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about to move onto the metallic stage of my huge rear end conquest for warmachine, and was wondering if there was anything I could do to really drive them home? Right now I've been running the P3 metalics with a simple wash, and have some Vallejo weathering pigment that I belief is a muddy red. My scheme for the army is a very red alert style soviet Russia, with iron/brass metal.
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Jan 27, 2015 16:35
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w00tmonger posted:about to move onto the metallic stage of my huge rear end conquest for warmachine, and was wondering if there was anything I could do to really drive them home? Some leaking oil wouldn't be amiss with all the pistons and metallic crap on there. Rusty streaks too.
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Jan 27, 2015 17:45
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I seem to remember people talking about desk lamps a while back, and someone mentioned a light+magnifier swing combo that they really liked. Does anyone remember that and/or use one and have any thoughts or recommendations? I was looking at this: http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Efficie...=magnifier+Lamp
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Jan 27, 2015 18:01
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ijyt posted:Please post more of these, those are the prettiest clean Tau I've seen, and the Mars base just makes it better. Does anyone have some good oil colour tutorials handy? I ordered a tube of Migs Abteilung stuff along with some other things and while i'm gonna try to look up things and play around with it after this post i have no idea about it so far.
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Jan 27, 2015 19:17
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HardCoil posted:How do you guys go about mixing really dark shades for deep shading? I have some guys in green armour, but my darkest green isn't dark enough. I've been getting by by adding black, but I think that's not the right way to do it? Colours are supposed to get more saturated as they get darker, and adding black goes the wrong way there :-/ Shade that green with dark red washes. Shading red with dark green washes works amazingly well. Scab red highlighted with red gore, blood red, blood red + light skin tone then a wash of scaly green is my basic red recipe I'm not really sure if this is a contrasting colours interacting or what and if it applies for other colours ; I'm poo poo at colour theory. Big Willy Style fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Jan 27, 2015 |
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Jan 27, 2015 21:44
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Reaching across the color wheel to the opposite side is the way to get saturated shadows. Mixing in black does make it darker, but just by moving the color towards black.
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Jan 27, 2015 21:51
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For good deep red I tend to use dark purple washes and powders. It will give you a soft red look, so don't use it if you're trying to go for that uber Soviet/50's racecar/Buck Rogers rockship style red. I mean, even GW has been doing this as of late seeing as how their "red" wash is really more of a plum color.
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Jan 27, 2015 23:13
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I painted some things for the Oath thread this month.   The lighting didn't treat the icon bearer kindly in the front shot (perhaps because of the huge rock he's holding); the rear picture is a more accurate impression of how the scheme looks. Topically, I washed my red with black. 
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Jan 28, 2015 00:00
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Sexy as gently caress. Thanks for sharing. Why is the icon a solid chunk of obsidian? It's got writing or something on it, right? Are is going to be gloss sealed or something that doesn't show up in the photo? Because it seems like it could use something to pick out the detail. Like 3 layers of aqua to jade shading of terrifying mind-warping hieroglyphics left by gnostic aliens.
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Jan 28, 2015 00:55
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Yeah, there's writing on it. Can you not see it? It's lower contrast than it could be, admittedly, and maybe I should have used a lighter-colored stone, but I was trying to match the color of stone I'd previously used in some of my bases. I tried to highlight the black lines with some grey to both make it more visible and give the impression of being carved into the surface.
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Jan 28, 2015 01:01
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I can kind of barely see it? That's why I was asking if it was just a lot easier to see outside the photo. I just meant like an over-the-top highly visible kind of contrast, like glowing or gold inlaid lettering. But I like everything else going on, so I'll take your word for it, if it looks good on the table.
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Jan 28, 2015 01:03
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It also depends on your monitor, I can see it fine.
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Jan 28, 2015 01:37
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Hieroglyphics in gold inlay would probably look awesome and maybe I'll do that in the future.  But yeah, if you're having trouble seeing that there's anything there, I think it might be your display. It's definitely visible on my screen and IRL.
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Jan 28, 2015 03:09
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Hubis posted:I seem to remember people talking about desk lamps a while back, and someone mentioned a light+magnifier swing combo that they really liked. Does anyone remember that and/or use one and have any thoughts or recommendations? I was looking at this: http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Efficie...=magnifier+Lamp I use this one: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015ASND0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I like it, though I never use the magnifying glass. This is my second one, when my old one broke after years of use, I was paranoid my pictures wouldn't turn out as nice if I didn't get the same model.
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Jan 28, 2015 03:16
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Bachtere posted:I use this one: Eeek. That's expensive. This right here is all you need. $37 (or less with coupon,) crazy bright light, sturdy unit, probably the best lamp I've ever owned. Best of all, it doesn't get hot, since it is a fluorescent. Like Bachtere, I never use the magnifying glass, but it is there if you need it. Interestingly, the HF one looks almost exactly the same as the one Bachtere listed - I wonder if they are made by the same Chinese company?
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Jan 28, 2015 15:06
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The infantry got their matte varnish today and i'm currently glueing them to their bases, i'm really pleased with how those are coming out.
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Jan 28, 2015 20:40
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So for skin, what's your go to recipe? Trying to paint some gun mages at the moment and gently caress painting skin
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Jan 28, 2015 22:26
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What colour skin? Generally, I pick up a skin tone of the relevant shade, paint it on, hit it with the relevant wash, highlight, doe, but I'm no pro.
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Jan 29, 2015 00:44
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thespaceinvader posted:What colour skin? It's for Cygnar for warmachine, I'm thinking something ruddy like a dwarf skin tone
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Jan 29, 2015 00:47
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For white skin: I use pink, wash light brown, and then highlight with the original pink mixed with french vanilla. For black skin: I use a brown, wash darker brown, and highlight with the original brown mixed with pink. What will really makes a difference is mixing your base skintone with a brick red for the lips, scars, inside of ears, nipples, and eye sockets. And mix your base tone with grey for beard or shaved head stubble.
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Jan 29, 2015 02:10
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gilljoy posted:So for skin, what's your go to recipe? Trying to paint some gun mages at the moment and gently caress painting skin Dwarf Flesh > Reikland Fleshshade > Dwarf Flesh again, leaving the recesses shaded > Reikland Fleshshade > Dwarf Flesh again, hitting an even smaller area > Elf Flesh:  With modern GW colors, Ratskin Flesh and Kislev Flesh are apparently stand-ins for Dwarf and Elf Flesh respectively, but I think Dwarf Flesh is a little pinker.
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Jan 29, 2015 03:24
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I'm thinking about trying my hand at oil washes. Apparently gloss varnishes are the best way to go when applying them? What do you guys recommend for spray varnish? Also, any general advice when it comes to making or applying oil washes?
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Jan 29, 2015 03:47
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Commissar Canuck posted:I'm thinking about trying my hand at oil washes. Apparently gloss varnishes are the best way to go when applying them? What do you guys recommend for spray varnish? Also, any general advice when it comes to making or applying oil washes? I used to use Krylon when I did rattlecans (I have an airbrush now) and I always trusted them. Only ever had like one skunky can, and that was over like 6-7 years. Consider also getting a bottle of Pledge Floor Wax with Future Shine, which used to be called Future Floor Wax; it's a self-leveling acrylic polymer, and makes for a great gloss varnish. As for oil washes: BULBASAUR could probably explain it far better than I on this, but when I do oil washes I go for roughly 8:1 ratio mineral spirits to oil paint; you want it to be thin and wash-like, but not so thin that you end up losing out on color when you apply it. It's a bit tricky and I usually just eyeball it; some people on here have pre-made their oil wash mixes and store them in glass bottled with a stopper to keep the spirits from evaporating, so maybe consider that if you get a mix you like. Clean-up is super easy with oil washes too, just take some mineral spirits on the end of an old brush or q-tip and wipe away. You can safely varnish over the model afterwards (and you should if you want to keep the oil wash on there!), so consider when you plan to do the oil wash and go from there; for me, it's one of the first steps I do after my base coat, but some do it closer to the end.
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Jan 29, 2015 04:18
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What is the purpose of a gloss varnish over a matte? When would I want a model to be shiny? Honest q
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Jan 29, 2015 04:22
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It seals the model and hardens it against abuse, so you don't have paint flaking off from using your minis. You can still put a matte layer over the gloss and retain the hardness, but gloss coats are always a good idea.
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Jan 29, 2015 04:28
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It's also a thousand times easier to stick decals onto a gloss finish, then matte seal over everything.
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Jan 29, 2015 04:36
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Commissar Canuck posted:I'm thinking about trying my hand at oil washes. Apparently gloss varnishes are the best way to go when applying them? What do you guys recommend for spray varnish? Also, any general advice when it comes to making or applying oil washes? Here's a guide I wrote on it: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3210214&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=1115#post428886542 ... and how I make the washes: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3210214&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=1115#post428887104
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Jan 29, 2015 05:02
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Brush on gloss varnish is also useful for when you want a gloss sheen on just parts of a mini, I sometimes use it for liquids, laquer, beetle carapace etc.
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Jan 29, 2015 09:09
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gilljoy posted:So for skin, what's your go to recipe? Trying to paint some gun mages at the moment and gently caress painting skin My usual recipe for humans is Tallarn Flesh - Elf Flesh big highlight (everything except deep recesses) - Ogryn Flesh wash - Elf Flesh small highlight (e.g. nose, cheekbones, ears, fingers). Not sure what the equivalent colours are in modern paints.
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Jan 29, 2015 11:36
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Finished painting up my Tyranid tournament list:    So many wings...
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Jan 29, 2015 14:33
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I love your nids Pierre.
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Jan 29, 2015 14:51
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Wheres the best place to order the rounded Warmachine style bases online in the UK? I'm looking for all sizes, 30mm through 120mm. Cheers!
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Jan 29, 2015 16:27
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Monster w21 Faces posted:Wheres the best place to order the rounded Warmachine style bases online in the UK? I'm looking for all sizes, 30mm through 120mm. Sculpted or plain? DarkSphere for sculpted, Troll Trader for plain (and sculpted).
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Jan 29, 2015 16:53
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ijyt posted:Sculpted or plain? DarkSphere for sculpted, Troll Trader for plain (and sculpted). drat, sold out. Thanks though!
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Jan 29, 2015 17:55
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Thanks Slimnoid for the gloss/wash advice, I'll pick up a can of Krylon this weekend. As far as the Future stuff goes, I was reading around that they changed the formula and it's not as good as it once was for covering minis/models? And thanks Bulbasaur for the links to your guides (holy poo poo that vindicator looks fantastic!)
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Jan 29, 2015 18:59
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Monster w21 Faces posted:drat, sold out. Thanks though!
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Jan 29, 2015 19:21
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ijyt posted:Element Games has some. Those are insanely good prices. Holy crap.
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Jan 29, 2015 21:29
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Those nids are outstanding 
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Jan 29, 2015 22:09
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Bistromatic posted:Forgot to mention when you posted the titan but i did red bases on the few Tau i ever actually painted and i just used red sand. The rock chunk on the devilfish is a plaster cast washed with some rust colours. If it suits your tastes i can dig out the details, i should have written them down somewhere. El Estrago Bonito posted:This is painted well but the fact that you built a super huge and expensive model and then did no cleanup on it is sort of bringing it down. Next time try and use gap filler and a file to clean off where you cut the figure from the sprue and to fill in the big cracks and gaps left over from assembly (back seam, shoulder pads). Yeah, that was super disappointing to find. I built most of this guy like 5 years ago, and I just didn't see that huge gap and sprue scars on his back until after I was done with the airbrush. There were a few other sprue bits still on the model that I was able to clean up, but still I'd like to have taken care of it when I had all that greenstuff out.
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Jan 29, 2015 23:32
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PierreTheMime posted:Finished painting up my Tyranid tournament list: Oh man, my favorite mutations in my favorite color scheme...  Pierre! Why are you doing this to me? I've been clean for so long. I don't even look at the 10 carnifexes I have in boxes anymore. And they've done everything they can to make the line appeal to me now. More squids. More bulging wombsacks. More barbs. Good look at the tourney.
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Jan 29, 2015 23:35
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