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So I traded the M3 for a big blue thing.  And promptly tested its salt carrying capacity. 
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Feb 5, 2015 23:21
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| # ? Apr 20, 2024 02:52 |
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motherofgod.jpg anyone installed e30 "riser" subframe bushings? i dont want to bother installing adjustable eccentrics for my car and these look like they will take some of the camber out of the rear suspension.
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Feb 5, 2015 23:36
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Everyone knows how low my E30 is (GC coilovers with no adjuster in the rear) and the camber isn't even visible. I've got IE urethane subframe mounts and IE urethane RTAB bushings. I really don't see the usefulness in the riser bushings, if anything it'd overcorrect. I think a lot of the camber you see in the rear of E30s is worn out RTABs.
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Feb 5, 2015 23:41
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I dunno, I have PLENTY of rear camber and i'm wearing the inner side of the tires pretty fast
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Feb 5, 2015 23:43
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That fast inner wear comes from toe, not camber. How old are your RTABs?
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Feb 5, 2015 23:45
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Jealous Cow posted:So I traded the M3 for a big blue thing. Congrats! Great color. What's your feelings so far vs the E92 on ye olde butte dyno? And how does it compare audibly? I got mine a present and bought it a 160 GB ipod... but have since realized I like listening to the gears whining, diff clunking etc etc and the general race car noises it makes with the M button on more than I like listening to the music on the ipod.
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Feb 6, 2015 00:11
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BlackMK4 posted:That fast inner wear comes from toe, not camber. How old are your RTABs? Circa 1990 
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Feb 6, 2015 00:15
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Ether Frenzy posted:Congrats! Great color. What's your feelings so far vs the E92 on ye olde butte dyno? Feels much faster off the line, and feels like it pulls harder because of how the power comes on. I've mostly kept it under 5k though. In brief runs up to just over 5k I've found myself saying "holy poo poo". Also, the rear end is much more stable. Doesn't get unsettled on rough concrete, feels more stable at turn in. It seems to taunt me to enter turns faster than I normally would. The brakes are a bit odd. They feel less boosted than in the E92. I find myself getting a tiny bit worried when approaching turn in and pressing more firmly than I think I should. It sounds amazing. I was worried I'd miss the V8 but this thing sounds like a loving monster. It pops and snarls on downshifts. Beautiful. I have H/K, but honestly I think the stereo isn't really better than the hi-fi in my M3. Kinda disappointed. Also you can't sync the temp across driver and passenger (no "All" button).
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Feb 6, 2015 00:23
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Thanks for the encouragement, i did look up what the fuel pump replacement entails before i made my decision (great guide here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=94sOpT8uuJM and no doubt i could do it. Doesn't seem more involved then doing the AC Blower motor which i did this fall. However i don't know for sure that it is the pump, it could still be frozen fuel line or something else i haven't even thought of. If it's the fuel line i literally can't fix it, since i don't have a heated garage. I have spent the last week trying to diagnose it in the evenings after coming home from work but it's cold, dark and i'm starting to feel like the cost benefit analysis (counting man hours) is tipping the wrong way. If it ends up being a frozen fuel line i'm out 80$ to BMW's diagnosis compared to if i towed it to a rented garage to taw out. If it's the fuel pump it's a lot more, but at least i'll know it's done by a BMW specialist after a proper diagnosis. If it's neither then i couldn't even diagnose it myself. I could turn it into an independent, but honestly i don't care to shop around at this point, i just want the job done and my car back. This probably makes me a bad AI poster but i'll pay for it with my honor and my poor poor wallet.
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Feb 6, 2015 00:33
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Awesome car. M4 front end is so aggressive looking.
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Feb 6, 2015 00:33
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BraveUlysses posted:Circa 1990 Problem spotted.  I had a shitload of toe and camber before I replaced mine
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Feb 6, 2015 00:37
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Killstick posted:Thanks for the encouragement, i did look up what the fuel pump replacement entails before i made my decision (great guide here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=94sOpT8uuJM and no doubt i could do it. Doesn't seem more involved then doing the AC Blower motor which i did this fall. However i don't know for sure that it is the pump, it could still be frozen fuel line or something else i haven't even thought of. If it's the fuel line i literally can't fix it, since i don't have a heated garage. I have spent the last week trying to diagnose it in the evenings after coming home from work but it's cold, dark and i'm starting to feel like the cost benefit analysis (counting man hours) is tipping the wrong way. It's worth diying to at least check it off as a thing that's been replaced. It's a disposable item. Once you replace it you should be able to hear it kick on.
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Feb 6, 2015 02:00
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Jealous Cow posted:So I traded the M3 for a big blue thing. Salt packaging doubles as a reference for your local airbrush artist.
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Feb 6, 2015 16:14
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ColdPie posted:Salt packaging doubles as a reference for your local airbrush artist. Haha yeah I raised an eyebrow over the package art.
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Feb 6, 2015 16:17
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So I've found a local seller selling a 2001 X5 3.0 for $6K. About 120K miles. Intend to get a full PPI before I pull the trigger but it seems like that is a pretty good price. He said he's willing to come down a little but is in no rush to sell and doesn't have the car advertised anywhere online just has it parked outside his shop. I've owned a '99 e39 so pretty familiar with most stuff that goes wrong in these cars, he did say he did the oil pan gasket and the front drive arm seals but didn't mention the GDCS so that will probably be a priority item. Anything else I should look for? Things I recall as missing pixels on the radio unit display, blower motor resistor, light control module and the steering rack seals from my earlier car, what else tends to go wrong on X5s?
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Feb 6, 2015 21:54
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Fox_bat posted:So I've found a local seller selling a 2001 X5 3.0 for $6K. About 120K miles. Intend to get a full PPI before I pull the trigger but it seems like that is a pretty good price. He said he's willing to come down a little but is in no rush to sell and doesn't have the car advertised anywhere online just has it parked outside his shop. Seems to be the same bullshit that E39s deal with. The early units didn't have X=drive, which is a little better system. The system in it is just a flat 40:60 biased to the rear axle. Also the autos tend to take more abuse in these, so prepare to possibly replace it. Oh and I think the panoramic sunroofs can be an utter oval office, so make sure that works smoothly.
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Feb 6, 2015 22:02
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Does anyone have any information or advice about problems with replacement CCV systems on the M54? I replaced the CCV and hoses last summer as preventative maintenance at around 140K miles and have been burning oil ever since. No smoke that I've managed to see, but I'm losing a quart every 600-800 miles. Before I touched anything I lost maybe a quart every 3500. There are no leaks. I replaced the VCG and oil filter housing gasket. The first round was poo poo-tier Febi stuff from Bavauto, which I quickly discovered was falling apart. Then I replaced the hoses that were causing problems with BMW hoses. Still burning oil. Installed new BMW CCV. Took the dipstick out and did my best to confirm that it's clear. No change in consumption. The original Febi CCV was a cold climate version and all hoses have been cold climate. The last CCV I put in was a BMW non-cold climate one, but I put the cold climate jacket on it. Anecdotally, some people have this problem with the cold weather stuff, but I don't know where to go from here. I recently learned that there's a new cold climate dipstick, but I can blow through my existing dipstick and run water through it with no problems. I'm in New Jersey, which gets fairly cold, but we haven't had any unusually bad cold snaps. I'm considering replacing everything with regular, not cold climate stuff, except adding the resigned dipstick. But I'm very sick of doing the CCV job and spending money on the same parts over and over again. PS: My intake manifold is pretty oily inside, the upper CCV hoses have the "mayo", the dipstick and oil return hose didn't. Car runs well.
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Feb 6, 2015 23:11
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barakus posted:Does anyone have any information or advice about problems with replacement CCV systems on the M54? I replaced the CCV and hoses last summer as preventative maintenance at around 140K miles and have been burning oil ever since. No smoke that I've managed to see, but I'm losing a quart every 600-800 miles. Before I touched anything I lost maybe a quart every 3500. There are no leaks. I replaced the VCG and oil filter housing gasket. Are all the hoses BMW cold climate hoses now? I'd start there and make sure you have quality hoses instead of Febi poo poo, the CCV system is pretty particular. Make sure none of them are pinched, especially the CCV to Dipstick one. After that I'd suspect a vacuum leak. Do you get strong vacuum from the dipstick or oil fill cap? Out of curiosity have you pulled the spark plugs to see how they look? Changed brands/weight of oil recently? How long are your drives? Mayo buildup is generally caused by the car not getting fully up to temp in cold climates. If your commute is less than 20 minutes, your oil probably isn't getting up to temp and the mayo is building up. Viper_3000 fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Feb 7, 2015 |
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Feb 7, 2015 04:51
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My last round of attempted repair was to replace the Febi CCV - dipstick hose and clean the dipstick. Well, I messed up and bought another Febi hose, but that particular hose seems simple enough that even Febi can't screw it up. Maybe that's overly optimistic on my part. All the rest of the hoses are now BMW cold climate ones. The dipstick is not cold climate. My work commute is 30 highway miles. I usually take a short trip for lunch, but I would think the drive home should clean any condensation out. It was never a problem in the stock system, as far as I can tell. I recently had a running problem despite everything I did for 150k mile maintenance and ending up giving up and taking it to a mechanic. Turns out the catalytic converters were clogged. $3,000 later, I'm terrified that the oil is going to clog them again before I figure this out. (Yes, I should have gotten some used exhaust manifolds and put them on myself) This is a poormobile, after all. Edit: light vacuum at valve cover and dipstick. The mechanic smoke tested it and found a small leak from a frayed cap at the rear of the intake manifold. barakus fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Feb 7, 2015 |
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Feb 7, 2015 05:28
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barakus posted:My last round of attempted repair was to replace the Febi CCV - dipstick hose and clean the dipstick. Well, I messed up and bought another Febi hose, but that particular hose seems simple enough that even Febi can't screw it up. Maybe that's overly optimistic on my part. I'm slightly stumped then. Oil in the intake manifold points towards CCV, but you've replaced that. I guess I'd probably replace that last Febi hose, considering it's the one that could cause the most trouble, with a cold weather BMW one. Could be that you just got a bad CCV from BMW, it happens but it seems unlikely to me. Check the Valve Cover Baffles, sometimes those can get sludged and clogged, same with the air distribution piece. Absolute worst case would be valve stem seals and/or piston rings. (A puff of oil smoke from the exhaust on an application of throttle following an extended closed throttle deceleration would point towards valve seals.) I think I remember reading about some people who ran a vacuum line from the smaller of the two nipples on the intake that's capped, over to the CCV nipple that's been capped and it's helped with oil consumption. Might be worth a shot. EDIT: Found it. Check here for that vacuum line loop I was talking about.
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Feb 7, 2015 06:40
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Viper_3000 posted:
I actually did connect that vacuum line last time I was in there. If anything it's worse now. Two weird hints: 1.) Every once in a while if I check the oil soon after driving, the oil level is extremely high, like a couple inches up the braided cable dipstick shaft itself. But the dipstick itself isn't clogged as far as I can tell. The low oil idiot light also goes on around when the dipstick shows a quart low, to confirm that the reading can sometimes be trusted. 2.) Last night the dipstick was showing a quart low, so I grabbed my 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 0w40. I would pour in a little, wait, check the dipstick, and repeat. It turns out that I put in over two quarts to hit the full level. This level was confirmed about an hour later and then again tonight after driving.  Edit: I found a few people on the various forms who only developed a CCV problem when installing a new cold climate kit. My nemesis, bavauto, posted about the issue on their blog. Defective CCV blog I bought my current BMW CCV from RM European. I want to know how both the BMW and Febi CCVs have the same flaw. I smell collusion! barakus fucked around with this message at 07:08 on Feb 7, 2015 |
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Feb 7, 2015 06:59
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So after replacing the brakes on my 04 325xi which has been parked in my garage for a month (needs cv joints badly and i have been too drat busy) i figured id cruise it up the block to the gas station to let the pads seat in. I went to start it and I felt the engine crank over but it instantly petered out. tried to start again and I can hear the starter motor whine but it isn't cranking over. I am guessing the starter motor isnt engaging the flywheel?
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Feb 7, 2015 08:50
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barakus posted:
I have a similar problem with my M54. I'm not sure if it's CCV related or just the "normal" oil burning issues the M54B30s tend to have. The PO had the CCV system replaced with (what appears to be) all OEM parts. Like you, I have no other smoke, smells, or poor running that would indicate a problem. Reading other people's experiences, some of whom have replaced the CCV system 3 or 4 times, I'm not hopeful just replacing it again is the answer. I was going to try to check engine vacuum against BMW spec and see if I can glean anything from that. Ghetto method here: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5990442&postcount=8 Not a definitive test, but one more piece of data to go on.
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Feb 7, 2015 14:02
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I'm pretty sure the m54 is just a oval office and everyone needs to just own e30s and e36s. 39 if you're feeling luxo-mobile-y and m70 powered e31 if you're awesome. No other BMWs exist.
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Feb 7, 2015 14:18
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1995 is my cut off date
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Feb 7, 2015 14:41
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barakus posted:I actually did connect that vacuum line last time I was in there. If anything it's worse now. Two weird hints: This makes me think the last Febi hose you have is pinched or hosed up in some way. barakus posted:2.) Last night the dipstick was showing a quart low, so I grabbed my 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 0w40. I would pour in a little, wait, check the dipstick, and repeat. It turns out that I put in over two quarts to hit the full level. This level was confirmed about an hour later and then again tonight after driving. This has me baffled. I don't know what the gently caress. Check it again, because that's loving weird. (You're sure there aren't any obvious leaks, right?) barakus posted:Edit: I found a few people on the various forms who only developed a CCV problem when installing a new cold climate kit. My nemesis, bavauto, posted about the issue on their blog. Defective CCV blog I bought my current BMW CCV from RM European. I'm guessing you might have gotten a bad CCV then, even though you didn't buy the cold weather version that seems to be most affected. I'd probably try one more OEM one (I'd still wrap it in the cold weather foam from the Febi), and replace the last Febi bullshit hose with a BMW cold weather one since you'll be in there. Maybe try a different weight of oil if that swap doesn't fix it. Past that, I'd turn it over to a BMW shop. gently caress it, make it their problem to diagnose/fix. barakus posted:I want to know how both the BMW and Febi CCVs have the same flaw. I smell collusion! Febi, I'm assuming, doesn't do any real engineering/extensive QC. They just rip off the BMW design. If there's a flaw on the original they based the design off of, then I'm sure they just copied it.
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Feb 7, 2015 15:49
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Note to friends! If you do the E39 fuel pump, go ahead and buy some fuel injection hose clamps and make sure you got diagonal cutters cause SURE AS poo poo they used the dumb single use clamps on that fuel pump output under the seat! *grumbles*
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Feb 7, 2015 19:59
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SuperDucky posted:I'm pretty sure the m54 is just a oval office and everyone needs to just own e30s and e36s. 39 if you're feeling luxo-mobile-y and m70 powered e31 if you're awesome. No other BMWs exist. M54 in an E30 is where it's at.
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Feb 7, 2015 20:31
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what can you do with a M54 that you can't do with an S52 which is a whole lot easier to switch, get an alumium bock? That's the only think I can think of really.
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Feb 7, 2015 20:58
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rscott posted:what can you do with a M54 that you can't do with an S52 which is a whole lot easier to switch, get an alumium bock? That's the only think I can think of really. Get a fair amount more torque, far more midrange, weigh less, etc. Hell, you can probably find one cheaper than a S52 at this point. 
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Feb 7, 2015 |
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Feb 7, 2015 21:24
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BlackMK4 posted:Get a fair amount more torque, far more midrange, weigh less, etc. Hell, you can probably find one cheaper than a S52 at this point.  nice. time to start looking for M54's I guess.
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Feb 7, 2015 22:09
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Got the 540 running! Sorta Fuel pump swap led to some more diagnosis as I clearly had no go-juice at the lines up front. Ended up cleaning the contacts on the 4-pin harness for the pump and tank that plugs into the top of the tank. Start! On 7 cylinders, clearly. Tailpipe is gas-wet and it sounds like a tractor, kinda revs but not really. Fresh plugs next, I suppose? No idea on their age. I know coils can be an issue on these but I figure I'll swap stuff I can get at Advance before I start ordering more poo poo. --- Or should I just let it run/idle for a bit? It's been without battery power for >6 months and we replaced a heavily clogged fuel filter right before that. Might it need to recalibrate some poo poo? No check engine across about 2-3 minutes of idling.
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Feb 8, 2015 00:57
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My 540 only threw codes when it was really cold outside when it was missing all 4 grounds on one plug with the rest of the plugs in various states of escape.
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Feb 8, 2015 01:29
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Yeah, those +4's or whatever terrify me. Advance on the corner has the NGK BKR6EK's for 6 apiece and I got a 20% off coupon. I'll hit those in the morning and see what we can see. It's a constant misfire, it's not stuttering or anything, sluggish on the gas (though i've of course just revved it in the driveway a bit, not driving yet). It's gotta be either that or some shitted-out coils. I've got The Valve Cover Gasket Leak, but it's not like Exxon Valdez-level in there, only residual stuff from the last time I sucked the oil out, buuuuut it's possible the boots have oil soaked in and they're killing spark.
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Feb 8, 2015 01:41
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Check for continuity between the pins. I think these are smart coils so there shouldn't be continuity between any of the pins on the coils. That's how I found out which coil pack was bad on my 540i. Finally got to work on the beater 5's window. Looks like the spool's cable got snagged on an undeburred hole in the bracket and hosed up the cable. I hope autohauzaz deals with returns nicely. The e24 decided it hates me from lack of attention. Battery was dead, jumped it and got no start. Seems like the wiring to the dual vr sensors in the bell housing is suspect. Got it to start after messing with them. Runs incredible rich so I think the coolant temp sensor is bad as well. Clutch went to the floor when I tried to drive it a month ago, but for some reason has fixed itself. Car needs Megasquirt bad...
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Feb 8, 2015 11:17
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After a 12 hour sit, the fuel lines in mine are still good and pressurized, leading me to kind of rule out a stuck injector as my rich/misfire cause. I think.
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Feb 8, 2015 23:04
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Could it just be your fuel lines purging air bubbles? When I had my fuel rail and injectors pulled while pulling the intake manifold I had my lines cleared out all the way to the fuel filter. After a few starts/sputter out then an Italian tune-up after it sounded much better all was right again with the S52.
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Feb 8, 2015 23:17
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Could be. It was definitely run till death of the old fuel pump. I would think that the bubbles/air pockets moving around and purging would cause a more uneven misfire though, and it sounds like it's staying on one cylinder the whole time.
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Feb 8, 2015 23:42
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There's a relay you can jump to run the fuel pump to prime the system
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Feb 9, 2015 00:40
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| # ? Apr 20, 2024 02:52 |
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So if any of our are considering an E46 M3 or RS3 V2s. I can't recommend the combination strongly enough. It's loving fast in autocross. Out of 66 divers I took 2nd in pro, 2nd over all in PAX, 6th over all in raw, in a stock class car. It was quite the adrenalin rush. http://youtu.be/kRe5tnQbyzE
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Feb 9, 2015 15:14
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