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Ok so my friend* is an idiot. He put his lovely car on craigslist for $500. A guy answered the ad, came by and gave him a $150 deposit, said he would come back the next day with the rest of the money, and my friend (the idiot) gave him the title. The guy apparently comes back later, hot wires the car and just takes it. Is there anything he can actually do? Can he report it stolen if the guy has the signed title? *actual friend and not thinly veiled "this is me" post
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Feb 20, 2015 17:59
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Be thankful he doesnt have a stab wound to go with his lost 350 bux I guess? (call the police, duh)
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Feb 20, 2015 18:10
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Not really, sadly. That sucks, but at least it was a 350 dollar lesson. There are many more expensive ways to learn that, like newer vehicles or real estate. The proper way to do this (it does depend on state somewhat, and this isn't probably literally the proper way, but it's what I'd do) is to sign the title over, but retain it, give the buyer a photocopy of it, sign a bill of sale with them stating that there is a $150 deposit in place and they have x days to pay the remainder, title and vehicle to be handed over upon receipt of payment in full, and state that you will file for a replacement title (keeping this as proof of your right to do so) and sell it to someone else if they don't come through. Call the police and report it, but don't expect anything.
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Feb 20, 2015 18:27
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Yeah that was pretty stupid. He's lucky he wasn't stabbed.
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Feb 20, 2015 19:04
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American ownership laws are strange and retarded, I must say.
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Feb 20, 2015 21:05
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I'm not saying you're wrong, i'm just saying you should cut your losses much earlier. It's not doing much for your blood pressure to help people who won't take good advice :P
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Feb 20, 2015 21:15
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say I owned a truck with all-terrain tires. Assuming godawful upstate NY winters, would it be worth the money to get a set of snow tires for it as well?
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Feb 20, 2015 22:36
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Does anyone know of a mid-range gauge that shows two temperatures? I'd like to add at least a transmission temperature gauge to my WJ, and possibly engine oil as well, but I've really only got room for one 2-1/16" gauge. Digital is fine, but all I can find is really sketchy poo poo or really expensive poo poo. I'm not even married to the idea of it being a 2-1/16" round gauge, I'd be fine with just a couple of rectangular LED displays. But if I can't find something less sketchy for a not-stupid price point, I'll probably just do the transmission temp and be done with it. triple clutcher posted:say I owned a truck with all-terrain tires. Assuming godawful upstate NY winters, would it be worth the money to get a set of snow tires for it as well? Depends on the tire. I have no experience with awful winters anywhere, but the rebranded Kumho KL61s I have on my WJ have the "winter service symbol" on them. Discount sells them as the "Pathfinder". The one day trip I took up north while it snowed this winter, it handled the snow and slush perfectly. There was nothing like the "impending death" feeling I got the previous two times I've ever driven on snow on regular all-seasons or summer tires.
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Feb 20, 2015 22:44
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As a lifelong NE Ohio resident I can attest that the worst snow tire will do better in the snow than the best all-season. Yes, you can get by with all-seasons in heavy snow, but with snow tires you can pretty much drive like normal as long as you have sufficient ground clearance. Really it depends on how often you have heavy snowfall to the point that it accumulates on the road and cannot be reasonably cleared. If its fairly common having a set of dedicated snow tires should be required, but if it only happens a handful of times per season I wouldn't worry about it.
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Feb 20, 2015 22:57
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IOwnCalculus posted:Does anyone know of a mid-range gauge that shows two temperatures? I'd like to add at least a transmission temperature gauge to my WJ, and possibly engine oil as well, but I've really only got room for one 2-1/16" gauge. Digital is fine, but all I can find is really sketchy poo poo or really expensive poo poo. Alternatively, there are people like PLX who do multi-gauge designs that are about midway between those two prices, and seem to be able to do other stuff liek trigger warning lights etc. InitialDave fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Feb 20, 2015 |
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Feb 20, 2015 23:06
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People out here (Utah) swear by Goodyear Duratracs as a great mix of on road, rain & snow, and medium trail performance.
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Feb 20, 2015 23:29
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Feb 21, 2015 00:54
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Am I doing any damage to my engine by over-filling the oil? I'm talking maybe 4.5-4.75 quarts instead of 4.2.
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Feb 21, 2015 02:31
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You are fine. Most engines are fine with half to 1 liter extra, at least in my experience. Idle it, check the oil with it running, if there is foamy oil on the dipstick drain a little out.
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Feb 21, 2015 02:34
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I'll do that. I ran the engine a little bit after changing the oil, but I didn't check it with the engine running.
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Feb 21, 2015 03:17
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I remember the factory owner's manual for my e23 said that if you shouldn't over-fill the engine oil, but if you do, any excess oil will be consumed 
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Feb 21, 2015 03:59
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Am I doing any damage to my engine by over-filling the oil? I'm talking maybe 4.5-4.75 quarts instead of 4.2. Depends on the engine, and by how much. Half a quart isn't that bad.
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Feb 21, 2015 04:23
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It's a Subaru EJ22. Phase 2, the interference engine, although I don't think that makes any difference.
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Feb 21, 2015 06:30
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My fiancées stupid '05 Vauxhall Corsa C (Holden Barina, Antipodeans) has a stupid handbrake problem, or a stupid Stump problem. Considering GM's track record, and mine, probably a mix of both. The handbrake was crap*, so I fitted new rear shoes. Handbrake still crap. The auto adjuster perhaps wasn't working, so I tried adjusting it manually. I can only get the handbrake to work OK when it's adjusted so far out the handbrake sticks on. I reckon either: I'm doing a crap job of adjusting something, or something else needs replaced or lubed, maybe... -The spring that the handbrake cable sits in doesn't seem very strong, it could be that. -Replace / Lube adjuster -The cable runners on the axle were hosed so I removed them, maybe I should get new ones. I should prob get them anyway so the cable doesn't get hosed from rubbing on the axle.  Thoughts? *I think it's fine, but it needs a two hand yank to hold at the traffic light at the top of our street - it's pretty steep though, like San Francisco steep.
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Feb 21, 2015 14:12
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kastein posted:Idle it, check the oil with it running, if there is foamy oil on the dipstick drain a little out. Is it normal to have a couple of bubbles anytime you check it with the engine running? My level is right on the money (if not 1/4 quart low) and it's got a couple of bubbles when I check it at idle.
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Feb 21, 2015 17:51
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A couple is fine (the oil is splattering all over, it's gonna happen) but any persistent aeration is a bad sign. Also, any serious moisture or emulsion, especially if you have been having unexplained coolant loss. You won't get an accurate level reading with it running unless the instructions say to do that, but it'll tell you if the level is so high it's getting aerated by the crank.
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Feb 21, 2015 18:05
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stump posted:My fiancées stupid '05 Vauxhall Corsa C (Holden Barina, Antipodeans) has a stupid handbrake problem, or a stupid Stump problem. Considering GM's track record, and mine, probably a mix of both. Are you adjusting the shoes to bring them out to the drum, and adjusting the slack on the cable? I've never seen the Corsa's handbrake specifically, but that photo looks about what I'd expect.
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Feb 21, 2015 21:00
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Just got a transmission rebuild on my evo 9. The car is still on jacks, not running. I just got the trans and shift linkage installed and I'm testing the gears. 1 through 6 engage perfectly. I can't engage the reverse gear. Does the car need to be running in order to engage reverse? Or is it more likely that the rebuild was done incorrectly?
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Feb 21, 2015 21:24
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Reverse has straight-cut gears to let the idler slide in and out, it's possible that the teeth are lined up just right that it's blocked and won't engage. Try having someone turn the wheels while you push into gear and see if it'll slip into place; if not, they might have screwed something up. e: vv ehehehehehehehe vv Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Feb 21, 2015 |
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Feb 21, 2015 21:28
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Reverse is a dog gear so it could be that the teeth just aren't lined up; normally you would put it in neutral (with the engine running) and pump the clutch to try spin the shafts a little bit and let it engage. Not being able to get into gears with the car switched off doesn't really tell you anything. e: fucknaaaaaaaag!!
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Feb 21, 2015 21:29
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I spun the crank to spin the trans shafts on and out of drive gear with no luck, I'm really reluctant to get everything back together and on the ground but I guess I have no choice. gently caress.
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Feb 21, 2015 21:39
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Is the driveshaft connected? If the drivewheels are in the air you could have someone keep some light pressure on the shifter while you spin the drivewheels until it lines up and shifts.
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Feb 21, 2015 21:55
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Pinhole leak at this location... will a shop patch it or tell me it is too close to the sidewall? About 1.75" in.
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Feb 22, 2015 04:10
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Shifty Pony posted:Pinhole leak at this location... will a shop patch it or tell me it is too close to the sidewall? About 1.75" in. Should be able to be patched, doesn't hit the shoulder.
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Feb 22, 2015 04:20
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Agreed, that's an easy fix.stump posted:My fiancées stupid '05 Vauxhall Corsa C (Holden Barina, Antipodeans) has a stupid handbrake problem, or a stupid Stump problem. Considering GM's track record, and mine, probably a mix of both. I'd guess the cable may be a bit stretched, it sounds like you've checked everything else. I can park my car on a steep hill (even San Francisco steep) and the handbrake holds it just fine, it just needs to go up an extra couple of clicks compared to flat ground (basically needs a yank  instead of a quick tug)
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Feb 22, 2015 07:41
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98 Civic EX 5MT. The shifter won't go into first gear! Every other gear is available and engages smoothly. The clutch pedal feels normal (changed the fluid in August or so). When you move the shifter forward into first, it feels like something is blocking it and pushing the shifter to the right at an angle as you push forward. It moves forward about half way before you feel it being deflected. I don't have time to get underneath it until tomorrow, but anyone have any ideas? edit: I made time this morning, the plastic ring that sits on top of the shifter pivot? was broken and in 5 pieces. I removed the broken chunks and it works good as new! two_beer_bishes fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Feb 22, 2015 |
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Feb 22, 2015 13:24
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I'm having real trouble changing down into 3rd and 4th in my Toyota Aygo (The same car as a Citroen C1 or Peugeot 107. 1 litre petrol, manual gearbox). I can get them when stationary or parked, and can change up fine - they just wont go in changing down. From 5th I can move the gearstick into 2nd and can then usually get 3rd or 4th (all in one clutch press), but this is a pain and I lose all my precious speed while doing this. With a 3cyl 68hp engine changing down quickly is essential if you want to keep moving!. It started as just 3rd that was tricky to get into, but over the last few thousand miles 4th has started doing it too. The clutch seems to be working fine. Not sure if this is going to be a linkage issue or a gearbox issue? It uses 2 cables to control the gear change. Have had it all apart and looked at it and nothing looks overly worn or loose. I'm assuming a good next plan would be to change the gearbox oil and see if it is full of shiny bits? Car has done 105k now, which I guess is probably about the design life of toyota aygo running gear...
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Feb 22, 2015 15:40
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two_beer_bishes posted:98 Civic EX 5MT. The shifter won't go into first gear! Every other gear is available and engages smoothly. The clutch pedal feels normal (changed the fluid in August or so). When you move the shifter forward into first, it feels like something is blocking it and pushing the shifter to the right at an angle as you push forward. It moves forward about half way before you feel it being deflected. I don't have time to get underneath it until tomorrow, but anyone have any ideas? Is this when stationary? Is it really cold where you are? Two of my cars nearly refuse to go into first when it's cold unless I'm standing still. Like not even rolling in the driveway. When warmer, they're both less picky.
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Feb 22, 2015 15:44
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mr.belowaverage posted:Is this when stationary? Is it really cold where you are? Two of my cars nearly refuse to go into first when it's cold unless I'm standing still. Like not even rolling in the driveway. When warmer, they're both less picky. I just edited my post, got it fixed! Broken plastic chunks were wedged in there
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Feb 22, 2015 15:49
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I'm about to go look at a Suzuki sidekick. Auto 4wd. It's one of the few cars that I've never heard much about. I've done a little googling, but I was curious if Anyone here has strong feelings about them one way or the other.
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Feb 22, 2015 16:22
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Leroy Diplowski posted:I'm about to go look at a Suzuki sidekick. Auto 4wd. It's one of the few cars that I've never heard much about. I've done a little googling, but I was curious if Anyone here has strong feelings about them one way or the other. Cheap, fairly rugged, quick to rust.
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Feb 22, 2015 16:53
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Tomarse posted:I'm having real trouble changing down into 3rd and 4th in my Toyota Aygo (The same car as a Citroen C1 or Peugeot 107. 1 litre petrol, manual gearbox). How do things work at the gearbox end of the linkage? Is it two seperate levers going into the box, or one lever moved in 2 dimensions? Does there feel like any extra movement to be had if you directly engage them by hand? Leroy Diplowski posted:I'm about to go look at a Suzuki sidekick. Auto 4wd. It's one of the few cars that I've never heard much about. I've done a little googling, but I was curious if Anyone here has strong feelings about them one way or the other.
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Feb 22, 2015 17:40
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InitialDave posted:Affecting both 3rd and 4th would point to the selector not engaging properly for me, and if it's ok coming from 2nd, but not from 5th, it suggest that there's some one-sided slop somewhere that is preventing everything lining up nicely - not moving far enough across from the right side of the gate for engaging in the centre, but going further left means it's positioned correctly when coming back central. Is it ok if you knock the lever across the left of the gate between 1st and 2nd, without actually engaging them? There are 2 separate select levers on top of the gearbox moved by 2 bowden cables from under the stick. I have taken the interior trim off and tried to work out the relationship between then and exactly what each one does but it is really hard to tell. Neither appear to have any obvious slack in at either end. The gear stick assembly is mainly plastic and one pivot point seems to have a little bit of wear and slop in it (There is a bit of plastic swarf and the shaft moves around a bit in an elogated hole) but it doesn't seem that much and i think this might be slightly by design due to the nature of the dual cables. The whole assembly is mounted on some really soft plastic bushes that add loads of slop to the whole assembly too. Have not tried unclipping the ends of the cables yet to move it by hand. It was too cold and wet today. Looking at the service schedule it is due a gearbox oil change anyway so it wont hurt and draining it will easily show me if it is full of bits of syncro.
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Feb 22, 2015 18:38
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It won't be the gearbox. Have you considered it being a blown engine mount?
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Feb 22, 2015 18:52
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Slavvy posted:It won't be the gearbox. Have you considered it being a blown engine mount? I agree it's highly unlikely, but it could be an issue with the lever and mechanism that moves as you go left/right across the gate - a roll pin that's come out of place, or wear in a pivot. Strikes me as an odd thing to happen, though, as in I think I've maybe seen it once on a very old unit that had been taken apart and put back together loads of times for eductation/practice purposes.
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Feb 22, 2015 18:58
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