|
Miles O'Brian posted:I bought a wide selection of the new citadel paints when they launched and promptly quit the hobby a little while later. They've been sitting in my closet with 90% of them unopened and still sealed for what must be coming up to a couple of years. I've just busted them out and the few I had opened before seem fairly unusable but a lot of the unopened ones have seperated or settled too, particularly the washes. I have gotten great mileage out of this thing http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-121-Paint/dp/B000BROV02
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2015 01:26
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 15:54 |
|
|
Miles O'Brian posted:I bought a wide selection of the new citadel paints when they launched and promptly quit the hobby a little while later. They've been sitting in my closet with 90% of them unopened and still sealed for what must be coming up to a couple of years. I've just busted them out and the few I had opened before seem fairly unusable but a lot of the unopened ones have seperated or settled too, particularly the washes. Try mixing them with an agitator. Some people will say to use ball bearings but that's wrong, you need any small (BB sized is fine but a tiny bit larger is better) metal object that won't be rusted or corroded by the paint and isn't perfectly rounded (Reaper uses pewter skulls, I use some beads). Then just shake as normal. If this doesn't work you may need to add in some acrylic medium (which you can get from an art store) and then try shaking them up again.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2015 01:38
|
|
|
Miles O'Brian posted:I bought a wide selection of the new citadel paints when they launched and promptly quit the hobby a little while later. They've been sitting in my closet with 90% of them unopened and still sealed for what must be coming up to a couple of years. I've just busted them out and the few I had opened before seem fairly unusable but a lot of the unopened ones have seperated or settled too, particularly the washes. In my experience, if they haven't dried out then they're still usable. I have several old pots that I really only use for small highlights, and while they look like they've separated, a good shake and stir will usually be all they need to work fine. Also, you can always add water and stir vigorously, that usually refreshes them fine, too. Let us know what happens!
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2015 01:46
|
|
|
Ok thanks for the advice. I did a little investigating and the washes seem to be ok after stirring. I'm a bit worried that the colour might be altered enough that I should buy new pots anyway but I guess ill take the gamble. Any of the opened metallics are not salvageable, along with approximately half of the base paints. On the plus side the handful of layer paints I opened and stirred seem to be okay so I guess I just need to replace the metallics and bases. Even the liquid green stuff is still, well, liquid.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2015 01:47
|
|
|
Miles O'Brian posted:Even the liquid green stuff is still, well, liquid. But is it still green? And is it still stuff?!
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2015 01:50
|
|
|
Xpostin from da 40k thread: I finally repaired all my toys. Just finished the acrylic highlights, now I need to do the same for the metals, dust on some weathering powders, and then I can call it a day.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2015 06:55
|
|
|
^ I want Forgeworld to release Peturabo already just so I can see him along side your sick rear end Iron Warriors.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2015 07:02
|
|
|
BULBASAUR posted:Xpostin from da 40k thread: Dude. Those are some good loving models right here. If your stuff looks this good in photos I cant wait to see it in person.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2015 07:22
|
|
|
Nitrile gloves should be a standard thing for anyone who does art or car mechanic stuff. Miles O'Brian posted:I bought a wide selection of the new citadel paints when they launched and promptly quit the hobby a little while later. They've been sitting in my closet with 90% of them unopened and still sealed for what must be coming up to a couple of years. I've just busted them out and the few I had opened before seem fairly unusable but a lot of the unopened ones have seperated or settled too, particularly the washes. The ones that are unopened should be fine, just need a good stirring to mix the medium and the pigments...but the ones that were opened you're probably boned on, but some people have had luck mixing in water or airbrush thinner, it probably depends how long they've sat and how solid the paint is. The GW pots simply suck and they never should have changed from the first generic paint pots they used to use. e: aaaand there was a whole new page I missed
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2015 14:14
|
|
|
Crosspost from 40k thread: I've finished the DE squad for my Eldar deep-strike shenanigans. I tried to shade the red a little better and also upgraded my phone (much better camera). I hope that helps, what do you think?   Taken up perch in the ruins...  
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2015 00:25
|
|
|
Anyone have any examples of minis with black armour at nighttime/low light, or any minis at low light generally? E: I mostly mean top down OSL dimi fucked around with this message at 06:18 on Mar 3, 2015 |
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2015 01:55
|
|
|
I'm being ridiculously productive lately, for me   Sorry for cell phone
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2015 05:17
|
|
|
 Slowly but surely trying to work out how I'm going to paint the squad of Scions I've got lying around. Gonna do some camouflage patterns on the fatigues to break up the greyness a little and do Helghast style red/orange eyes as well which I think would fit well with the darker armour. Still not sure though if I should go with Stegadon Scale Green for armour border or go with something a little lighter in tone.
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2015 14:17
|
|
|
berzerkmonkey posted:I'm doing both now, so I can share from both sides of the process. The arm is feeling a bit better, so I'll try to get something together tomorrow, if I can. Hi berzerkmonkey, checking in to say I hope your elbow is doing ok and also just to say some of us are certainly interested on your experience in the whole mold making and casting process. I picked up this silicone kit yesterday, and am thinking I might make those 10mm dollies or spiders after I finish painting up these elves which are the last army I have to do for this Battle of Five Armies set before I move on to the heroes. Main question I have right now is best place to get and working with pewter/other metal for this purpose though I am sure there is more that will come up I am not aware of at this time. All my previous molding and casting experience has been with ultracal 30 and fiberglass.
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2015 16:13
|
|
|
So after getting amped up and having a good time painting and feeling like I'm getting pretty steady improvement with each figure, I've started rounding again on eyeballing the mad world of airbrushing and getting envious of the results--especially in regards to priming and blending--folks have with such. Of course, having Bones II hit the queue too and eyeballing hundreds of miniatures left to paint and the dozen or so I've managed thus far is certainly a factor too. I've gone over the amazing HKR airbrush posts more than a few times the last couple months periodically teetering on trying to tackle an airbrush setup but I think doubling the 'backlog' is enough of a push to go for it. That being said, the main hangups for me are 1) if I'm potentially hitting a situation where I am over-gearing-up compared to my painting level and being an idiot in doing so, 2) if I can round up a cart of what I properly need to have solid tools to dive into things and 3) if I can make it all work in my current painting workshop--which is a room I use as a general office + hobby space with manageable noise and without killing myself with ventilation. For 1, I've pretty much posted most of what I've painted recently in this thread and been trucking along attempting to improve on techniques and pick up better approaches; it's pretty indicative of where I'm at in painting currently. For 2, I've been hovering around with an amazon cart roughly to this effect: Airbrush Tank + Compressor I'm fairly certain I saw recommended a few times in the thread, which seems to be well-reviewed, at a workable price point and is purportedly 'fairly quiet' as far as db are concerned. Iwata-Medea Cleaning Station seems to be the universal go-to-must-have recommendation. More or less ditto their airbrush cleaner. A mask to try and mitigate the 'don't kill myself' portion, and one I've seen recommended around a number of places. Airbrush itself is largely where I'm tripped up, since at least as far as I can tell I'm more leaning toward .2 - .3 for the needle--as I don't have any large vehicle painting on my docket in any foreseeable capacity. I've got some large figures from Bones and the like as far as dragons and giants and those sorts of things, but I expect a .3 would handle them fine. I am largely torn on over/under-committing on the brush because I don't want to end up being the doof with an expensive kit beyond his means but I also don't want to be pitching trashy $40 airbrushes on the regular with lovely results either. Since Iwata and Badger seem to be fan favorites, I've been trawling those two and roughly eyeballing this Badger and this Iwata. I can swing a budget in the neighborhood of $300 for the full monty of the setup without it being too egregious but obviously saving some cash would not be unwelcome. When I start eyeballing spray booths and the like is where my eyes start to glaze over and the price starts hiking; fabricating a booth setup with a fan and the like are an alternative, but I am clueless as to how critical it'll be to couple a respirator mask and a spray booth or its equivalent in my setup. I generally tend to use the same space for painting and office / writing work and it's not uncommon to throw down paints / washes and leave them to dry while shifting to the other side of the room to work while I wait. It may be modestly inconvenient to arrange direct ventilation to a window if sheerly because it's on the opposite side of the room from my painting work space; another alternative would be of course to have a setup/tear-down process for the lot of it, but if possible I'd prefer to aim for something that doesn't require it. Any insights or suggestions (even if it's simply 'hey don't get an airbrush dummy') would be appreciated!
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2015 17:23
|
|
|
Finally unpacked my Sotar 20/20. What do I need to get this thing hooked up to my air compressor? Will either of these do? http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/8-air-hose-with-couplings-597039/ http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/10-braided-air-hose-822965/ and do I need any special adapters to make it work with my standard 1/4 compressor fittings?
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2015 17:45
|
|
|
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006HJCP8S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1LXIMM1KSLFHS&coliid=I39GRVWIQTHZ84 Has been recommended to me as a good starter brush/compressor combo
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2015 17:46
|
|
|
Beerdeer posted:http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006HJCP8S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1LXIMM1KSLFHS&coliid=I39GRVWIQTHZ84 I have this and as a beginner, I have absolutely zero complaints.
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2015 17:47
|
|
|
Naramyth posted some photos that illustrate a point perfectly: it's not the complexity of your technique that matters but how well its executed. You could spend years feeling like your models are pieces of poo poo because they don't have thirty color blends, those look really great and all but what matters more is competent brushwork and consistency. Dang, look at this army that was painted using a consistent color palette ans sharp contrast, that's great!  Oh wait there is  You're holding your miniature less than a foot away from your face, you can see every imperfection, but what matters is how the army looks on the table top. Small details help for stuff like heroes and I like how the plasma guns are stowed in the back seat and painted as if the generators are this burning hell volcano just waiting to blow up someone in a split second that has spent a decade training to become a super duper tin can guy. The first photo is what people see, the second one is what people see when they're checking line of sight but they don't really care about your paint work because he's a grognard that thinks that rules-as-written mean you can't shoot a bolt pistol in one phase then club a guy with it in the next phase. Man, reality sucks.
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2015 18:03
|
|
|
My response would simply be, if it is within your means, always be airbrushing. That 99 dollar deal seems like a good way to get started. I started with a Badger Patriot and a cheap compressor, and I haven't looked back.
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2015 18:05
|
|
|
I have 2 airbrushes, and a compressor, I just need to know what I need to hook the Sotar up to work with a standard 1/4 fitting.
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2015 18:06
|
|
|
Look one post above yours
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2015 18:10
|
|
|
Post 9-11 User posted:Naramyth posted some photos that illustrate a point perfectly: it's not the complexity of your technique that matters but how well its executed. You could spend years feeling like your models are pieces of poo poo because they don't have thirty color blends, those look really great and all but what matters more is competent brushwork and consistency. You see even more imperfections with photos since the camera focuses even more closely than your eyes can. If rank 1 is THIN UR PAINTZ and rank 10 is some sick Golden Daemon/Giraldez poo poo I personally think you cannot distinguish between 6-10 without the aid of a camera.
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2015 18:19
|
|
|
nesbit37 posted:Hi berzerkmonkey, checking in to say I hope your elbow is doing ok and also just to say some of us are certainly interested on your experience in the whole mold making and casting process. I picked up this silicone kit yesterday, and am thinking I might make those 10mm dollies or spiders after I finish painting up these elves which are the last army I have to do for this Battle of Five Armies set before I move on to the heroes. Main question I have right now is best place to get and working with pewter/other metal for this purpose though I am sure there is more that will come up I am not aware of at this time. All my previous molding and casting experience has been with ultracal 30 and fiberglass. Sorry - I've got a splint on and it makes typing a one-handed affair, and not in the good way.  I'm trying to type some things out at a snail's pace - is there anything specific you'd like to know that I can incorporate into what I'm writing, or are you just looking for general stuff? I can probably write quite a bit, but I don't want to clutter up the thread too much with my ramblings (unless people are interested in that.) I think I'll get the splint off tomorrow, which will make typing a little easier and a lot faster.
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2015 19:17
|
|
|
I'm certainly interested in whatever you have to say, but I think the main things I know I am looking for more info on is: -Info on casting materials you like to use and why. Particularly for gravity casting, so like metals and resin or plastic when applicable. -----Where are some good places to get said casting materials. -What you like to make your molds out of -----Any tips on making the mold that a beginner is likely to screw up (ie. making sure to put in enough air vents in the right places, release agents) -Just general mold making and casting tips or experiences you may have. Not so much the basics of how to make one but things you have learned or points where someone is likely to screw the whole thing up. -If there are anythings to pay attention to when doing certain types of models or scales that tend to be a pain or just different for this process Thanks and glad to hear your arm is healing and that splint is coming off soon.
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2015 20:21
|
|
|
Post 9-11 User posted:Naramyth posted some photos that illustrate a point perfectly: it's not the complexity of your technique that matters but how well its executed. You could spend years feeling like your models are pieces of poo poo because they don't have thirty color blends, those look really great and all but what matters more is competent brushwork and consistency. This post coupled with the reccs for the starter setup are really, really appreciated; thank you muchly! I have doubtless been over-fussing over things along the way with getting back into painting, but I've been coming away from most figs feeling pretty happy with how they look on the table now so I should probably be satisfied with that; I'm just keen to improve on things that I've been seeing some folks doing with fantastic results around here, especially with metallics recently (seriously felt dumb that I have never fathomed the premise of non-metal metals before, etc.) but beyond that, even picking up some really basic things over how I'd painted years ago (such as, hey, painting highlights!) has made a big difference. I dig the notion of the compressor kit with a bundle of airbrushes and the price is definitely tough to beat; my only two concerns/questions there are feeling like I'm going to end up really wanting a compressor with a tank long-term and a decent number of the reviews on that compressor note that it can be noisy. I'm hoping to be noise-conscious with my setup (at least as much as a fellow can reasonably be when working with a drat air compressor) and that's another reason I was figuring on a tank being handy (beyond the benefits of consistency I've read folks noting.) Still, that kit looks super solid overall. My last lingering concern remains how I'm going to handle ventilation and safety with the lot of it, particularly if I'm trying to set the thing up for a relatively-permanent fixture in an office slash hobby room; I can work with open windows but Michigan is pretty brutal about winter most of the time. I'm just trying to gauge what the best approach will be between mask / ventilation / etc. Thanks again!
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2015 20:44
|
|
|
nm Found what I was looking for elsewhere. Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Mar 3, 2015 |
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2015 22:18
|
|
|
Z the IVth posted:You see even more imperfections with photos since the camera focuses even more closely than your eyes can. If rank 1 is THIN UR PAINTZ and rank 10 is some sick Golden Daemon/Giraldez poo poo I personally think you cannot distinguish between 6-10 without the aid of a camera. You definitely can. Also, levels 8-10 are all about ridiculously refined embellishments. That all said, yeah. You don't have to have a lot of depth of technique to turn out good table top dudes. poo poo, you don't even have to have depth at technique to turn out stuff that looks good up close see: Bachtere. And with said, for me getting a decent looking army on the table isn't my goal. Painting is my hobby. Gaming is a social activity. I want to be getting better at painting every day, because part of the joy of a hobby is the mastery that follows.
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2015 23:48
|
|
|
Gareth Gobulcoque posted:You definitely can. Also, levels 8-10 are all about ridiculously refined embellishments. That all said, yeah. You don't have to have a lot of depth of technique to turn out good table top dudes. poo poo, you don't even have to have depth at technique to turn out stuff that looks good up close see: Bachtere. I always felt the higher end of painting was where true 'art' comes in. It becomes less about sheer technical skill and more about colour choice, composition and how elements of your miniature interact. My old art teacher once said that mini painting was the 'technique of no technique' and i definitely agree with him with regards to mid and low level painting. In a way I feel that army painting inhibits your overall growth as a painter because you cant keep going hog-wild with each figure. Painting up my Aleph dudes I am feeling increasingly cramped for style since everyone jas to look more or less the same. Has anyone else felt this way and if so how have you dealt with it?
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2015 03:38
|
|
|
poo poo, I can barely make it through a unit much less an army before I start dreading it. I have a lot of variety in what I paint, so I can always do something fresh. I also don't worry about playing it painted. poo poo will get painted eventually. It's my hobby; I'm not gonna turn it into work.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2015 03:49
|
|
|
Finished up the third Taurox for this army:    
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2015 03:49
|
|
|
What are you doing for the snow SRM? I love how it looks caked in the treads. Just finished this guy. (Calling him finished because I ran out of usable bases.)   
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2015 04:20
|
|
|
Loving that old school Tyrant! The fades are really awesome. The snow is Fyrbrand's method, but I think I overdid it on the treads. It's about a 33/33/33 mix of white glue, snow basing (I use Gale Force 9 but Woodland Scenics is the same stuff, and cheaper) and water, mixed into a paste. I spread that paste over it and then toss some snow on top of that. I usually go lighter on the treads but I kinda overdid it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2015 06:34
|
|
|
gently caress it, too lazy to take better pictures. Test combat squad is done:
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2015 09:03
|
|
|
This is basically 90% done, still needs tartan on the tabard/loincloth thingy and some various bits of detail tweaking, but I wanted to post pictures because of how proud I am of the leather on the coat. I basically painted it looking "new" and then went in with a lot of layers of glazes, stippling, and scratches to simulate weathering. Very happy with how it turned out, though I think the highlights could use a tiny bit more work, they're a little flat right now.   
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2015 09:12
|
|
|
That looks amazing as-is, I don't think you need to do anything more to it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2015 09:33
|
|
|
 Got my first lot of 8th legion marines done.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2015 11:27
|
|
|
I actually took a painting course to up my technique and when I told the instructor what my goal is it's basically, "that's stupid" and told me to paint more still life scenes. Worse still, all he really cared about was texture, every day he'd tell us to slab gobs of paint on because he likes the style where the paint is so high off the palette it's like embossing. The art history was neat-o and I did pick up some things about warm and cool color uses, most of all how to balance the use of colors in the whole piece.adamantium|wang posted:gently caress it, too lazy to take better pictures. Test combat squad is done: NSFW those fuckers, because drat. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2015 11:29
|
|
|
stabbington posted:This is basically 90% done, still needs tartan on the tabard/loincloth thingy and some various bits of detail tweaking, but I wanted to post pictures because of how proud I am of the leather on the coat. I basically painted it looking "new" and then went in with a lot of layers of glazes, stippling, and scratches to simulate weathering. Very happy with how it turned out, though I think the highlights could use a tiny bit more work, they're a little flat right now. Thats some real nice leather. If you don't mind me being super critical, theres bits of obvious banding where maybe you didn't break up the wash lines with stippling enough. You can see it most clearly in the picture furthest to the left. But apart from that I really like it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2015 12:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 15:54 |
|
|
adamantium|wang posted:gently caress it, too lazy to take better pictures. Test combat squad is done: dat gradiation...
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2015 15:00
|
|