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1500quidporsche posted:That car sounds like a lemon. You've pretty much replaced the entire front suspension on a nine year old car. Unless you're taking it to track days there's no reason you should be going through brakes and tires like that. They weren't replaced because my theory is the dealership repair center was pants on head stupid. They replaced one strut (front left). Then they told me it wasn't that, it was the bushing, so they replaced the one bushing, by itself. Should an alignment be done at that point, or some point like that? Just asking because none was and I later found out I was really out of alignment after it started pulling way left and my tires got hosed up in about a month. Midas shop's the one that said I really should replace the lower control arms if the bushings go bad or else they'll probably just go bad again. I should probably get a new car simply because I don't need the full sedan size anymore (used to move a lot in the military, it was pretty good for that). So I guess going back to my second question, what do I need to disclose about its issues to prospective buyers? I tend to be super honest, but I think saying "I hate how it always seems to have suspension problems I can never fix" would be a bad idea.
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Mar 11, 2015 16:52
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Pander posted:They weren't replaced because my theory is the dealership repair center was pants on head stupid. They replaced one strut (front left). Then they told me it wasn't that, it was the bushing, so they replaced the one bushing, by itself. Should an alignment be done at that point, or some point like that? Just asking because none was and I later found out I was really out of alignment after it started pulling way left and my tires got hosed up in about a month. Your whole situation seems more like incompetence/poor communication that would be solved by not visiting either of those shops again and taking it to someone who will actually fix your problem.
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Mar 11, 2015 17:31
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Pander posted:Should an alignment be done at that point, or some point like that? Just asking because none was and I later found out I was really out of alignment after it started pulling way left and my tires got hosed up in about a month. Any time you do major suspension work (ie, replacing components) an alignment should be done. In addition at the bare minimum every time you replace tires (at normal wear rates) you should at least have it checked and realigned if out of spec. A nearly 10 year old car should have been realigned at least once in its lifetime.
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Mar 11, 2015 17:31
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I think a mechanic hosed me, don't know what to do. I have a '99 Camry, its pretty beat up and really showing its age but I have taken very good care of the engine and have never had a problem with it. The most glaring issue is my alignment is off-kilter so I need to keep my steering wheel slightly cocked to the left to keep the car straight, it's not a big issue and its easy to fix. I brought my car in on Monday for a standard oil change and tire rotation (they had a good deal to get this done for $50), what I didn't know is they did a whole checkup on my car. They called me and told me the basic poo poo, my tie rods are slightly messed up, my alignment is off, and the battery is at 30% capacity (which I think is utter bullshit I replaced it about 2 years ago). When I got my car back though, its almost completely undriveable. I don't know if it's because of the tie rods or the alignment but my car swerves heavily to the right now and I have to keep my steering wheel turned almost 90 degrees to the left to keep it steady, its shaky as all hell when I hit 40mph. I called them the next day and explained this to them and they gave me the expected bullshit, "Well we didn't actually touch any of that we just looked at it and blah blah your car is a piece of poo poo and old so you can't blame us, you should buy tires from us", that made me pretty livid. I told him that this was unacceptable and I'm bringing it in on Saturday to have them take a second look and fix what they did. In the meantime I'm driving the company van because I'm literally afraid to drive my car anywhere. I'm not very car-savvy so I want to have as much info as possible when I go in so I don't get talked down to again by some prick, I'm thinking when they rotated my tires they forgot to balance them... That's giving them the benefit of the doubt though, they were so unapologetic and pushy to get me to buy tires from them that I'm starting to think they did this deliberately. So what should I do on Saturday? I'm going to be loving pissed if I bring it in and they don't/refuse to fix it, I won't have a car basically.
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Mar 11, 2015 18:54
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It's impossible to diagnose something like that over the internet but I would say it has nothing to do with wheel balance, it sounds more like they didn't put the wheels on properly, or hosed with something in the steering that they shouldn't have. I don't often say this but if you're an american, lawyering up is probably the best course of action.
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Mar 11, 2015 19:01
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I would take it somewhere else to get it fixed. Don't reward them by paying them to unfuck whatever they did to it.
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Mar 11, 2015 19:07
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SperginMcBadposter posted:I would take it somewhere else to get it fixed. Don't reward them by paying them to unfuck whatever they did to it. There's no way in hell I'm paying them to un-gently caress it. I'm bringing it in so they can fix what they hosed and I'm not paying a dime.
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Mar 11, 2015 19:08
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zundfolge posted:One of those would work-thanks for reminding me of them. The cable just has to make a 90-degree turn, or else it runs into the air cleaner or the intercooler piping. You can clean the corrosion and what does it matter where the cable runs if you're only looking for the terminal? The V70 cables are pretty long and easily accessible:   Okay, maybe I just miss going to junkyards for cheap parts.
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Mar 11, 2015 19:19
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iv46vi posted:You can clean the corrosion and what does it matter where the cable runs if you're only looking for the terminal? The corrosion I'm talking about is inside the insulation because Volvo was too cheap to heat shrink the terminals. As for the terminal itself, I didn't think you could reuse crimp terminals like that. e: so I don't look blind the end that connects to the starter isn't sealed with heat shrink and that's what gets crusty. SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Mar 12, 2015 |
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Mar 11, 2015 22:16
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My car is starting to stink after highway driving. Is there any way I can distinguish whether the smell is tires, brakes, or clutch? My TOB is making noise, so I'm leaning towards clutch, but I haven't been shifting at all for the entire drive until maybe 3 minutes before I park.
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Mar 11, 2015 22:45
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Brakes and clutch smell about the same, you can narrow it down based on whether the smell is coming from the wheels or the transmission area. Tires smell different. Also - to the guy with the modulator noise issues - I forgot to mention, I think you are on the right track for sure since the noise is wideband spread across the entire FM broadcast range, that definitely eliminates overmodulation as a possibility, I'm pretty sure the modulator is junk at this point. And glad to hear you only temporarily wired it to the battery direct, I've seen car fires start that way so I figured I should mention it regardless. kastein fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Mar 11, 2015 |
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Mar 11, 2015 23:26
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Fart Pipe posted:He said it quit when he was going around a corner or something but Ill know more once I can take a look at it. It didnt have any weird problems like you described until the not running one today. Ok so I got a look at the Del Sol today and it looks like its not the main relay. Fuel pump works and the engine light turns off like its supposed to (thanks Aceofnett) but it doesnt have spark. We found 2 of the plug wires loose and the cap and rotor were in horrible condition. I guess that with no load on the coil it can destroy the coil or ignitor? I had never heard of that previous to this but one of the youtube videos for the main relay mentioned it. So we went to remove the rotor and found the screw that was supposed to be holding it on completely missing. Ended up destroying the rotor and the metal collar that holds it on to the shaft WILL NOT COME OFF like a huge oval office. So my dad is going to get a distributor from the junk yard so we at least know we'll have a known good coil/ignitor to work with. Of course I wasnt able to check if the injectors were working because I forgot my test light. So I guess my question is if that the coil/ignitor is something that would quit suddenly if the spark plugs werent connected securely? Im going back on Sunday to do some tests to see of its the crank speed sensor when I can get a reading off the injectors to see if they are firing after we put the new dizzy on. Is the crank angle sensor something known to go suddenly on Hondas? Its just a regular old D15, not the hot rod Vtec model.
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Mar 11, 2015 23:42
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Put it this way: at any given junkyard in my town, all of which are crammed with pedestrian JDM vehicles, the top three things I can almost never find are: 1. Nissan pulsar tacho 2. Toyota Distributor 3. Honda distributor They fail fairly often on neglected cars, either from abuse as you described or (more common on Toyota) from the shaft seal leaking and covering the coil and everything else in engine oil.
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Mar 12, 2015 00:24
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Slavvy posted:Put it this way: at any given junkyard in my town, all of which are crammed with pedestrian JDM vehicles, the top three things I can almost never find are: Dammit, I hope thats not the case with this junkyard. Its huge and they usually have the parts on the shelf so they dont have to pull them. That would make this simple fix thats already going sideways even more fun than it has been already.
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Mar 12, 2015 00:33
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Pander posted:I've got a 2006 Hyundai Sonata (GLS V6 3.3L) with 105k miles on it. I bought it at about 20k, and only needed typical maintenance until about 70k. Since then I've seemed to hit this cycle of problems related to anything remotely connected to the wheels/suspension. Your car had a poo poo-ton of recalls, including some for the problems you mentioned fixing with your own money: http://www.carcomplaints.com/Hyundai/Sonata/2006/recalls/ Check your car's VIN here and make sure all the recall work has been performed: https://www.hyundaiusa.com/recall/
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Mar 12, 2015 01:11
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Fart Pipe posted:Ok so I got a look at the Del Sol today and it looks like its not the main relay. Fuel pump works and the engine light turns off like its supposed to (thanks Aceofnett) but it doesnt have spark. We found 2 of the plug wires loose and the cap and rotor were in horrible condition. I guess that with no load on the coil it can destroy the coil or ignitor? I had never heard of that previous to this but one of the youtube videos for the main relay mentioned it. So we went to remove the rotor and found the screw that was supposed to be holding it on completely missing. Ended up destroying the rotor and the metal collar that holds it on to the shaft WILL NOT COME OFF like a huge oval office. So my dad is going to get a distributor from the junk yard so we at least know we'll have a known good coil/ignitor to work with. Of course I wasnt able to check if the injectors were working because I forgot my test light. I'm betting that screw backed out and got tossed around inside the distributor; probably what caused it to die. If there was no load from the loose wires, it would have been pulling 2 cylinder action long before it died. The screw backing out is actually kind of common (on Hondas) if you don't use a dab of loctite on it when you change the rotor. Usually it causes the rotor to back off just enough to stop spinning, but if it's seized on the shaft, the screw gets pulverized into conductive dust (or it creates a new exit through the cap). I'm betting once it has a new distributor on it, it'll fire right up. And being the D15, you can use a distributor from any other D15 Civic (as long as you match OBD1 or OBD2). Possibly a D16 non-VTEC distributor. The crank angle sensor is part of the oil pump assembly on OBD2 D series engines, doesn't exist on OBD1. They very rarely fail. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Mar 12, 2015 |
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Mar 12, 2015 01:30
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some texas redneck posted:I'm betting that screw backed out and got tossed around inside the distributor; probably what caused it to die. If there was no load from the loose wires, it would have been pulling 2 cylinder action long before it died. Can confirm that a D16 one works on the d15.
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Mar 12, 2015 01:38
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some texas redneck posted:I'm betting that screw backed out and got tossed around inside the distributor; probably what caused it to die. If there was no load from the loose wires, it would have been pulling 2 cylinder action long before it died. The screw was just not there at all, no remnants, no damage, just a supremely rusty hole where it should have been. There is no way that the last person that changed the cap/rotor installed the screw. This was my moms car and when she died and when we sold it to my dad it only had about 100k on it so that screw had been missing for at least 85k miles and 10 years. Got a text from my dad though and Slavvy called it, they didnt have one at the junk yard, haha. I guess a new one is only like $230 so my dads gonna get it tomorrow. Good to know about the crank angle sensor, Ill check that on Sunday but I think it might be OBD1 since its a 95, I dont know a ton about Hondas though.
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Mar 12, 2015 03:32
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EugeneJ posted:Your car had a poo poo-ton of recalls, including some for the problems you mentioned fixing with your own money: I got the corrosion recall done. The rest I'm not sure about, though the link said no recalls found for my VIN. None of them seem to deal with the front steering/suspension systems much, mostly seems electrical. I'm going to make myself feel better by assuming it's something that will probably never get completely fixed, and just get a new car rather than throw good money after bad. This car got 30k miles further than my 1st car (93 Corsica, front end melted down) and about 20k further than my 2nd (95 Lumina, stopped starting and I didn't have the knowledge to figure it out). 4th time's the charm, I assume. Thanks.
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Mar 12, 2015 05:14
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So, here's my project. 1995 LT1 with a 383 eagle stroker crank going into a 1967 chevy C20 pickup with a Muncie SM420 transmission. In theory this will mate fine, as the LT1 is the same block as a gen-1 SBC. Here's my concern though. This is the rear of an LT1, not mine, but you get the idea:  This is what the SM420 flywheel came off of:  I've been lead to believe that all SBCs, including the LT1 are balanced the same, and so therefore the SM420 flywheel will bolt right up and balance my LT1. Am I correct? that external balancer thing attached to the old engine is weirding me out. I don't really know of a way to test the engine's balance though outside of dismantling it all again....
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Mar 12, 2015 06:26
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Old motor is probably a 400. I've never seen the back of one, but they're externally balanced. Keep in mind, though, that stroker kits are almost always externally balanced too. So, good chance they'll both be "weird." The only thing I'd worry about is the one-piece rear main seal that everything '86+ is. I think they use different flywheels? Edit: Actually, I'm stupid. Internally/externally balanced only affects the front of the motor, i.e. what damper you need to use. Looks like that counterweight flange thing was changed when they went to 1-piece rear main seal, so I should have recognized it because I've had three 2-piece SBCs now. Doyy. http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engine-swap/635574-one-piece-vs-two.html This thread straightened me out. Raluek fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Mar 12, 2015 |
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Mar 12, 2015 06:37
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The old motor is a targetmaster 350, basically a cheap GM crate motor, made in 1980 I believe. For the one-piece vs two piece rear main seals, how does that affect the flywheels? The engine i've got is on a bellhousing stand, so I can't test fit the flywheel. If I need a different flywheel, will a SM420 clutch kit bolt up to say, an LT1 flywheel?
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Mar 12, 2015 06:41
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Deceptor101 posted:The old motor is a targetmaster 350, basically a cheap GM crate motor, made in 1980 I believe. For the one-piece vs two piece rear main seals, how does that affect the flywheels? The engine i've got is on a bellhousing stand, so I can't test fit the flywheel. If I need a different flywheel, will a SM420 clutch kit bolt up to say, an LT1 flywheel? According to that thread I edited into my other post, the flywheels are not compatible between 1-piece and 2-piece RMS motors. Whether the clutch stuff from the SM420 will bolt up I'm not sure, additional googling will be required. E: According to this Pirate thread, the SM420 clutch should work with a TBI 1-piece RMS flywheel; not sure how it differs from the LT1 flywheel. If you already have the LT1 flywheel, I guess it would be pretty simple to measure it out? Raluek fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Mar 12, 2015 |
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Mar 12, 2015 06:43
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I don't have an LT1 flywheel handy, the one that came off the 383 went into our lemons car with the T56. I guess if I'm buying a flywheel and clutch kit, I'd like to only buy one. I'll see if I can test fit the SM420 flywheel tomorrow, although it seems pretty clear that won't fly. I'll see if I can find a parts store with a TBI flywheel in stock and see if the clutch will bolt up to it.
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Mar 12, 2015 07:26
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Deceptor101 posted:I don't have an LT1 flywheel handy, the one that came off the 383 went into our lemons car with the T56. I guess if I'm buying a flywheel and clutch kit, I'd like to only buy one. I'll see if I can test fit the SM420 flywheel tomorrow, although it seems pretty clear that won't fly. I'll see if I can find a parts store with a TBI flywheel in stock and see if the clutch will bolt up to it. The downside to using a TBI flywheel is that you'd have to swap out the starter with it, due to different tooth counts. If you can get a good look at the SM420 flywheel maybe you can find a picture or schematic of the TBI flywheel or something. I dunno. Unless you're friends with someone at a parts store who can let you take careful measurements of inventory, that would be pretty cool.
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Mar 12, 2015 07:29
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Fart Pipe posted:Good to know about the crank angle sensor, Ill check that on Sunday but I think it might be OBD1 since its a 95, I dont know a ton about Hondas though. A 95 USDM/CDM Honda will definitely be OBD1, even a late 95. They really didn't have to add much to make them work with OBD2 though - an OBD2 D series will run happily in an OBD1 car with only swapping a couple of sensors (if that), though you'd have to add a few sensors to run an OBD1 D series in an OBD2 car. Distributor may also be different. Sounds like whoever was last in there didn't bother with the cap gasket either; it shouldn't have been rusty in there. I'm betting the tach went apeshit just before it died, if it failed the same way that my Integra's distributor failed. The tach looked like Michael J Fox right before mine died, and about 30 minutes before it started twitching at random.
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Mar 12, 2015 09:16
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At least toyotas have the decency to just stall immediately then run like a misfiring oval office at the slightest hint of moisture. You can't damage what you can't drive!
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Mar 12, 2015 09:32
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Raluek posted:The downside to using a TBI flywheel is that you'd have to swap out the starter with it, due to different tooth counts. If you can get a good look at the SM420 flywheel maybe you can find a picture or schematic of the TBI flywheel or something. I dunno. Unless you're friends with someone at a parts store who can let you take careful measurements of inventory, that would be pretty cool. I have an aftermarket Hitachi PSL100 starter which, after a panicked googling says it should work with 153 or 168 tooth flywheel. A bit more research says the sm420 was a 14.1" flywheel with an 11" clutch, where the lt1 flywheel was 12.8" with an 11" clutch. My guess is it won't bolt up, but there's a store on the way home that has three lt1 flywheels in stock, so I'll just see if my sm420 pressure plate will bolt to it. Although really I'm buying a flywheel anyways, so whether its the tbi 14" or the lt1 12.8" doesn't matter. Perhaps a bigger flywheel is good for a truck? E: the 1993 TBI truck flywheel fit the pressure plate perfectly. Lucky they had both in stock. I'll test fit it when I get it on the cradle stand next week. Thanks for the help with this! Deceptor101 fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Mar 13, 2015 |
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Mar 12, 2015 18:40
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http://www.weathertech.com floor mats: Yay or Nay? My '95 Nissan truck mats are looking wretched and, as much as I'd like identical OEM ones, they are carpeted and I want something more durable. The WT mats caught my eye because they have a hole for the mat anchor. Any experience with the company or have any others in mind that I should consider? Arriviste fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Mar 13, 2015 |
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Mar 13, 2015 01:29
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Arriviste posted:http://www.weathertech.com floor mats: Yay or Nay? They're great, but expensive. Since they aren't rubber they don't have as much friction when they get wet. First time I cleaned them I about busted my rear end trying to get in.
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Mar 13, 2015 02:39
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Bovril Delight posted:They're great, but expensive. Since they aren't rubber they don't have as much friction when they get wet. First time I cleaned them I about busted my rear end trying to get in. Good point about the slip factor. Doesn't sound ideal when climbing into the truck. I have a small, channeled, plastic mat for where my right heel rests to help prolong the life of the old floor mat. It gets on my nerves when my shoes are wet.
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Mar 13, 2015 03:52
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I've got a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 120k miles on the clock. It's the 4.0L inline 6 and the thing is a beast. I've been putting gas in the thing for close to a decade and love it. It's developed some weird issues, namely a ghost in the A/C system that my mechanic can't seem to figure out. We've replaced hoses, seals and even the condenser to no avail. Which takes a back seat to.. The rough idle and misfires AFTER warmup. When it starts cold, things are great. After a 15 - 20 minute drive somewhere, it'll shake like a paint mixer and start throwing 3rd cyl misfire codes. Thoughts? Before checking it out, the mechanic thought it might be an issue with the valve lifter seals, which would be $3800 to fix. YIKES.
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Mar 13, 2015 17:31
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My new modulator should be arriving today and I plan on installing it after work. The past couple days, though, I've noticed more static on radio stations (still not nearly as much as when the bad modulator was connected and turned on). I don't know if this static is new, or if I'm just hyper-aware of it after dealing with this modulator stuff. Assuming the antenna cables (I have two going into the back of my unit) are connected fully, is there anything else that could be adding static? I've seen some stuff mentioning a poorly grounded antenna. Could that be causing something like this? Would I need to tear my car apart to find where the antenna is grounded (the antenna is located on the roof of my car near the back).
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Mar 13, 2015 17:36
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killingthebest posted:I've got a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 120k miles on the clock. It's the 4.0L inline 6 and the thing is a beast. I've been putting gas in the thing for close to a decade and love it. First of all I don't care where you are, it'll cost you less to drive the thing to central Mass and pay me a couple cases of beer to do the valve stem seals or a small amount to do the lifters than he's quoting you. Even an engine swap is a weekend project and wouldn't cost you more than about 700 in parts, fluids, consumables, gaskets, etc. However, neither of those things is your issue and you should tell him to gently caress off. Google "jeep precat heatsoak vapor lock" and put your radiator fan on a timer so it runs for a couple minutes after shutting the vehicle off. Most people set one up based off a couple relays and an ELK 960 general purpose timer module, just make sure you do it right so it doesn't set a CEL for fan relay coil circuit malfunction or run your battery flat.
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Mar 13, 2015 18:05
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Seconding kastein here, my TJ likes to do that in the summer. There's a TSB for it, in fact. Not covered by Chrysler, but they officially recognize the issue and there is a factory-approved repair method, which is to add a heat shield to the number 3 injector.
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Mar 13, 2015 18:28
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kastein posted:First of all I don't care where you are, it'll cost you less to drive the thing to central Mass and pay me a couple cases of beer to do the valve stem seals or a small amount to do the lifters than he's quoting you. Even an engine swap is a weekend project and wouldn't cost you more than about 700 in parts, fluids, consumables, gaskets, etc. Yeah, the price sounded outrageously high considering how repairable the 4.0L is. Couple of cases of beer sounds more like a fair trade to me than the multiple paychecks I was quoted. kastein posted:However, neither of those things is your issue and you should tell him to gently caress off. I just might quote you depending on what he comes back with  EightBit posted:Seconding kastein here, my TJ likes to do that in the summer. There's a TSB for it, in fact. Not covered by Chrysler, but they officially recognize the issue and there is a factory-approved repair method, which is to add a heat shield to the number 3 injector. I found info on this after reading Kastein's google tip, I'm going to give this a shot if the shop doesn't suggest it or identify the issue under the heat soak TSB. Thanks for the advice, it's much appreciated!
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Mar 13, 2015 18:49
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What's your A/C ghost? Maybe somebody here could help with that too.
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Mar 13, 2015 21:41
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CharlesM posted:What's your A/C ghost? Maybe somebody here could help with that too. It's not holding a charge, I've all the connections and tubing replaced for leaks - including the condenser (it was pushing the refrigerant into my transmission fluid). It's still not holding a charge for longer than a day, which is frustrating. The compressor passed testing, so I'm not really sure what to try next!
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Mar 14, 2015 00:39
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killingthebest posted:It's not holding a charge, I've all the connections and tubing replaced for leaks - including the condenser (it was pushing the refrigerant into my transmission fluid). It's still not holding a charge for longer than a day, which is frustrating. Have you checked the evaporator? If you have a UV light, I'd shine it on the evaporator drain under the truck.
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Mar 14, 2015 00:58
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87 Mazda B2000 I'm replacing the inner and outer tie rod ends. I didn't notice in my Haynes manual if the stud needed to be centered properly before the nuts are tightened down or if I could just eyeball it. Anyone know the answer?
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Mar 14, 2015 01:04
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