|
mr.belowaverage posted:No, it does not. Well I ended up spending half the day at the mechanic. Mass Air Flow sensor cabling was acting weird - fixed that. Then it wasn't getting the right airflow anyways...replaced the MAF. Then the car started throwing codes left and right. Half the engine was running rich... all the fuel injectors were running high (over recommended amount). Mechanic said we could replace them all or just flush the fuel system and see what happens. Repairing just the items above was around $800 .... so I said "gently caress it"... put everything back to the way it was when I came in and drove the junker over to a car lot and traded it in for a new car. I've been looking at getting a new car for a while now and it's not like I couldn't afford it. The 2002 Nissan Sentra I purchased brand new in 2002, so it gave me a good long run and it was time to put her to bed. I walked off the lot with a brand new 2014 Nissan Sentra SR in a very beautiful metallic blue.  I'm sad to see my old beast go, but this new car is the bomb.
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2015 14:57
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 20, 2024 00:54 |
|
|
nitrogen posted:ok so I have to ask, why won't California Autozones do this? Hawai'i, too. I can't find exactly why (i.e. law names, case names, etc), but it boils down to auto parts stores doing for free what mechanics charge money for. Enough mechanics probably complained that it was written into law.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2015 15:52
|
|
|
Emissions laws, probably. With the parts store reader you can reset your codes to try and dodge emissions tests.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2015 16:09
|
|
|
AquarianFire, the injectors weren't at fault, if they get told by the ECU to run that fast, they do. Something was screwy with the fuel management system and it probably wouldn't have cost that much to fix it, but oh well. I looked at the wiring diagrams and it appears that it was a modern engine with upstream catalytic converters and four oxygen sensors. If anything since half the engine was running rich I would have put my money on an upstream O2 sensor being worn out or damaged. The reason this causes stuff like that is that the oxygen sensors detect unburned oxygen in the exhaust. If one is reading the wrong value, or there's an exhaust leak that's letting in extra oxygen upstream of the sensor, they crank the fuel input up more to compensate for the "lean condition" they see, which doesn't help because the sensor's hosed or there's an air leak that's throwing the reading off, so you end up with every cylinder that sensor is reporting on running full-rich mode. Oh well - too late now. Next time, be aware at worst you could probably get a grand or two for it on craigslist if you felt like dealing with it, which is way more than junkyards pay. The problem here is that probably 99% of mechanics have no real idea how electronics or EFI systems work, and just throw expensive parts (which usually aren't the problem) until the customer either gets tired of spending money or they find the problem by accident. It's a bad state of things and I really wish it wasn't that way. Slavvy posted:Quoting for progress. Car runs with every sensor disconnected. Connecting them one by one led to not much change in idle until the engine temp sensor, which caused a noticeable drop (like 450-500rpm in D/R with low beams, indicator and windscreen wipers going). Guess I have to re-examine that, now. That's entirely expected, it's going from full high resistance, open circuit (usually reads as HOLY gently caress THIS ENGINE IS COLD AS HELL AHHHHHH FULL COLD START MAX INJECTOR PULSEWIDTH IMMEDIATELY) to a sane, up to temp CTS reading when you plug it in, so now it's acting like it knows what temp it's at. Now, why it's aiming so low for idle speed when warmed up, I have no loving clue. I don't know Toyota EFI that well.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2015 16:14
|
|
|
MRC48B posted:Emissions laws, probably. With the parts store reader you can reset your codes to try and dodge emissions tests. Yeah, this is the supposed reason, although I wonder if it really mattered because then your readiness state wouldn't be set in the ECU until you complete the proper drive cycles.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2015 16:30
|
|
|
CharlesM posted:Yeah, this is the supposed reason, although I wonder if it really mattered because then your readiness state wouldn't be set in the ECU until you complete the proper drive cycles. The actual reason and the reason the lawmakers understand don't necessarily have to be the same.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2015 16:55
|
|
|
Extra posted:Some friendly gentleman who seemed to know a ton more about automobiles than I did informed me all FWD cars with open differentials will eventually destroy the transaxle if subjected to regular loss of traction (spinning tires). Is this true? Reposting this from the last thread, I am wondering if I'm destroying my wife's car.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2015 17:19
|
|
|
Safety Dance posted:The actual reason and the reason the lawmakers understand don't necessarily have to be the same. Is it an Autozone thing or any shop in California, Hawai'i, etc? If it's the former, could just be a regional store policy for whatever stupid liability reason or whatever.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2015 17:20
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:Is it an Autozone thing or any shop in California, Hawai'i, etc? If it's the former, could just be a regional store policy for whatever stupid liability reason or whatever. Any shop that would normally scan your codes for free, as far as I know.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2015 17:21
|
|
|
GOD IS BED posted:Reposting this from the last thread, I am wondering if I'm destroying my wife's car. No. I don't know where he got that idea. Spinning the tires won't do anything at all to destroy the diff. Heavily loading them repeatedly to spin them will obviously cause issues (like on dry pavement), but that has little to to with FWD/open diff/LSD. But the most likely place to break parts when spinning tires - which again has nothing to do with FWD/open diff/etc - is when they're spinning and you suddenly regain traction, like going from mud to dry tarmac or spinning on a patch of ice and then hitting dry hitting tarmac.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2015 17:32
|
|
|
Panda Time posted:
Also, I'm not sure if other links are frowned upon heavily here, but here are some resources for you. 3rd generation specific. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/82033-3rd-gen-4runner-buyers-guide.html. READ THIS READ THIS TOP TO BOTTOM. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/167629-3rd-gen-faq-tutorials-documentation-reference-v2.html All maintenance/mod threads you could possibly ever need/want. Also FAQs. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/68892-b-m-70268-supercooler-transmission-cooler-install-3rd-gen.html This is the writeup I followed, although I installed it a bit differently. The thought of intentionally bending the fins of my condensor and radiator gave me the willies.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2015 17:52
|
|
thank you each for this wisdom.
|
Safety Dance posted:The actual reason and the reason the lawmakers understand don't necessarily have to be the same. Hence my use of the word supposed. :P totalnewbie posted:Is it an Autozone thing or any shop in California, Hawai'i, etc? If it's the former, could just be a regional store policy for whatever stupid liability reason or whatever. All the chains in California are this way now. I don't see any evidence it's an actual law but probably a reaction to a reinterpretation of an existing law or a class action lawsuit. Motronic posted:No. I don't know where he got that idea. If it's a Mazda doing anything would break the LSD. You're better off with an open diff :P LeeMajors posted:Also, I'm not sure if other links are frowned upon heavily here, but here are some resources for you. 3rd generation specific. Linking to any useful resource is great! Don't know why it would be frowned upon.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2015 18:45
|
|
|
kastein posted:AquarianFire, the injectors weren't at fault, if they get told by the ECU to run that fast, they do. Something was screwy with the fuel management system and it probably wouldn't have cost that much to fix it, but oh well. I looked at the wiring diagrams and it appears that it was a modern engine with upstream catalytic converters and four oxygen sensors. If anything since half the engine was running rich I would have put my money on an upstream O2 sensor being worn out or damaged. The reason this causes stuff like that is that the oxygen sensors detect unburned oxygen in the exhaust. If one is reading the wrong value, or there's an exhaust leak that's letting in extra oxygen upstream of the sensor, they crank the fuel input up more to compensate for the "lean condition" they see, which doesn't help because the sensor's hosed or there's an air leak that's throwing the reading off, so you end up with every cylinder that sensor is reporting on running full-rich mode. The idle speed is reasonable if it's warm and you have no electrical stuff going. Turning on the headlights, then the wipers, then the indicator makes the idle progressively drop each time when it's in D. It just can't seem to bring the idle up to compensate but I don't know if that's because it is physically unable to, or if it's getting a bunk signal from something and running too rich for the temperature. I'll replace the coolant temp sensor because I'm running out of poo poo to throw at it; at this rate I'll have an entirely new engine management system and still no fix. At least parts cost a pittance. Motronic posted:No. I don't know where he got that idea. Nah. Spinning one tyre on an open diff is a great way to shatter the spider gears. When I worked at toyota we were doing Hiace diffs all the time because of over-zealous courier drivers parking them in mud and spinning up one of the wheels. There was a petition of sorts to convince Toyota to fit them with the Hilux LSD to stop this happening.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2015 18:56
|
|
|
Spinning one wheel for too long can also overload the hydrodynamic bearing (aka flats on the cross shaft that let oil in between the shaft and the spider gear bore) in the differential and friction weld the gears to the cross shaft. It's not common but it does happen, the weld is generally just strong enough to hold momentarily, then lets loose again and goodbye bits of drivetrain.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2015 22:33
|
|
|
Really though if you're rally crossing your car you don't expect anything to break?
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2015 00:39
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:At least parts cost a pittance. Sounds like it's narrowed down to management systems, at least. Question re: 2003 Toyota Echo A/T, crank, no start We got this in as a trade, and I picked it up to replace my mom's identical car, since hers has the rockers and subframe rotting out, and this one does not. Customer drove it in on its own power, with no real issues. I left it outside in freezing temps for a week or so, now it won't start. No codes. Has spark. Techs at my shop told me fuel pump wasn't running. Replaced with wrecker part, no change. I can feel the pump run with my hand on it. I have only the key the customer drove the car to us with, which worked when we drove it in the first day. What's next?
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2015 04:23
|
|
|
Assuming you don't have a scan tool that can go beyond just looking at fault codes, unplug an injector and stick a pulse led on it to see if they're getting a signal. Has it got an immobiliser? And is this a 1SZ or a 1/2NZ engine?
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2015 06:58
|
|
|
I was with a friend when he got his codes read at an Oil Stop for free a couple years ago (in California), is that a recent change?
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2015 08:59
|
|
|
within the past 5 years or so
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2015 11:13
|
|
|
1. So.. I have a 2002 Civic which requires a emissions\drive clean test. The 'check engine' light is on, does it mean I will fail? I know this seems to be the case for newer cars, but this car is pretty old. 2., Question about OBD2 code readers. Do all newer cars basically use this interface ? I figure I'd buy one since they seem to be pretty cheap for check engine code diagnostics. I assume, you just get a bluetooth one, then connect it to an android phone and download the app?
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2015 16:35
|
|
|
lol internet. posted:2., Question about OBD2 code readers. Do all newer cars basically use this interface ? I figure I'd buy one since they seem to be pretty cheap for check engine code diagnostics. I assume, you just get a bluetooth one, then connect it to an android phone and download the app? Yeah, all cars since 1996 should use it. I bought this one and it works great with the Torque app. BAFX Products - Bluetooth OBD2 scan tool - For check engine light & diagnostics - Android ONLY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_LUI2ub1MDYBR8
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2015 17:05
|
|
|
My understanding is that the "californian stores won't read codes" thing is an overly broad interpretation of "don't clear codes for people" or a ham handed smog law of some sort. The sad thing is that it's all loving pointless because you won't pass emissions checks if you show up with all your monitors reading "not ready" because you got a store employee to clear your codes anyways.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2015 17:15
|
|
|
I need to have the windshield replaced on my 1994 Honda Civic hatchback. I know it is an old model but is $500 too much for the repair? This is what safelite quoted because they mentioned needing to order/replace the "clips" that hold the glass in place.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2015 18:11
|
|
|
That seems pretty loving steep. Unless it's some weirdo design (like the current Wrangler) it should be much more than 200 or so. I paid $250 for a '66 Corvette windshield with OE-style tint, including replacing 13 clips around it and the labor to deal with all the chrome trim pieces around it. Shop around. You can probably do better. What I would suggest is to actually call your insurance agent's office and ask if they have a recommendation. You can bet they hear the good/bad stories from people. Edit: Also your insurance might cover it. If you have glass coverage it shouldn't count as a claim.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2015 18:44
|
|
|
Godholio posted:That seems pretty loving steep. Unless it's some weirdo design (like the current Wrangler) it should be much more than 200 or so. I paid $250 for a '66 Corvette windshield with OE-style tint, including replacing 13 clips around it and the labor to deal with all the chrome trim pieces around it. I only have liability on my car but I did contact a local place who even gave me different quality glass options and including clips/molding/mobile service it turned out to be $329.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2015 19:07
|
|
|
Budget Dracula posted:I only have liability on my car but I did contact a local place who even gave me different quality glass options and including clips/molding/mobile service it turned out to be $329. Thats pretty reasonable. Mobile service is so loving worth it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2015 19:23
|
|
|
kastein posted:My understanding is that the "californian stores won't read codes" thing is an overly broad interpretation of "don't clear codes for people" or a ham handed smog law of some sort. I've emailed Autozone customer support for a clarification of their policy.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2015 19:53
|
|
|
Hi guys. Hopefully this isn't too stupid a question, here goes. My 2007 Dodge Charger SXT (3.5L RWD) has been leaking oil for some time. The threads on my oil pan are apparently stripped from over tightening the plug during an oil change at some point over the years. I've had an oversized plug put in there but that's not doing much for it anymore, so I've decided maybe it's just time to replace the oil pan itself. The dealership a long time ago the oil pan was like a $600 part, so I was hoping maybe I could get one cheaper at a junkyard. Now onto the question at hand.. I know that the Charger shares the same chassis as a bunch of Chrysler vehicles of that era. If I don't have any luck finding the oil pan from a Charger, would one from a Magnum or a 300 work? Just trying to expand my options a little bit and hopefully avoid paying Dodge all that money. Thanks guys, I appreciate it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2015 02:49
|
|
|
Looks like they're $200ish new on eBay, and $100ish used from various junkyards near me on car-part.com. I'd avoid any pick-n-pull type junkyards; they punch the oil pan to drain it quicker. Plus, they wouldn't have anything that new in there anyway. E: To actually answer your question, I don't know if the oil pan is the same across multiple vehicles. Depends on where crossmembers are, and that sort of thing. But, according to that eBay ad, it only "fits" Chargers and Magnums '06-'07. Also, I don't know if the AWD ones use a different oil pan or anything. Raluek fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Feb 11, 2015 |
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2015 03:13
|
|
|
Stupid questions on Moog repair parts for my 87 B2000. A couple of tie rod ends I have from Moog are from their "problem solver" line and came with a grease fitting in the baggie with the castle nut and cotter pin. Are these pre-greased or do I need to install the fitting and grease it myself? And for the other related parts (the opposite tie rod ends and the pittmann arms) that aren't "problem solver" -- those are already greased and sealed, right?
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2015 03:19
|
|
|
If they include a grease zerk and a hole to screw it into, you need to screw it in and fill it with grease at least once, and preferably regularly. If not, fill it with grease once and then put a threaded plug in instead of the zerk, if you leave the hole wide open it'll quickly fill with road debris and water and/or salt and ruin the new joint.Santheb posted:Hi guys. Hopefully this isn't too stupid a question, here goes. I checked and surprisingly rockauto doesn't list your pan. If you do get one from a junkyard make sure that it's from at least a RWD vehicle, preferably a Charger, as sometimes the front suspension and steering subsystems have a great impact on the shape of the oil pan in a vehicle and they may be different year to year.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2015 03:22
|
|
|
^^That was the first place I looked too and I was disappointed that they didn't have it. I'd feel better ordering it from them than from the guy on eBay, but $200 shipped isn't too bad I guess. Cheaper than I thought it'd be.Raluek posted:Looks like they're $200ish new on eBay, and $100ish used from various junkyards near me on car-part.com. I'd avoid any pick-n-pull type junkyards; they punch the oil pan to drain it quicker. Plus, they wouldn't have anything that new in there anyway. I hadn't even thought to check eBay, that's interesting. Something like this looks like it's exactly what I need. http://m.ebay.com/itm/321212542961?nav=SEARCH I checked sites like rockauto.com but they didn't have the part listed, which lead me to believe it might've been a dealer only part. I'd just be worried about ordering it from eBay and it not being the correct part. A pick-n-pull junkyard was probably what I was looking at too, I figured that even on a totalled car that the oil pan might still be good but it's always better to buy new I suppose. Thank you sir, I appreciate the input. Santheb fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Feb 11, 2015 |
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2015 03:24
|
|
|
kastein posted:If they include a grease zerk and a hole to screw it into, you need to screw it in and fill it with grease at least once, and preferably regularly. If not, fill it with grease once and then put a threaded plug in instead of the zerk, if you leave the hole wide open it'll quickly fill with road debris and water and/or salt and ruin the new joint.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2015 03:28
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Assuming you don't have a scan tool that can go beyond just looking at fault codes, unplug an injector and stick a pulse led on it to see if they're getting a signal. No immobilizer, looks to be the 1nz-fe. Pulse led? Is that some kind of special injector pulse reading tool? Or just any test light? What would cause all the injectors to fail a week after running fine? Or are we thinking they aren't getting the signal to fire? I'll check that and anything I can read off a scan tool tomorrow. I want to get this going for my mom but not if it's going to be unreliable. And after she just bought me a car for my birthday! 
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2015 03:56
|
|
|
Parts Kit posted:Thanks. So in that case I'll need a grease gun and grease of some sort. What should I be looking at that would be appropriate for this? They're cheap at any parts store, probably even Harbor Freight.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2015 04:05
|
|
|
There is no such thing as a cheap grease gun, or even a medium price grease gun, that isn't infuriating to try and get bled and then keep working, but it'll get you through at least half a TRE fill before it stops pumping grease and makes you want to whoop it into the dumpster. Or install it, install the grease zerk, go to valvoline instant oil change (or probably most other chain quicklubes, but that's the one I worked at and I know their services and when they were busy) at lunch hour on a sunday with a six pack and ask em to grease the steering/suspension grease zerks. Probably don't even need the six pack if there's a VIOC previous customer barcode sticker anywhere on the vehicle.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2015 04:15
|
|
|
mr.belowaverage posted:No immobilizer, looks to be the 1nz-fe. It's basically a little round plastic disc with an LED inside and two terminals. You plug it into an injector connector to see if the injector's getting a pulse - safer for the ecu than a test light. The fact that it's no fuel AND no spark makes me think CKPS, look at the live data and see if you can see both crank and cam sensor signals. The 1NZ is by far the better of the two engines. They're usually extremely dependable; they have like two issues, both of which you can avoid if you just change the oil like a sane person.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2015 06:35
|
|
|
Hello thread! I am a dumb kid who drives a 1994 Jeep Wrangler. It's nearing 150000mi and some dudes at Jiffy Lube told me that it was about time for me to change my air filter, so I said OK, bought a mexican air filter off the internet for $6, got it mailed to me, watched a youtube video, and installed it. I just flipped open the plastic housing, took out the old one, looked inside and didnt see any rocks or anything, and put the new one in. The trouble is, to get it open, the youtube video I watched told me to disconnect this tube:  So it's this little plastic tube with a stiff rubber seal, I pulled on it expecting it to come out, then when it didn't I grabbed the rubber bit with my other hand and just wiggled it back and forth, using more and more force until I freed it. When I get it out, it's got jagged edges, which makes me think I loving broke it. So I googled around and couldn't even find the name of the part, thought "gently caress it" and used some super-thick CA glue that I have for model aircraft and just smeared it on the inside of the seal and jammed the tube back in. I haven't noticed any problems yet, but also I have no idea what to look for, and there are so many goddamn things broken or loose on my jeep that it's tough to hear changes in the sound of it when I drive. Am I letting unfiltered air into my engine, or did I merely cause trouble for myself when I have to put another air filter in?
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2015 08:06
|
|
|
Keldoclock posted:Hello thread! I am a dumb kid who drives a 1994 Jeep Wrangler. That looks like a PCV valve, excess crankcase pressure can blow seals out so they have that tube to route gases through the intake to be re-burned and sent out the exhaust. A little leakage of outside air through wouldn't hurt much. I believe those engines are a MAP sensor setup, so they can compensate for vacuum leaks, you'd just have a slightly high idle. If it does have a MAF sensor it could run rough, but you'd notice that. Either way, it won't do any harm; you didn't say but that looks like the 4.0, which is notorious for being an absolute tank of an engine. Still, look for a PCV valve if you're concerned, they're usually dirt cheap and an easy fix if you can get the broken bit out. Might be a good idea to replace the hose too, you can just get generic vacuum line from the parts store of the right inner diameter and cut to length.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2015 08:15
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 20, 2024 00:54 |
|
|
I've got a '93 Honda Accord I'm trying to get rid of because I never drive it. Due to being parked and unused most of the time, it's started having battery issues. I've had to jump it a few times in the past few months but usually if I use it once a week it'll start up without much trouble. Last week though, I tried starting it up and only got dash lights, no engine turning over or clicking or anything. I tried to jump it with another car, but after I hooked it up, it stopped doing anything at all - no dash lights, nothing. It won't take a jump anymore. I know I hooked up the cables in the right order because I've done it dozens of times, it's just suddenly not taking a charge anymore. I don't want to put more money into it (especially if I don't know if it's just the battery) but I'd also like to not take a low-ball offer because I've spent a lot on repairs. What could make it just die like that, and does it sound like it's just the battery or might it be a short? The only thing I can think of is that it's been rainy and something got wet. Removing the battery and getting it tested is also an option, but if there's an easier way I'm open to suggestions.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2015 13:25
|
|
