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Post 9-11 User posted:drat. Thanks for the info, though. No need to rack my brain for a solution and your explanation is plausible. Try using either Army Painter (Skeleton Bone) or Montana Gold (Elm). I thing both of those are close matches.
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Feb 11, 2015 00:19
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Does anyone have a link to a good guide for painting fur? I've got a unit of Raptors I want to paint for my legion army and they're the first unit I've painted with fur since like 2002
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Feb 11, 2015 01:13
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Sulecrist posted:Edit: what's everyone's painting music? When I'm not listening to audiobooks or podcasts, it's almost always a The Roots album or the JC Superstar soundtrack. TV shows on Netflix for awhile, though now that we're not doing that, I've mostly been sneaking in my basecoating time during my Skype tabletop gaming sessions. 
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Feb 11, 2015 02:06
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What are Skype tabletop sessions?
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Feb 11, 2015 02:10
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Not positive it's what Iris means, but I play tabletop games over Skype with my friends a fair bit. We do lots of very silly oneshots, and I tend to do model assembly while we play
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Feb 11, 2015 03:41
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I've been trying to get my RPG group to do Skype on days when the snow is really bad
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Feb 11, 2015 03:48
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Ryoshi posted:What do people use for masking when airbrushing a model? I've actually had really good luck using silly putty. It's easy to form into the shapes you need it, although it will droop a bit if you leave it too long.
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Feb 11, 2015 04:25
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Future is great and oil washes are awesome, thanks thread!  Now does anyone have a good guide on painting projected light? I'm using a cheapo A-wing model to practice these new techniques and thought trying to paint the engine glow would add a nice effect.
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Feb 11, 2015 05:39
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So I've got this 40k Imperial Knight that I'm wanting to put some transfers for mechanicum stuff onto, and while I follow the procedure for using microset/sol, I have been told that I will have better results when applying over a glossy surface. Most of my models end up getting hit with dullcote when completed, so I've never bothered to get any gloss varnish. So my question is, are the results from applying transfers over gloss that much better that I should bother with it? Or should I just go about my business as usual of dullcote>transfers>dullcote?
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Feb 11, 2015 19:25
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Decals & transfers always go best on a glossy surface, after which you can use matte varnish as much as you want. I would put the gloss on where you plan to put decals, use the microsol/set, put another layer of gloss to help protect the decal, then do your weathering if you're doing that, then gloss, then finish with a matte coat.
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Feb 11, 2015 19:38
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Sulecrist posted:Edit: what's everyone's painting music? When I'm not listening to audiobooks or podcasts, it's almost always a The Roots album or the JC Superstar soundtrack. As of late it tends to vary between stuff I've already seen a million times before (like MST3K episodes, classic UK sitcoms from the 1970s and 1980s, and movies like "Alien" and "Escape from New York"), and various YouTube videos (mostly Red Letter Media stuff like the "Previously Recorded" archived livestreams, and Doctor Faust's Painting Clinic videos).
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Feb 11, 2015 19:50
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Sydney Bottocks posted:As of late it tends to vary between stuff I've already seen a million times before (like MST3K episodes, classic UK sitcoms from the 1970s and 1980s, and movies like "Alien" and "Escape from New York"), and various YouTube videos (mostly Red Letter Media stuff like the "Previously Recorded" archived livestreams, and Doctor Faust's Painting Clinic videos). Sounds pretty close to my own playlists. MST3k has a new hulu-type website and some of the Rifftrax collection are on Hulu as well. I really enjoy working with some background noise on, and I think it comes from growing up in a loud, raucous household .
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Feb 11, 2015 21:35
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I like to listen to Twitch gaming steams while painting, though that can get distracting when something hilarious happens.
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Feb 12, 2015 01:37
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BlackIronHeart posted:I like to listen to Twitch gaming steams while painting, though that can get distracting when something hilarious happens. See: Vinesauce.
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Feb 12, 2015 02:37
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I often work in silence but then I have nearly 3 year old twins so silence is amazing when I can get it. If I have something playing it's usually a podcast or something I've seen before on Netflix. Currently nearly done with TNG for example.
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Feb 12, 2015 05:04
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dexefiend posted:What are Skype tabletop sessions? Magres posted:Not positive it's what Iris means, but I play tabletop games over Skype with my friends a fair bit. We do lots of very silly oneshots, and I tend to do model assembly while we play Yup, though technically it's been Roll20 or Google Hangouts. 
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Feb 12, 2015 07:23
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What's my best bet for sealing Agrellan Earth?
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Feb 12, 2015 14:56
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Monster w21 Faces posted:What's my best bet for sealing Agrellan Earth? I can't imagine anything particularly fancy is needed, so probably just regular ol' varnish. If it comes off for some reason, watered-down PVA ought to do the trick.
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Feb 12, 2015 17:38
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I've had fixant for charcoal drawings suggested too.
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Feb 12, 2015 18:01
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I finally got around to mixing up my own washes using the Les's wash recipes and I'm pretty happy with the result. The biggest thing I was afraid of going in was that the wash would leave a sheen but the sepia wash I tried looks fine and will probably replace the pot of Devlan Mud I've been hording.
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Feb 12, 2015 21:15
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I found that Sepia + Black or just strait up Burnt Umber is pretty close to delvin mud. Welcome to making your on washes!
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Feb 12, 2015 22:07
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Thanks! I have a bunch of different colored inks from a project back in university and I'm looking forward to experimenting a little.
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Feb 12, 2015 22:20
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Had a painting hiatus for a bit after finally finishing the big red dragon mini, then rounded on a greatsword-toting barbarian gal from Bones--Deenah. I can now in retrospect say that I have a new appreciation for the distinction of a detailed metal miniature versus Bones plastic--at least when it comes down to gleaning detail off of a comparatively 'skinny' model. In a nutshell, I got a bit frustrated with this one. Here's the unpainted Bones figure and what I presume to be a painted metal fig--since the model details appear a lot sharper.   I'm mostly going off of the scabbard detailing, distinct boot laces, more fully formed rocks for the base and slightly 'thicker' proportions when I'm figuring the one on the right is originally a metal / pewter fig. I think it having separate distinct fingers instead of a blobby flipper-hand and having much sharper edges are the main cues. In any event, after going about the last several figs with my old hat of tanned flesh + some highlighting + flesh wash, I wanted to try for a fairer complexion using highlight and shadow tones instead and I also wanted to attempt to do black hair with some highlighting as well. I filed and cut mold lines (though ended up missing a particular one that stands out pretty readily in the end) primed black and went about base-coating such as it was:    It hadn't really been my intention to follow color from the painted example, but I dug the red anyway and it fit the motif in general. I was fairly happy with how the mouth and teeth turned out--and it's gotten a lot more natural feeling applying layers progressively, etc; I think the initial bones plastic coupled with the primer ultimately softened / obscured some of the subtler details before I got started painting.   Using 'fair' skin was challenging and the difference seems so subtle to me that I have a hard time noticing the shifting between areas; that being said, I started with fair skin shadow for the base coat, fair skin for first highlighting and then fair skin highlight for final highlighting. Is it better to go with shadow and work your way up or start at the middle and then shadow / highlight from there? The main example with the skin is her left arm, since there was a pretty 'easy' transition between the underside / body-facing portion of her arm -> middle -> highlighting about the bicep and muscle... which is not especially photogenic under white light. D'oh. For the hair, after all the other base coating was done I touched up black on spots where the primer had been nicked by other painting, then tried using a dark / deep blue followed by a very slight bit of wolf grey; I did a small amount of black wash after that then another light pass of deep blue. It likely doesn't look like much, but this is the first time I've tried anything of the sort with a figure's hair that wasn't 'base coat and wash' Went about highlighting and shadowing in what spots I felt confident enough in what is my current approach, which essentially amounts to a dab of linen white + base color for highlighting and some 'layering' of a strong dark wash in shadowed areas of equipment and the like. I think the axe handle turned out pretty solid as a result. Some red wash about cloth coupled with some darker washes for shadowing in places and I elected not to do any washing on any skin sections this time around. For the stone, I based stone grey, applied a soft brown / mud wash, revisited with some stone grey, applied a darker wash, stone grey and so it went. Finally, did some silver edge highlighting on armor and the sword, axe, etc. and came back with another round of satin varnish to try to dial down and seal. Transferred to a 1" acrylic base and added some light basing material and snapped some shots before the glue was done turning transparent--but this is basically the end result in and out of white light:     I'm mostly happy with how it turned out, but I desperately want to up my game when it comes to detailing metal specifically. The greatsword highlighting and such in the Reaper example utterly boggles me and floors me; I'm also way jealous whenever I look at the edging and gradient in metal for most of the figs posted in this thread. I'm still pretty gun-shy on painting skin and highlighting / shadowing / washing in general--but the main thing I want to improve on next is getting away from all armor and weapons on my figures boiling down to 'basecoat dark metal, highlight light metal, wash, possibly touch up light metal.'
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Feb 13, 2015 18:42
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GaistHeidegger posted:Had a painting hiatus for a bit after finally finishing the big red dragon mini, then rounded on a greatsword-toting barbarian gal from Bones--Deenah. I can now in retrospect say that I have a new appreciation for the distinction of a detailed metal miniature versus Bones plastic--at least when it comes down to gleaning detail off of a comparatively 'skinny' model. In a nutshell, I got a bit frustrated with this one. http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/1649-metallics I mentioned this like a page ago. If you want to see some crazy well highlighted metallics look at his work: http://www.coolminiornot.com/277892?browseid=11223446 http://www.coolminiornot.com/189893?browseid=11247644 http://www.coolminiornot.com/172884?browseid=11247644 http://www.coolminiornot.com/156826?browseid=11247644
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Feb 13, 2015 20:33
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Well I went ahead and ordered 2 kits of the metalizing powder, not sure when it will be here, but I'll try to steal/borrow a camera to show the results. http://www.c1-models.com/detail/c1-metalizer-metalizing-buffing-powder Also went ahead and bought Vallejo's metalizing mixture for paints. I heard white was difficult but I'll do some test runs with it, otherwise high gloss black on the Necrons and then use the powder to make them chrome. Probably should pick up some weathering powder, specifically rust anyone got a good recommendation? Hollismason fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Feb 13, 2015 |
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Feb 13, 2015 20:39
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El Estrago Bonito posted:http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/1649-metallics Sorry I missed these before, but thank you--these look frigging gorgeous. I need to nab a fistful of knights and go to town. One of my biggest hurdles with metallics right now is getting smooth applications down; thinning to layer non-metallic colors is easy enough now but I frequently seem to end up with streaking on metals.
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Feb 13, 2015 23:06
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You can use a buff cloth to shine metals actually and that may get out the streaks. Let me look up the recommended size and I'll post the product I use. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cI0636tX8TU Depending on the colour there are some metallics that work with in Airbrushes, but their mostly associated with the model vehicle crowd, not miniatures that's actually when I started researching this whole how to do actual chrome thing I started looking at the different Airplane model manufacturers etc. and that was how I came across the metalizing buff powder. The only thing I learned was that if you do it, make sure to thin the poo poo out of it and use a high gloss. Also it can gently caress up your airbrush if you don't clean it. Most of the airbrush metal stuff is enamel, which requires Turpentine to clean your brushes with. I picked up some from just a Hobby shop and while it does take like forever to dry it comes out pretty well. Metals are a difficult thing for me as well, but that's my current " Get better at doing this" project. Hollismason fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Feb 14, 2015 |
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Feb 14, 2015 00:19
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 These are a bit shiny because I ran out of flat varnish. My camera phone blows, but you may be able to discern how all the bone elements are: (wow, I actually don't remember, Averland Sunset or Taucept Aucher) washed with Devlann Mud, then highlighted with $1 hobby store bone (this one is called "Buttermilk" from Americana). Highlights are just fine lining with, "Slate Grey" from the same company. 1) This took weeks to do: planning is everything! I'm out of practice so rather than being a smart person that sprayed the models white or bone and brushed on the black, I did all of the bone by hand. This takes several coats of paint and countless touchups to do. The much smarter method is to spray or even brush the bone into place and ink/wash the dark areas, it's over so much more quickly and the results are silky smooth. 2) The GW basing kit is great! A gift from my brother, it has sand, pebbles, rocks, and static grass. I have been told that static grass must be charged somehow to get it to stand up, turns that painting on white glue then sprinkling on the grass is all it takes. It's the first painting I've done in at least a year,  Now to paint the guns on the weapon platform (all individual, which is a pain) and move on to some terrain.I cannot stress it enough: keep it simple when painting troops. They are numerous, they suck, and the fun for me is in lavishing lots of tiny details onto characters.
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Feb 14, 2015 02:55
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Post 9-11 User posted:I have been told that static grass must be charged somehow to get it to stand up, turns that painting on white glue then sprinkling on the grass is all it takes. All you have to do is rub the grass through whatever plastic baggy it's being held in and that'll do the trick. It's kind of like a balloon, where it needs some static electricity to get it going. Despite the photo quality, those look pretty good! I've always enjoyed stark contrasting colors like that, as it makes them really pop out on the table. The basing is neutral enough to where it compliments them and helps with the contrasting scheme, too.
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Feb 14, 2015 03:28
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In an effort to paint more, I've decided on a standard of "table ready, move on" Looking in the picture, I missed a few spots which I'll touch up, and I can't paint teeth and nails for poo poo, but otherwise would you be put off if I demo'd a game with these guys? 
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Feb 14, 2015 03:52
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Do a nice thick wash over them, I think it will add a very nice cartoony effect, especially with the skin colour you went with.
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Feb 14, 2015 03:56
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signalnoise posted:In an effort to paint more, I've decided on a standard of "table ready, move on" First, great job getting these guys to this point. This is exactly what you should be doing right now. Once you get them based they will be fine for a demo. I think if you're willing to do just one more thing before you move on, it should be to quickly darken some areas. It looks like you already used a full wash, and I understand if you don't feel up to doing lots of small bright details at this stage, but doing the opposite might help bring out the features a little more. Assuming you have done a full, heavy wash already, consider targeted dark washes on areas like necks, eye sockets, and armpits. Otherwise, great job. I know it's hard to focus on fundamentals and volume, but I agree that's the best thing for you right now, especially since you want to start running demos. You can always come back and do teeth and eyes and nails later--no need to worry about doing them now.
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Feb 14, 2015 14:22
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Ehh?  I really wish I could remember whatever green I put on the dude in the second pic signalnoise fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Feb 14, 2015 |
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Feb 14, 2015 16:47
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signalnoise posted:Ehh? Much better, no? Now matte that poo poo before God strangles a hobo.
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Feb 14, 2015 16:48
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Doctor Zero posted:Much better, no? Now matte that poo poo before God strangles a hobo. Done, and they look great now! I'll post one last pic once I get them all based
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Feb 14, 2015 18:25
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I finally finished my Khador Man-of-War squad:  Honestly the leader was painted well before the rest but was so time-consuming and lacklustre that I speed-painted the remainder and they came out alright. I hate playing with unpainted figures so getting them to the table looking passable was more important than going for something out of this world. Should I add the boiiler-glow to the gratings of the troops? I've got Black Ivan and a Juggernaut almost completed too; one in white-washed winter camo and one in camo brown. German colors and Polish motifs, on Russian-themed spacemans.
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Feb 15, 2015 17:40
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Hollismason posted:You can use a buff cloth to shine metals actually and that may get out the streaks. Let me look up the recommended size and I'll post the product I use. When I want streak free chromey metals I just reach for this stuff as a base coat   Anything better than that is not worth my time. signalnoise fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Feb 15, 2015 |
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Feb 15, 2015 17:54
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Southern Heel posted:I finally finished my Khador Man-of-War squad: These are legit
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Feb 15, 2015 17:56
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Southern Heel posted:I finally finished my Khador Man-of-War squad: I really like the black armor. Especially on the leader. The boiler glow looks good, but I'm not sure where it would be coming from. Like, I think that guy's body is supposed to be in there, and if it's glowing that brightly he might have a serious problem.
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Feb 15, 2015 18:45
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Good point, I guess it works better if they're enclosed animated suits (hence the eye-slit glow on the rest). I decided to throw caution to the wind and finish up the jacks and caster. Like the rest, German colors with Polish markings:  Sorscha: I painted the OSL while drunk in a dark room so it's not great, but probably by best to date. Destroyer: I should have used straight perpendicular lines on the ice-axe to give it that frosted effect instead of lighting, but it's magic so whatever. I used the dab-method with foam to get the speckled effect. Normally one would paint white and then speckle the basecoat, to give the impression of whitewash being wiped and chipped off, but I undercoated with black instead. I think this is alright, I like the streaks. Black Ivan: I went for a Skeleton-hussar freehand on the shoulderpad but most of it is hidden by his FAT rear end. It's a little monotone in this brown so I did some battle damage and went for a glowing power-fist style effect on the claw.
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Feb 15, 2015 22:56
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