|
Slavvy posted:It won't be the gearbox. Have you considered it being a blown engine mount? No I haven't but I will put them on the list to check. I have my garage dwelling saab now starting on the key so I can get it out and put the Aygo in the dry to look at it  Dave - there was definitely slight wear in one of the pivot points. Didn't look like much though. Looking at parts availability it looks like the cables themselves are common replacement items. Bought myself a haynes and it covers cable replacement but in typical haynes style refitting is reverse of removal and it doesn't go into the adjustment but just says 'check that all gears can be selected afterwards'. Great
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2015 19:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 18, 2024 07:31 |
|
|
Bovril Delight posted:Should be able to be patched, doesn't hit the shoulder. NTB (Discount Tire is closed Sunday) wouldn't touch it because it wasn't within the circumferential tread lines. The local sketchy used tire shop however was more than happy to put a patch/plug combo on it. Cost too much because sketchy used tire shop but still a hell of a lot cheaper than a new tire. Especially because as far as I can tell this model of tire is only presently stocked at Honda dealers and I'd hate to see what they would charge.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2015 21:31
|
|
|
Tomarse posted:No I haven't but I will put them on the list to check. I have my garage dwelling saab now starting on the key so I can get it out and put the Aygo in the dry to look at it Those cables are usually fixed length and don't have any adjustment, unless the Aygo is really really different to most Toyotas.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2015 22:09
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Those cables are usually fixed length and don't have any adjustment, unless the Aygo is really really different to most Toyotas. That would explain why I couldn't see any adjustment on there! I did however find that you can adjust the clutch cable by hand and tightened it up by about 10 clicks. It made my pedal a bit tighter. Then I did 150 miles and found that I can force it down into 4th if I double clutch and rev it a bit and wiggle the stick slightly. Sometimes it grinds when doing this. This feels like a weak clutch!
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2015 23:09
|
|
|
Leroy Diplowski posted:I'm about to go look at a Suzuki sidekick. Auto 4wd. It's one of the few cars that I've never heard much about. I've done a little googling, but I was curious if Anyone here has strong feelings about them one way or the other. I was looking at them but couldn't find a good one. Try looking up Geo Tracker reviews, same thing.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2015 23:27
|
|
|
The rubber seal on my soft top cover is a water trap and I want to keep it dry. ('06 Saab 9-3 Convertible) It is the seal that sits between the hard lid and the top of the bodywork (similar to a door seal). It seems to be a bit of a design flaw: when it rains the water runs down the vertical part and sits in the horizontal part, between the seal and the bodywork it is mounted to. (Hope that is clear). I wonder if I were to run some clear bathroom sealant along the top of the bodywork, it would a) keep water from accumulating and b), if it does build up, the sealant will keep it off the bodywork. Or should I stuff the gap with silicone or similar?
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2015 23:28
|
|
|
I know about the trick where you use propane to diagnose an evap system leak. Will MAPP (Bernzomatic "Max Power Propylene") work the same way, or am I liable to break something?
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2015 23:44
|
|
|
Safety Dance posted:I know about the trick where you use propane to diagnose an evap system leak. Will MAPP (Bernzomatic "Max Power Propylene") work the same way, or am I liable to break something? Yep. Works just fine.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2015 02:39
|
|
|
ROFLburger posted:Just got a transmission rebuild on my evo 9. The car is still on jacks, not running. I just got the trans and shift linkage installed and I'm testing the gears. 1 through 6 engage perfectly. I can't engage the reverse gear. Does the car need to be running in order to engage reverse? Or is it more likely that the rebuild was done incorrectly? So I got the car assembled and running. drove around the block, but could not engage reverse. I tried a few things and found that while stationary, cycling into a few of the drive gears before attempting to engage reverse does the trick. Popping it into 1st -> 2nd -> 6th (or whatever) and then reverse engages perfectly smooth. Anyone know what the hell that's all about? Is engaging the other gears first like slightly rotating the shaft enough to get dog teeth in on reverse? From what I've read it seems this isn't particularly abnormal on this car, even after a rebuild, so I'm not really concerned about it. Does anyone think I should be?
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2015 02:57
|
|
|
ROFLburger posted:So I got the car assembled and running. drove around the block, but could not engage reverse. I tried a few things and found that while stationary, cycling into a few of the drive gears before attempting to engage reverse does the trick. Popping it into 1st -> 2nd -> 6th (or whatever) and then reverse engages perfectly smooth. Anyone know what the hell that's all about? Is engaging the other gears first like slightly rotating the shaft enough to get dog teeth in on reverse? That doesn't seem abnormal if it's the usual setup where reverse uses a sliding idler gear. What I do to get mine into gear on flat ground is to push the clutch all the way in and hold the shifter in the reverse position, then slowly let the clutch out just enough for it to grab a little and spin the gear into alignment. If you're on an incline you keep the clutch in and just let the car roll downhill slowly to align the gear.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2015 03:03
|
|
|
ROFLburger posted:So I got the car assembled and running. drove around the block, but could not engage reverse. I tried a few things and found that while stationary, cycling into a few of the drive gears before attempting to engage reverse does the trick. Popping it into 1st -> 2nd -> 6th (or whatever) and then reverse engages perfectly smooth. Anyone know what the hell that's all about? Is engaging the other gears first like slightly rotating the shaft enough to get dog teeth in on reverse? Seems totally normal. Do as instructed above.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2015 03:18
|
|
|
Did you do the rebuild or have it rebuilt? The reverse idler's dog tooth tips are probably a bit blunted, as well as the ones they mesh with. I would ignore it unless reverse stops working entirely. Next time you do a mantrans remember to check (or have them checked) the condition of those teeth. E: mine have all done that too, because I am too cheap to buy new gears for that and am used to it. If the vehicle has a reverse lockout make sure you swing through center neutral before going to reverse or it will block you by design, and it probably only needs to be put in one random forward gear before going into reverse as this realigns the gears slightly using the synchros for that gear so it is more likely to go into reverse on the next try. I usually used third or fourth for that. kastein fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Feb 23, 2015 |
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2015 03:18
|
|
|
kastein posted:Did you do the rebuild or have it rebuilt? The reverse idler's dog tooth tips are probably a bit blunted, as well as the ones they mesh with. I had it rebuilt. The rebuild kit came with all of the synchros and bearings and poo poo, not sure if it included a reverse idler? I doubt it, but I also don't really know what I'm talking about. I really wanted to rebuild it myself but figured it was probably way over my head.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2015 04:44
|
|
|
Had the ATF changed by the shop. Unfortunately my '04 Camry auto transmission is still sticking on the highway after a cold start at ~3500RPM for like 30 seconds or a minute until it warms up enough to upshift correctly all of a sudden. Any indication on how long my trans will last? I imagine it's had some years taken off its life. It seems to me that it's not worth it to have a $1500-2000+ trans rebuild just to fix this relatively small problem, but I am wondering how much time is left until it manifests more seriously.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2015 06:49
|
|
|
That may just be a bad sensor - off the top of my head, on various vehicles, that's been caused by a TPS, VSS, or a temp sensor. Do you have a check engine light? Whatever it is probably isn't good for your tranny - I would fix it sooner rather than later.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2015 06:54
|
|
|
No check engine light. Should I bring it to a different shop? The only thing my indie shop is offering to do is a tranny rebuild. I know it's difficult/impossible to diagnose over an internet forum.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2015 07:35
|
|
|
Someone in my family bought a brand new E350 and is so paranoid about scratching it that they're afraid to drive it. Would wrapping it or pastidip be a good idea? Any suggestions on specifics if the goal is protection moreso than getting the color you want?
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2015 07:29
|
|
|
Steal it, take it for a few laps around the nearest gravel quarry, return it saying "Congratulations, it's a real truck now. Never worry about scratching it again."
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2015 07:40
|
|
|
Fucknag posted:Steal it, take it for a few laps around the nearest gravel quarry, return it saying "Congratulations, it's a real truck now. Never worry about scratching it again." I think he means like the $50k+ Mercedes Benz sedan, not a Ford truck/van thingy.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2015 08:35
|
|
|
Memento posted:I think he means like the $50k+ Mercedes Benz sedan, not a Ford truck/van thingy.  me reed gud.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2015 09:08
|
|
|
Fucknag posted:
To be fair, I didn't specify, but yeah we're talking about the Mercedes Benz E350 Sedan.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2015 09:29
|
|
|
Chuu posted:To be fair, I didn't specify, but yeah we're talking about the Mercedes Benz E350 Sedan. Haha yeah my first thought was "what the hell dude, it's a work van. come on."
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2015 10:15
|
|
|
Chuu posted:Someone in my family bought a brand new E350 and is so paranoid about scratching it that they're afraid to drive it. Would wrapping it or pastidip be a good idea? Any suggestions on specifics if the goal is protection moreso than getting the color you want? 3M clear bras are more common for protection than wrapping the whole car.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2015 12:59
|
|
|
How do I DIY check if a wheel is out of round? I have a four post lift at my disposal, and might be able to scrounge up a machinist micrometer dial indicator plunge thingie.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2015 13:01
|
|
|
99 ford explorer 4.0 sohc Last week my heater worked great, one day in stop and go traffic I noticed it wasn't quite so warm but just assumed it was because I was mostly idling. Now I can drive for 45 minutes and the air never gets above "very slightly warm", it just slowly got cooler and cooler over a week or so. The extent of my knowledge is to check for coolant, and I have plenty in the tank and in the radiator itself. My coolant temperate guage doesnt work so I was going to just blindly buy a temp sensor to fix that and a thermostat hoping mine is stuck open. Anything else to look or check for? Cage fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Feb 24, 2015 |
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2015 17:05
|
|
|
In my wifes 2011 Ford Escape V6, on Saturday we went across town, about an hour long drive and everything was fine. The weather was cold and snowing here in Denver, really quite a bit of snow. We hung out at our destination for a few hours. On the way back, the car was real foggy and the defrosters were only about halfway effective. At the time I chalked it up to bringing a lot of moisture into the car by getting in and out, having snow all over our boots. I don't recall it smelling bad at the time. Today she called and said it was still getting real foggy in there just the same. She said it smelled bad but thought it was more like exhaust smelling. It has Motorcraft Orange in there I believe, so I'm not sure if that has the same smell as the green stuff I'm used to. So my thought is a leak in the heater core (ugh), I'll check for moisture in the passenger foot well and for a low level of coolant in the reservoir. Is there any other likely diagnoses for this symptom? I'm asking simply because it's a MY 2011 car, with around 26,000 miles, and garage kept. I can't think of much reason for failure other than a defect in the core. The car spent nearly three years with extremely light use, about 1600 miles, and then has been driven by her for the last year for regular commuting. Cursory searches don't come up with this being common, but not unheard of either. The only reason I'm asking this stupid question is to save us some effort diagnosing this issue, and make sure I'm not blinded by my preconceived diagnoses that I miss something simple that can be fixed in a parking lot.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2015 17:17
|
|
|
So is the 'synthetic is bad for high mileage vehicles' adage just an old wives' tale, or should I really avoid it? I'm considering switching to synthetic in my old (2000) 4Runner. I have a small oil leak at the camshaft plug at the rear of the valve covers. My plan was to redo them, making sure it was done appropriately, degrease the engine, check for any remaining oil leaks, then make the switch to Mobil 1 or something similar. My father, who worked as an auto mechanic for years in the 70s (and is extraordinarily competent) says its a bad idea because it can cause new oil leaks. Lots of online information says this isn't necessarily true and synthetics will extend the life of the vehicle. There's logic on both sides. What is the conventional wisdom on AI?
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2015 18:23
|
|
|
IIRC the supposed logic is that synthetics are thinner and will fit through smaller cracks. The right thing to do is get your leaks fixed first.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2015 18:30
|
|
|
^^^^^ Yeah, man...the molecules are smaller. (no, they aren't and oil weight is oil weight) LeeMajors posted:So is the 'synthetic is bad for high mileage vehicles' adage just an old wives' tale, or should I really avoid it? Yes, it can cause more (not new) oil leaks. So can any quality non-synthetic oil. It just so happens that most if not all synthetic is high quality and therefore has a good detergent package. So if the method of oil sealing on your motor is primarily "nasty old oil sludge" rather than "undamaged gaskets", sure.....it can cause more leaking. But that means it needed to be repaired anyway.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2015 18:33
|
|
|
MRC48B posted:IIRC the supposed logic is that synthetics are thinner and will fit through smaller cracks. The right thing to do is get your leaks fixed first. The logic I've heard is that synthetics tend to have better detergents and are less prone to leaving deposits of their own, so typically on an older vehicle the seals are worn out but the conventional oil has plugged the gaps with deposits. You add synthetic, and it clears out all of the old deposits, but that ends up exposing the faulty seals, and you start getting leaks and need a rebuild. Its kind of like you had radiator stop leak in the system, and then cleaned it out. Any leaks that it plugged are gonna leak again. This gave synthetic a bad rap because people thought it was causing leaks when all it was doing was exposing the leaks that already existed.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2015 18:36
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Yes, it can cause more (not new) oil leaks. So can any quality non-synthetic oil. It just so happens that most if not all synthetic is high quality and therefore has a good detergent package. Yeah, that's sort of my thinking. I'm trying to differentiate between the valve covers and rear main seal at the moment (I'm like 95% sure it's the camshaft plug--fresh oil after the last change on the backside), so I'm going to get to that next week, degrease, watch for new leaks. By that point I should be approaching the next oil change and I can make a decision then. If it's rear main seal I may even go with a slightly heavier weight oil (5w-30 to 10w-30) since I live in the South and we never get below like 10*F, and rarely below 20*F. At least until I make friends with someone that owns a transmission jack.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2015 18:38
|
|
|
Plural of anecdote is not data and all, but I switched my WJ from dino oil (regular changes every 3k from new) to synthetic and have seen no leaks. The only oil getting anywhere it shouldn't seems to be an extremely small amount from the oil pressure sensor, and that was leaking before / has not increased since. It's literally just enough to leave a drop of oil hanging onto the oil filter; it doesn't ever drip onto the ground while parked.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2015 19:29
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:In my wifes 2011 Ford Escape V6, on Saturday we went across town, about an hour long drive and everything was fine. The weather was cold and snowing here in Denver, really quite a bit of snow. We hung out at our destination for a few hours. On the way back, the car was real foggy and the defrosters were only about halfway effective. At the time I chalked it up to bringing a lot of moisture into the car by getting in and out, having snow all over our boots. I don't recall it smelling bad at the time. Sounds like a heater core failing if its fogging up the inside, the only other thing I can think of with a temp gauge not moving much and low heat output is a thermostat. But if it smells, start with checking for coolant loss.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2015 19:50
|
|
|
Chuu posted:Someone in my family bought a brand new E350 and is so paranoid about scratching it that they're afraid to drive it. Would wrapping it or pastidip be a good idea? Any suggestions on specifics if the goal is protection moreso than getting the color you want?
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2015 20:15
|
|
|
Cage posted:99 ford explorer 4.0 sohc You're overheating your car, most likely.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2015 21:33
|
|
|
.
puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Jan 4, 2020 |
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2015 22:08
|
|
|
Geirskogul posted:You're overheating your car, most likely.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2015 22:17
|
|
|
BrokenKnucklez posted:Sounds like a heater core failing if its fogging up the inside, the only other thing I can think of with a temp gauge not moving much and low heat output is a thermostat. But if it smells, start with checking for coolant loss. Well I drove down there and looked at it. No leaks or drips on the floor, all of the plastic around the air boxes was completely clean like it had been detailed even. The level of coolant was down a very slight amount from the cold fill line but I have no reference to what it was last week. So I started it up, it smelled sweet, and using the defroster fogged the windows up nearly immediately, and the glass was oily feeling. It's at the shop now, I saw where the coolant enters the firewall and there is no way I'm touching that. It's like 8" from where the hood meets the cowl, very high up and centered. That would mean taking off everything, and I'm not about to deal with that. Not on a Tuesday.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2015 23:05
|
|
|
Extra posted:That seems like a whole lot of work just to increase the chance of your 15 year old high mileage seals springing leaks costing you extra money and hassle that didn't need to be expended. Oil on the engine prevents rust. Well, the valve cover gaskets and seals probably need to be replaced anyways--and done properly. So those will be done anyways. The swap to synthetic is not a particularly important thing for me, just wondering if it would be possible. I know long term it's better for sludge protection and whatnot, just wanted to explore the risks. Since I live in a warmer environment would switching to heavier weight oil have any ill effects? MPG?
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2015 23:07
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 18, 2024 07:31 |
|
|
StormDrain posted:Well I drove down there and looked at it. No leaks or drips on the floor, all of the plastic around the air boxes was completely clean like it had been detailed even. The level of coolant was down a very slight amount from the cold fill line but I have no reference to what it was last week. Still under warranty I hope...? That could get expensive fast.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2015 23:27
|
|
