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do any of y'all know about or have experience with warranties on hybrid cars? My aunt has a 2005 Accord hybrid w/ 148k miles, and the IMA battery light just came on. After doing some research it looks like in CA (& some other states) components related to emissions in PZEV & other hybrid vehicles must be warrantied up to 10 years/150k miles. I found some folks on a random forum that said they had to tussle w/ Honda, going back & forth between Honda & the Air Resources Board, but eventually got their $3-$4k batteries replaced by Honda under that regulation. The folks I've talked to over the phone at Honda say things like "this vehicle was built to comply with federal emissions standards, not California standards," & "There was a warranty extension but only to 120k miles & not for your VIN." but based on everything I've read and what I was told by the ARB rep, the California standards can supersede federal regulations if the car was sold & is operated in California (which it was, and is). Additionally, the anecdotes I've found online have been spot-on as to exactly what both Honda & the Air Resources Board reps would say. ARB told me to request the issue be flagged for review by a Honda case manager so that I could be assigned a case number, which I could then relay to the ARB, who would then send me a warranty complaint form. And I've gotta move my rear end on this as the car is rapidly approaching its tenth year. All of this was foretold by what I've found online. Seems kinda lovely of Honda if they're just making me do the same dance other folks have even though they've been told to comply with these rules before, but if it saves her four grand, whatever. Aaaanyway, I think it's a pretty interesting situation if nothing else. e: oh hey look what I found on Honda's own website 
Highbrow Slick fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Mar 5, 2015 |
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Mar 5, 2015 03:51
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Yeah, PZEV warranty is actually 15 years :P https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partial_zero-emissions_vehicle Whether or not that applies to the battery I don't know. See the part about the 10 year warranty for the traction battery, which in this case states PLUG-IN hybrid vehicle which that Accord is not and according to the article none of those actually exist. This of course is a Wikipedia article and I presume you've done your own research. Also hybrid is a separate trim from EX and LX, also isn't it a V6 hybrid?
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Mar 5, 2015 04:38
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Does anybody know any aftermarket floormats that aren't complete garbage? Last one gave me a solid year of service before the carpetting by my heel gave way and exposed plastic, which then just collected water when it was wet out and iced up in winter. Replacement one won't stay in place at all, to the point where I redlined the engine while shifting. the plastic nubs seem shallow as gently caress.
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Mar 5, 2015 05:19
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I believe Weathertech are generally cited as the best brand out there but haven't tried them myself.
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Mar 5, 2015 05:20
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kastein posted:I believe Weathertech are generally cited as the best brand out there but haven't tried them myself. They're great, but drat they cost a lot.
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Mar 5, 2015 05:21
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I need help in locating where my horn is on my car. I have tried Googling without much success as all the image diagrams I come across are not for my car / year model. I am attempting to figure out why my horn isn't working. The fuse relay is still clicking and the 15A fuse does not look like it is blown, but I have a multimeter coming in on Friday to make sure. Last thing I can think of is the connections to the actual horn is loose. I have a 2012 Ford Focus SE. tl;dr - I need help finding out where my horn is, tried Googling to no avail.
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Mar 5, 2015 05:29
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Etrips posted:I need help in locating where my horn is on my car. I have tried Googling without much success as all the image diagrams I come across are not for my car / year model. I am attempting to figure out why my horn isn't working. The fuse relay is still clicking and the 15A fuse does not look like it is blown, but I have a multimeter coming in on Friday to make sure. Last thing I can think of is the connections to the actual horn is loose. Engine bay, I think newer cars tend to mount them in the area between the grill and the radiator, but to be honest I've never had to find one. Could be your steering wheel as well, that's what went wrong on mine. Got some great looks when my horn started blaring every time I had to turn or change lanes.
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Mar 5, 2015 05:33
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Etrips posted:tl;dr - I need help finding out where my horn is, tried Googling to no avail. Did you check your steering wheel?  Maybe this helps. (if not, I don't know what to say)  
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Mar 5, 2015 05:44
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That's a MkI Focus, the 2012 is a MkIII. Looking at GIS results looks like it might be tucked up in front of one of the front wheels...?
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Mar 5, 2015 06:07
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1500quidporsche posted:Engine bay, I think newer cars tend to mount them in the area between the grill and the radiator, but to be honest I've never had to find one. Would it still be my steering wheel if my alarm that normally chirps my horn doesn't work? Jakcson posted:Did you check your steering wheel? That is an older model, not sure if it is in the same place or not. Will have to check it out when there is actual sunlight.
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Mar 5, 2015 06:10
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CharlesM posted:Yeah, PZEV warranty is actually 15 years :P Yeah I noticed that even the Honda site says 15 years which is a crazy long time. Even the ARB rep on the phone said 10. The battery most certainly qualifies as an emissions component, and although the car is a V6 it definitely is a PZEV. It's just a little jarring that there seems to be little awareness about these warranties, and that Honda was almost aggressively oblivious to the ARB regulations. If I had not read up on it and known to contact ARB, escalate the issue to get a case number from Honda & file a warranty complaint, the car would have essentially been the driving dead.
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Mar 5, 2015 06:14
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Can Ford dealerships look up the key cuts for a car based on the VIN? I need to get more copies of the key to my zx2, but they only key I have for it is a beat up non-original.
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Mar 5, 2015 06:54
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Highbrow Slick posted:Yeah I noticed that even the Honda site says 15 years which is a crazy long time. Even the ARB rep on the phone said 10. The battery most certainly qualifies as an emissions component, and although the car is a V6 it definitely is a PZEV. It's just a little jarring that there seems to be little awareness about these warranties, and that Honda was almost aggressively oblivious to the ARB regulations. If I had not read up on it and known to contact ARB, escalate the issue to get a case number from Honda & file a warranty complaint, the car would have essentially been the driving dead. I don't see any indication the 2005 Hybrid is a PZEV vehicle (the 2006, however, is apparently AT-PZEV). There should be a sticker on the underside of your hood with emission information. A PZEV vehicle will have a zero-loss evaporative emissions system (EVAP). I'll have to go look at my car to see what it says to give you an example. Whether the battery is considered an emission component is up to the ARB. I don't think the car would be driving dead; it has a 240ish horsepower V6 engine in it. It was marketed as the top of the line performance version rather than an economy version. See what the Accord hybrid forums say about having a dead IMA battery; on the Civic and Insight you can get by without one but the Accord system is different from those and didn't sell well so there isn't that much info about it. Edit: Also the CARB is notoriously lovely. At one point it was being run by a diploma mill person. Maybe it still is. Sacramento didn't seem to see the problem with it. I don't live in California anymore so haven't kept up. It wouldn't surprise me to hear manufacturers or at least local warranty reps may try and play the not understanding the emission warranty game. Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 07:10 on Mar 5, 2015 |
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Mar 5, 2015 07:05
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Can Ford dealerships look up the key cuts for a car based on the VIN? I need to get more copies of the key to my zx2, but they only key I have for it is a beat up non-original.  the first time one said "Oh, yeah, that's a 123ABC" and cut it from memory after I showed him my original.Besides, if the worn one you have works in the locks, so would a copy of exactly what it looks like currently, wear and all.
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Mar 5, 2015 08:08
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Can Ford dealerships look up the key cuts for a car based on the VIN? I need to get more copies of the key to my zx2, but they only key I have for it is a beat up non-original. Might vary from dealer to dealer but yes, most should be able to cut a key based on the VIN. I got my brother a replacement key for his Focus (after he dropped his keyring and ran it over with a lawnmower) from a Ford dealer that was offering 20% all parts on another forum by giving the parts guy his VIN. You might have to pay them or a locksmith to program it to your car though, IIRC Ford's PATS from that era requires you have two keys to add more to the system.
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Mar 5, 2015 15:47
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How can I get my car unstuck? It's a Hyundai Elantra. Here in Pittsburgh, we've recently had a cycle of freeze/thaw. I park in a gravel parking spot behind my house. The snow/ice melted under my tires and froze. When I put it in reverse, both tires just spin on the ice and the car doesn't move. I tried kitty litter, which just made a giant mess. I tried some rubber mats we had, and they just slid under the car and shot out at the fence. I just wanted to see if anybody had any tricks before I cave and call AAA.
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Mar 5, 2015 17:11
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ZentraediElite posted:I just wanted to see if anybody had any tricks before I cave and call AAA. Rock salt, then kitty litter? That might give the kitty litter newly-melted holes to grab on to rather than just flinging it around
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Mar 5, 2015 17:17
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Are the rear tires frozen in place? Usually you can get some sort of movement out of the car but if its not moving at all I'm inclined to think something is holding it in place.
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Mar 5, 2015 17:17
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ZentraediElite posted:How can I get my car unstuck? It's a Hyundai Elantra. Hot water to melt the ice? Hit the gravel hard with a hammer and break the ice?
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Mar 5, 2015 17:19
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The rear tires are free, the problem is that I probably spun my tires too much and just made really smooth ice bowls under the tires. Unfortunately I never bought any ice melt/rock salt this winter, and since the season is basically through nobody has any. I think I will try pouring hot water on it this evening when I get home from work.
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Mar 5, 2015 17:21
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Shift into the highest gear the transmission will allow you to select from a stop and push the gas pedal like there's a newborn puppy under your foot.
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Mar 5, 2015 17:24
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Geoj posted:Shift into the highest gear the transmission will allow you to select from a stop and push the gas pedal like it's a newborn puppy under your foot. Not going to help if he has to reverse out. I'd honestly just keep feeding gravel under the tires till it lifts the car out.
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Mar 5, 2015 17:26
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If you have a bicycle pump for once you get out, you can probably get a lot more grip if you let out some air from the tires - give it more surface area to grip to get unstuck, just obviously don't drive like that or let it get completely flat
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Mar 5, 2015 17:34
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1500quidporsche posted:Not going to help if he has to reverse out. Depends, if he has space to roll forward it could get him out of the ruts his tires carved into the ice. Then drop into reverse and back out using momentum to not get stuck in the ruts again.
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Mar 5, 2015 17:38
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Highbrow Slick posted:The folks I've talked to over the phone at Honda say things like "this vehicle was built to comply with federal emissions standards, not California standards," Where was the car sold new? That's what will really impact this more than anything else. If it was sold in a non-CARB state and then moved to CA later on, I don't think the warranty magically extends. For a reference point, Toyota gave my friend zero trouble when his Prius HV battery crapped out a month before the 8-year warranty (non-CARB state) ran out.
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Mar 5, 2015 17:38
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Getting a car out of ice: have people help push.InitialDave posted:You likely don't even need to go to the dealer. In my experience, well practiced key cutters can often know what a key should be based on looking at it, which made me go Depends. If the guide slots/keyways that keep the key centered in the hole are also worn, or you have to shake the key to get the door to open, often a new copy of the old key won't work. Fifth generation faxed mimeographed keys suck. Get one new key at the dealer or a locksmith, bring it directly to home depot, have it copied 3 times. Two rubber handles, one flat metal. Flat metal goes in your wallet in case you lose your keys, one rubber on the keyring, one on the spare keyring, newly minted original goes in your files with the title. As for well experienced key cutters doing it by sight... from my time as a campus prankster, I can look at a Best SFIC key and read the code off by sight as long as it's an A4 bitting system (21 thou per bitting depth), if it's A2 (12.5 thou separation) it's too close to read reliably. 
kastein fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Mar 5, 2015 |
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Mar 5, 2015 17:41
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Geoj posted:Depends, if he has space to roll forward it could get him out of the ruts his tires carved into the ice. Then drop into reverse and back out using momentum to not get stuck in the ruts again. Tried that. Usually works but couldn't get enough forward momentum to get out of the ice to then drive myself backwards over it.
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Mar 5, 2015 17:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:Where was the car sold new? That's what will really impact this more than anything else. If it was sold in a non-CARB state and then moved to CA later on, I don't think the warranty magically extends. That was a concern of mine, but honda confirmed it was originally sold in California. Supposed to hear from the case manager today or tomorrow, expecting to be told the vin isn't covered and report that to ARB. I've heard that Toyota is much more consumer friendly with replacements. All anecdotal though.
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Mar 5, 2015 18:26
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Geoj posted:Might vary from dealer to dealer but yes, most should be able to cut a key based on the VIN. I got my brother a replacement key for his Focus (after he dropped his keyring and ran it over with a lawnmower) from a Ford dealer that was offering 20% all parts on another forum by giving the parts guy his VIN. For reference, the dealer charges about $30 for the key and cutting, and $90 to program it if you only have one (chipped) key currently. Once you have two keys, you can program your own, or they do it as part of the $30 or something. I just had to have a second one made for my wife's car. Which, as it turns out, was likely the Valet key, since it won't open the trunk. Sigh.
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Mar 5, 2015 20:20
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Pretty sure my rear diff gear set grenaded itself on my 1999 Ford Ranger 2.5L RWD. It has the open 7.5" 4.10 ratio rear diff. I can't seem to find the parts listed on Autozone/Advance Auto. The work to replace it does seem pretty straight forward though. Any suggestions? I know the truck isn't worth much but with the other recent work and maintenance (battery, tires , rear shackles) I've done I would like to keep it running if I could do so on the cheap. Maybe I'm just searching for the wrong term? Drunk Pledge Driver fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Mar 5, 2015 |
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Mar 5, 2015 22:02
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Junkyard axle swap.
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Mar 5, 2015 22:07
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Slavvy posted:Junkyard axle swap. Is it less work to just swap the whole axle?
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Mar 5, 2015 22:08
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99% of the time, yes. Swapping the entire axle is extremely simple and can be done in a few hours in your driveway, with a jack + stands and basic tools. Rebuilding the diff involves semi-specialised tools and workshop expertise.
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Mar 5, 2015 22:17
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Drunk Pledge Driver posted:Is it less work to just swap the whole axle? For the whole axle It's a matter of unbolting the driveshaft, shocks, springs, brake lines and any sensors; installation is the reverse of removal. Just replacing the diff gears requires draining the diff, unbolting the driveshaft, breaking the pinion nut loose, pulling the axles (which usually involves partially disassembling the brakes), unbolting the carrier, installing the new carrier, checking side clearance, installing the new pinion, checking backlash and pinion depth, swapping out shims, checking again, tightening a crush sleeve (I've broken numerous breaker bars doing this step)... There's a reason nobody sets up diffs unless it's an old rare unit or for a performance application. Just swap the axle.
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Mar 5, 2015 22:24
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Fucknag posted:For the whole axle It's a matter of unbolting the driveshaft, shocks, springs, brake lines and any sensors; installation is the reverse of removal. Cool. I'll look into that. Just put a search in with a local junk yard. Swapping an LSD unit wouldn't be any extra work right? Oh looks like it would probably cost me just about the same to swap to the 8.8 and adding an LSD probably wouldn't cost any more. Drunk Pledge Driver fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Mar 5, 2015 |
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Mar 5, 2015 22:30
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Yeah just drop an 8.8 in and forget about it. If you can weld, get one from a 96-01 Explorer with axle code 42 (4.10 open) or D2 (4.10 limited slip) on the drivers door barcode sticker, they have 31 spline shafts and discs stock. Otherwise, get one from a similar year Ranger with the right axle code/ratio and drop it in. All you need is brake fluid, diff fluid (change it while it's out), RTV, new U-bolts, and a handful of tools. Expect to spend 150-200 on the new rear at the yard. Explorer 8.8 swap: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Explorer8_8.shtml General Ranger/Explorer 8.8 info: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Ford-8_8-axle.shtml If you haven't already, sign up for an account on TheRangerStation, they may be more backward and hillrod than we are here but I have found a LOT of very informative threads there while researching repairs for my dad's ranger.
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Mar 6, 2015 00:11
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Gotten pretty good advice from SA before, so I'm going to try this here. I have a 2005 GMC Envoy that's been having battery issues on and off. Every few months it won't start and I will have to jump it. This last time I used a small jumper box, but I hooked it to the side of the fuse box instead of the battery and the car will start now, but the entire dashboard is dark. Speedometer works along with the other gauges. The small panel that has the odometer and tells you how far you can go on a tank also works. The lights inside of the car, the windows and all the lights on the radio and A/C are all off. Oddly enough the the cigarette lighter will charge phones and the like. All of the headlights (high and low) and the brake and back lights work. Other random things not working: -Power windows -Power locks -Power seat controls -Sunroof controls I've pulled multiple fuses that could be associated with the problem and none of them seem to be burned out and I've looked around online for what the problem might be. I also have a picture of the spot where I put the jumper cables. They weren't crossed or anything, but I have since found out that you aren't supposed to jump this here from someone on Reddit (who mysteriously vanished after a few questions). Here's a picture of where I hooked the cables up: http://i.imgur.com/o6pKYBh.jpg
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Mar 6, 2015 00:29
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CB_Tube_Knight posted:Gotten pretty good advice from SA before, so I'm going to try this here. You done hosed up. Don't pull fuses you think could be associated with the problem. Pull every single fuse in the car. There will be another fusebox in the cabin somewhere that deals with interior stuff (usually behind a kick panel) and I'll bet at least one fuse in there is blown. All of the stuff you've listed as not working is controlled by a body control module and you've probably blown the fuse(s) protecting this. Hopefully.
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Mar 6, 2015 00:40
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Icy car update: AAA guy came and helped push while I floored it in reverse and we ultimately got it outta the ruts I'd made.
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Mar 6, 2015 04:02
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1987 Lada Niva. I've been reading a certain thread on here which made me doubt my decision to replace the mechanical fan which was missing it's shroud with a couple of Davies Craig-like OEM fans with a thermo switch. The OEM mech fan wasn't all that big to be honest. The two fans I substituted are set up to blow through and fit the radiator cutout neatly. I think there's old pics in my project thread. Anyway one of the reasons I did this was for low speed / low rev cooling because it is a 4x4 plus they are known for having borderline cooling when worked hard at low speeds. The reduction in parasitic drag is also noticeable when cruising. Probably because it doesn't have a whole pile of horses to work with. It's radiator is pretty shagged and needs to be replaced anyway, but I just want to make sure that I didn't make a stupid move.
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Mar 6, 2015 04:48
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