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Bonk posted:I've got a '93 Honda Accord I'm trying to get rid of because I never drive it. Due to being parked and unused most of the time, it's started having battery issues. I've had to jump it a few times in the past few months but usually if I use it once a week it'll start up without much trouble. Possibly related, or at least worth watching out for, is a rotten/broken plastic bumper on the brake switch adjustment. Found this fix for a friend with an electrical gremlin in an Accord from the same era: Honda Tech forum thread.
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Feb 11, 2015 14:21
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Keldoclock posted:Hello thread! I am a dumb kid who drives a 1994 Jeep Wrangler. Fucknag is pretty close, those engines use a CCV system not a PCV system but you can treat it the same. That is the fresh air side (the one at the back of the valve cover that goes to the intake is the metered vacuum side - note, metered by an orifice, not the MAF, don't worry about it as long as it is intact) and supplies atmospheric pressure air to the crankcase. As long as it doesn't pop out of the fittings it is perfectly fine, I usually stick a ziptie on mine if it has gotten old and loose and falls out of the fitting.
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Feb 11, 2015 14:44
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kastein posted:There is no such thing as a cheap grease gun, or even a medium price grease gun, that isn't infuriating to try and get bled and then keep working, but it'll get you through at least half a TRE fill before it stops pumping grease and makes you want to whoop it into the dumpster. Also will the zerk need any kind of cover once everything is finished?
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Feb 11, 2015 16:02
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Parts Kit posted:Yeah I remember having seen plenty of posts about cheapie grease guns being infuriating. I think I will give it a shot just for the experience, but I'm still not sure exactly what grease I should be using for this. I have a HF grease gun and it's never failed to work.
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Feb 11, 2015 16:04
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Parts Kit posted:Yeah I remember having seen plenty of posts about cheapie grease guns being infuriating. I think I will give it a shot just for the experience, but I'm still not sure exactly what grease I should be using for this. Typically they come with a little rubber boot. If not, I'd buy these: http://www.amazon.com/Grease-Fitting-Caps-Yellow-Polyethylene/dp/B0040CWX7C
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Feb 11, 2015 18:45
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My Jeep has over thirty grease fittings that need to be hit during every oil change. I do it myself, but I'm real tempted to pay someone else to grease all the drat things.
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Feb 11, 2015 19:26
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Parts Kit posted:I'm still not sure exactly what grease I should be using for this. You want something like this, I think:  Just general purpose high-temperature grease. It should cost like four bucks.
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Feb 11, 2015 19:42
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Leperflesh posted:You want something like this, I think: Yeah just regular black moly grease. Comes in a tube that you slide in the gun. Not super special. Make sure you get a gun with a flexible neck dealy! Mine came with a fixed "extension" that made it impossible to get to most of the zerks. Bonk posted:I've got a '93 Honda Accord I'm trying to get rid of because I never drive it. Due to being parked and unused most of the time, it's started having battery issues. I've had to jump it a few times in the past few months but usually if I use it once a week it'll start up without much trouble. Check the battery with a multimeter to verify that it's dead. Going that bad that fast surprises me, but it's not impossible. If the battery shows some voltage but you don't get dash lights, I'd suspect a dirty connection in the battery cables. Can't hurt to clean that stuff up. But of course, if the battery shows 5V or something ridiculous like that, then yeah it could be just the battery.
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Feb 11, 2015 19:58
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Okay, HF grease gun and grease has been acquired. Now...was grease supposed to start coming out of the boot when the joint was full? Because that kinda left me 
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Feb 11, 2015 22:01
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You're meant to stop when grease starts peeking out from the boot.
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Feb 11, 2015 22:08
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oh thank god. (and thank you)
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Feb 11, 2015 22:09
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It's worth wiping off the excess to stop it just turning into a spitball of dirt.
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Feb 11, 2015 22:23
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Traditionally, you should wipe it with your sleeve, and then absent-mindedly swipe your sweaty brow with your sleeve, leaving a perfect small but obvious streak of grease so everyone who sees you can tell instantly that you are a Real Man who has been doing Real Work on his car. This gives you a completely legitimate and unassailable right to drink beer while hanging around in the driveway at 10 AM.
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Feb 11, 2015 22:28
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I'll be moving from Saskatchewan to Ontario in April, and soon after I start my new job there I'll want to buy a car. I'll sort out budget and so forth and post in the AI-meets-BFC thread when I've got some numbers, but I wanted to check in here where I know there are a few Ontario goons kicking around. I read the relevant webpages, and I understand I'll have 6 days after buying the car to get it registered and plated. They (Ministry of Transportation) will charge me 13% sales tax on the value of the car (actual price or book value, whichever is higher) and will want to see some documents, like a safety certificate and (maybe?) an emissions test. Plus proof of insurance. I'm a little confused about the process here. Is it: 1. Find a car, test-drive it, buy it 2. Go to an insurance broker and get car insurance 3. Go to a MTO office and register the car, get plates. 4. Drive, be happy. ? or do I have the order of operations wrong? My confusion is: can you drive around for most of a week without plates? Do you get temporary plates of some kind when you buy a car? Do I ask the seller to leave the plates on the car until I can get the registration and insurance all arranged? Can you get an emissions test with temporary or previous-owner's plates? EDIT: I'll be moving to Kitchener/Waterloo, if that makes any difference.
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Feb 11, 2015 22:38
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Leperflesh posted:This gives you a completely legitimate and unassailable right to drink beer while hanging around in the driveway at 10 AM. Wait, you need an excuse to do this???
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Feb 11, 2015 22:48
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Uthor posted:Wait, you need an excuse to do this??? It's the "unassailable" part. Spouses can't say poo poo. You are Fixing Things, which is a task only possible with the correct superior german lubricants. You can of course drink beer at 10AM whenver you drat well please, but some people will bitch and moan about it if you're just doing it at the office or while making breakfast or whatever.
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Feb 11, 2015 23:00
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I noticed in the instructions for a 12v USB charger I just bought that it said not to leave it plugged in when starting the car or when nothing is plugged into it. Since I'm not an electrical guy, what's the risk? I know that my socket isn't powered when the car is off.
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Feb 11, 2015 23:23
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Leperflesh posted:It's the "unassailable" part. Spouses can't say poo poo. You are Fixing Things, which is a task only possible with the correct superior german lubricants. When I started working 3rd shifts, the office was across the street from a blue collar bar. We'd go in there once a week at 7am and have 32 oz. schooners. Around 9 am, the bar owners elderly mother would come in and cook us all breakfast to go with our beers. Ah, one's mid-20's when no one had anything better to do than drink at 7 am.
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Feb 12, 2015 00:18
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More Tercel adventures. I bought a vacuum gauge of decent quality and hooked it up. When the car is hot and idling in neutral, the gauge actually reads above the 'healthy' range. I don't understand how this can be since it's a 4EFE and not an F1 engine so theoretically shouldn't be drawing more vacuum than normal. When I put it in D and put a bunch of electrical loads on it so the idle starts chugging as it is wont to do, vacuum drops into the 'normal' range. I don't understand. How can my car have super manifold vacuum? I expected a leak or something. This is really frustrating because I genuinely believed the gauge would reveal something useful and instead all signs point to a perfectly healthy engine that just won't idle for poo poo. e: worth mentioning the needle very rapidly flickers like half a point consistently, but I'm putting this down to the idle just being shaky as gently caress and not an actual issue. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 07:08 on Feb 12, 2015 |
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Feb 12, 2015 07:06
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What kind of vacuum gauge did you get? "Healthy" and "Normal" are not vacuum readings. Also, are you thinking you have a vacuum leak and you're trying to find it with this? Because ... that's not how you do that.
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Feb 12, 2015 10:56
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I have a 2001 Dodge stratus V6 (2.7 liter I believe) and today I noticed that the heat is blowing cold air. Two days ago I had to refill the coolant as it was very low (check engine came on and coolant began to boil after 20 minutes), but I don't think there is a leak as I've been keeping an eye on coolant levels since and it's been steady. I haven't used the heat much since coolant was low but it worked fine before. I'm going to assume these two issues are related somehow. Does this sound like an air bubble? If so, do I just run it until it passes and for how long?
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Feb 12, 2015 13:37
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Smeed posted:I have a 2001 Dodge stratus V6 (2.7 liter I believe) and today I noticed that the heat is blowing cold air. Two days ago I had to refill the coolant as it was very low (check engine came on and coolant began to boil after 20 minutes), but I don't think there is a leak as I've been keeping an eye on coolant levels since and it's been steady. I haven't used the heat much since coolant was low but it worked fine before. I'm going to assume these two issues are related somehow. Does this sound like an air bubble? If so, do I just run it until it passes and for how long? It's worrying that coolant was that low, but isn't leaking anywhere. It's going somewhere, so hopefully not past the headgasket into the combustion chamber. Blowing much steam out the tailpipe? Regardless, do you have enough coolant in there now? If it's all gone somewhere, the heater won't work, for sure. If you've still got enough, then yeah it could be just an air bubble. I'm not sure where the highest point in the cooling system is on those, but generally if you have the nose up in the air so the radiator is at the top, and run it (from cold) with the radiator cap off and the heat on, the bubble will work its way out. But often, specific cars will have their own special procedure because of some design peculiarity.
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Feb 12, 2015 13:42
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Raluek posted:It's worrying that coolant was that low, but isn't leaking anywhere. It's going somewhere, so hopefully not past the headgasket into the combustion chamber. Blowing much steam out the tailpipe? Regardless, do you have enough coolant in there now? If it's all gone somewhere, the heater won't work, for sure. It worries me as well so I'm keeping an eye on it. As much as I hate admit it though, it's possible it was low from stupidity and neglect on my part as I have never checked it myself. The exhaust doesn't smell sweet and the amount of steam doesn't strike me as odd, but it's been 20 degrees here for the past month so most times there is something visible coming from the tailpipe. It seems to run fine too. Yes, the coolant is just below the full mark when cold. As a matter of fact I remember using the heat yesterday and it seemed to work fine. If this doesn't clear up on my ride home I'll find a hill and five those steps a shot. a dingus fucked around with this message at 15:27 on Feb 12, 2015 |
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Feb 12, 2015 15:18
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Krakkles posted:What kind of vacuum gauge did you get? "Healthy" and "Normal" are not vacuum readings. Yes it is, that's (partly) what a vacuum gauge is for. Normal being around 17-22 inches of mercury, my car is around 25. I don't know how to answer your question beyond it being a vacuum gauge explicitly designed for this purpose. I was actually hoping to discover incorrect ignition timing or something like that.
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Feb 12, 2015 18:54
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So, we may be picking this up as a band van. http://reno.craigslist.org/cto/4876582806.html As this isn't a Chrysler that I have a lot of experience with, what things ought we to look for beside making sure the tranny isn't toasted?
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Feb 12, 2015 21:41
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That would make a pimp rear end band van! (I don't have an answer to your question, though.)
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Feb 12, 2015 21:53
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Slavvy posted:Yes it is, that's (partly) what a vacuum gauge is for. Normal being around 17-22 inches of mercury, my car is around 25. I don't know how to answer your question beyond it being a vacuum gauge explicitly designed for this purpose. I was actually hoping to discover incorrect ignition timing or something like that. I think he was getting at the fact that you used "normal" as a measure. None of that matters diagnostically. What matters are real number and how it's moving in which conditions. It's not complicated, but it's not something like "between x and y is fine." Here's the best thing I could come up with. Feel free to ignore the article, I sure did. What matters is on the bottom. Click the scenario buttons until you find what yours is doing.
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Feb 12, 2015 22:06
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Mr. Wiggles posted:So, we may be picking this up as a band van. The 318 is pretty good motor... really just a toasted tranny. I am sure Kastien will chime in about his hatred of Dodge vans.
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Feb 12, 2015 22:10
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Motronic posted:I think he was getting at the fact that you used "normal" as a measure. None of that matters diagnostically. What matters are real number and how it's moving in which conditions. Which article...? Also, every diagnostic vaccum gauge I've seen has a green zone around the numbers I stated that's 'normal'. Vacuum readings don't vary much from engine size/configuration as long as there's no forced induction involved; an engine in good condition and a good state of tune will always pull around 18-22 inches. My engine pulls more than that which makes no sense. The needle doesn't fluctuate or flutter or anything, it just sits steady with a shaking that matches the idle shake.
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Feb 12, 2015 22:15
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Slavvy posted:Which article...? Sorry, forgot to link it: http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm As to the rest.....yes, most vacuum gauges have that. It doesn't mean it's all that matters or even how to most effectively use a vacuum gauge. To diagnose what you are now describing it would be best to do things like snapping the throttle to see what the readings look like, running at higher RPMs, etc. Vacuum rises with RPM when the throttle plate is closed like under deceleration. Under some conditions/configurations I could see this happening with a high idle or wonky valve timing/incorrect preload or advanced ignition timing. Just what is this thing idling at without load? Motronic fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Feb 12, 2015 |
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Feb 12, 2015 22:29
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Ehhh, it has pretty low mileage and doesn't claim it's slipping. If it slips funny or shifts hard, be worried, otherwise I'd consider that van. It's got low enough mileage that you can probably flush the transmission with the right fluid and then keep on top of it and not beat on it and it'll last just fine. High mileage, already hosed trans, or hasn't been maintained properly? Run away. Also the wiring diagrams show info for manual ones, so you could probably convert it to manual with all factory parts if you really wanted to.
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Feb 12, 2015 22:49
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A manual would really be preferable, especially since we're already in the mountains and it's nicer to not roast your brakes over Donner. We'll see how this one goes, though. I'm especially intrigued by the "microwave" and "commode" and "bed" options for band touring. I'll update if we buy it.
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Feb 12, 2015 23:01
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Motronic posted:Sorry, forgot to link it: I've looked at that site, it does none of those things. In every respect it behaves like a normal engine except for the vacuum being quite high at idle. It idles around 900 without load when it's fully warmed up; putting it in D and switching on all the lights and wipers makes it drop to around 500. It never stalls or hesitates, it just has a really low chugging idle. I'm due for a cambelt and it has a leaking crank seal so the belt could be stretched, maybe? It's the only explanation I can think of because it's the only thing I haven't hosed around with.
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Feb 12, 2015 23:03
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Mr. Wiggles posted:A manual would really be preferable, especially since we're already in the mountains and it's nicer to not roast your brakes over Donner. We'll see how this one goes, though. I'm especially intrigued by the "microwave" and "commode" and "bed" options for band touring. I'll update if we buy it. Let me know if you'd rather have a Ford Explorer that needs an intake gasket done (leaks a bit when pushing uphill below 20F) which can now actually accelerate uphill for about half that. I don't think I'd want to take the 4.0 up Donner though. Taking it to Davis is enough of a workout. Seats are loving awesome, and it almost has a SID since its an Eddie.
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Feb 12, 2015 23:07
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West SAAB Story posted:Let me know if you'd rather have a Ford Explorer that needs an intake gasket done (leaks a bit when pushing uphill below 20F) which can now actually accelerate uphill for about half that. I don't think I'd want to take the 4.0 up Donner though. Taking it to Davis is enough of a workout. Seats are loving awesome, and it almost has a SID since its an Eddie. Does it have an awesome mural on the side though? Nope, didn't think so. 
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Feb 12, 2015 23:16
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I have a handful of rattlecan paints from dubious sources and could buy a six pack.. No more, though. BUZZED STYLING IS DRUNK PAINTING
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Feb 13, 2015 00:57
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Slavvy posted:It's basically a little round plastic disc with an LED inside and two terminals. You plug it into an injector connector to see if the injector's getting a pulse - safer for the ecu than a test light. quote:The fact that it's no fuel AND no spark makes me think CKPS, look at the live data and see if you can see both crank and cam sensor signals. When this car came in, we scanned and it had an EVAP code. I tried to get crank sensor readings, or any DTCs today, and it can't connect through the DLC. No DLC + no injector pulse/nostart = bad ecu? Why would this happen so suddenly? ExecuDork posted:I'm a little confused about the process here. Is it: quote:My confusion is: can you drive around for most of a week without plates? Do you get temporary plates of some kind when you buy a car? Do I ask the seller to leave the plates on the car until I can get the registration and insurance all arranged? Can you get an emissions test with temporary or previous-owner's plates? quote:EDIT: I'll be moving to Kitchener/Waterloo, if that makes any difference. This is where I live, so let me know if you need any assistance. As a bonus, I work at a dealership.
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Feb 13, 2015 01:33
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Probably not a bad ECU, that's fairly rare, but a blown fuse or a bad relay or a corroded/broken wire in the harness? Sure, happens sometimes. edit: alright, no DLC makes it a bit more likely that it's a junk ECU, but quite often the same relay powers the ECU and the injectors. I know a bad wire to the O2 sensor heaters on a jeep shorting to ground can pop the fuse that runs basically the entire EFI system including the ECU, because it's happened to me and a lot of people I know and that's the first fuse and wire I tell people to check. edit 2: I checked the wiring diagrams I have available and you should check the 15 amp fuses marked "AM2" and "EFI" in the engine compartment fuse box. Do you have 12 volts at one side of the injector plug? You should. They are all powered off those fuses and the ECU grounds the other side when it wants them to fire - so if there's no ground from the ECU, OR no 12 volts from the fuse, nothing happens. kastein fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Feb 13, 2015 |
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Feb 13, 2015 01:40
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Thanks. I'll double check voltage at the injector plugs. I did check the EFI fuse and it was ok. I know there were a couple weird fuse names, and I checked most, but AM2 doesn't ring a bell. Looks like multimeter time.
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Feb 13, 2015 03:34
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AM2 is actually the one that runs the injectors, via one circuit of the ignition switch, a junction block located somewhere or other, and a few wires. The other one runs other very important stuff that's needed for the engine to fire, too. Here's the fuel system wiring diagram, in case you need it: http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=106716 Ignition system: http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=106715 That's all the really important stuff to run the engine, which sounds like the only issue with it.
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Feb 13, 2015 03:48
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