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berzerkmonkey posted:Oh yeah - sorry. I know the skeletons I just had done were just sculpted onto a wire armature. I sent an email to Bob and ask him for a photo of what he uses and any tips he's willing to give. I'll let you know when I hear back from him. Awesome, thanks.
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Mar 5, 2015 15:40
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Slimnoid posted:Short of using bronze paint, just brown washes with maybe a wash of black on top until it's dark enough to your liking. I did bronze paint (Vallejo game color bronze) and then Agrax Earthshade. What would you suggest to highlight with? I was using gold, but that makes it look like gold and not bronze. The link from a few posts back suggested a brass color, but Vallejo game color brass looks very close to bronze and I don't think it would stand out.
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Mar 5, 2015 16:02
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Medium Style posted:I did bronze paint (Vallejo game color bronze) and then Agrax Earthshade. What would you suggest to highlight with? I was using gold, but that makes it look like gold and not bronze. The link from a few posts back suggested a brass color, but Vallejo game color brass looks very close to bronze and I don't think it would stand out. You could try highlighting gold, then silver, and doing a brown wash followed by black wash. It should bring the color down enough to look bronze-ish.
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Mar 5, 2015 16:13
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Slightly better image. also could someone give me tips on highlighting with gold? I am having a tough time with the new GW paints, they seem way too "gummy"?
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Mar 5, 2015 16:42
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mentos posted:I am adding Rough riders to a Vostroyan army, and since Attillans are discontinued I opted for DRK with a similar palette. I think they fit thematically but look a little off, since GW miniatures have such exaggerated proportions. BTW I also gloss all my minis. Apologies for the pic quality, I tried converting mine by adding poofy hats! Not sure it was worth the price tag, though...  http://s250.photobucket.com/user/Crabstuffed/library/Rough%20Riders
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Mar 5, 2015 18:45
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Wow, I really like those! I have been thinking about swapping heads with extra sergeants I have lying around, but the price tag on the Forge world minis makes me hesitant to convert them. Seeing the end product helps a lot.
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Mar 5, 2015 19:02
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mentos posted:I am adding Rough riders to a Vostroyan army, and since Attillans are discontinued I opted for DRK with a similar palette. I think they fit thematically but look a little off, since GW miniatures have such exaggerated proportions. BTW I also gloss all my minis. Those look great, but if you're looking to make them look a little more outlandish, perhaps a helmet crest would do the trick. One running up and down the spine of it should do well.
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Mar 5, 2015 19:42
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I painted up some old grey knights and kaldor draigo a few weeks ago and didn't post pictures. Indolent Bastard provided the bodies for these models. Enjoy the really lovely pictures!    
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Mar 5, 2015 19:55
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Fearless posted:Those look great, but if you're looking to make them look a little more outlandish, perhaps a helmet crest would do the trick. One running up and down the spine of it should do well. I like that idea, the narrative I was running in my head was that the RR had helmets and armor, etc. befitting their role, I was looking at old cuirassier images and they had crests I like. Those should be easy to add even after painting. Thanks!
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Mar 5, 2015 20:56
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In 2013 I ordered a deal off of the "All Quiet on the Martian Front" kickstarter. It's only now just finally all come in and in all honesty I got a bit carried away and ordered a bit too much. If any UK Goons want some models to try out then let me know here and I'll happily send you some stuff your way. Here is a platoon of MKIII Steam Tanks I painted up in white wash for an idea of what they are like.    
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Mar 5, 2015 21:46
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So I need a display plinth to put this dwarf bust on. I need it by like, next week so I can enter it in a contest at Adepticon. Where's a good place to order that sort of thing?
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Mar 5, 2015 21:55
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big_g posted:In 2013 I ordered a deal off of the "All Quiet on the Martian Front" kickstarter. These are cool as hell
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Mar 5, 2015 22:07
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Nebalebadingdong posted:These are cool as hell Thanks. I really just banged them out as soon as they released them to put on their official forum, hopefully to a decent table top standard.
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Mar 5, 2015 22:32
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Cross-posting from the 40k thread: VERY OLD AND BADLY-PAINTED MODELS AHEADOn a visit back home to my parents' place recently, I was goign through some boxes of old stuff and found a bunch of old minis. These range from mid/late 80s into the early 90s I think. I have vague memories of painting these. I will have been about 10-12. Don't judge. First up is a bunch of random metals I think these are made of the old "don't lick your fingers" lead casting.  The labels/dates on the base tabs are as follows: Top row: 3x Ninja (1985/86) Middle row: Harald (GW 1985) Mercenary (GW 1987) Mercenary (GW 1987) Testbed Slave (GW 1988) Timelord (GW 1987) I found a few references to 'Testbed Slave' that led me here: http://www.collecting-citadel-miniatures.com/wiki/index.php/Rogue_Trader_Adventurers,_Mercenaries_%26_Pirates_-_Collectors_Guide Bottom row Some kind of techmarine on a jetbike? An wounded marine? (He seems to be laying on his back and missing a hand) Next is a set of marines from Space Crusade Apparently I was in to the Terracotta-Red Angels when I was a kid... (In digging these out, I learnt that those bayonets on the bolters are drat sharp when you grab them without realising)   I've also got a bunch of old-school green plastic orks and gretchin that I'll get pictures of at some point too. As well as some old White Dwarf issues back when it was the best thing ever. I think one of them is the Space Crusade launch issue, so that would be 1990?
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Mar 5, 2015 22:51
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I got the reaper master series paints from the Bones II kickstarter and a couple of the paints are...chunky? Despite furious shaking and needle-poking, I can't get them to squirt out of the dropper tip. When I open them up, the paint has the consistency of a milkshake; kind of grainy. I'm not sure if some colors just tend to separate from one another or if they're dried up duds. One of the colors is "Elf Flesh" and the other I can't remember the name of but it's a stony grey color.
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Mar 5, 2015 23:00
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Pete Zah posted:I got the reaper master series paints from the Bones II kickstarter and a couple of the paints are...chunky? Despite furious shaking and needle-poking, I can't get them to squirt out of the dropper tip. When I open them up, the paint has the consistency of a milkshake; kind of grainy. I'm not sure if some colors just tend to separate from one another or if they're dried up duds. I got like 80 of their paints in a trade some months back and that was the case with a few of them. My answer to that was to get a coffee stirrer or the end of a paint brush or whatever and stir the poo poo out of the paint, adding a drop or two of thinner in there (50/50 mix of water and Pledge Floor Wax with Future Shine, but water will work in a pinch). Sticking a drill bit in from the top to break the plastic seal also helps, because the stopper end of their bottles will clog up like mad. Stick an agitator in there too. Glass bead, plastic BBs, or the metal tabs from pewter miniatures work. Shake them like mad afterwards, and before each use, and you should be fine. If you don't want to go through the effort you can always contact Reaper and tell them you got some bad paints, they should be able to work things out with you on that.
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Mar 5, 2015 23:33
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Slimnoid posted:I got like 80 of their paints in a trade some months back and that was the case with a few of them. My answer to that was to get a coffee stirrer or the end of a paint brush or whatever and stir the poo poo out of the paint, adding a drop or two of thinner in there (50/50 mix of water and Pledge Floor Wax with Future Shine, but water will work in a pinch). Sticking a drill bit in from the top to break the plastic seal also helps, because the stopper end of their bottles will clog up like mad. Thanks for the tips. I'm a little wary of adding water to the bottle since Bones don't do well with water, though, I probably wouldn't prime anything with elf flesh.
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Mar 6, 2015 00:01
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Pete Zah posted:Thanks for the tips. I'm a little wary of adding water to the bottle since Bones don't do well with water, though, I probably wouldn't prime anything with elf flesh. Reaper paints are acrylic, aka water based, so they have water in there already. Thinning the paint down with water is the basics of painting and won't affect Bones very much at all--plus, a drop or two isn't going to do anything other than help mix things up inside the bottle better.
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Mar 6, 2015 00:08
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My main frustration with Reaper paints (which I have otherwise liked) is how much those droppers get fouled up. I have had to pop the top off several bottles and clean the sludge out of the dropper part to get things moving. It's a little annoying because Vallejo's droppers are not nearly as bad but I really like the triad system Reaper has and some of their colours so I'm gritting my teeth.
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Mar 6, 2015 00:15
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evenworse username posted:My main frustration with Reaper paints (which I have otherwise liked) is how much those droppers get fouled up. I have had to pop the top off several bottles and clean the sludge out of the dropper part to get things moving. The best advice I've seen for that is to just stick a drill bit in from the top and break the stupid plastic tab thing. It caused nothing but issues.
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Mar 6, 2015 00:20
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Last night I got frustrated while painting the shaded panels my second Hornet and instead of just stopping I got angry and continued on. Now I have a pretty nice shade and a whole bunch of awkward lumps that look terrible close up. Here's hoping the coat of gloss and twin coats of matte varnish help hide that. Goddamnit 
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Mar 6, 2015 00:27
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Yeah I just poke the stupid clog guard out. It's dumb. I wanna give a shout out to the Badger Patriot crew because my 155 (siphon feed Patriot) is a loving champ.
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Mar 6, 2015 02:18
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My aunt got me a badger patriot but I was young and stupid and I'm sure it's wrecked beyond repair, if not just lost in the four moves since I got it. 
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Mar 6, 2015 02:34
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Slimnoid posted:Reaper paints are acrylic, aka water based, so they have water in there already. Thinning the paint down with water is the basics of painting and won't affect Bones very much at all This is sort of wrong, you can start having major problems with paint covering Bones evenly if you thin them down as much as you're used to. Of course, my used to may not be your used to, and I agree with you that a few drops in the entire bottle won't make much of a difference. Just don't want folks to get the wrong idea.
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Mar 6, 2015 03:14
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JoshTheStampede posted:So I need a display plinth to put this dwarf bust on. I need it by like, next week so I can enter it in a contest at Adepticon. Where's a good place to order that sort of thing? You can get wooden bases and stuff at Michael's
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Mar 6, 2015 04:37
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JoshTheStampede posted:So I need a display plinth to put this dwarf bust on. I need it by like, next week so I can enter it in a contest at Adepticon. Where's a good place to order that sort of thing? For unfinished go to Michaels, for finished look for a shop that sells trophies in your town.
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Mar 6, 2015 04:41
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mentos posted:I am adding Rough riders to a Vostroyan army, and since Attillans are discontinued I opted for DRK with a similar palette. I think they fit thematically but look a little off, since GW miniatures have such exaggerated proportions. BTW I also gloss all my minis. That looks baller as gently caress. 40k minis look amazing with a military miniatures painting style. I have a set of five of the Tallarn Roughriders, I think they look great (not their lances, though, I replaced those).  Also OOP, but Roughriders have never been a popular unit (presumably: people just charge them ahead and they die, rather than counter-charge with them) so if you go to a Local Crusty Dusty Games Shop, look for a bargain bin or a wall of dust-covered blisters. Big Willy Style posted:I painted up some old grey knights and kaldor draigo a few weeks ago and didn't post pictures. Indolent Bastard provided the bodies for these models. Enjoy the really lovely pictures! I think they look great. Both your photos and your minis are well lit, the detail is sharp, and the colors are balanced (natural light is great). The first one is the cleanest with the lining. The others also look good, could use some minor touchups on the grey. If you want them to look better, do this: 1) Download Irfanview, it's a free image editing program that is 1.81mb. That's it. You can't photoshop with it (not really) but it's my go-to for something that starts up instantly and crops, resizes, and compresses superbly. http://download.cnet.com/IrfanView/?part=dl-IrfanView 2) Open your file, select a box around the area you want to be in the photo, then hit Crtl-Y (or function-Y, I presume) to crop the photo. 3) Crtl-R to resize it. It's just not fair to show your minis at what is essentially 10x magnification. They're tiny! 350px wide seemed appropriate to me for this one. 4) Save, upload and post. 
Post 9-11 User fucked around with this message at 13:05 on Mar 6, 2015 |
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Mar 6, 2015 12:56
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Crosspost to probably a more appropriate thread.Fuegan posted:Having a crack at OSL using my airbrush because I currently suck at it. Figured I'd try it on a WIP Wraith so I could go over it if it's terrible. Photos aren't the best (first photo is under my painting light and it looks very bright) but any advice would be awesome since I've never really done this before and my airbrush work has previously consisted of "basecoat all the stuff" so any advice on needle sizes, air pressures etc for this kind of finer detail work would be greatly appreciated (I have a Sotar 20/20). Fuegan fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Mar 7, 2015 |
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Mar 7, 2015 19:27
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Did up Zahndrekh and Obyron this weekend. I have a pretty run of the mill Necron scheme but I'm generally ok with how the pair turned out. I really struggle with painting white but I tried to keep my paints thin which seemed to help when I layered it on their armor.  C/C welcome. AndyElusive fucked around with this message at 04:15 on Mar 8, 2015 |
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Mar 7, 2015 22:47
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Sorry if this has been referenced multiple times in the thread, but I'm looking for a US-based supplier of ~6mm grass fibers for basing. The only place I can find some online is from Australia and I hate to wait for 2+ weeks shipping. Also, how do you get that really cool effect of grass tufts where the inner part of the tuft is a different color green, making the tuft look more alive? I've done some uniform green tufts and they look pretty good, but I'd kill to learn that technique.
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Mar 9, 2015 05:09
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Unzip and Attack posted:Sorry if this has been referenced multiple times in the thread, but I'm looking for a US-based supplier of ~6mm grass fibers for basing. The only place I can find some online is from Australia and I hate to wait for 2+ weeks shipping. Those tufts are usually pre dyed before application. If you're in the US Scenery Express will have EVERYTHING but you should check eBay before buying to make sure there aren't better prices. They have both the loose static grasses and the premade tufts (which is how you get the effect you're talking about).
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Mar 9, 2015 06:40
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Finished painting up the Commissar for these boys; he was a really fun conversion!   
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Mar 9, 2015 22:27
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SRM posted:Finished painting up the Commissar for these boys; he was a really fun conversion! Have you considered painting the power coil on the top of the plasma pistol blue? Not crazy OSL-style stuff, but something to make it pop out a little. It just seems a bit weird not to see some sort of color there.
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Mar 9, 2015 22:35
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Slimnoid posted:Have you considered painting the power coil on the top of the plasma pistol blue? Not crazy OSL-style stuff, but something to make it pop out a little. It just seems a bit weird not to see some sort of color there.
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Mar 10, 2015 00:14
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Can anyone shed any light on this work? Who painted it? How was the effect achieved? Has this painter done anything else similar?
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Mar 10, 2015 00:26
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To which particular of the many effects involved in that are you referring?
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Mar 10, 2015 00:30
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/moongump/
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Mar 10, 2015 00:30
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Monster w21 Faces posted:Can anyone shed any light on this work? Who painted it? How was the effect achieved? Has this painter done anything else similar? If you're talking rust effects: dry pigments, thinned down to a wash-like consistency using 90% isopropyl alcohol. Apply over a glossed surface to protect the paint underneath. Thinning down paint also works, and Vallejo makes some rust washes you can purchase. The actual paint job seems pretty simple, using layers in such a way as to give the impression of peeled paint. You can accomplish this by using a sponge and dabbing paint over surfaces; this is also how you can get some realistic-looking battle damage with silver paint along the edges.
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Mar 10, 2015 00:35
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Pete Zah posted:Thanks for the tips. I'm a little wary of adding water to the bottle since Bones don't do well with water, though, I probably wouldn't prime anything with elf flesh. Slimnoid posted:Reaper paints are acrylic, aka water based, so they have water in there already. Thinning the paint down with water is the basics of painting and won't affect Bones very much at all--plus, a drop or two isn't going to do anything other than help mix things up inside the bottle better. You can also buy Matte Acrylic fluid at any art/craft store. I got a 250ml bottle for less than ten dollars. --- I finally got around to getting my current space set up for painting. Apparently, those Harbor Freight lamps ship with daylight floro bulbs so that was a nice surprise. I haven't done any significant painting since I moved last year so this is almost exciting. 
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Mar 10, 2015 05:10
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You know what's awesome about working on a drawing table with a metal pencil guard? It's a place to put your magnets.
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Mar 10, 2015 07:39
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