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Anyone have a good guide on how to change out your turn indicator stalk? Do i have to remove the airbag? The right turning indicator is stuck on even when the stalk is in neutral. Turn it left and it blinks left like normal though. I'm thinking it's a relay in the stalk?
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Mar 1, 2015 22:45
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I could be totally talking out my rear end, but the stalk itself wouldn't be the problem. The relay (if that's what the problem is) is a chunky 1" square box that sits behind the gauges; it wouldn't fit in the stalk. All the stalk is for is to give you leverage to move a switch up and down in the steering column. You need to get to the switch mechanism itself. You shouldn't need to take the wheel hub apart, though. The plastic shrouds that surround the column should come off with a few screws and some nervous coaxing.
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Mar 1, 2015 22:50
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A buddy of mine just bought a poormobile; '98 540i, 6-speed, black with tan interior and fully loaded. It has 291,000 km on it, but they've hit all the trouble spots on the car (new tensioners, fan/fan clutch, intake/valley pan gaskets and a new clutch) and frankly apart from being peppered with rock chips, the car is in astoundingly good condition. And it was a reasonably good deal at $4400 Canadian ($3300 US). Now I want a poormobile to go with my E46 poormobile.
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Mar 1, 2015 22:52
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To expand on my question: Symptoms: The right turn indicator goes on and off by itself from time to time. It usually happens when driving over a bump in the road. The indicator stalk is solid and doesn't move because of bumps. Moving the indicator to the left and right has the intended effect, and the signal lamps blink with the right interval when active. It's not a persistent problem and can disappear for days and then return again. If it's the relay, is it an easy DIY (i'm thinking of the airbag mostly). If it's not the relay then what could it be? Battery is new and all lamps work like they should. Because it's often triggered by a bump it feels like it should be something mechanical rather then electric right? Fixes: Replace relay? New symptom!: When i got home today and turned off the car the right side rear light stayed on, then it went out again, then on. I locked the car, unlocked it, and it turned off. So now there are several lights misbehaving. Any ideas? Sidenote: the car has LED light upgrade for the rear lights and the blinkers lights installed by the previous owner and the rear right light shows as faulty on the dash, but works fine in reality for the past 6 months (until now). *edit* Apparently the car does this to tell me i left the indicator on. Thanks car, but i noticed that already. Killstick fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Mar 2, 2015 |
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Mar 2, 2015 10:45
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I've had my 1985 e30 for a little over two years and my boyfriend and I have done almost all the mechanical work on it since we got it: new suspension, new brakes, new clutch, replaced the driveshaft, general maintenance, etc. Aside from a small oil leak it runs well and gives me no major problems. Today I noticed a strong burnt toast smell after getting gas (and no, I'm not having a stroke), and it didn't go away after I drove it the remaining mile or so to work. I took to Google and determined it could be burning oil or burning electrical insulation or a short. If it's the former, probably no big deal and to keep monitoring the oil levels like I always do. If the latter, don't drive it at all, tow it home and try to figure out the short. I pulled the dipstick and the oil is clean and at about 60%. The smell seems to be coming from the rear of the car, but I noticed it in the passenger compartment as well. I have had some electrical weirdness, especially since the taillight compartments leak a little. The taillights still work fine and aside from some dampness in the trunk area when it rains, no real electrical issues. Occasionally the "flight deck" at the top of the windshield will say my oil levels or coolant levels are low, or my brake lights are out, but I'll check and it'll be fine. So between the past oil leak and the past electrical question marks, it really could be either one. So I guess my question is, should I tow it home tonight and then head over to the rental place until I can get it fixed (BF usually does the bulk of the work on it but he's going out of town this week), or risk it? I'm pretty sure I know the answer, but any further insight you guys could give would be stupendous. edit: full disclosure, last week I drove over a slight dip in the road and scraped the lower lip of the car; I highly doubt I hit the oil pan, but I guess it's possible.
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Mar 2, 2015 18:36
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Before I wrecked my e30 I smelled a similar smell after 20+ minutes of driving, I thought it was a a rubber hose rubbing on the fan but it didn't go away after I changed the hose out. Never really did figure out what it was but the car ran fine for 6+ months like that
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Mar 2, 2015 18:43
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rscott posted:Before I wrecked my e30 I smelled a similar smell after 20+ minutes of driving, I thought it was a a rubber hose rubbing on the fan but it didn't go away after I changed the hose out. Never really did figure out what it was but the car ran fine for 6+ months like that Awesome, thanks for responding. I suspect it's the oil leak, it used to be way worse but we replaced some hoses and clamps and the oil pan gasket and it's way reduced, but sometimes I still smell burning oil. But the possibility of it being wiring or insulation gives me pause, so I'm towing it home tonight and will have him look at it. I have a job interview tomorrow in another city and I may go ahead and get a rental for tomorrow if it still smells bad tonight. Coincidentally, anyone ever notice that burning oil sometimes kind of smells like peanut butter? Or is that just me? Maybe I need to stop worrying about the car and get my head checked...
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Mar 2, 2015 19:04
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I'm good with engine diagnosis but horrible at everything else. Someone reassure me that I've got this right before I order the part. Drivers door doesn't unlock or lock via the button on the key, or button on the center console. Passenger unlocks and locks via those methods just fine. I can hear the actuator or whatever it is on the drivers door make the clicking noise, but the door never unlocks/locks. The key does work when inserted to lock/unlock the drivers door from the outside. I'm guessing the actuator has failed and needs to be replaced. Does that sound right?
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Mar 2, 2015 19:27
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If the actuator fully actuates but the lock doesn't move it's probably the actuator linkage. If it clicks but doesn't actuate then it's most likely the actuator (unless the linkage is bound up). Since it's a BMW I'd probably jump straight to assuming the actuator is bad.
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Mar 2, 2015 19:37
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Yep, it also fires off an unseen error code each time it goes off and doesn't unlock the door - so an indy shop can pull the codes. My E46 just would take a few presses lock/unlock before it would pop and I remember a few times when it was particularly stubborn. It had logged hundreds of errors over the years which popped up during my sales inspection. I was too lazy to replace the actuator myself but I bought the part (and the final stage resistor) and supplied with the car to the new owner. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Mar 2, 2015 |
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Mar 2, 2015 19:45
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Hello, beautiful. This popped up in the parking lot near my office. Haven't seen one in the wild before. It wasn't a manual 
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Mar 2, 2015 22:55
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around here, non-x-drive is special order, and x-drive in the 2 series is auto only.
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Mar 2, 2015 22:59
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Well, the smell is gone. The boyfriend noticed that something in the master cylinder needed to be tightened and that brake fluid was leaking out a little. Is it possible that brake fluid can smell like toast? Or is it like the "burning oil smells like peanut butter" thing and I really do need to get my head checked?
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Mar 3, 2015 05:25
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So after sitting in the garage for 3 days due to rain, my E92 M3 is showing signs of a battery that's on the way out; remote key access didn't work this morning, slow crank but started, and then all my settings/trip odometer/etc are reset to default (boooo). It's probably the original battery given that I only have 17k miles, and the PO kept it on the tender all the time. What is the best option for replacement, do I need to get it done by the dealer?
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Mar 3, 2015 20:12
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ColdPie posted:It wasn't a manual It is a great auto though
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Mar 3, 2015 20:20
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Ether Frenzy posted:What is the best option for replacement, do I need to get it done by the dealer? Pretty sure that era of car will require you to get the battery registered with the OBC because the car will output slightly higher voltage to the battery as it ages. If you replace with a brand new battery and don't register it the battery will overcharge and you'll cook it early.
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Mar 3, 2015 22:24
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E30 sold today for my firm price... fortunately the 335D uses the same suspension as the regular 335i.
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Mar 3, 2015 23:57
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Saga posted:So having sold my E30 touring 3 years ago and replaced it with my last car, a non-turbo Impreza wagon, I can't justify the current E30 tax and lack of airbags for the kids. For the benefit of non-US goons, I'm really enjoying the 325ti so far. For reasons I can't quite identify (it's not that much lighter and it supposedly has an identical wheelbase), it has a lot less rear grip than the 330ci of the same vintage that I sold about 10 years ago. It basically drives like a cross between an actual hot hatch and every other m-sport E46. My -ci would just grip at the back until you were going fast enough to be terrifying, whereas (once you turn DSC off) the -ti can be loaded up into a corner and then tickled into oversteer in a reasonably fluid manner. The B25's appetite for revs suits the car better than the undersquare B30, while still retaining the ability to short-shift happily. It does however have that ZX-7R quality of seeming like it'll be proper quick until you actually try, at which point things go a bit agricultural and you get left for dead by a Suzuki. Overall it reminds me a lot of an E30 318is, only less lean-y, less NVH and it's quicker if the road stays straight for long enough.
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Mar 4, 2015 16:09
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Ether Frenzy posted:
The dealer will have to do some coding so it charges properly. I just went through this with my E90. I replaced the battery myself, the dealer charged my around $30 I think for the coding. They also replaced the hold down and the vent tube.
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Mar 4, 2015 17:57
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Saga posted:The B25's appetite for revs suits the car better than the undersquare B30, while still retaining the ability to short-shift happily. It does however have that ZX-7R quality of seeming like it'll be proper quick until you actually try, at which point things go a bit agricultural and you get left for dead by a Suzuki.
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Mar 4, 2015 18:06
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Pretty sure that era of car will require you to get the battery registered with the OBC because the car will output slightly higher voltage to the battery as it ages. If you replace with a brand new battery and don't register it the battery will overcharge and you'll cook it early. Funzo posted:The dealer will have to do some coding so it charges properly. I just went through this with my E90. I replaced the battery myself, the dealer charged my around $30 I think for the coding. They also replaced the hold down and the vent tube. Thanks guys, that's kind of what I thought I'd seen before joining the E90 crew, and the M3 forums agree - surprising to hear it's only $30 from the dealer though. I'll probably get the battery from Sears or something and then have the coding done at a shop.
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Mar 4, 2015 19:29
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Is there any software that lets you clear shadow codes and stuff on an E90?
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Mar 4, 2015 19:40
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BlackMK4 posted:Is there any software that lets you clear shadow codes and stuff on an E90? http://www.bavariantechnic.com/
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Mar 4, 2015 20:23
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Awwww yissss, going to take my 318iS to the cage builder in the next two weeks and get my half cage/roll bar built. Just gotta remove the remaining tar from the rear seat and I"m good to go! Car is brilliantrot (brilliant red) what color should I do for the cage after it comes back? whoring my track pics from the past 6 years of ownership:     
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Mar 5, 2015 18:53
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I'd go white cage and white wheels.
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Mar 5, 2015 19:32
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BraveUlysses posted:Awwww yissss, going to take my 318iS to the cage builder in the next two weeks and get my half cage/roll bar built. Just gotta remove the remaining tar from the rear seat and I"m good to go! That is a very nice looking e30, friend. Today I noticed a sulfur smell driving to work. Started in around the same area as the burning toast smell, and I work in a very industrial city, and was driving through an industrial area both times. I'm starting to think the city I work in just generally smells like engine trouble.
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Mar 5, 2015 19:46
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So tell me how bad of an idea it is to look at an $1500 e28 535is for a rallycross toy. It's not a first or second car. And I don't care about winning. Just sideways fun.
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Mar 6, 2015 01:26
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revmoo posted:I'd go white cage and white wheels. Sadi posted:So tell me how bad of an idea it is to look at an $1500 e28 535is for a rallycross toy. It's not a first or second car. And I don't care about winning. Just sideways fun.
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Mar 6, 2015 01:44
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BraveUlysses posted:Awwww yissss, going to take my 318iS to the cage builder in the next two weeks and get my half cage/roll bar built. Just gotta remove the remaining tar from the rear seat and I"m good to go! Nice looking car. White, black, some other color for the cage - anything but red. 
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Mar 6, 2015 01:46
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mafoose posted:
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Mar 6, 2015 01:49
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Sadi posted:So tell me how bad of an idea it is to look at an $1500 e28 535is for a rallycross toy. It's not a first or second car. And I don't care about winning. Just sideways fun.     Give no fucks. I wish I still had the time, and a 3rd car in which to do it.
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Mar 6, 2015 01:54
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Sadi posted:So tell me how bad of an idea it is to look at an $1500 e28 535is for a rallycross toy. It's not a first or second car. And I don't care about winning. Just sideways fun. Maybe not a bad idea given the intended use, but the M30 is supposed to be big and heavy isn't it? Or is anything with a M20 B25 just too expensive? e: also if rallycross is on a properly loose surface (as per those e36 pics), why not just find a beat to poo poo 318i? I have no idea of US prices though, so maybe all E30s really are $5000, even a non-running 316i with no remaining floorpan. Saga fucked around with this message at 13:36 on Mar 6, 2015 |
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Mar 6, 2015 13:34
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Early e34 525i's are still cheap but other than that E: the us didn't get e30 316i's
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Mar 6, 2015 13:37
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rscott posted:Early e34 525i's are still cheap but other than that OK, non-running 318i with no floorpan! I just would have thought you don't need a lot of power or an LSD for that matter (if you just want to go sideways, not accelerate much) for a very loose surface, so the M40 / M20 options may be easier to keep running. Possibly more enjoyable as well, but not having tried it I have no idea whether the weight of the M30 kills the fun or if you can just dial that out with more throttle. 
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Mar 6, 2015 13:53
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My buddy's e28 535i is very controllable, especially in the wet. I've never driven an m20 e28 so I don't know how those compare. Looks like there is a good chance I'm going to end up with it. He just put in a Turner motorsports rebuildable driveshaft and another buddy built a 3in mandrel bent exhaust for it when he bought the Ireland engineering headers. So excited to daily an old car again, I'll probably sell the e39 and Volvo wagon, thinking about picking up a Volvo v50 manual for the missus.
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Mar 7, 2015 17:50
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I need to replace one of the headlights in my E46 325xi, since I'm replacing the entire unit I figure I might as well as replace both at the same time. I'm thinking of getting something better than the stock... both in looks and in brightness. I am not looking for those retarded blue lights that I see on every car nowadays, am I looking for HID or Xeon or what? Suggestions from anyone else that might have had to do the same thing? I'm not afraid to just get it done at a local shop since I recall that newer lights need to be aligned and such
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Mar 7, 2015 18:51
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shaitan posted:I need to replace one of the headlights in my E46 325xi, since I'm replacing the entire unit I figure I might as well as replace both at the same time. I'm thinking of getting something better than the stock... both in looks and in brightness. I am not looking for those retarded blue lights that I see on every car nowadays, am I looking for HID or Xeon or what? Suggestions from anyone else that might have had to do the same thing? Just get a set of stock Xenon housings and ballasts, then code the car for them. Aftermarket kits are generally trash. Source: I went through this exact scenario with my first E46.
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Mar 7, 2015 19:18
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So - hypothetical question. '13 325ix wagon, 11k miles, "perfect condition". It drives like new, looks like new, and was inspected and everything looks great - no issues. Paid 18k USD at auction. Pulled a Carfax and it has been bought back by BMW USA. Twice. For "transmission shift quality issues". Evidently the second time they replaced the transmission. Should I bite for what he has in it ($19k) or run like it's infected?
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Mar 7, 2015 19:55
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shaitan posted:I need to replace one of the headlights in my E46 325xi, since I'm replacing the entire unit I figure I might as well as replace both at the same time. I'm thinking of getting something better than the stock... both in looks and in brightness. I am not looking for those retarded blue lights that I see on every car nowadays, am I looking for HID or Xeon or what? Suggestions from anyone else that might have had to do the same thing? Unless you're going via the junkyard route, you might want to do just the one that needs replacing, as the cost of each headlight unit is absolutely astronomical. If you have xenon headlights, each housing is a grand right off the bat.
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Mar 7, 2015 20:08
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MrChips posted:Unless you're going via the junkyard route, you might want to do just the one that needs replacing, as the cost of each headlight unit is absolutely astronomical. If you have xenon headlights, each housing is a grand right off the bat. You'll be able to get housings, ballasts, and bulbs for $500-700 for both sides on eBay.
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Mar 7, 2015 20:19
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