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serious gaylord posted:RIP Fairy Power Spray. They changed the key ingredient and now you don't work like you used to. Dettol still works though.
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Jan 21, 2015 23:41
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serious gaylord posted:You need the stuff that goes on dry though, and be very light about it. This part is key, when you spray the stuff on if its too strong it will blow off some of the pigments
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Jan 21, 2015 23:50
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Slandible posted:First time trying pigment powders out... why the hell did I wait this long. It's like discovering washes for the first time. I use Secret Weapon pigment fixer, though I don't know how well that works by itself as I usually use matte varnish on my plastic models, somewhat killing the effect. Other than Petroleum Distillates I have no idea what is in it. 
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Jan 22, 2015 00:13
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thespaceinvader posted:Dettol still works though. the thing about Fairy power spray, and why it was so superior, was that your house/models didnt stink of dettol for weeks.
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Jan 22, 2015 00:31
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Biostrip has almost no smell. Can't remember if I mentioned that.
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Jan 22, 2015 01:07
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Can you get Biostrip outside of the uk? I found http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ready-Strip-1-Qt-Safer-Paint-and-Varnish-Remover-Environmentally-Friendly-65832/100665911 but can't find any info on using it for models/minis. ChaiCalico fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Jan 22, 2015 |
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Jan 22, 2015 01:21
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madpanda posted:Can you get Biostrip outside of the uk? poo poo, hearing all this good poo poo about it kind of makes me want to import some.
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Jan 22, 2015 01:39
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LordAba posted:I use Secret Weapon pigment fixer, though I don't know how well that works by itself as I usually use matte varnish on my plastic models, somewhat killing the effect. Other than Petroleum Distillates I have no idea what is in it. Probably alcohol, spirit, or something with silicone. All of those things can fix pigments in place.
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Jan 22, 2015 01:55
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Skarsnik posted:That usually means you're not shaking it enough Ten minutes. If I need to shake it more I'm buying something to do it for me.
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Jan 22, 2015 02:03
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It started with such noble goals, and then it...just went sideways somehow.    There's a lot of degrees of difficulty here. I'm painting a model without reference to somebody's better model, so I don't have ideas I can use. I'm painting a Mythos monster, so wild colors are to be expected, but they're difficult to harmonize. I'm painting lots of broad surfaces without a good idea of how to paint a texture. And this is a WIP. But it just got away from me, and now I have to strip it.
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Jan 22, 2015 04:11
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Darren MacLennan posted:It started with such noble goals, and then it...just went sideways somehow. The colors need to be blended into each other. If you could do intermediate gradients and blends I think it would be cool. The harsh color boundaries just mean it looks like ... That.
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Jan 22, 2015 04:34
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Darren MacLennan posted:It started with such noble goals, and then it...just went sideways somehow. I just got my Cthulhu Wars box as well. I bought mine in a major part to work on my airbrush skills since it's a ton of models of various size and the color bleed is a little more forgivable because Mythos. Aside from Zero's advice, I would add that, if you actually plan to play the game, I would take some time to plan out a color scheme for each faction so that it's easier to identify whose stuff is whose in the middle of a game with 40 figures on the board. I think your Nyarlathotep is occupying a bunch of different color spaces - like is that faction going to trend blue or purple? I mean, to a degree, you could just paint each base a certain color, but I think if you're going to play the game, I would consider how the paint jobs will facilitate play.
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Jan 22, 2015 08:16
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So I bought some Krylon primer for my Bones and it's still tacky weeks later. What's the deal?
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Jan 22, 2015 08:59
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natetimm posted:So I bought some Krylon primer for my Bones and it's still tacky weeks later. What's the deal? Bones hate (some) spray primers. Google Bones and primer. I just avoid experimenting completely and paint them with brush-on Vallejo primer.
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Jan 22, 2015 09:11
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natetimm posted:So I bought some Krylon primer for my Bones and it's still tacky weeks later. What's the deal? Some primers work, some don't.
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Jan 22, 2015 09:12
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I ended up getting 5.15mm piano wire and I completely underestimated this thing. It's way too stiff to bend with normal tools and I've no idea where to start with even cutting it down to size.
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Jan 22, 2015 11:20
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ijyt posted:I ended up getting 5.15mm piano wire and I completely underestimated this thing. It's way too stiff to bend with normal tools and I've no idea where to start with even cutting it down to size. Jewellers saw?
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Jan 22, 2015 11:44
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EU goons, where do you buy your magnets from?
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Jan 22, 2015 11:53
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Groetgaffel posted:EU goons, where do you buy your magnets from? http://www.supermagnete.de/eng/
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Jan 22, 2015 12:54
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lilljonas posted:Jewellers saw? I'm more worried about mounting it to the flyer base. Maybe I'll ship it back and get 3mm instead.
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Jan 22, 2015 12:56
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I get mine off ebay, there's a 'reborn doll' supplier called magnetsmagnetsmagnets on ebay UK I get mine from. Also, those reborn dolls are scary.
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Jan 22, 2015 12:56
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ijyt posted:I ended up getting 5.15mm piano wire and I completely underestimated this thing. It's way too stiff to bend with normal tools and I've no idea where to start with even cutting it down to size. I was going to be a smartass and say "wirecutter" until I read again and saw "5.15mm." They do make larger wirecutters, and you could look into a smaller bolt cutter - you're going to want something with really long handles and a pivot really close to the cutting edges. An alternative would be to pick up a smallish hacksaw - just make sure you clamp the rod down firmly or it's going to start wobbling all over the place as you cut. A jewelers saw would probably do the job, but it's going to take you a while to get through something that thick.
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Jan 22, 2015 14:05
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Tin snips maybe?
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Jan 22, 2015 14:26
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lilljonas posted:Bones hate (some) spray primers. Google Bones and primer. I just avoid experimenting completely and paint them with brush-on Vallejo primer. Does artists gesso work on bones plastic? I've heard many good things about it on TMP.
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Jan 22, 2015 15:59
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Z the IVth posted:Does artists gesso work on bones plastic? I've heard many good things about it on TMP. As I understand it, the propellant in certain spray cans mess with the Bone material. So pretty much everything that doesn't involve propellants, including airbrushing, should be safe. I've painted with black gesso and it worked fine, and I've painted with brush-on primers and it has been fine.
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Jan 22, 2015 16:08
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An unthinned first coat of normal paint has worked fine on mine so far.
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Jan 22, 2015 16:13
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ijyt posted:I ended up getting 5.15mm piano wire and I completely underestimated this thing. It's way too stiff to bend with normal tools and I've no idea where to start with even cutting it down to size. Rotary tool and a cut off wheel. Preferably diamond.
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Jan 22, 2015 19:04
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Karnegal posted:I just got my Cthulhu Wars box as well. I bought mine in a major part to work on my airbrush skills since it's a ton of models of various size and the color bleed is a little more forgivable because Mythos. Thank you for bringing this game to my attention. The base price is pretty high, expansions don't seem to be that bad for the amount of minis given. Are there any other mini lines for Cthulhu stuff? I've got some by Rafm and I know Reaper Chronoscope has a few. Also can someone point me to a really good guide for paint consistency examples? Handpainting with acrylics is what I do and I'm pretty sure I use too much paint, but adding water in regular amounts seems to quickly makes it appear watery and translucent. Using Vallejo game color.
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Jan 22, 2015 19:07
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madpanda posted:Also can someone point me to a really good guide for paint consistency examples? There's two off the top of my head that do a fairly good job of explaining it. http://home.wowway.com/~tinweasel/techniques.html http://www.reapermini.com/Thecraft/15 Paint consistency is a huge hurdle to leap over if you in any way want to get good with painting, and while reading a guide will tell you a lot, it's gonna take some practice to get 'the feel' for it. The more water you use the thinner it will be, which has it's uses depending on what you're doing. I find that with VGC, using their paint on a wet pallet and adding just a tiny bit of water really helps get them to a more usable consistency; roughly 2:1 ratio paint to water. Be sure to give the bottles a good shake too.
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Jan 22, 2015 19:20
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As happy as I am with my first attempt at verdigris bronze, I decided to take a stab at some highly corroded iron. Just leather, fabric and some clean up to go and my test model will be done! Yay! 
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Jan 22, 2015 21:47
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Monster w21 Faces posted:As happy as I am with my first attempt at verdigris bronze, I decided to take a stab at some highly corroded iron. Looks great!
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Jan 22, 2015 22:02
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I decided to hit my Minotaurs with Druchii Violet. Pre-wash on the left. I think the left one might be more accurate to the IA10 artwork of Minotaurs, but as a colour I feel the right one works better. Thoughts?
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Jan 23, 2015 01:39
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ijyt posted:I decided to hit my Minotaurs with Druchii Violet. Pre-wash on the left. I think the left one might be more accurate to the IA10 artwork of Minotaurs, but as a colour I feel the right one works better. Thoughts? I'm feeling the one on the right, personally. It's got a nice deep rich color to it, whereas the one on the left is more...dusty and dry. I think if you hit the right one with a bit of silver drybrushing along the edges to simulate some wear and tear from going mac 5 in the Danger Zone, it'd really make it pop. I do see one problem in that the verdigris is all but removed with the violet wash, so maybe go back over those.
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Jan 23, 2015 02:19
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ijyt posted:I decided to hit my Minotaurs with Druchii Violet. Pre-wash on the left. I think the left one might be more accurate to the IA10 artwork of Minotaurs, but as a colour I feel the right one works better. Thoughts? I like the one on the right and I'd like to submit, as a philosophical point that 'being accurate' in the discussion of space barbies is an indication of a mental disorder soon to be printed in the DSM 6; which will invalidate any armies you painted using mental disorders from DSM 5.
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Jan 23, 2015 02:23
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I bought a TC 20T compressor for my first airbrush. I've used it three times now with some success, but I think there might be something wrong with it. 1) It smells when I run it. Kind of a hot chemical-y smell, but it's plausible it's burning rubber. On the other hand, it kind of smells the same as the box it came in. 2) I can hear air coming out where the hose hits the compressor/moisture trap. Also the tank doesn't seem to be filling up so I have to keep the compressor running and it gets kind of hot. I know several people here have one so I thought I'd ask you all for advice. Is it possible that the first issue is just the oil it was packed in cooking off and the second issue is due to me not hooking it up right or something? Or should I just return it and get a replacement?
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Jan 23, 2015 02:49
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Sulecrist posted:I bought a TC 20T compressor for my first airbrush. I've used it three times now with some success, but I think there might be something wrong with it. 1) For the last 150 years, the industrial revolution has produced countless products which complicate and shorten human life. Accept it, or choose a safer art. I suggest clay. 2) Sounds like a leak! If you have the patience, try returning it for a replacement. Otherwise, gabe some loctite and use it to try to seal the fitting. If you can't remove the part that's leaking, you can either get a new compressor or try this guy's approach with sealer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eR2fKNmOPF4 Otherwise, you can try submerging the partially filled apparatus in water, looking for bubbles and replacing the faulty fixture by buying a spare part. Under no circumstances drink 3 bottles of wine and kick the apparatus yelling 'loving thing! gently caress.'
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Jan 23, 2015 02:56
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lilljonas posted:Bones hate (some) spray primers. Google Bones and primer. I just avoid experimenting completely and paint them with brush-on Vallejo primer. I spent a bunch of time researching it and actually bought the specific type at Wal-Mart someone recommended. This poo poo: http://www.krylon.com/featured-products/dual-paint-plus-primer/
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Jan 23, 2015 02:57
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On a related semi related not I was wondering if any of you could suggest a quite air compressor. I'm moving into a college apartment and I would like something relatively small for ease of transport and so on and so forth as my current compressor is somewhat bulky and very loud.
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Jan 23, 2015 02:57
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:1) For the last 150 years, the industrial revolution has produced countless products which complicate and shorten human life. Accept it, or choose a safer art. I suggest clay. But the first thing doesn't indicate that it's broken? (Someone suggested that something may be hosed with the diaphragm inside or something.) The smell doesn't bother me but I don't want my brand new $100 machine to catch fire or whatever.
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Jan 23, 2015 02:59
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I'm hardly able to tell you that something that smells isn't a problem of some kind. But I can tell you that a lot of stuff smells. It smells for a while sometimes. Sometimes you think 'oh god, that's plastic burning or something'. And you're *right*. And it' still not going to compromise the machine. In other cases you never smell anything. I think the leak is the part we can help you with. If you want someone to review a smell, it's best to find someone, somewhere, who uses air compressors a lot, and have them smell your compressor. 
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Jan 23, 2015 03:05
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