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2011 Subaru Forester The book says inspect the transmission fluid every 30,000 miles, no specific interval for changing it beyond that. A) How does one inspect the fluid? B) Should it just be replaced regardless? Every 30k? 45k? 60k? I'm thinking drain and fill, though the folks may just pay the dealer for a flush instead of having me do it at home.
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Mar 1, 2015 19:51
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Uthor posted:2011 Subaru Forester Inspect the level while it's running in park. The colour should be like runny strawberry jam. It should not smell burnt. I'd change it every 50,000 miles give or take. Less if you're towing often. The dealerships seem to charge a hilarious amount for a fluid flush, the budget lube shops seem to be a little more reasonable around $150. Considering the fluid will run you around $50 and the filter another $20, thats not actually a bad deal.
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Mar 1, 2015 20:05
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Less if you're towing often?  Edit: Less miles, I get it. Good lord I need coffee.
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Mar 1, 2015 20:17
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Not worth it's own thread and certainly barely worthy of its own post but I decided to get rid of my '01 SLK230 and found myself sitting in a brand new Hyundai Genesis. Still kind of in shock over letting the Merc go but I really like this car. And of course; fitted with summer tires the day I drive it home it's snowing balls out and lord knows when I'll be able to get winter tires fitted on it. Yay me. Nice to have a car that has no cabin problems though.
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Mar 1, 2015 20:59
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SeaWolf posted:Yay me. Nice to have a car that has no cabin problems though. If it's anything like Bajaja's Veloster, you won't be waiting long.
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Mar 1, 2015 21:46
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SeaWolf posted:Not worth it's own thread and certainly barely worthy of its own post but I decided to get rid of my '01 SLK230 and found myself sitting in a brand new Hyundai Genesis. Still kind of in shock over letting the Merc go but I really like this car. And of course; fitted with summer tires the day I drive it home it's snowing balls out and lord knows when I'll be able to get winter tires fitted on it. What sort of cabin problems did you have with the SLK?
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Mar 1, 2015 21:46
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blk posted:I should probably change the oil on all vehicles today (Saabaru, Miata, Civic). I have an OEM Subaru filter in the closet but nothing on hand for the Miata or Civic and parts counters are closed today. Which aftermarket brand should I get, or does it matter? Are any/most aftermarket filters superior to OEM filters? The Saabaru and Miata get driven hard, if it makes a difference. Not all aftermarket filters are better than OEM, but there are some brands that are better for cheaper. Purolator is good and readily available.
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Mar 1, 2015 21:46
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blk posted:What sort of cabin problems did you have with the SLK? Mostly just being able to turn HVAC on and off and change the tempurature. defrost, vent position, recirculation pretty much useless. That's pretty much the cabin problems but in this poo poo winter it really sucks not being able to be warm or not suck oil from cars in front of me. Month ago the key recognition module died and cost me $500 to replace, made me very sad with being in love with such a piece of crap. And then the shift lever has started to get stupid loose from the transmission and I really don't want to have to take the car apart to fix that so that was it. Mechanically sound and vario roof in good working order means I could still sell it for more than pennies, so I'm ok to be rid of it. Still a little sad. Raluek posted:If it's anything like Bajaja's Veloster, you won't be waiting long. Honestly problems are what I'm used to. So not having problems would be turkey gravy on the sweetest sugary birthday cake. If there are... well par for the course and I can deal. At least warranty means I won't have to pay while I can't drive my car.
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Mar 1, 2015 23:09
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Neptr posted:Not all aftermarket filters are better than OEM, but there are some brands that are better for cheaper. Purolator is good and readily available. Oil filters are one of those things that are made by a handful of companies, then rebranded by everyone else. Wix is an OE supplier for a couple of manufacturers, for example. Walmart's Supertech brand was a Bosch.
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Mar 1, 2015 23:46
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Here's a stupid question that I'm going to be putting in the Miata thread as well. Can someone tell me if this is the fuel filler flap from an MX-5/Miata? I was looking for a tap cutting tool in my toolbox, and I apparently hadn't opened the bottom section of it in a decade, because I have no memory of putting this thing in there.     
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Mar 2, 2015 00:22
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blk posted:I should probably change the oil on all vehicles today (Saabaru, Miata, Civic). I have an OEM Subaru filter in the closet but nothing on hand for the Miata or Civic and parts counters are closed today. Which aftermarket brand should I get, or does it matter? Are any/most aftermarket filters superior to OEM filters? The Saabaru and Miata get driven hard, if it makes a difference. I used Purolator classics for a long time in a lot of my vehicles with Mobil 1 synthetic. OEM Toyota since then on both my cars (Prius, 3rd gen 4Runner) with really good results. I don't know if all OEM brands are awesome or not, but lots of old Toyota dudes seem to think the OEM is best. Coincidentally it's cheaper than Purolater, so I don't mind stopping by the dealership every couple of months. 
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Mar 2, 2015 01:55
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Memento posted:Here's a stupid question that I'm going to be putting in the Miata thread as well. Can someone tell me if this is the fuel filler flap from an MX-5/Miata? I was looking for a tap cutting tool in my toolbox, and I apparently hadn't opened the bottom section of it in a decade, because I have no memory of putting this thing in there.  It would appear so.
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Mar 2, 2015 06:34
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Followup again to my stupid question. Can't blueball people on a result. Although I've only had a chance to drive it back and forth a couple of car lengths it seems like the locking up wheel is fixed. the shoes on both sides have been replaced, brakes adjusted and handbrake adjusted and lubricated. I just used Inox MX-3 penetrating oil to free it up a bit. Not really sure what I'm meant to use on it. When I did the right side assembly I realised the hand brake cable was retracted on that side too even though I slackened it off for disassembly. I shoved the lever with the lug nut wrench to get it moving then lubricated from the under car end. At some point the mysterious creaking from the left rear disappeared too which is a bonus. The hand brake and foot brake both seem to work fine on both wheels now. This is pretty much a first. I still have no idea what was actually going on but the new shoes helped somehow. I now look forward to giving it as much of a thrashing as I dare. It still needs a tie rod end, steering box, rear brake hose, left rear brake cylinder and CV boot replacement.
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Mar 2, 2015 07:51
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Neptr posted:Purolator is good and readily available. Not to mention damned cheap for what you get. Most Walmart Supercenters carry a good selection of Purolator filters. I'd be running a Purolator in my car now instead of the Fram it currently has if the WalMart I usually get my oil change stuff at had a Purolator in stock (it's a cartridge filter, so I can easily verify that there's no cardboard endcaps on this particular Fram). PaintVagrant posted:08 civic EX (1.8l) That's the textbook definition of something failing in the clutch hydraulics; my 95 Civic was doing the exact same thing, though it wound up being the slave cylinder in my case. Bleeding would fix it for a day or so, then the problem would return. The slave is a lot easier to replace; I'd probably try that first simply because it's easier and cheaper to throw a slave on it compared to the master. The creaking is probably just the pedal assembly needing a bit of grease (the clutch does the same on my car when it's really cold, sometimes squeaks a bit too).
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Mar 2, 2015 08:04
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Real cars have a cable clutch 
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Mar 2, 2015 08:07
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some texas redneck posted:Not to mention damned cheap for what you get. Most Walmart Supercenters carry a good selection of Purolator filters. When that happened to me, I rebuilt all of the hydraulics and it didn't solve the problem. I suspect the pivot for the clutch fork is hosed. Geirskogul posted:Real cars have a cable clutch So the same thing can happen to you when the fulcrum sector thing gets all oblong on its shaft, or a cable starts wearing through somewhere? 
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Mar 2, 2015 09:07
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Raluek posted:
If that happens, I take some needle nose pliers (or a leatherman or something) and twist the clutch cable up a little bit in a spot of free play, then run a zip-tie through the loop. Temporarily tightens it enough for a trip home, or sometimes breaks the cable
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Mar 2, 2015 09:22
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Raluek posted:When that happened to me, I rebuilt all of the hydraulics and it didn't solve the problem. I suspect the pivot for the clutch fork is hosed. That happens too, but this is one of those few cases where "throw parts at it" is the best option before dropping the transmission. A bad throwout bearing could also cause odd clutch behavior, but try the cheap/easy poo poo before you go to full "spend several hours removing transmission, discover it actually is the hydraulics, swear at the 3-4 hours you spent removing it in the driveway, and how much work you have ahead of you to reassemble everything". Simply bleeding it and seeing if the issue goes away, even if it's only for 30 minutes, will confirm it's the clutch hydraulic system. And when the pivot is hosed, you generally feel the clutch binding up somewhat, either while engaging or releasing (cable or hydraulic, though you won't feel it as much with a hydraulic clutch). The hydraulics are more prone to failure than the fork, same with the throwout bearing (if it's the original), and the clutch hydraulics are a known weak spot on that generation Civic. tl;dr try the easy poo poo first, especially when it's something related to a hydraulic system. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:11 on Mar 2, 2015 |
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Mar 2, 2015 10:06
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Geoj posted:How long was it since the last flush/how many miles are on the car? This could go one of two directions - either the transmission is over/under filled causing rough shifts, or else the transmission went so long between flushes that gunk built up inside the fluid passages which flushing broke loose, and now has worked its way into a small passage and is blocking or restricting fluid from flowing through. I think it might be a third option: it's shifting poorly when the engine isn't warmed up, and it's been very, very cold around here lately. I'm not sure if it's actually worse after getting it flushed or not, but it was definitely shifting pretty cleanly today after fully warming up while I was clearing off snow. I guess the new trans fluid could be handling the cold worse, but in theory it shouldn't, right?
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Mar 2, 2015 19:40
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smackfu posted:I think it might be a third option: it's shifting poorly when the engine isn't warmed up, and it's been very, very cold around here lately. How cold are we talking? You'd have to be pretty far into double-digit negative temperatures for ATF to become viscous enough to effect shifting. The only other explanation I could think of is if the shop used the wrong type of fluid, either for your transmission or for weather local to where you are.
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Mar 2, 2015 20:20
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2004 Hyundai Sonata. I gotta get all my motor mounts replaced. Are these parts that your typical auto shop will have on hand or something they'll have to order specifically?
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Mar 2, 2015 20:33
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jonathan posted:About to do a trans fluid swap and filter swap. That still seems like a long time to have the pump sucking air. You're not going to get 100% of the fluid out on any given change; if you're really that concerned, do one change now and another in a few thousand miles.
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Mar 2, 2015 20:46
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Geoj posted:How cold are we talking? You'd have to be pretty far into double-digit negative temperatures for ATF to become viscous enough to effect shifting. The only other explanation I could think of is if the shop used the wrong type of fluid, either for your transmission or for weather local to where you are. I've had several cars that will hold lower gears / not shift into overdrive until warmed up.
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Mar 2, 2015 21:28
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CharlesM posted:I've had several cars that will hold lower gears / not shift into overdrive until warmed up. Indeed, some older autos have a temp sensor specifically for it to know when the ATF is warm enough to allow OD to engage. My mother's trooper was like this.
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Mar 2, 2015 22:16
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CharlesM posted:I've had several cars that will hold lower gears / not shift into overdrive until warmed up. My '04 Camry is having this issue. It doesn't help that the old ATF was pretty gummy before I flushed it. I'll get on the highway with only a semi-warmed up engine and it'll stay stuck at 3,500 RPM until it warms enough and suddenly upshifts and goes to 2-2.5k RPM like normal. I hope it's normal enough to not kill it.
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Mar 2, 2015 23:09
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Slavvy posted:Indeed, some older autos have a temp sensor specifically for it to know when the ATF is warm enough to allow OD to engage. My mother's trooper was like this. My 4Runner does this on cool mornings. Not for long though. I imagine it doesn't take much travel to get it warmed up. I put in a separate trans cooler and re routed away from the radiator anyway, so I'm sure that doesn't help early.
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Mar 2, 2015 23:32
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I figure you guys have experience buying cars privately, so I think this is the best place to put this. Some background: My wife and I are getting a divorce. Both cars are currently in my name but I'm giving her one of them (which is paid off and I have the title for). Here's the hard part: Current plates are Arizona (as is the title), and we live in Massachusetts (which is ok because I'm military and AZ is my home of record). She's moving down to North Carolina. For title transfer, what is going to have to occur? I see on the title I can fill out the transfer of ownership and have that notarized. Can I just do that, then she can drive the car down to North Carolina and register the car in that state, getting herself new plates? It says the buyer (her) has 15 days to transfer ownership, so I'm trying to see the best way to do this. I'm trying to think of everything here-she'll be coming off my insurance and establishing her own (with the same company if that makes things easier) policy. What's the best way to do this? Would it be better for her to drive down there on my insurance (which she could still be on for this purpose) and then once she's down there I send her the title and let her register/get insurance in her own name? Or should we transfer the title up in MA, get new insurance for her, then she drives down to NC (literally the next day) and gets plates/registers the car down there with title in hand? Or something else I'm not thinking of? edit: She'll be towing the car behind a U-haul, so she won't physically be driving the car until she gets down south, if that alleviates anything. nwin fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Mar 3, 2015 |
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Mar 3, 2015 01:22
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Ask your lawyer what you need to put down for the car's value - if it was originally only in your name and it's going to have its value considered as part of an asset division, you might need to put it down as a sale of that amount (which also means she might owe sales tax on it when registering). This is the kind of thing that can totally vary state by state, so talk to ask your lawyer. It might be a sale, it might be a gift, it might be already 'hers' through some state/county laws as part of the divorce, who knows. As long as she doesn't need an SR-22 (legally mandated proof of insurance from the companies due to unpaid accidents or whatever), she should be fine under your insurance as long as she has her own named proof of insurance (not just a generic resident of your household), just make sure your insurance company won't retroactively rescind her coverage once you tell them about the update due to the divorce
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Mar 3, 2015 01:43
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With regards to the insurance, I think it's best if she establishes her own policy at her new address before driving down. It's not really a problem to have two policies overlapping, and she can get insurance without proof she owns the vehicle. In fact, I'd expect the DMV would need proof of insurance before they'll let her transfer the title. I'm in California, and with AAA, so I do title transfers at the AAA DMV window, so I'm not sure how it works at an actual DMV and in another state. But once you have signed your release of liability, I'd expect that it should be on her to insure it from then on. But hey, if anyone wants to contradict me here, I'm not 100% sure I'm right.
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Mar 3, 2015 02:49
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Michael Scott posted:My '04 Camry is having this issue. It doesn't help that the old ATF was pretty gummy before I flushed it. I'll get on the highway with only a semi-warmed up engine and it'll stay stuck at 3,500 RPM until it warms enough and suddenly upshifts and goes to 2-2.5k RPM like normal. In my case it is by design and is tied to the ATF temperature rather than the engine coolant temperature (which is what you see on your gauges). The manual probably mentions it. In my case, it is perfectly normal. You have to look up yours but it sounds normal, especially if it's only keeping it out of the top gear (overdrive). Slavvy posted:Indeed, some older autos have a temp sensor specifically for it to know when the ATF is warm enough to allow OD to engage. My mother's trooper was like this. Weirdly my Mercedes manual says it is tied to engine temperature (it specifically states 80 degrees or something) but it obviously has its own sensor by the way it behaves. First year model printing error?
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Mar 3, 2015 03:02
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Raluek posted:With regards to the insurance, I think it's best if she establishes her own policy at her new address before driving down. It's not really a problem to have two policies overlapping, and she can get insurance without proof she owns the vehicle. In fact, I'd expect the DMV would need proof of insurance before they'll let her transfer the title. That's how it is here too - can't title it without proof of insurance.
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Mar 3, 2015 04:49
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IOwnCalculus posted:That still seems like a long time to have the pump sucking air. Yup. The moment it lost prime it stopped pushing out fluid. So I basically added 3L every time I pumped out 3L after swapping the filter. I added .7L of that Lucas Transmission fix stuff. Hopefully get another few months out of it, and then I'm thinking LS3 swap + 6speed auto + eBay turbo. On a side note, 42LE on a jk is a pain.
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Mar 3, 2015 04:55
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CharlesM posted:In my case it is by design and is tied to the ATF temperature rather than the engine coolant temperature (which is what you see on your gauges). The manual probably mentions it. In my case, it is perfectly normal. You have to look up yours but it sounds normal, especially if it's only keeping it out of the top gear (overdrive). Possibly. Or your engine temp isn't as hot as you might think - don't trust the gauge.
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Mar 3, 2015 06:37
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Perhaps. There was something else that made me think that too but I can't remember what now. I'm really getting off topic though. But, more off topic, funny fact, the gauge is actually labeled in degrees Celsius and moves around between 80 or 90 or so unlike other cars I've had where it just stays in the center.
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Mar 3, 2015 09:16
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I've got an 09 plate Fiesta, and I need to top up the coolant. Made sure to leave the car for 3 hours before I did anything, waited and heard the hiss when I twisted the cap, but I can't open all of it. The yellow upper part of the cap comes off, but the valve? that sits in the neck of the reservoir won't budge. What do I do to move that? Can I?
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Mar 3, 2015 18:20
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Total Meatlove posted:I've got an 09 plate Fiesta, and I need to top up the coolant. Push down as you twist past that first little bit, it's a safety feature to make sure an over pressurized system doesn't launch a cap into space. Are you sure you're filling the right part, the coolant reservoir/overflow tank and not just directly into the radiator?
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Mar 3, 2015 19:50
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Can you take a picture? It sounds like your cap fell apart.
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Mar 3, 2015 19:57
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I've been pressing down as I turn, definitely into the reservoir on the left as the manual states. Will post a picture tomorrow
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Mar 3, 2015 20:00
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Been having A/C issues on the Protege, it acts like it's freezing up. Hooked gauges up; static pressure is fine, while running it reaches good pressure, but then the compressor keeps drawing up the pressure difference; I saw readings in the vacuum range on the low side. Do I have a hosed pressure switch that just lets the compressor run full time, or what? I did throw a can of refrigerant in just in case; no change, and it actually started cycling when the high side pressure spiked to like 400 psi. This was last night and nothing is any better today, and I suppose it'll be venting itself back down to more sane pressures later tonight.  E: Also it's a TXV system, not fixed orifice.
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Mar 3, 2015 20:45
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Fucknag posted:Been having A/C issues on the Protege, it acts like it's freezing up. Hooked gauges up; static pressure is fine, while running it reaches good pressure, but then the compressor keeps drawing up the pressure difference; I saw readings in the vacuum range on the low side. Do I have a hosed pressure switch that just lets the compressor run full time, or what? You have a clog in the system. It needs to be disassembled and flushed.
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Mar 3, 2015 22:21
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