can't use it because it's only on iOs right now and an Android version is waiting for enough requests (link at the bottom!), but I thought someone else might be interested http://products.scriblab.de/paintmyminis/
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Jan 21, 2015 08:03
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Shot with the equivalent of the Hubble space telescope, for models. Two coats of Matte, still glossy.   I like the base.
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Jan 21, 2015 08:23
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Still a WIP and it'll be a few months before it's warm enough outside to prime it, but I've made progress on converting a counts as Sammael for my marines. Ended up grabbing the Puppetswar bike for the starting point.  Planning to paint the legs and left arm as bionics and probably find some more iconography to stick on the side of the hull.
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Jan 21, 2015 08:41
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VendaGoat posted:
That usually means you're not shaking it enough
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Jan 21, 2015 14:53
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El Estrago Bonito posted:It's gloss varnish, you put it on your minis to make them tough and hard to damage and then you use matte varnish/dullcote to make them not shiny again. It's also good for adding to paint to make washes.
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Jan 21, 2015 15:42
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I mix it with India ink and diluted water for black lining, and it's perfect. E: oops, lol. Mix in ink and dilute with water. moths fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Jan 21, 2015 |
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Jan 21, 2015 15:47
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How do you make diluted water? 
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Jan 21, 2015 15:55
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Jan 21, 2015 16:02
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JoshTheStampede posted:How do you make diluted water? You add water to it, duh.
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Jan 21, 2015 16:15
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Miniature Painting/Sculpting/Modelling Megathread (Potentisate your Homeopathic dilutions of acrylic)
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Jan 21, 2015 18:02
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First time trying pigment powders out... why the hell did I wait this long. It's like discovering washes for the first time. E>> I guess the next questions is, what is the best non reflective varnish to seal pigments with? Slandible fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Jan 21, 2015 |
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Jan 21, 2015 19:28
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Frobbe posted:Just use denatured alcohol. Haven't met paint it won't strip yet I found that denatured alcohol won't do poo poo to Krylon, even after a week of soaking.
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Jan 21, 2015 21:57
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Slandible posted:First time trying pigment powders out... why the hell did I wait this long. It's like discovering washes for the first time. Welcome! They are amazing, aren't they? Problem is, you can't seal them in without distorting the color and dusty effect. The best option I've found is to save them until the very end. Then, varnish your model, and while it's still sticky apply the powder. For larger models this is not possible, so I varnish them first, let it dry, apply pigments, and then spray a very thin coat of 90% rubbing alcohol over the surface. This fixes the pigment into place, but with enough force it will still rub off.
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Jan 21, 2015 22:46
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I almost never seal models, but my concern is that any bit of water that might hit it will take them off. Do they stay on unprotected decently, or do you have to seal them in some manner?
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Jan 21, 2015 23:00
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A strong wind can pick up some of the dust unless you really rub it in. If it's going to sit on a display case you don't need to do anything to it, but if you plan to game with it, I would hit them with some rubbing alcohol. It will keep things like a few drops of water from doing anything to them.
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Jan 21, 2015 23:25
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I havent sealed any of mine, but then they dont really leave the cabinet. If you want to stick the powders down without distorting them, hairspray works. You need the stuff that goes on dry though, and be very light about it.
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Jan 21, 2015 23:36
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