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gently caress, and those usually require a compressor, don't they. God dammit.
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Mar 3, 2015 22:24
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Time to prep for some transmission work. Nothing's wrong with how it acts, but since I'm just about done catching up with every bit of maintenance with the engine/vacuum/fuel system, the transmission's next on the chopping block. It's a Chrysler A413 automatic 3-speed transaxle that was manufactured in 87 and will have around 72k~73k miles on it by the time I get to doing the work itself. Given the state of the radiator hoses when I replaced them, I'm thinking it was sitting undriven in a yard/garage/whatever for a period of several years with the PO, but I've put about 4k miles on the car so I'm thinking if any gunk was going to cause issues it already would have. It's obviously getting a filter replacement and a fluid drain/refill. The oil pan and (rear) conversion gear pan/cover both have some rust, so I'm replacing the pans. I've already picked up the conversion gear cover from a pick and pull, and I'm thinking the oil pan itself will just come new from rockauto since the donor car's was already gone. I'm also planning to replace every hose I can find simply due to the age of the car. (Of which I'm assuming there are 2 for transmission fluid cooling; I haven't paid much attention to that side of the car yet)
e: Regarding draining the fluid, I've seen notes like this posted at a bunch of sites. To my ears it sounds as insane as running an engine while draining the engine oil - is it bad, or is it actually standard practice for people that don't have what I'm assuming are big and expensive machines? quote:To extract as much of the old ATF as possible, leave the pan on, remove a trans cooler line at the radiator, put a drain pan under it, then start the engine for a few seconds to find out which way the fluid is flowing. It doesn't matter whether you use the inlet or outlet line except that you have to attach a small hose either to the line connector or the radiator outlet in order to collect the ATF. Put the hose into the largest jug you can find, and let the engine idle until air starts spurting. Many professionals enhance this procedure by pouring a few quarts of fresh fluid into the dipstick tube at roughly the same rate that the old fluid is coming out, thus adding flushing action. Sentient Data fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Mar 4, 2015 |
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Mar 4, 2015 03:14
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IOwnCalculus posted:Can you take a picture? It sounds like your cap fell apart. Picture as promised;  Tried again today, the cap is tough to move in the first half of trying to remove it, then after that becomes a lot looser.
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Mar 4, 2015 15:10
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Yeah, that's supposed to be attached to the cap. I'd use pliers/screwdriver to take it out, and get a new one. Not in that order.
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Mar 4, 2015 15:12
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Anyone have experience with truck rentals from Penske versus, say U-Haul? The reason I ask is because I have a 670-odd mile move coming up, and I was originally looking to rent from Penske, as I get a 15% discount from them for their truck rental. For a 26' truck this looks to be about $1,600. The thing is, U-Haul offers a 26' truck for roughly $1,300. This is a huge discount, but I'm concerned right now because I have rented some clapped out as hell U-Hauls that were literally falling apart as I drove them (granted, these were the 13' models). The U-Haul also has a gasser compared to the diesel Penske - I'm guessing the U-Haul probably uses some 6+ liter V8 which they claim gets 10mpg. I'm inclined to believe it'll be a tired, somewhat undersized engine that won't get anything close to that based on my previous experiences with U-Haul. Also, the only other advantage Penske offers over U-Haul is unlimited mileage, but U-Haul gives you 786 miles, which should be plenty. Anyone rented a 26' U-Haul before? Is it worth $300 more to get a diesel truck to move a bunch of household goods, or would the gasser U-Haul do alright? Anyone have any other rental suggestions (buying and reselling a truck is out, as I am coming from overseas and won't have the ability to buy and register a truck in one day). Any advice is appreciated.
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Mar 4, 2015 15:27
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Ripoff posted:Anyone have experience with truck rentals from Penske versus, say U-Haul? The reason I ask is because I have a 670-odd mile move coming up, and I was originally looking to rent from Penske, as I get a 15% discount from them for their truck rental. For a 26' truck this looks to be about $1,600. As a former UHaul employee: Avoid UHaul.
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Mar 4, 2015 15:31
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Krakkles posted:Yeah, that's supposed to be attached to the cap. I'd use pliers/screwdriver to take it out, and get a new one. Well that's poo poo but the replacement looks like it's a tenner so not too bad.
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Mar 4, 2015 17:04
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Ripoff posted:Anyone have experience with truck rentals from Penske versus, say U-Haul? The reason I ask is because I have a 670-odd mile move coming up, and I was originally looking to rent from Penske, as I get a 15% discount from them for their truck rental. For a 26' truck this looks to be about $1,600. I moved 800-some miles with a 26 foot Penske, and it was Also, Penske trucks can be rented from Home Depots, which are typically in better parts of town than U-Haul places.
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Mar 4, 2015 17:13
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Safety Dance posted:I moved 800-some miles with a 26 foot Penske, and it was I know this is gonna hurt either way, but if $300 is the difference between a half-assed ball tap versus a full-on 50-Shades-Of-Gray-ball-stomping-in-stilettos experience, the extra cash is well worth it. Ozmiander posted:As a former UHaul employee: Avoid UHaul. Sounds like I'm calling Penske tonight, thanks!
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Mar 4, 2015 17:57
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1999 Chrysler Cirrus V6. 166,000 miles. Bought for $1,000, but spent a fair amount of money repairing it since so far it has been cheaper than buying a new car. I recently took my car to a shop to have it inspected since the "check engine" light came on, and they told me that my o2 sensors and catalytic converter are going bad and need to be replaced. Since they seem to be the original parts, this isn't difficult to believe. The real question I have is that the mechanic also suggested that it might be a good idea to also replace the spark plugs. Would this be a good idea? Aside from that, my car seems to more or less run fine, but it is stinky and I sometimes feel the need to drive around with the windows down, just in case. VVVVV - She should have filed a lawsuit. Mostly against the Uhaul folks that hooked it up in the first place, which violated company policy, resulting in the problems down the road. Jakcson fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Mar 4, 2015 |
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Mar 4, 2015 18:11
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Years and years ago, when my fiancee was moving from New York to Idaho, she went to a uhaul location and they installed a trailer hitch on her 98 Explorer, and rented her a trailer. She made it to El Paso (going through Phoenix, then up) when there was a problem with the trailer wiring or something, so she went to the closest uhaul location to have it fixed so she could continue her journey. They politely informed her that they can't rent trailers to her era of Explorer (company policy or something), and promptly confiscated the trailer and dumped her poo poo in the lot, and told her that it wasn't their problem. gently caress uhaul forever.
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Mar 4, 2015 18:13
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Jakcson posted:1999 Chrysler Cirrus V6. 166,000 miles. Bought for $1,000, but spent a fair amount of money repairing it since so far it has been cheaper than buying a new car. Plugs in those car are (almost certainly) nickel and should be cheap to replace. I don't know about that particular engine, but nickel plugs are a couple bucks each and shouldn't take more than a few minutes to change. (Or, certain cylinders could have plugs in very difficult to reach places, in certain engine/vehicle combinations.) Nickel plugs last about 30k miles. If it smells like fuel then your car is running rich, which is a not-uncommon symptom of a bad O2 sensor. Whether or not the cat needs to be replaced depends on how long and how rich it's been running, but I wouldn't doubt that it's probably been damaged. If it actually smells like fuel inside the car then it may be indicative of an exhaust or fuel leak, both of which can be dangerous.
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Mar 4, 2015 18:46
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totalnewbie posted:Plugs in those car are (almost certainly) nickel and should be cheap to replace. I don't know about that particular engine, but nickel plugs are a couple bucks each and shouldn't take more than a few minutes to change. (Or, certain cylinders could have plugs in very difficult to reach places, in certain engine/vehicle combinations.) Nickel plugs last about 30k miles. Unlike its LH big bro it's a transverse layout so the rear bank might be hard to reach.
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Mar 4, 2015 19:16
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ok, what the hell is this button for? in before "fart fan"
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Mar 4, 2015 19:26
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nitrogen posted:ok, what the hell is this button for? Engine break button. Lets the smoke out of your engine. (Opens a valve on the compression stroke to avoid compression, slowing the motor on a diesel).
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Mar 4, 2015 19:32
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nitrogen posted:ok, what the hell is this button for? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rErrkuLYAvI
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Mar 4, 2015 19:37
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CharlesM posted:Unlike its LH big bro it's a transverse layout so the rear bank might be hard to reach. Welp! Inline engine supremacy? 
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Mar 4, 2015 21:36
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With the demise of the FJ is the wrangler the only SUV they still make with a stick and manual transfer case?
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Mar 4, 2015 22:27
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door Door door posted:With the demise of the FJ is the wrangler the only SUV they still make with a stick and manual transfer case? The rumor mill kinda indicates that the stick might be going away soon lol
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Mar 4, 2015 22:54
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1972 IH Pickup, daydreaming about future modifications. Thinking about adding a second battery for winch applications, probably for a portable winch that I can put in the bed, under the front bumper, rear hitch or mount in a trailer. Regardless of all of that, I'm unsure of how to wire it. I read some guides that show them wired in parallel and some that say you need an isolator to avoid damaging a battery. I don't understand the reasoning for the isolator, basically. What's the right way to do this?
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Mar 4, 2015 22:54
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So I have a 2013 Fusion Titanium with around 6,000 miles on it. I brought it to the dealer so they could swap the fuel tank (apparently Ford built it with the 12 gal hybrid tank instead of the 17 gal standard tank). While it was there, I asked them to check out the brakes since I was getting a pulsating when stopping. I figured just a warped rotor or something. They ended up replacing pads and rotors in the front and rear - under warranty at least. I consider myself reasonably mechanically inclined, but how the hell do brakes and rotors need replacing at only 6k miles? That's a first for me.
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Mar 4, 2015 22:55
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It would've been a rotor, charging disc machining to warranty would've been a pain in the rear end so they just did the easy thing and put new rotors on it. New pads par for the course, just in case the old ones were defective somehow.
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Mar 4, 2015 23:13
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Git Mah Belt Son posted:I consider myself reasonably mechanically inclined, but how the hell do brakes and rotors need replacing at only 6k miles? That's a first for me. Maybe you do a lot of hard braking? Did you know that on many automatics you can actually shift into the "Low" or 1st gear while in a higher gear, and it will safely downshift and utilize the "engine brake" feature? Or at least, that's what my car manual says. Obviously this should mostly just be done when you plan on bringing your car to a full stop, or you could turn off the Overdrive to give yourself a little engine braking boost when going down mountains. Jakcson fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Mar 4, 2015 |
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Mar 4, 2015 23:14
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Slavvy posted:It would've been a rotor, charging disc machining to warranty would've been a pain in the rear end so they just did the easy thing and put new rotors on it. New pads par for the course, just in case the old ones were defective somehow. That's sort of what I figured since it seemed strange as hell that a car couldn't have just had the rotors turned being as they were that new. I'm not hard on brakes and I've never had to replace them even close to that quickly in the past. Just seemed weird to me they did all 4 instead of just the axle the offending rotor was on.
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Mar 4, 2015 23:23
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Do you left foot brake? Hard braking just wears out the brakes. 90% of the shudders I see originate with people gently riiiiiiiiidiiiiiiing the braaaaaaaaaakeeeee down hills instead of just braking decisively once. Left foot brakers are the absolute worst; I can say without exaggeration that the difference between left foot braking and driving properly is around 50% brake pad lifespan on some vehicles. I'd say they were just playing it safe and trying to make sure you don't come back later. It's also probable that their warranty hours are more than it actually takes to do that job so they'd be making a slight percentage on the labour.
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Mar 5, 2015 00:26
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Slavvy posted:Do you left foot brake? Hard braking just wears out the brakes. 90% of the shudders I see originate with people gently riiiiiiiiidiiiiiiing the braaaaaaaaaakeeeee down hills instead of just braking decisively once. Left foot brakers are the absolute worst; I can say without exaggeration that the difference between left foot braking and driving properly is around 50% brake pad lifespan on some vehicles. When you mention "left foot brakers", are you talking about people that literally use their right foot on the gas, and their left foot on the brake?  I thought the left foot was for the clutch (if you have one) only. (How do they manage to get their driver's license if they can't figure out the basics?)
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Mar 5, 2015 00:49
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There's also the distinct possibility that, you know, the rotors / pads were just defective. Given that they apparently managed to put the wrong fuel tank in the car, some less-than-great rotor castings and pad materials is no surprise to me.Jakcson posted:When you mention "left foot brakers", are you talking about people that literally use their right foot on the gas, and their left foot on the brake? Yes. There are people who don't realize that driving a gokart as a kid and left-foot braking there does not mean you should left-foot brake your real car. Jakcson posted:(How do they manage to get their driver's license if they can't figure out the basics?) 
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Mar 5, 2015 00:54
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People do it on autos because they like to think they're some sort of racing driver. But as Slavvy pointed out most people just ride the brake because they don't have a good feel for it.
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Mar 5, 2015 00:54
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Left-foot braking a FWD car is a pretty drat useful technique.
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Mar 5, 2015 01:08
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InitialDave posted:Left-foot braking a FWD car is a pretty drat useful technique. ...because it's a good idea to accelerate and brake at the same time? Well, this is the AI Stupid Question Thread.
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Mar 5, 2015 01:12
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InitialDave posted:Left-foot braking a FWD car is a pretty drat useful technique. On a race track maybe, in which case that explains the brake problem.
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Mar 5, 2015 01:22
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It's a technique that lends itself very well to balancing a FWD (or certain varieties of AWD) car in less than perfect conditions, including on the road (e.g. damp or dieselly roundabouts). It's not at all necessary, and you can get along just fine without it, but it's a good thing to practice and be able to apply when appropriate. This is totally different to people dragging the brakes or two-footing autos because they don't know any better.
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Mar 5, 2015 01:31
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IOwnCalculus posted:There's also the distinct possibility that, you know, the rotors / pads were just defective. Given that they apparently managed to put the wrong fuel tank in the car, some less-than-great rotor castings and pad materials is no surprise to me. Quality is job 1
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Mar 5, 2015 01:55
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Nope, definitely not a left foot braker. I'm really thinking it makes sense they did both axles just in case. Makes sense to me. IOwnCalculus posted:There's also the distinct possibility that, you know, the rotors / pads were just defective. Given that they apparently managed to put the wrong fuel tank in the car, some less-than-great rotor castings and pad materials is no surprise I have to admit, it was a pretty funny failure. I wasn't even mad at that one. I guess the tanks are pretty much identical visually - the hybrid tank just has a plastic wall to reduce capacity. Great job Ford assembly! There's a TSB for it, which means it happened more than once...
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Mar 5, 2015 02:00
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^^^^^ - Well, you can't expect union workers on the assembly line to actually read the part numbers, can you? Are you some kind of racist? Besides, when you pay full price for an American car, you should be willing to accept the possibility that you are not going to get your money's worth. This has been a thing since the 60's, I think. CharlesM posted:Quality is job 1 I plan on moving to Detroit this year and joining a union. I hear things are just wonderful over there. Jakcson fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Mar 5, 2015 |
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Mar 5, 2015 02:01
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Jakcson posted:^^^^^ - Well, you can't expect union workers on the assembly line to actually read the part numbers, can you? Are you some kind of racist? Two things - It was assembled in Mexico so no Union labor and I bought it used with 3600 miles for $24k - a whole lot less than the $37k sticker price. 
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Mar 5, 2015 02:09
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Git Mah Belt Son posted:Two things - It was assembled in Mexico so no Union labor and I bought it used with 3600 miles for $24k - a whole lot less than the $37k sticker price. OK, fine. I concede on all those points. But why would they even manufacture gas tanks that are crippled like that? Is there a serious risk of the gas tank falling off if too much fuel is in the tank? Wouldn't you think the customer wouldn't mind adding more fuel if it meant he or she could get more mileage out of their car? And besides, I thought a lot of hybrids automatically "burn" fuel if the computer detects that it's been sitting there for more than 2 months or something (which actually makes sense, as I think old fuel may damage your car). Jakcson fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Mar 5, 2015 |
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Mar 5, 2015 02:21
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Chances are the hybrid version of the car has some other componentry taking up the cavity vacated by half the tank, or the shell of the vehicle differs to accommodate the battery pack or whatever.
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Mar 5, 2015 02:25
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Slavvy posted:Chances are the hybrid version of the car has some other componentry taking up the cavity vacated by half the tank, or the shell of the vehicle differs to accommodate the battery pack or whatever. This makes sense. Git Mah Belt Son posted:I guess the tanks are pretty much identical visually - the hybrid tank just has a plastic wall to reduce capacity. This does not.
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Mar 5, 2015 02:43
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Uthor posted:This does not. Maybe it is a California only fuel tank. To assist in reducing pollution or something.
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Mar 5, 2015 02:48
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