|
Here's the banes I've been working on. Did one as a test model then two more. Only 9 to go until I have a full unit with UA   I'm pretty happy with how they turned out. I've since based and hit them with a layer of matte finish. From what this thread has said though matte finishes don't provide a hard protective coat like a gloss one will. So should I be gloss coating -> matte coating? EDIT: timg, holy broken tables.
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2015 06:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 01:04 |
|
|
Chance II posted:What scale should I look for (1/8, 3/16 ,etc) for styrene I-beams from 28mm miniatures terrain? Here's a cheap trick that train companies don't want you to know! Y'know those signs you see for things like "Single? Try <namedcity.org>" or "We Buy Houses Cheap!" or, during autumn, various political "vote for me" signs? Most of them are made of corrugated plastic. It's stuff you can find at sign-making shops and most DIY stores like Home Depot, but most likely you can find it for free on the ground, blown over from the wind or trapped in piles of snow. You take that stuff, and you slice it inbetween fluted sections. RubbishinRubbishout did a quick video on it years ago, and since then I've kept my eye open for any signs that have wandered off into bushes or are otherwise abandoned and snatch'em up.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2015 07:55
|
|
|
Slimnoid posted:Here's a cheap trick that train companies don't want you to know! Interesting. I honestly have never ever seen this kind of corrugated plastic where I live. I will have to keep an eye out, it looks super useful for WW2 stuff.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2015 08:27
|
|
|
I've put down the undercoat, hit it with Future and let it dry. What's the timing between putting down the crackle medium, priming over it and painting over the primer if I want to give it some chipping effects?
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2015 15:19
|
|
|
How long should I wait between dullcote coats?
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2015 23:06
|
|
|
Throbbing blob posted:How long should I wait between dullcote coats? Are you spraying it on? Maybe 10-15 min? It takes about a day to cure entirely, but you don't need to wait that long.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2015 23:08
|
|
|
Throbbing blob posted:How long should I wait between dullcote coats? I spray one side, turn 180, spray the other side, wait 15-20 min, and then repeat. Metal miniatures get an additional coat after that one, as I tend not to gloss varnish. The more coats you put on (especially in quick succession), the longer it will take to dry as a whole. I've had models dry completely in 15 minutes, and others take the better part of a day or two. Once again, between coats, 10-15 min (like Bulbasaur said) should be sufficient.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2015 23:59
|
|
|
BULBASAUR posted:Are you spraying it on? Maybe 10-15 min? It takes about a day to cure entirely, but you don't need to wait that long. Yes I am. I thought it was only the glosscote that took a day or more to cure completely, while the dullcote was much quicker. Edit: Ok, thanks. I'll give them another go then. Fish and Chimps fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Feb 6, 2015 |
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2015 23:59
|
|
|
Anything that's lacquer/oil based takes a day or so to properly cure. In practice it means that it's dry enough to work with within 30min to an hour, but the full effect doesn't come through until about a day after. Also it's gonna stink for just as long.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 03:17
|
|
|
This is the first mini that I've tried to paint. It's essentially my learn-to model for a number of things that a few patient locals are trying to pace me through. Grargh, taking pictures blows up all these loving mistakes. I have a lot more fun assembling things then painting, I think.   I'm a little less then half done, I think. I'm doing highlights on some of the tyranid parts tomorrow then moving on to the ork and metal bits. I'm doing another coat of yellow tomorrow over what's up there since it needed to dry and the store was closing.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 07:29
|
|
|
drat fine conversion. Painting that white over black must be killer. It looks really good so far.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 08:57
|
|
|
I've been working on my Stompa for a while now. The paint's coming along nicely but not enough that I wanna take WIP shots of it yet. However, the Battlewagon cab that's used as its head now does this, thanks to a goon buddy:
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 10:45
|
|
|
Throbbing blob posted:How long should I wait between dullcote coats? Like others have said - but also don't put more than 2 coats on before letting it cure fully overnight and seeing the final effect. Heavy use of dullcote can give your mini a slight whitish tint, so go easy on it or you can lose your hard work shading. Gloss doesn't have this effect, which is another reason to use a thick coat of gloss and deploy the dullcote sparingly.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 13:15
|
|
|
http://youtu.be/GbfVmzF7N4g
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 14:30
|
|
|
I'm trying to get back into doing some painting and want to make my Necrons look a little more interesting by adding some OSL here and there. I'm painting the guns and eyes orange and using GW paints (Jokaero, Troll Slayer, Fire Dragon Bright) but OSL is one effect I've really never managed to get right. It always tends to look too "painted on" and not natural enough, for lack of a better description. Does anyone have any good advice/sources of information for getting a good looking OSL on that kind of scale? I've heard of people using drybrushing, glazes and standard paints and really don't know where to start with it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 16:41
|
|
|
Fuegan posted:I'm trying to get back into doing some painting and want to make my Necrons look a little more interesting by adding some OSL here and there. I'm painting the guns and eyes orange and using GW paints (Jokaero, Troll Slayer, Fire Dragon Bright) but OSL is one effect I've really never managed to get right. It always tends to look too "painted on" and not natural enough, for lack of a better description. Does anyone have any good advice/sources of information for getting a good looking OSL on that kind of scale? I've heard of people using drybrushing, glazes and standard paints and really don't know where to start with it. http://handcannononline.com/blog/2011/08/05/tutorial-advanced-object-source-lighting/ http://chestofcolors.com/osl-tips-tutorial/ There's several ways to do OSL, and it all depends on what you have available. If you have an airbrush, it's almost pitifully easy--just point in the direction light is coming from and spray away. Well, it's not THAT easy, but compared to hand-painting things it certainly feels that way. If you're doing it by hand, glazes are the way to go. Careful application of multiple layers of glazes of differing color can get a realistic look to your OSL, keeping in mind where the color would be coming from and that the brightness degrades over time (a torchlight would be white-yellow in the center, to yellow, to orange, and finally an orange-red near the edges). If you don't have glazes or glazing medium, watering down the paint until it's to the consistency of skim milk will work in a pinch, and if you're just doing something small with a couple colors to it then that works perfectly fine. One trick I've seen people do, is to set a light near a miniature where they plan to have OSL, and take photos of it. Typically it's over a black base coated model for better reflection, and taken from multiple angles to give a reference to follow. I've never done it myself, but it's certainly worth a shot if you're having trouble figuring out how to lay the light down.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 16:53
|
|
|
Z the IVth posted:Like others have said - but also don't put more than 2 coats on before letting it cure fully overnight and seeing the final effect. I ended up actually leaving it over night instead, as it was getting pretty late. They definitely need another coat though, the glosscote is shining through pretty heavily.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 18:00
|
|
|
Slimnoid posted:Really useful info. Thanks, there's some really handy stuff there! Looks like I can pick up a couple of glazes and give it a try this evening.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 18:26
|
|
|
Fuegan posted:Thanks, there's some really handy stuff there! Looks like I can pick up a couple of glazes and give it a try this evening. You can pick up a bottle of glaze medium at most art stores for about $10 or less, and it will let you make glazes out of pretty much every paint in your collection and will last a long time. The GW ones aren't bad by any means, but price per ounce you're going to be better off making them yourself. I'd only do that once you get the hang of how glazes work though, which isn't very different from washes to be honest. Food for thought.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 18:36
|
|
|
Slimnoid posted:You can pick up a bottle of glaze medium at most art stores for about $10 or less, and it will let you make glazes out of pretty much every paint in your collection and will last a long time. The GW ones aren't bad by any means, but price per ounce you're going to be better off making them yourself. I'd only do that once you get the hang of how glazes work though, which isn't very different from washes to be honest. Food for thought. Ive had a bottle of glaze medium sitting around for a while and Ive played around without much success. Am I correct in assuming you just thin your paint down a whole lot? I tryed that with some GW Moot Green, to use for a glow effect on a grav gun. It didnt come out as well as the examples I had seen using premade glazes. Seemed like the glaze medium made it a bit milky looking.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 21:21
|
|
|
Hey guys, I've been working on an updated OP for the thread. I've been working on it off and on for the past couple of months and it's at the stage where I can start asking for feedback and comments. There was someone who messaged me about helping out (Bulbasaur? not sure! sorry! get in touch again...) but you're all welcome to comment on the Google Doc here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1cOSJVCDTU5d-3S_6bs1pATSc0q2vOcCsQpV2TjBUQYc/edit?usp=sharing I don't want to make it a huge, all-encompassing 'how to paint your miniatures' type thing, just get the basics and some intermediate stuff in the OP, advanced stuff can be requested and filler questions asked in the main thread. Here are the things I will be filled out soon: basic equipment Bulbasaur's oil wash tutorial stuff ...anything else? If anyone wants to suggest a subject to write about, a YouTube video to share, if you have a goon painting blog or if you do commission work, feel free to leave a comment in the appropriate area.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 21:30
|
|
|
Speckled Jim posted:Ive had a bottle of glaze medium sitting around for a while and Ive played around without much success. Am I correct in assuming you just thin your paint down a whole lot? I tryed that with some GW Moot Green, to use for a glow effect on a grav gun. It didnt come out as well as the examples I had seen using premade glazes. Seemed like the glaze medium made it a bit milky looking. I've only been experimenting with home-made glazes very recently, but the ratio I've seen suggested for an 'average' glaze is 1:1:1 of paint, glaze, and water. People suggest distilled water, but I use tap water without a problem; it might be an issue if where you live has hard water or whatever. Typically I just eyeball the ratios, erring on the side of just a bit more water than the other two. I got a sneaking suspicion that it might be better to just make my own bottles of the stuff, rather than doing it on the spot with a pallet. Maybe someone else has more experience with it than I. Edit: krushgroove posted:Hey guys, I've been working on an updated OP for the thread. I've been working on it off and on for the past couple of months and it's at the stage where I can start asking for feedback and comments. There was someone who messaged me about helping out (Bulbasaur? not sure! sorry! get in touch again...) but you're all welcome to comment on the Google Doc here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1cOSJVCDTU5d-3S_6bs1pATSc0q2vOcCsQpV2TjBUQYc/edit?usp=sharing This is all pretty comprehensive from what I can tell. Added some suggestions here and there. Slimnoid fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Feb 6, 2015 |
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 21:50
|
|
|
I don't really like glaze medium that much. I just run into a lot of problem with it. For glazes I just heavily dilute paint with water. This does not work with certain paints like minitaire. The pigment just isn't ground fine enough and it leaves a splotchy, speckled mess behind. It definitely does work with reaper paints.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 22:02
|
|
|
Just wrapped up my US half of the Bolt Action starter set. I also followed this handy guide and picked up a hella cheap Sherman. Doesn't look bad after a new coat of paint!  Shot next to infantry for scale in case anyone else is interested. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 23:34
|
|
|
You need to tweak the white balance in your pics.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 23:36
|
|
|
So I'm about to paint a whole bunch of stuff that will use substantial amounts of red, and I seem to remember someone here suggesting a colour for a wash over red (other than red!) that got exciting results. Purple? Green? I cannot recall. Any advice gratefully received.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 23:44
|
|
|
evenworse username posted:So I'm about to paint a whole bunch of stuff that will use substantial amounts of red, and I seem to remember someone here suggesting a colour for a wash over red (other than red!) that got exciting results. Purple? Green? I cannot recall. Green is usually recommended, yeah. Nice contrasting color. Personally I like to add a purple wash to the recesses, as I feel it helps make the red appear much more rich and add depth.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 23:55
|
|
|
krushgroove posted:Hey guys, I've been working on an updated OP for the thread. I've been working on it off and on for the past couple of months and it's at the stage where I can start asking for feedback and comments. There was someone who messaged me about helping out (Bulbasaur? not sure! sorry! get in touch again...) but you're all welcome to comment on the Google Doc here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1cOSJVCDTU5d-3S_6bs1pATSc0q2vOcCsQpV2TjBUQYc/edit?usp=sharing That's a drat good OP
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2015 00:18
|
|
|
I'm still learning how to use an airbrush and had some red paint bleed out onto the model under the masking I had put down. Is there an easy way to clean up those spots? Under the red I want to remove is just a gloss coat if that helps.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2015 01:03
|
|
|
Should I be doing a gloss coat before applying washes? I watched a few videos recently and noticed that the painters would do: base coat, highlight, gloss coat, wash. Any reason for the gloss before wash?
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2015 01:51
|
|
|
Can someone recommend me some videos, paid or not, for good application of fundamentals like how to use glazes and washes and inks, proper thinned paint consistency, color picking, and other such beginner topics? I need to.. heh. BRUSH UP on my painting basics. I want videos specifically so I can see what it is these people are talking about.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2015 02:13
|
|
|
Commissar Canuck posted:I'm still learning how to use an airbrush and had some red paint bleed out onto the model under the masking I had put down. Is there an easy way to clean up those spots? Under the red I want to remove is just a gloss coat if that helps. If it's gloss underneath you should be able to remove the paint using alcohol or mineral spirits. Just be careful when doing so, as I doubt you want to get rid of the paint you DO want on there. Dremcon posted:Any reason for the gloss before wash? It's easier to clean up if you mess up somewhere, and the smooth surface means there's less surface tension, meaning the wash will slip into the recesses. Very useful for black lining if you don't have/don't want to use oil washes. That said, it's not essential for every model. Or even most models. signalnoise posted:Can someone recommend me some videos, paid or not, for good application of fundamentals like how to use glazes and washes and inks, proper thinned paint consistency, color picking, and other such beginner topics? I need to.. heh. BRUSH UP on my painting basics. I want videos specifically so I can see what it is these people are talking about. I'd say Buypainted but a lot of his stuff is now behind a paywall. A good amount of his stuff is still on youtube I think.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2015 03:00
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:Can someone recommend me some videos, paid or not, for good application of fundamentals like how to use glazes and washes and inks, proper thinned paint consistency, color picking, and other such beginner topics? I need to.. heh. BRUSH UP on my painting basics. I want videos specifically so I can see what it is these people are talking about. 3 Colors Up on youtube has a fairly extensive library. Also the painter is like a French Bob Ross.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2015 04:32
|
|
|
Skarsnik posted:That's a drat good OP Thanks! Another week or so and it should be ready to go live.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2015 12:32
|
|
|
krushgroove posted:Thanks! Another week or so and it should be ready to go live. Can I suggest adding Magic Sculpt to the putties and fillers section? Its superior to greenstuff for filling as you can sand it smooth afterwards. It also doesn't shrink.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2015 12:57
|
|
|
Definitely! I've only recently gotten my first sample of it, so I haven't tried it myself yet. It seems a bit like Miliput in that it's sandable.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2015 13:19
|
|
|
Z the IVth posted:Can I suggest adding Magic Sculpt to the putties and fillers section? Its superior to greenstuff for filling as you can sand it smooth afterwards. It also doesn't shrink. Magic Sculpt works best when mixed with greenstuff, all the detail of MS and some flexibility.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2015 13:26
|
|
|
Great, added those, and actually expanded the gap-filling section slightly with the products that are more suitable for actual sculpting.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2015 14:06
|
|
|
I think you should probably break that into multiple smaller posts. Making that all in one is just super overwhelming. And somewhere in there, make a link to this thread for the sake of old timer nostalgia in posters like me. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2015 14:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 01:04 |
|
|
The page breaks are individual posts, so that's taken care of. I'll put a link to this thread at the top of the first post 
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2015 14:43
|
|