Miniature Painting/Sculpting/Modelling Megathread (Shut up and use Simple Green)

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Deanut Pancer: Nov 24, 2012

NTRabbit posted:

I use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement with the brush applicator, I've found it to be less of a hassle than needle applicators due to blockages.

This stuff rocks. I picked up a bottle in my FLGS a few months back, and found it so much better then the army painter plastic glue I'd been using previously. It works for polystyrene plastic (GW etc), so I'd look for confirmation that whatever Malifaux stuff is made of is compatible.

# ? Feb 1, 2015 16:55

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# ? Apr 19, 2024 01:56

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

moths posted:

Any recommendations on achieving the purpleish skin tone you see on stuff like this (tumbnailed, maybe NWS) Kings of War figure?

I'm thinking maybe khaki with a purple wash and beige highlights? I tried starting with dark purple and working up to off-white, but my vampire guy just looks like a smurf.

You need a grey with purple mixed in. Purple + white is the wrong saturation so won't look close at all. GWs Slaanesh grey is what you want.

# ? Feb 1, 2015 17:04

Hubis: May 18, 2003; Boy, I wish we had one of those doomsday machines...

Cthulu Carl posted:

I think they changed the labeling, because I looked all over for a bottle the past few weeks and couldn't find any Pledge bottles with galoshes. So I ordered it from Amazon and got

Pretty sure (hoping) it's the same stuff.

Can this stuff repair clear plastic? I recall reading about using Future to repair scratches or cracks in canopies. I have a clear plastic display case with some scratches and scuffs that I'm hoping I can fix.

I can confirm that will at least work to hide scuffs, if not full on scratches. I had a scuffed transparent acrylic clock face that I laid down flat and put a thin coat over, and you could barely see it afterwards. Two coats and you'd have to be looking for it to even tell. YMMV passed on the depth of the scratches, but its worth a solid try.

# ? Feb 1, 2015 17:04

Monster w21 Faces: May 11, 2006; "What the fuck is that?"
"What the fuck is this?!"

ijyt posted:

Revell Contacta Professional has never failed me.

I second this, awesome quick bonding stuff that only needs to be held for a few seconds and has the best applicator I've come across.

# ? Feb 1, 2015 17:09

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

Deanut Pancer posted:

This stuff rocks. I picked up a bottle in my FLGS a few months back, and found it so much better then the army painter plastic glue I'd been using previously. It works for polystyrene plastic (GW etc), so I'd look for confirmation that whatever Malifaux stuff is made of is compatible.

http://wyrd-games.net/community/topic/82634-malifaux-plastics-glue-and-you/

They use a mix that's not 100% ABS plastic, so it ends up being much denser. It's different from GW plastics which is, as you said, extruded polystyrene; however, they feel similar enough to where I think that brand of plastic glue will work on Malifaux without a problem. Test it on the sprue they come on first though, just to be sure.

# ? Feb 1, 2015 19:46

Sydney Bottocks: Oct 15, 2004; Can't post for 40 days!

NTRabbit posted:

I use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement with the brush applicator, I've found it to be less of a hassle than needle applicators due to blockages.

Thirding this. I've used it on both Perry Miniatures (the War of the Roses range) and GW stuff (I started putting together an Undead band for Mordheim and got some GW zombie bits off of eBay) with no problems.

# ? Feb 1, 2015 20:35

moths: Aug 25, 2004; I would also still appreciate some danger.

serious gaylord posted:

GWs Slaanesh grey is what you want.

Thanks, that looks like it'll be perfect!

# ? Feb 1, 2015 20:48

Silhouette: Nov 16, 2002; SONIC BOOM!!!

moths posted:

Any recommendations on achieving the purpleish skin tone you see on stuff like this (tumbnailed, maybe NWS) Kings of War figure?

I'm thinking maybe khaki with a purple wash and beige highlights? I tried starting with dark purple and working up to off-white, but my vampire guy just looks like a smurf.

Reaper's Dark Elf Skin triad.

# ? Feb 1, 2015 22:04

demota: Aug 12, 2003; I could read between the lines. They wanted to see the alien.

I just got the XCOM board game. I'm a little stuck on ideas for the UFOs. The ones that come with the game. They look like this:

I want them to look like the ones in the computer game, which look like this:

For most of it, I assume just use a metallic and highlight as necessary, but I'm not sure how to recreate the effect of the force fields. My best guess is to paint it blue, add some white squiggly stripes, then drag some blue ink over it.

Will that probably do it?

# ? Feb 2, 2015 01:38

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

What are some good places to pick up resin bases that isn't Secret Weapon Miniatures? I plan to base all of my Deadzone figures with different bases that are thematic per faction, all of which need to be modern or futuristic. 25mm beveled. Also I'm in the US.

signalnoise fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Feb 2, 2015

# ? Feb 2, 2015 02:24

ijyt: Apr 10, 2012

demota posted:

I just got the XCOM board game. I'm a little stuck on ideas for the UFOs. The ones that come with the game. They look like this:

I want them to look like the ones in the computer game, which look like this:

For most of it, I assume just use a metallic and highlight as necessary, but I'm not sure how to recreate the effect of the force fields. My best guess is to paint it blue, add some white squiggly stripes, then drag some blue ink over it.

Will that probably do it?

# ? Feb 2, 2015 02:28

Silhouette: Nov 16, 2002; SONIC BOOM!!!

demota posted:

I just got the XCOM board game. I'm a little stuck on ideas for the UFOs. The ones that come with the game. They look like this:

I want them to look like the ones in the computer game, which look like this:

For most of it, I assume just use a metallic and highlight as necessary, but I'm not sure how to recreate the effect of the force fields. My best guess is to paint it blue, add some white squiggly stripes, then drag some blue ink over it.

Will that probably do it?

I don't have any suggestions, except that I will say that it's a goddamn crime that they weren't cast in translucent blue plastic. Maybe make a mold and cast some in clear blue resin?

# ? Feb 2, 2015 02:35

moths: Aug 25, 2004; I would also still appreciate some danger.

There's a nail polish that mimics that shield pretty well. The problem is that the hexagon glitter-sparkles might be hard to get to lie flat on the figure.

# ? Feb 2, 2015 02:50

Ignite Memories: Feb 27, 2005

You could probably pull off some interesting effects with layering pearlescent inks. It's kinda like car paint. I use them for my orks because I like them and also because I'm a dumb idiot, depending who you ask.

# ? Feb 2, 2015 03:54

MasterSlowPoke: Oct 9, 2005; Our courage will pull us through

At that tiny of a scale, I wouldn't do anything more advanced than a gray to off-white gradient with a gloss coat.

# ? Feb 2, 2015 04:38

Blckbuster: Jul 18, 2002; VZ Renegade

anyone have any experience with green stuff stencils?

https://hobbyhottips.wordpress.com/2013/02/10/green-stuff-sculpting-tutorial-using-template-stencils-for-miniature-war-gaming/

I think these people went out of business, but I had really wanted to try them. I contacted them, but no response.

# ? Feb 2, 2015 06:42

El Estrago Bonito: Dec 17, 2010; Scout Finch Bitch

Blckbuster posted:

anyone have any experience with green stuff stencils?

https://hobbyhottips.wordpress.com/2013/02/10/green-stuff-sculpting-tutorial-using-template-stencils-for-miniature-war-gaming/

I think these people went out of business, but I had really wanted to try them. I contacted them, but no response.

The term you wan to google is "press mold".

# ? Feb 2, 2015 06:49

hooman: Oct 11, 2007; This guy seems legit.; Fun Shoe

Ignite Memories posted:

You could probably pull off some interesting effects with layering pearlescent inks. It's kinda like car paint. I use them for my orks because I like them and also because I'm a dumb idiot, depending who you ask.

Could you post some pictures of how these come out on minis?

# ? Feb 2, 2015 07:33

The Impaler: Dec 28, 2011; 10 Brogies
20 GOTO 10

^^^Seconded. I was thinking of Alpha Legion paint scheme and wondered what pearl colour I could use, rather than going airbrush crazy.

# ? Feb 2, 2015 08:20

Ignite Memories: Feb 27, 2005

here's some of the more recent photos. It can be a little difficult to photograph them, because the bright light you need to get good focus on the minis also tends to show a little more glare than they do in person.

They definitely pop though. Very vibrant.

# ? Feb 2, 2015 09:07

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

I just realized these pigments are just sitting on my shelf doing nothing. Anybody want them?

http://www.secretweaponminiatures.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_19&products_id=48
http://www.secretweaponminiatures.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_19&products_id=36

$2 each + $2 for shipping anywhere in the USA

# ? Feb 3, 2015 03:14

moths: Aug 25, 2004; I would also still appreciate some danger.

poo poo, I'll take both.

e: PM sent

# ? Feb 3, 2015 03:27

The Sisko: Jan 9, 2009; "Whenever there's injustice, wrongs to be righted, innocents to be defended, The Sisko will be there, delivering ass-whooppings."

Painting up some of the Imperial side from Imperial Assault and all I have to say is ...gently caress. PAINTING. WHITE. BY. HAND.

# ? Feb 3, 2015 03:35

moths: Aug 25, 2004; I would also still appreciate some danger.

Why didn't you just prime white? You prime white and ink black YOU ARE DONE, SON.

e: Seriously, Stormtroopers paint themselves why would you ever make it hard?

# ? Feb 3, 2015 03:51

The Sisko: Jan 9, 2009; "Whenever there's injustice, wrongs to be righted, innocents to be defended, The Sisko will be there, delivering ass-whooppings."

moths posted:

Why didn't you just prime white? You prime white and ink black YOU ARE DONE, SON.

e: Seriously, Stormtroopers paint themselves why would you ever make it hard?

Just moved into on campus housing at a big University and having roommates and construction outside apartmwb make rattle can priming a pain in the butt. Couldn't take airbrush becuse my compressor is very very loud. Hence why I'm stuck with brush on primer and painting by hand. I would use my airbrush in a heart beat if I could

# ? Feb 3, 2015 08:19

lilljonas: May 6, 2007; We got crabs? We got crabs!

The Sisko posted:

Just moved into on campus housing at a big University and having roommates and construction outside apartmwb make rattle can priming a pain in the butt. Couldn't take airbrush becuse my compressor is very very loud. Hence why I'm stuck with brush on primer and painting by hand. I would use my airbrush in a heart beat if I could

Spraypaint in a nearby parking lot or an alley or similar, bring the minis in a box. That's what I did when I lived in a university dorm.

# ? Feb 3, 2015 09:16

Cyclomatic: May 29, 2012; "I'm past caring about what might be lost by letting alphabet soups monitor every last piece of communication between every human being on the planet."

I unironically love Big Brother.

I've got a compressor that came with a Master Airbrush G22.

I've bought a Badger Patriot model 105.

The hose I've got doesn't fit on the Badger. I think the hose size on the compressor is 1/8", with female ends on the hose. Looking through the manual that came with the badger I can't seem to find a hose size listed anywhere.

Does anyone know the size of a Badger Patriot 105's connection?

Does anyone know the proper name of whatever adapter or hose thingy I need to be looking for?

# ? Feb 3, 2015 21:54

Deanut Pancer: Nov 24, 2012

You probably need something like this https://www.everythingairbrush.com/...airbrushes.html (or whatever is your local preferred store)

If you haven't got one yet, it might be worth investing in a quick-release setup, so you can easily unplug your brush from the hose without de-pressurising your compressor. It would also let you switch easily between the two brushes.
Something like this https://www.everythingairbrush.com/...y-tail-kit.html for the existing hose/brush, and then this https://www.everythingairbrush.com/...-to-badger.html for the badger, and I _think_ those will then all connect together.

# ? Feb 4, 2015 00:32

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

Crosspostin from the terrain thread:

quote:

I need help making explosions like these:

I know how to set up an armiture and how to get a cool shape... but I think I used the wrong type of foliage. The stuff is too fine and just falls apart. No amount of glue is holding it into place and I ended up throwing it all away:
http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/category/Underbrush

Has anybody made these before? Here's a WIP I found:

I'm thinking he used either "clump" foliage or "bushes" from woodland scenics. Has anybody done this before? Which one should I use to get the desired effect?
http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/category/Clump-Foliage
http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/category/Bushes

# ? Feb 4, 2015 05:17

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

You want clump foliage. I'm not sure what glue the tutorial you found mentions, but I've found that a really thin superglue is best for getting the base structure down. Once you get it all together on your armature, you can slather it with white glue or whatever.

# ? Feb 4, 2015 14:54

Fyrbrand: Dec 30, 2002; Grimey Drawer

Painted up some Trollblood runeshapers over the past few nights. Nothing special, just glad to be making continual progress after a big dry spell the last few months.

Need a better background than plain white I think, especially with albino dudemans.

# ? Feb 4, 2015 17:15

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

BULBASAUR posted:

Crosspostin from the terrain thread:

Spray it with gloss varnish before you paint it. It will help seal it.

# ? Feb 4, 2015 18:49

Monster w21 Faces: May 11, 2006; "What the fuck is that?"
"What the fuck is this?!"

I'd really like to paint some of the LOTR orc minis up as Hobgoblins for DnD. Does anyone know a good technique for painting orange flesh?

# ? Feb 4, 2015 18:53

Luebbi: Jul 28, 2000

I painted some Skorne manz over the weekend. Really pleased with the Cyclops Shaman, he looks great in person.

# ? Feb 4, 2015 18:57

Beerdeer: Apr 25, 2006; Frank Herbert's Dude

Monster w21 Faces posted:

I'd really like to paint some of the LOTR orc minis up as Hobgoblins for DnD. Does anyone know a good technique for painting orange flesh?

I find VGC Dwarf Flesh is really orange.

# ? Feb 4, 2015 19:39

QuasarInfinity: Mar 13, 2003; I routinely spend all of my money on Warhammer models.

I painted some mans. It's amazing how taking macro pictures of thing showcases every single flaw and mistake in glaringly high detail.

Pose as a team!

Bonus WIP Earthbreaker. I will eventually be good at freehand, maybe!

Any advice, especially on basing (which you can see I am terrible at) and taking pictures would be greatly appreciated.
Also on painting.

Edit: Made images a reasonable resolution.

QuasarInfinity fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Feb 4, 2015

# ? Feb 4, 2015 19:51

Silhouette: Nov 16, 2002; SONIC BOOM!!!

Monster w21 Faces posted:

I'd really like to paint some of the LOTR orc minis up as Hobgoblins for DnD. Does anyone know a good technique for painting orange flesh?

Use a basecoat of a bright orange, something similar to old GW Blazing Orange. Highlight by adding in successively higher amounts of a fleshtone paint, and shade with a mix of brown and violet washes.

# ? Feb 4, 2015 19:55