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Safety Dance posted:
It should be pointed at the hinge the rear gate swings on to latch correctly, if I'm thinking of things in the right way.
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Mar 3, 2015 04:02
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Quite A Tool posted:It looks like it's hanging down to me. Does it wiggle around? I don't know if those just bolt on or what. It's solidly attached. I don't think it's hanging down at all; that might be an artifact of the picture. EightBit posted:It should be pointed at the hinge the rear gate swings on to latch correctly, if I'm thinking of things in the right way. Now that you mention it, it's pointed almost exactly at the hinge. It hasn't given me any problems, so I'm probably worrying about it prematurely.
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Mar 3, 2015 04:06
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If you have an oversize tire hanging on the gate, it will have issues latching correctly. Close it harder/with your hand still pushing on the gate when it contacts or get a rear bumper with a tire carrier. So, my 2000 4.0 has large metal chunks in the oil pan. I haven't pulled the head yet to determine the extent of the damage, but it might be a total loss. This would be a good time to build a stroker, but I don't have $4000 to hand to Golen et al, just $3000; I'd get more satisfaction doing most of the actual building myself. I'll have to do the worst part, which is wrangling the old mess out and putting a new one in, regardless. Any Jeep goons have experience making a stroker? I'd like to hit 9.3:1 CR or so, I'm not afraid to run premium gas.
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Mar 3, 2015 06:59
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I finally got a nice day to try and shoo out the electrical gremlins in my yj. I got the ignition wiring re-crimped and removed the old solder connections. Still no physical damage to any of the wiring found under the hood though, which is really frustrating. I guess I'll tear apart the dash next. The CB is just spliced into the radios power supply so maybe something went wrong there. Testing question: I finally got ahold of a multimeter but I'm not really familiar with using them. Is there a way I can test for the short without having a replacement fuse link? Preferably without the battery plugged in so I don't blow up my multimeter/electrocute myself.
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Mar 3, 2015 07:32
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kastein posted:I'd jbweld the new one in, quite honestly. Make sure you clean the surfaces to bare metal, no need to grind away at it but make sure it's free of rust. Pitting is fine. Yeah, this is probably going to be my cheap option. I've been thinking back on when I replaced the plugs, and the kit I got from RockAuto had 1/5 incorrectly sized or for a different block etc. I took one of the 4/5 accurate plugs down to OReillys, and they sold me one to match. I won't know for sure until I retrieve the busted-out plug from its lurking place, but I bet it's the OReilly plug - IIRC it had a different number/finish on it so I should be able to easily tell if I got what I paid for at .99c. When you say jbweld, do you mean reinforce the plugs' circumference neatly like a faux-weld, or essentially fill them over flush with the block and go way overkill? FreelanceSocialist posted:I think you'd be better off getting a personal loan and buying a used, better jeep... I probably phrased that poorly - I use the credit card for points and would pay it off in full the next billing cycle. I've got the whole drat XJ set up just how I want it re: lift/suspension and have done a bunch of other tedious poo poo to set it up for my purpose, so although it's bordering on sunk-cost fallacy I really am not in the mood to abandon it at this point. I just put new tires on it and gave it a trail test last weekend - it chewed up whatever I pointed it at. If I was Kastein and was comfortable with electronic re-wiring I'd grab a lower-milage HO engine to swap in; unfortunately all the RENIX engines I've seen are 170,000+. The idea of a pre-rebuilt stock block appeals to me from a time/cost/peace of mind aspect. I've never taken out a loan for a car (especially a "fun" project type deal) so as much as I'd like to get a used JK Rubicon gently caress that. Ken: assuming I replace the plug(s) again, and redo the head gasket/check valvetrain, would all that be significantly easier/worth it to pull out the engine? This would give me room to extract the sheared-off rear exhaust manifold stud I discovered and ignored last time, check the back expansion plugs which are of unknown quality, etc.
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Mar 3, 2015 07:53
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I have an XJ with some rocker panel rot, and I was wondering if there's anyone with any better ideas that I have. It looks like this: Basically from what I've found, I have to cut all the rusty stuff out and weld in a new panel. The new panels aren't too expensive, but I've hardly ever welded before. I had to weld a tiny bit for a class in college, but it wasn't really enough to count. I also don't have a welder. I was looking at the harbor freight 110V welder, and I think it would do this job - would that be a stupid purchase? The only other thing I can think of that I would weld would be some camber adjusters for the rear of my E30. I've read that the HF welder doesn't do too terrible with relatively thin metal like this, and some name-brand welding wire. I would do some practice welding first before tackling this, obviously. Then I just cut out the rot with a dremel, wire wheel the inside (praying it isn't too bad in there), POR-15 the inside, and then weld on the new stuff. For repainting, I'm not exactly sure how to tackle that, either. I was thinking bed liner on the bottom, but it goes up high enough that I would have to bed line up to the trim all around the vehicle. I could buy some of the OEM color in a spray can, but would that really match? My XJ isn't exactly a show car, but I don't want it to look too hacked together. I don't have much body work experience, but I don't mind putting in some time and effort to make it look better and stop this rot. I don't do any serious off roading, just trails and stuff, so I don't want to weld in any 2x6 rock sliders or anything, I just want to keep my XJ from succumbing to cancer.
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Mar 3, 2015 16:16
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Ok rocker dude. I've done two cherokees now and you will need some sheet metal, welder, a grinder, wirewheel, and some paint. Here are the pics of what I've done. 1999 XJ I owned with slight holes.  When you start cutting it gets worse.      2000XJ for a coworker with zero dollars:     And I had never welded before and this was my first patch job:  Cherokee rockers are REALLY easy since you don't have complex curves. Make sure you seal the outside good, and get some eastwood internal frame coating to spray inside the rockers when your done. I go through the trim holes for the plastic trim near the floor. For Mig setups, we run a Real Gear 140 which is a chinese copy of something else. You can find them for around 300. If you want to go more expensive, you can do hobart fluxcore only for 350 or the hobart 140 for 470 if chinese poo poo isn't your thing.
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Mar 3, 2015 17:47
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Anyone know what this mystery retaining fork is? Found it sitting down in the passenger side engine bracket.
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Mar 3, 2015 21:36
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Looks like a distributor bracket.
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Mar 3, 2015 21:39
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Confirmed. Distributor Bracket.
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Mar 3, 2015 21:54
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Thanks, that would make sense since I was just loving with it. It has its own little fork already though and I don't even remember taking this one off, but that was when it was getting dark so I probably never even saw it. Does it just sit down on top over the one on the distributor?
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Mar 3, 2015 21:56
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 Looks like that when installed.
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Mar 3, 2015 22:02
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Awesome, thank you. I'll put that little bastard back on while waiting for my paint to dry. 
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Mar 3, 2015 22:06
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Yep. Only other thing that looks like that on an XJ is the VSS hold down clamp, and it's a little different and on the other side of the drivetrain 3 feet back. I'd be downright impressed if you got yours to migrate to the passenger engine mount area by accident.
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Mar 3, 2015 23:25
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Okay so I found a two-door, five-speed 97 XJ with 120,000 miles for $2750. This is one of those "buy it even if you don't really need it" things, right
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Mar 4, 2015 08:54
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Yes
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Mar 4, 2015 14:49
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Yeah. Especially if it's 4.0L, 4x4, and relatively rust free. If it's 2/3, still yes. If it's 1/3, if you feel like it.
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Mar 4, 2015 15:03
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Yeah, interior looks dirty but intact and from the pics he sent the only thing wrong with the exterior is a missing rear bumper trim piece. Rockers look clean and floorpans look totally intact, so my steam cleaner and and spare trim from my totaled 2001 should take care of the only problems there. He asked me if I was coming to get it because he said people have been calling and texting him about it non-stop, even at like 3AM while he was trying to sleep
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Mar 4, 2015 20:28
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"Next-gen Jeep Wrangler to get 8-speed automatic and 3.0-liter EcoDiesel": http://www.autoblog.com/2015/03/05/next-generation-jeep-wrangler-diesel-eight-speed-gearbox/ Cautiously optimistic about the new Wrangler! I wonder if the 8 speed can have some super low gears for crawling and high gears for good mileage.
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Mar 5, 2015 22:48
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Don't see why not - and it then brings up an interesting question on whether or not a true low-range is needed in the transfer case anymore, or if it can just be a simpler unit that either acts as some variant on 2WD/AWD or can be locked for proper 4WD.
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Mar 6, 2015 00:07
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mod sassinator posted:"Next-gen Jeep Wrangler to get 8-speed automatic and 3.0-liter EcoDiesel": http://www.autoblog.com/2015/03/05/next-generation-jeep-wrangler-diesel-eight-speed-gearbox/ If that's true, I'm sold. I just have to decide on going hog wild with the WJ or selling it when the time comes.
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Mar 6, 2015 00:21
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mod sassinator posted:"Next-gen Jeep Wrangler to get 8-speed automatic and 3.0-liter EcoDiesel": http://www.autoblog.com/2015/03/05/next-generation-jeep-wrangler-diesel-eight-speed-gearbox/ I want three pedals and a big stick in the middle of my Jeep 
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Mar 6, 2015 05:04
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EightBit posted:I want three pedals and a big stick in the middle of my Jeep Gimme 3 pedals and I'd probably buy one. automatic? gently caress that bullshit. I can't trust a chryco box, or a ZF box with chrycos programmers at the helm.
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Mar 6, 2015 05:08
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Does that engine mate to any manual transmissions  ?Anyway, are there any potential pitfalls to slapping a 4.0 from a 2004 Wrangler into a 2000 Wrangler? I found a potential craigslist organ donor that I might be able to build into a stroker, just wondering if I should think twice before grabbing it for parts.
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Mar 6, 2015 05:15
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I think that diesel is pushing close to 400 ft lbs of torque so short of a Tremec 6 speed from a Challenger I doubt there is much in the Chrysler parts bin to support it. Even if it's sacrilege I like my Jeep with an auto. Out in the mountains of the Pacific Northwest the last thing I want to do is gently caress around with a clutch and manual on a steep hill with a drop off a few thousand feet down a cliff.
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Mar 6, 2015 06:05
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mod sassinator posted:Even if it's sacrilege I like my Jeep with an auto. Out in the mountains of the Pacific Northwest the last thing I want to do is gently caress around with a clutch and manual on a steep hill with a drop off a few thousand feet down a cliff. (The 1% is to make sure the auto-lockers are locked up.)
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Mar 6, 2015 06:09
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Lots of people use an auto to make up for having the wrong gears in the differentials/transfer case. I have relatively small feet and I can still three-foot when I need to, plus, I don't want sudden shifting going on when I'm crawling up a steep hill. I don't have to worry about overheating a transmission in the crazy South Texas heat, either (I've been wheeling in 105F 90+% humidity).
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Mar 6, 2015 06:32
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EightBit posted:I don't want sudden shifting going on when I'm crawling up a steep hill. I don't have to worry about overheating a transmission in the crazy South Texas heat, either (I've been wheeling in 105F 90+% humidity). I wheel with an auto on rocks and in socal deserts (Death Valley, Joshua Tree kinda areas where temps exceed 120f). Overheating has never been a problem for me, and the auto won't change gear on you because you should be using the semi-auto mode when on rocks and inclines anyway (although Ive done it in auto a lot and not had a problem too). Autos are pretty great for Jeeps. I'm not saying Jeep should only make autos if the customers clearly want manuals, but it is not like you're really being downgraded. [e] 2012+ JKs have a transmission cooler in the grill tuna fucked around with this message at 07:07 on Mar 6, 2015 |
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Mar 6, 2015 06:56
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Yeah, I have a tranny cooler and use the semi-auto mode - don't have those issues either.
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Mar 6, 2015 07:28
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My 2008 has a trans cooler from the factory (tow package?) But I also added an extra cooler. I feel it does too good a job in the winter though. As for autos... I don't see many mega mud trucks or rock bouncers using manuals. All about preference I suppose but I've done a ton of both and will choose auto every time in the rocks.
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Mar 6, 2015 09:12
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I hate crawling with my stick.  HATE HATE. If there's one thing I'd do over buying a Jeep it would be to get an Auto. Of course, my 3.21 gears don't help either, hoping to switch them out to 4.10s or 4.88s this year so that should help a little and if the gods align find a rubi transfer case as well.
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Mar 6, 2015 12:25
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mod sassinator posted:Even if it's sacrilege I like my Jeep with an auto. Out in the mountains of the Pacific Northwest the last thing I want to do is gently caress around with a clutch and manual on a steep hill with a drop off a few thousand feet down a cliff. Amen. I was a die-hard manual driver until I bought my auto XJ and started offroading. I'm not interested in impressing anyone - I just need to go from A to B and not die. I save my heel-toe fancy-schmancy shifting urges for track days in a more appropriate vehicle.
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Mar 6, 2015 17:38
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I practically learned to wheel in autos and for the first 4 or 5 years that I owned my wrangler it was an auto. It's just more fun to me with a stick. It's not hard either - put it in 4LO and go. I don't have crazy gears either- just a regular NP231 and 3.55 diffs. I don't need to impress anyone either. I just like it more. Then again- the vast majority of the time that I drive my YJ it's on pavement. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Mar 6, 2015 |
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Mar 6, 2015 18:34
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EightBit posted:Does that engine mate to any manual transmissions Should fit, and as long as no one's blown up the head yet it should be a TUPY 0331. You can use WJ engines too. WJs and 2000-up TJs share a block casting, XJs/MJs/ZJs/4.0 YJs and 99-down TJs have a different one. If you are building a stroker, I would get a WJ motor with knocks for under 100 as long as the bores are OK and the block isn't windowed. As for auto vs manual I started with autos and moved to manuals. Deep gearing is key with manuals for offroad... I've found my 3.55s somewhat limiting, but nothing the throttle won't solve.
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Mar 6, 2015 19:53
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Visor bracket saga continues! I tried turning some aluminum bar stock to a few thousandths over the inner diameter of the big hole I drilled by accident. According to the cheap calipers, I missed my target and was a few thou under. Still, I needed a vise to press this into place. I wish I had thought to take a picture of it on the lathe. I was getting this one incredibly long chip, and I love the chamfer I put on the end.  Then I stuck it in the mill and machined about .01" off the top of that block.  unnnngh, it looks so good! I drilled the holes out properly this time (not pictured). I just need to get a springy clip at the auto parts store now, and it should be good to go back together! Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Mar 6, 2015 |
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Mar 6, 2015 20:40
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I can definitely appreciate this, but won't this be like a 3-day $80 visor mount?
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Mar 7, 2015 01:16
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My time is free since I'm enjoying getting practice on the mill and the lathe. The aluminum is $0.50/lb. So, yes, it's a ridiculous amount of effort considering that I could buy a nicer version for $20 on ebay, but I'm having fun and learning.
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Mar 7, 2015 01:52
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tuna posted:[e] 2012+ JKs have a transmission cooler in the grill Also a Mercedes-designed auto, not Chrysler.
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Mar 7, 2015 04:42
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Godholio posted:Also a Mercedes-designed auto, not Chrysler. I feel like I've suddenly moved up in the world.
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Mar 7, 2015 06:22
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So on Monday my wife is trading her escape for her mothers 2000 WJ. First thing it needs is new tires because the ones on it are dryrotted and worn funny. While its getting new tires im going to have a chance to look at the suspension. Could someone recommend a decent set of tires in this size? Money is not the issue its there are so many mediocre brands for the size it has. 245/70r16
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Mar 8, 2015 19:48
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