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Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?

Commissar Canuck posted:

Thanks Slimnoid for the gloss/wash advice, I'll pick up a can of Krylon this weekend. As far as the Future stuff goes, I was reading around that they changed the formula and it's not as good as it once was for covering minis/models? And thanks Bulbasaur for the links to your guides (holy poo poo that vindicator looks fantastic!)

I've only used it for two years but I've had zero problems with it as my gloss varnish, so YMMV.

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Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 61 days!

Commissar Canuck posted:

As far as the Future stuff goes, I was reading around that they changed the formula and it's not as good as it once was for covering minis/models?

I've been using Pledge Floor Care (the rebranded Future stuff) to gloss-coat minis since late last year, and haven't had a single issue with it yet.

Just in case, this is the stuff you want (at least, in the USA anyways, I know it may be called different things in other countries):

No Pun Intended
Jul 23, 2007

DWARVEN SEX OFFENDER

ASK ME ABOUT TONING MY FINE ASS DWARVEN BOOTY BY RUNNING FROM THE COPS OUTSIDE THAT ELF KINDERGARTEN

BEHOLD THE DONG OF THE DWARVES! THE DWARVEN DONG IS COMING!
Not mine; but awesome anyways.





I know the base models are the 40k base set cultists; but does anyone know where the helmets are from? Can they be bought or are they conversions?

More here

Hra Mormo
Mar 6, 2008

The Internet Man
The hell? Robo from Chrono Trigger cultists? That's so weird.

And awesome.

Monster w21 Faces
May 11, 2006

"What the fuck is that?"
"What the fuck is this?!"

Sweet. Thank you. Just ordered a ton of bases. That site is incredibly well priced for supplies!

Sulecrist
Apr 5, 2007

Better tear off this bar association logo.
Does anyone have a good tutorial on painting Polynesian/Pacific Islander skin tones?

signalnoise
Mar 7, 2008

i was told my old av was distracting

Pierzak posted:

3. dremel or modeling knife (depends if they're the little circles or full-sized bases), cut them off entirely, glue onto laser-cut transparent plexi hexes of appropriate size. You want to do it after varnishing and use appropriate glue that won't frost the base.

I'm having difficulty shopping for an appropriate cutting tool and I have a clarification question

My options for cutting are basically saw, dremel, knife, or snips. Will a jewelry saw cut without removing much material? And do you mean to cut the bases off after varnishing or just glue after varnishing?

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

signalnoise posted:

My options for cutting are basically saw, dremel, knife, or snips. Will a jewelry saw cut without removing much material? And do you mean to cut the bases off after varnishing or just glue after varnishing?
Jewelry saw should be OK, I recommended a dremel buzzsaw (the smooth serrated metal kind, not the grinder disc kind) for speed as you said you have a ton of minis to go through.

And I meant glue after varnishing. Matte varnish will be hell on clear acrylic bases.

Sulecrist posted:

Does anyone have a good tutorial on painting Polynesian/Pacific Islander skin tones?
You probably know this, but:
http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/1310-ethnic-skintones

Commissar Canuck
Aug 5, 2008

They made fun of us! And it's Stanley Cup season!

Good to know on the Future/Pledge Floor Care stuff! Two more quick questions about it, though. Do you thin it with anything beforehand (and if so, with what) and do you do anything special cleanup-wise to avoid any little bits left over hardening in the airbrush?

Sulecrist
Apr 5, 2007

Better tear off this bar association logo.

I haven't seen this before, thank you. This will definitely come in handy.

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?

Commissar Canuck posted:

Good to know on the Future/Pledge Floor Care stuff! Two more quick questions about it, though. Do you thin it with anything beforehand (and if so, with what) and do you do anything special cleanup-wise to avoid any little bits left over hardening in the airbrush?

I don't thin it for when I use it as a gloss. However, you can cut it 50/50 with water and it makes for a good thinner, which is handy when you're mixing your own paints.

I've found no need to do anything special for cleaning up my airbrush after I use Future; it's so thin it's practically water anyway. Just clean up like you would anything else and you ought to be fine.

Zark the Damned
Mar 9, 2013

XPost from the Oath thread. Really enjoyed doing the freehand, I really need to do it more often.

Zark the Damned posted:

:orks101: Oath Complete! :orks101:



Jurnal is the big symbol on the belly (I wish these things came with flat plates instead of stupid moulded skulls):



Also I entered NTRabbit's January One Off Prize Draw with the number on the right shoulder:



Also, is Testor's Dullcote still considered a decent varnish for minis? Just found out recently that Antenocitis Workshop sells it and was thinking about trying some out - http://www.antenocitisworkshop.com/testors-dullcote-spray.html

Grey Hunter
Oct 17, 2007

Hero of the soviet union.
Accidental destroyer of planets
Its cross-posting time!



The Martians are coming!





Only the brave but horribly outgunned soldiers of the American Army can stop them! the Journal is the struck through tripod and the badly painted tally marks - although that may be an exaggeration, what with US survivability rates against the Martians.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 61 days!

Slimnoid posted:

I don't thin it for when I use it as a gloss. However, you can cut it 50/50 with water and it makes for a good thinner, which is handy when you're mixing your own paints.

This right here, though I will add that you should use distilled water, if you're planning on storing your mixed paints afterwards. I usually decant paints out of jars with lids into dropper bottles (such as the P3 paints I own), and to that I'll add a bit of Future/distilled water mix to pre-thin 'em a bit.

You can also use Future to make your own washes from paints/inks, as well. It's basically just clear acrylic medium, so it acts as a bit of a binding agent to help keep pigments together, when the paint or ink is thinned down. Basically Future really has a ton of uses for mini painters/model makers in general. :)

PyroDwarf
Aug 24, 2010
I have this:


Would I be able to use this in the same way as an oil wash? (Gloss varnish, dab it on, clean with enamel thinner, dull coat, etc.)
It is enamel based.

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?

PyroDwarf posted:

I have this:


Would I be able to use this in the same way as an oil wash? (Gloss varnish, dab it on, clean with enamel thinner, dull coat, etc.)
It is enamel based.

I don't see why not, but I'd rest it out on some junk piece first. You don't want to try it out on something only to end up being total garbage and then have to strip the whole thing.

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!





This is rad :hellyeah:

Bistromatic
Oct 3, 2004

And turn the inner eye
To see its path...

MasterSlowPoke posted:

That would be great, thanks!

The sand is this stuff by Busch


The rocks are plaster casts from Woodland Scenics molds that are then washed with Vallejo Panzer Aces Yellowish Rust(303), Light Rust(301) und Dark Rust(302) in that order.

Lovely Joe Stalin
Jun 12, 2007

Our Lovely Wang

El Estrago Bonito posted:

That one huge mustache guy is so common in historical Brit ranges for the time period that I'm 99% sure he has to be in an Osprey uniform book somewhere since that's usually the source of one random guy showing up in multiple ranges and scales.

Far as I know it's actually a traditional British Army NCO's style.

El Estrago Bonito
Dec 17, 2010

Scout Finch Bitch

PyroDwarf posted:

I have this:


Would I be able to use this in the same way as an oil wash? (Gloss varnish, dab it on, clean with enamel thinner, dull coat, etc.)
It is enamel based.

Sort of, what you have there is for doing pin washes, it's done very similarly and produces a very similar effect.

big_g
Sep 24, 2004

Our young men will have to shoot down their young men at the rate of four to one, if we're to keep pace at all.

Sydney Bottocks posted:

This right here, though I will add that you should use distilled water, if you're planning on storing your mixed paints afterwards. I usually decant paints out of jars with lids into dropper bottles (such as the P3 paints I own), and to that I'll add a bit of Future/distilled water mix to pre-thin 'em a bit.

You can also use Future to make your own washes from paints/inks, as well. It's basically just clear acrylic medium, so it acts as a bit of a binding agent to help keep pigments together, when the paint or ink is thinned down. Basically Future really has a ton of uses for mini painters/model makers in general. :)

It can also be used to glue canopies and other transparent parts without any frosting or similar.

PantsOptional
Dec 27, 2012

All I wanna do is make you bounce

big_g posted:

It can also be used to glue canopies and other transparent parts without any frosting or similar.

Thank you so much. I had no idea and was going to superglue on my first Storm Talon canopy tonight.

big_g
Sep 24, 2004

Our young men will have to shoot down their young men at the rate of four to one, if we're to keep pace at all.

PantsOptional posted:

Thank you so much. I had no idea and was going to superglue on my first Storm Talon canopy tonight.

I'm talking from the perspective of historical scale models, bare in mind. That will sit in a case for most of their life, it does stick well but you may want some of this http://www.totemhobbies.co.uk/product/zap-canopy-glue-2oz#.VMv9Hy6fWUk for heavy use wargaming figures.

But absolutely don't use superglue!

I would personally try the future first and if it gets loose get some canopy glue.

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?
I'm lead to believe that if you apply a coat of Future over clear plastic like the canopy or flying stand rods, it will give it a protective coat that'll prevent the usual 'frosting' that happens due to the super glue.

Not sure where I read that from though. Haven't tried it myself.

big_g
Sep 24, 2004

Our young men will have to shoot down their young men at the rate of four to one, if we're to keep pace at all.

Slimnoid posted:

I'm lead to believe that if you apply a coat of Future over clear plastic like the canopy or flying stand rods, it will give it a protective coat that'll prevent the usual 'frosting' that happens due to the super glue.

Not sure where I read that from though. Haven't tried it myself.

It's a nice technique to dip all your transparent parts in future anyway. It gives a lovely gloss sheen to the clear parts and protects as well. Give them a spray and a good wipe down with windoleen and then dip then with tweezers and leave them to dry and cure for a couple of days preferably under some form of cover to protect against dust and you have sexy sexy glass.

PyroDwarf
Aug 24, 2010

Slimnoid posted:

I don't see why not, but I'd rest it out on some junk piece first. You don't want to try it out on something only to end up being total garbage and then have to strip the whole thing.


El Estrago Bonito posted:

Sort of, what you have there is for doing pin washes, it's done very similarly and produces a very similar effect.

Thanks!

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Sydney Bottocks posted:

I've been using Pledge Floor Care (the rebranded Future stuff) to gloss-coat minis since late last year, and haven't had a single issue with it yet.

Just in case, this is the stuff you want (at least, in the USA anyways, I know it may be called different things in other countries):



I think they changed the labeling, because I looked all over for a bottle the past few weeks and couldn't find any Pledge bottles with galoshes. So I ordered it from Amazon and got



Pretty sure (hoping) it's the same stuff.

Can this stuff repair clear plastic? I recall reading about using Future to repair scratches or cracks in canopies. I have a clear plastic display case with some scratches and scuffs that I'm hoping I can fix.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 61 days!

Cthulu Carl posted:

I think they changed the labeling, because I looked all over for a bottle the past few weeks and couldn't find any Pledge bottles with galoshes. So I ordered it from Amazon and got



Pretty sure (hoping) it's the same stuff.

The name on the bottle in the pic you posted looks identical to the name in the pic I posted, so I think you should be OK. :)

Gareth Gobulcoque
Jan 10, 2008



2nd attempt at freehand, getting there.

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

Pretty sure you're already there. :stare:

Mr. Squishy
Mar 22, 2010

A country where you can always get richer.
Is the skirt freehand?

CyberLord XP
Oct 18, 2005

Goldie...She says her name is Goldie

ijyt posted:

Pretty sure you're already there. :stare:

Yeah Jesus dude, wish I was" getting there".

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010
What's the goon-recommended plastic glue (looking for strong & fast joint)? It's for new Malifaux minis if it makes a difference.

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

Revell Contacta Professional has never failed me.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Pierzak posted:

What's the goon-recommended plastic glue (looking for strong & fast joint)? It's for new Malifaux minis if it makes a difference.

Good ol' Testors in the black ... "Bottle" with the fine metal needle tip. Model glue bonds the plastic together by melting so it's the strongest bond you can get with it. You have to be careful not to use too much. You can get liquid brush-on glue which sets faster and is good for thin edges due to capillary action as well.

Having said that I don't know what kind of plastic those minis are made of so I can't say polystyrene cement is good for those particular models. If it's not styrene plastic you may have to go with a CA glue. If you do, I actually really like the Gorilla Glue Cyanoacrylate glue and you can get it in any DIY store.

Testors: http://www.amazon.com/Testor-Corp-Liquid-Cement-Plastics/dp/B0006N6ODS

Gorilla glue: http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-7805001-15g-Super-Glue/dp/B001IY82FM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422802579&sr=8-1&keywords=Gorilla+glue+ca

The advantage hobby CA glue has is that they come in various viscosities and the GG one doesn't. Otherwise it's just as good and it has a nice anti-clog applicator.

Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Feb 1, 2015

signalnoise
Mar 7, 2008

i was told my old av was distracting
I like SCIGRIP 16 in a squeeze bottle for my plastic melting needs. :getin:

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



Any recommendations on achieving the purpleish skin tone you see on stuff like this (tumbnailed, maybe NWS) Kings of War figure?


I'm thinking maybe khaki with a purple wash and beige highlights? I tried starting with dark purple and working up to off-white, but my vampire guy just looks like a smurf.

big_g
Sep 24, 2004

Our young men will have to shoot down their young men at the rate of four to one, if we're to keep pace at all.

Cthulu Carl posted:

I think they changed the labeling, because I looked all over for a bottle the past few weeks and couldn't find any Pledge bottles with galoshes. So I ordered it from Amazon and got



Pretty sure (hoping) it's the same stuff.

Can this stuff repair clear plastic? I recall reading about using Future to repair scratches or cracks in canopies. I have a clear plastic display case with some scratches and scuffs that I'm hoping I can fix.

It's exactly the same stuff.

Indolent Bastard
Oct 26, 2007

I WON THIS AMAZING AVATAR! I'M A WINNER! WOOOOO!

big_g posted:

It's exactly the same stuff.

I wish they'd stop changing the label that is at least the third one in as many years.

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NTRabbit
Aug 15, 2012

i wear this armour to protect myself from the histrionics of hysterical women

bitches




I use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement with the brush applicator, I've found it to be less of a hassle than needle applicators due to blockages.

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