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Medium Style posted:Thanks, I've never really looked at miniatures outside of GW and PP. If anything, "boutique" manufacturers of miniatures made just for painting and displaying are more likely to have T&A miniatures. It's pretty much mandatory in that niche of the market. I really love stuff like Andrea and Pegaso for example, but they can never settle for just amazing sculpts of cool dudes: they got to cram a bunch of dental floss sized bikinis in there.
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Feb 26, 2015 22:45
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Bad Munki posted:The new figures from the second kickstarter are much stiffer, so there's that. And I'm not sure what you mean by "doesn't take primer or paint well," they take both just fine? And you don't even need to prime. Just don't use a primer that melts plastic. Alternately, don't prime, just base coat. I've had a normal grey primer that I used to use for everything before airbrushing that remained tacky for days. On the miniature that I didn't prime I had to put paint straight out of the pot for it to stick which resulted in a loss of the already poor detail. If I watered down the paint it would just pool really awkwardly because the plastic has a floss finish. The only thing it has going for it is the price but I am mostly in this hobby to paint cool poo poo to an ok standard, not to have a heap of droopy speared fudged detail manz
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Feb 26, 2015 22:51
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Yeah, I won't argue that a lot of spray primers screw it up because the drying agents slightly melt the plastic, that's the tackiness you saw. And what I ran into just last night using what was supposed to be just a plain old acrylic thinner. So they are more chemically sensitive. And don't thin with water, they're hydrophobic. So yeah, there are like two rules: don't thin with water (at least not on your base coat), and be mindful of primers that have acewhatever in them as a drying agent. Still, talking about beginners, the price point is hard to beat for the relative quality of the minis. And professionally painted, it's often hard to tell the difference, which is why reaper had to specifically state that the portraits of painted minis in their bones catalog were, in fact, actually bones, and not their metal counterparts. V  V
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Feb 26, 2015 22:58
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Thinning your paints is one of the first things a beginner should be learning and to practice on a material that won't allow you to do this is frankly dumb. You dont want to be learning bad habits early. And it is kind of odd to contradict me on primers on your first post and then to agree about them on your second post. For anyone interested Google reaper bones primer and you will see I am not the only one . Big Willy Style fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Feb 26, 2015 |
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Feb 26, 2015 23:03
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Also, the source sculpt has to be taken into account. A lot of the Bones stuff that looks the most basic and shittily detailed, like some of the skeletons and zombies and the most basic adventurer dudes, that's because the original sculpt was pretty no-frills to start with. The material seems to be perfectly capable of holding a reasonable amount of detail when they tool and formulate for it. The mold lines can be a bit of a pain but I don't think I'd say they're harder on average to scrape off than for any other equivalent mini. They're harder to clean up than space marines, but that's because space marines are (generally) rather simple with a lot of flat or simply curved surfaces, whereas Bones are fantasy minis with (usually) more organic surfaces and dynamic poses, so the mold lines have to run in some weird places. I didn't have an easier time getting the lines off of PP metals or restic than I did with Bones plastic. re: thinning, no one's saying slop on thickass GW paint straight from the pot, they're saying don't use a lot of water to thin. If you use something like a good dropper bottle paint and don't lay it on too thick (talking about the thickness of the coat, not the consistency of the paint) it won't obscure any detail that 99% of folks don't care about anyway. JerryLee fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Feb 26, 2015 |
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Feb 26, 2015 23:06
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When I was removing mold lines I had to literally carve if off with a hobby knife rather than scraping it off. You would have no hope with files I would imagine but I didn't try them. The poster above you said not to thin your basecoat to get it to stay which is going to obscure detail. If you have to alter your normal modelling painting teqhniques so much to deal with the material I am gonna say it is a bad material to work with. I've been painting and modelling for 15 years now and have worked on more than space marines and GW miniatures. I have or had miniatures from most of the miniature companies mentioned in this thread and bones is hands down the crappest material to work with.
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Feb 26, 2015 23:19
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QUESTION: Some UK posters I have seen recommended Fairy Power Spray (?) for stripping plastic models. How do I go about this exactly? I feel like it will be easier/safer to work with than, say, brake fluid, but if it is the product I'm thinking of it is a spray - do I spray it all over the models and scrub it around, do I get some in a tub (presumably diluting it) and dump the models in for a while, what? I'm a pretty experienced modeller but I've never actually stripped models before, having always bought unpainted. Some advice would be much appreciated.
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Feb 26, 2015 23:30
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I'm not any sort of universal authority on painting, of course, but here's a second opinion from a noted Good Painter.quote:In conclusion, if I were painting this Orc for a top level contest, I would invest in the metal version and have the extra detail, but also be doomed to carry it around in cotton wool and live in fear of it ever being dropped or knocked over. If I wanted this mini as something that would be satisfying for general painting and display as well as gaming and transporting, I really could not beat Bones. which is pretty much all we're saying, I mean no poo poo Bones aren't the Bugatti Veyron of miniatures, but they're fine. Really. They're fine. You can say that being an experienced painter in the first place helps you get the most out of Bones, and I'm sure there's something to that, but on the other hand most people aren't functionally retarded and can process/act upon the instructions "maybe thin your paints more if you aren't using Bones" when and if it comes to that--assuming they're the sort of people who would have obeyed instructions to thin their paints in the first place. Bottom line for anyone sitting on the sidelines of this argument wondering what to do: buy a Bone and try it out. Worst-case scenario you're out much less than you would be with a comparable model in any other material.
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Feb 26, 2015 23:30
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Genghis Cohen posted:QUESTION: Some UK posters I have seen recommended Fairy Power Spray (?) for stripping plastic models. How do I go about this exactly? I feel like it will be easier/safer to work with than, say, brake fluid, but if it is the product I'm thinking of it is a spray - do I spray it all over the models and scrub it around, do I get some in a tub (presumably diluting it) and dump the models in for a while, what? Apparently they changed the active ingredient in Power Spray and it doesn't work any more D: Use plain brown dettol. You dunk the mini in it, leave it 24 hours, and scrub with dish soap.
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Feb 26, 2015 23:32
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Big Willy Style posted:The poster above you said not to thin your basecoat to get it to stay which is going to obscure detail. Bad Munki posted:don't thin with water JerryLee posted:which is pretty much all we're saying, I mean no poo poo Bones aren't the Bugatti Veyron of miniatures, but they're fine. Really. They're fine.
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Feb 26, 2015 23:40
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quote:buy a Bone and try it out
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Feb 26, 2015 23:43
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thespaceinvader posted:Hell, a lot of goons would probably send you a random bone to try out for the cost of shipping, a rat or whatever. I probably would, I've got tonnes I'm never going to get round to painting. I believe Captain Invictus will send a full Dragons Don't Share boxed set to anyone that asks sufficiently nicely. 
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Feb 26, 2015 23:58
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JerryLee posted:I'm not any sort of universal authority on painting, of course, but here's a second opinion from a noted Good Painter. Definitely try it out if you are on the fence but I think it is important to point out the failings of the material. Priming and thinning paints are probably the two biggest tips given to painters in this thread and the two exceptions to the rule for bones. For me, the models coming pre assembled didn't really save time because I had to spend more time literally carving off mold lines and hand painting a base coat because primers don't work . You also have to spend time straightening weapons with hot water which is something you have to do with resin which is usually only recommended for experienced modellers. They obviously aren't unusable but I think there are a few things that will hamper new painters from getting good results.
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Feb 27, 2015 00:00
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Big Willy Style posted:the models coming pre assembled didn't really save time Definitely in agreement on that one, the pre-assembled stuff drives me nuts. For one, who the hell actually wants to paint a horseman who's already been glued to his horse, and for another, uhh, thanks but that head is glued into its socket after only being inserted about halfway? The QC on some of the glue-ups was lacking this time around. That being said, with the slight change on the composition of bonesium, I was able to separate any minis I wanted with a minimum of fuss, just working them back and forth, I think the glue didn't quite hold as well this time. Not to say it wasn't a good solid bond, but I was able to break it free without damaging anything. So yeah, pre-glue is dumb as hell. Here's a really great guide on handling mold lines on bones, with several techniques side-by-side for comparison: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/48668-bones-preparation-glues-putties-mould-lines-etc/
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Feb 27, 2015 00:14
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I'm tempted to pick up Zombicide but I really don't want to clean mold lines on 60 minis. How bad are they for mold lines?
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Feb 27, 2015 00:18
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Monster w21 Faces posted:I'm tempted to pick up Zombicide but I really don't want to clean mold lines on 60 minis. How bad are they for mold lines? Varied. So far I've painted 2 sets of characters and I still had to clean some. Not as bad as FFG though.
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Feb 27, 2015 00:21
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Big Willy Style posted:When I was removing mold lines I had to literally carve if off with a hobby knife rather than scraping it off. You would have no hope with files I would imagine but I didn't try them. Yeah definitely do not file Bones. I personally think they're pretty cool but they have their downsides. They at least seem to have fewer mold lines than some of the PP stuff I've seen.
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Feb 27, 2015 00:32
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I don't think anyone will really disagree on what the relative strengths and weaknesses are of Bones plastic. It's just a matter of how severe you think the implications are. Personally, I find that the advantages of the Bones line for casual painting far outweigh the disadvantages and I recommend them on that basis, but tastes will vary. 
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Feb 27, 2015 02:25
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One thing that's for absolute certain: bones figures are by far the best at filling your shelf with unpainted minis while spending the least amount of money. I'm proof of that.
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Feb 27, 2015 02:46
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Well my first attempt with some of the more advanced techniques learned in this thread is done    I went back and tried lightening up the middle part of the engine glow a bit, but with the way the engine is shaped it's hard to get to. I'll have to get some more practice in with a future model.
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Feb 27, 2015 02:56
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How I Learned To Stop Worrying And Love Terrain. I hate painting big things, I don't enjoy painting armor on minis. Building terrain has always been fun for me, painting it has been a chore. Now? I've learned that when painting terrain I get to thrash a brush at something big and not worry one bit about the hundreds of flaws since the goal is the macro detail:  The Citadel tree set is really, really cool. As everyone noticed when it came out, you get to remove the trees for gameplay/LOS purposes, but the kit itself is also great! The trees are very heavy so they don't fall over so easily. I find the trees don't slot into the spaces so easily, though; some of the trees plop into the slot fine, others wedge into place making it awkward. Regardless, I hosed up the construction since I feel like it doesn't look organic at all. Some of this was on purpose because even the very large canopy pieces have only one mounting slot, that seemed to me like a recipe for broken terrain pieces.
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Feb 27, 2015 03:51
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What size blades should I be looking at for a jeweler's saw for cutting the heads off white metal models?
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Feb 27, 2015 05:05
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 Finished the dwarves tonight, they only took a few hours. Felt like it went so much faster painting 84 dwarves than it did doing 288 goblins. Shown next to a 28mm mini for those of you that haven't really seen 10mm before. Somebody fucked around with this message at 12:14 on Feb 27, 2015 |
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Feb 27, 2015 05:15
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Cool, life-size minis 
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Feb 27, 2015 05:22
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Commissar Canuck posted:Well my first attempt with some of the more advanced techniques learned in this thread is done Where'd you find this model? It's nice! 
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Feb 27, 2015 06:22
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Yeah, I sort of missed it in the Bones slapfight, but that A-wing is boss.
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Feb 27, 2015 06:40
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head58 posted:What size blades should I be looking at for a jeweler's saw for cutting the heads off white metal models? Any size smaller than a standard hacksaw for cutting steel. I got a weird piece of junk like this online and it works:  That the frame is adjustable is weird but it functions, it allows for multiple blade types/lengths to be mounted. What is required is 1) a saw for cutting metal 2) the blade must be small enough to maneuver around angles or tiny space man necks like you alluded to.
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Feb 27, 2015 08:05
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Here's that Libby I was working on. 
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Feb 27, 2015 08:17
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The minotaur symbol on the chestplate is pretty freaking awesome. Where does one find this style of librarian?
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Feb 27, 2015 08:24
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Uroboros posted:The minotaur symbol on the chestplate is pretty freaking awesome. Where does one find this style of librarian? Thanks dude! You can find the Minotaur symbols on Forgeworld. The model is from the Dark Vengeance set and required a bit of conversion to make him less dark angel specific.
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Feb 27, 2015 08:45
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Just to touch briefly again on the Bones thing: I too am not a fan of them (though I love Reaper's metal minis a ton). Along with the previously mentioned issues (floppiness, having to reset droopy swords with boiling water, etc.), one thing I have found is that, unless you have a "solid" mini with a lot of thickness to it (such as a stout dwarf, for example), the figures have a bit of "bounce" to them when painting, which is annoying as hell. At first I thought it was just me, as I tend to cut off the "broccoli bases" that are attached to the Bones figures and pin them, and so I thought perhaps cutting the bases away from the Bones figures made them a bit less resilient or something; but then I tried it with an elven archer-type figure that I left attached to the base as an experiment, and had the same experience. I can't quite explain it except to say that when painting, the figure seems to "bounce" a little when being touched by the brush with anything other than the gentlest of brush strokes. It's annoying as poo poo because (in my experience) it leads to sloppier brushwork and a lot more cleanup. Granted, this could just be my experience alone, but that combined with all the other issues people have already mentioned regarding the Bones range is enough to put me off the line completely (and I am normally a dude who gets all  in regards to getting things as cheaply as possible). I appreciate that Reaper is trying to move to a cheaper-to-produce material for the Bones range, but I'll take metal (or hard plastic, or resin) figures any day, even with the increased price.
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Feb 27, 2015 10:49
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Post 9-11 User posted:Any size smaller than a standard hacksaw for cutting steel. I got a weird piece of junk like this online and it works: Agreed. Just get whatever blade you can find. For minis it matters not a lick. Another tip, don't put pressure on the tool while cutting, just let gravity do the work. Seriously you will be tempted to press to speed it up, but don't. You stand a high chance of snapping the blade.
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Feb 27, 2015 12:51
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Feeple posted:Where'd you find this model? It's nice! Thanks! I was surprised to find out they never made many A-wing models over the years, this was a cheapo snap kit from MPC I got off ebay for $15ish.
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Feb 27, 2015 14:55
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Bavius posted:Here's that Libby I was working on. That's a nice Libby, dude.
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Feb 27, 2015 16:57
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I know it's touched upon in the OP but since opinions differ, here and otherwise, I'll ask because I'm babby painter. I have a bunch of hobby store paints, basic colors that I planned on mixing for different hues. They weren't expensive. Just really cheap acrylic that I was going to start with. Is it okay to used cheap options for learning to apply paints, using brushes? Or should I invest in decent miniature paints like Vallejo. A set of 72 can be had for ~220. Not cheap, but the more I think of the prospect of mixing paints (I'm not super patient), the more I like the lots of quality paints option. I'm watching a miniature painting 101 series on YouTube and the guy definitely recommended getting decent paints, be it GW, P3, Vallejo, or Reaper. Just figured I'd get opinions before shelling out that kind of cash.
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Feb 27, 2015 17:18
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That should be fine as long as you thin them. Those types of paints tend to be very thick.
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Feb 27, 2015 17:20
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Who Dat posted:I know it's touched upon in the OP but since opinions differ, here and otherwise, I'll ask because I'm babby painter. I have a bunch of hobby store paints, basic colors that I planned on mixing for different hues. They weren't expensive. Just really cheap acrylic that I was going to start with. Is it okay to used cheap options for learning to apply paints, using brushes? Or should I invest in decent miniature paints like Vallejo. A set of 72 can be had for ~220. Not cheap, but the more I think of the prospect of mixing paints (I'm not super patient), the more I like the lots of quality paints option. Wait $220 for art store acrylics? Or do you mean the Vallejo ones. If it's art store, You could get more Minitaire paint for that price (Badger's minitaire line is under $200 on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Company-Minitaire-Retarder/dp/B00AX5H86G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425055123&sr=8-1&keywords=minitaire)
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Feb 27, 2015 17:39
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Speaking of Badger's paint line, I am curious about their ghost tints and airbrush washes in general. Is there anything special you have to do when applying them?
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Feb 27, 2015 18:01
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Commissar Canuck posted:Speaking of Badger's paint line, I am curious about their ghost tints and airbrush washes in general. Is there anything special you have to do when applying them? Ghost tints are pretty potent so any streaking will be very obvious.
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Feb 27, 2015 18:15
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Ghost Tints, when I used them, are like a Candy color from RC painting. Its a transparent paint, but very potent.
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Feb 27, 2015 18:17
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