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Chris! posted:Shoe update: after advice in this thread, I went with the Scarpa Vapour v's. Thanks for your recommendations! Wooo, Vapor V buddy! I bought mine a size down as well, didn't take all that long to break in nicely. Maybe two, three weeks at 3 sessions a week?
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Mar 8, 2015 07:50
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borapt posted:Wooo, Vapor V buddy! I'm reeeally hoping these break in quickly. Tried climbing in them for the first time this morning and it was fairly agonising - I could only manage 3 climbs before I had to switch back to some old backup shoes. But they're leather, so should have some stretch in them... Hopefully in 3 weeks I'll be able to go a whole session in them! (And will actually be able to feel climbing holds under my toes again. I hate breaking in new shoes).
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Mar 8, 2015 17:26
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When I got my new Vapor Vs, it was also really painful to break them in at first. I just took to climbing routes until it was really uncomfortable, taking off the shoes to give my feet a break, then climbing more with them. They broke in pretty quickly that way.
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Mar 8, 2015 17:41
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Finally broke my fear of roofs and bulging overhangs after doing nothing but all day on slick as snot basalt here in Portland. Anyone have thoughts about Sportiva Katanas? Thinking about getting a pair to complement my Mythos for better toe edging.
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Mar 8, 2015 23:45
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Mar 8, 2015 23:59
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pac man frogs posted:Anyone have thoughts about Sportiva Katanas? Thinking about getting a pair to complement my Mythos for better toe edging. My girlfriend's got a pair and likes them. Can't say much more than that since I haven't personally used them, though.
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Mar 9, 2015 00:02
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Katanas are excellent shoes, pretty much the same as the Vapor V* but a little narrower. I climb in them both all the time, and would absolutely recommend them as a daily driver. But I also think the mythos is a dinosaur that should be retired. The katana will size totally differently from them, probably at least a size and a half up. (And maybe about a full size down from the vapor.) * The Katana was the last shoe the designer made before he took a job at Scarpa. The Vapor was the first shoe he made there.
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Mar 9, 2015 01:56
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pac man frogs posted:Anyone have thoughts about Sportiva Katanas? Thinking about getting a pair to complement my Mythos for better toe edging.
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Mar 9, 2015 05:06
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pac man frogs posted:Anyone have thoughts about Sportiva Katanas? Thinking about getting a pair to complement my Mythos for better toe edging. Got a pair last week at a nice discount. They're still killing my feet breaking in, but they're a huge step up from my dirt cheap Mad Rocks before. I can stick to little holds (esp. toe holds) that I would have slipped off before. One of my climbing buddies wears them too and says they're pretty comfy once they're broken in.
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Mar 9, 2015 06:52
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Some photos from Joshua Tree trip this weekend Me sending False Hueco which starts way down in that cave and is apparently a V1 but gently caress J tree ratings  Wide shot of some other V1. My foot cut when I was topping this out and i slide straight down and tore my legs all up. Good spotting saved my head from slamming on that big boulder in the fall zone  Dragonscale, super easy but cool looking  Satellite left, a v3 but so committing at the top  
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Mar 9, 2015 07:32
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There isn't a dedicated canyoneering thread, so I'm bugging the rock climbing thread with my stuff again. I've been canyoneering for the past year in Arizona and Utah and having a blast doing it. The spring rains have created some epic Class C conditions in Arizona's canyons recently that my friends and I have been having fun exploring, so thought I would share some pics. A few weeks back we ran Shake Tree Canyon, in the Mazatzal mountains of central Arizona. We hit this canyon just after a few days of rain and the waterfall rappels were in perfect condition. A tough entrance and exit hike but totally worth the effort.   Here's a video of Shake Tree Canyon: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DT2kfiISJTg And then this past weekend we hit another central Arizona canyon. I've been asked not to post the name of this one since its not in a guidebook yet. But it was another epic trip with some of the best waterfall rappels I've done yet.   Here's a video of this canyon: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zBgz-fRStHI In the next month I've got permits to run two separate canyons in the Grand Canyon. These trips incorporate technical canyoneering with backpacking and packrafting, so I'm super excited for these. Should be good times!
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Mar 9, 2015 16:29
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Always post your stuff in this thread. It's really cool!
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Mar 9, 2015 16:33
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pac man frogs posted:Anyone have thoughts about Sportiva Katanas? Thinking about getting a pair to complement my Mythos for better toe edging. I got a pair of Katanas when I upgraded from my newbie shoes (moved on to Scarpa Boostics recently). They were comfortable for long sessions and the pointed toe definitely helped as I moved into V4/V5 territory. Word of warning though, the toe rubber wears pretty quickly along the front edge.
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Mar 9, 2015 16:37
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Speleothing posted:But I also think the mythos is a dinosaur that should be retired. What makes them a dinosaur?
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Mar 9, 2015 17:36
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Speleothing posted:But I also think the mythos is a dinosaur that should be retired. I have a pair of mythos, and they are amazingly comfortable. They are by no means my best shoe for any particular style of climb, but if my shoes are going to be on my feet for hours those are the shoes I pick every time. If they are dinosaurs, what is the modern shoe that you would say best replaces them?
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Mar 9, 2015 17:58
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It's too floppy and soft, and you have to size down too far because it stretches too much. I'd get La Sportiva TC Pros, Tenaya Masais, Five Ten Anasazi Guide or Anasazi Pinky to hit that same "all-day comfort, lace-up" zone, and there are other shoes out there for people with differently shaped feet.
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Mar 9, 2015 20:38
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Speleothing posted:It's too floppy and soft, and you have to size down too far because it stretches too much. Okay, I'll check those out when I wear this pair out. They are definitely floppy and soft (which does add to their comfort), and I definitely sized down a lot when I bought them.
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Mar 10, 2015 14:19
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I'm in the market for quickdraws and came across a pretty good price on Nano KS Express from Camp USA. Anyone have any experience with these and feel like weighing in on them?
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Mar 10, 2015 15:02
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FiestaDePantalones posted:I'm in the market for quickdraws and came across a pretty good price on Nano KS Express from Camp USA. Anyone have any experience with these and feel like weighing in on them? I haven't used those particular quickdraws, although they look like pretty standard wiregate draws. I have a bunch of quickdraws at this point, including the first inexpensive set I bought (which are wiregate like these), and nicer keylock ones I bought later. I exclusively use the keylock ones at this point, unless I am on a really long climb where I need them all, in which case I use the wire gate ones first. The wire gates will occasionally catch on the hanger, and the rope will also occasionally catch in the wire gate. It's not a big deal, but eventually you'll get tired of it. If you are just getting into sport leading outdoors and actually need your own draws (vs. climbing on your buddy's), I wouldn't worry about it. If you have a crew that you climb with and you can use their gear and don't really need your own, then you might want to just wait and buy some nicer keylock ones.
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Mar 10, 2015 15:38
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I have these from Camp USA, and like them. http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Camp-USA-Photon-Mixed-Express-Nylon-Quickdraw_10118975_10208_10000001_-1_ Pretty good price there too. The only complaint I have is that they don't use a typical rubber "keeper" on the rope side of the draw, but rather sew the sling really tight to keep the biner oriented. This usually works, but sometimes the wiregate biner turns in the sling a little bit. Not a problem, usually something I notice on the ground, but can be annoying. This draw addresses the keylock/wiregate issue discussed above. I'm in agreement in that at this point, any draw I buy for sport has the keylock nose on the bolt side.
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Mar 10, 2015 16:21
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Thanks for the advice! I ended up going for the Black Diamond Posiwires since I could get 12 for $108 and haven't really heard any negative things about them.
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Mar 10, 2015 17:27
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Anyone looking to buy new shoes should try on Tenayas. I started wearing them several years ago and haven't switched brands since. Don't know if its just that they fit the shape of my foot really well, but they have, by far, the best comfort to performance ratio of any shoe I've tried. And the XS Grip 2 is some of the best rubber around. I'm sure the only reason they haven't caught on more is that they aren't widely distributed.
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Mar 10, 2015 20:56
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Second session of bouldering today! Managed to do both the (3b/c Font) routes that'd beaten me last time - one was 'better technique', the other was ugly as gently caress and I'm planning on going again on saturday to try and figure it out better - I did it by making a slight jump/cling (to call it a dyno would be vastly overstating. Brown move, maybe) that I'm sure shouldn't be needed. Quick question - is 'arete' pronounced 'ar-ett' or 'ar-ah-tay'?
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Mar 10, 2015 22:17
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A-rett
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Mar 10, 2015 23:28
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Ta. I never did get french pronounciation down.
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Mar 10, 2015 23:37
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FiestaDePantalones posted:Thanks for the advice! I ended up going for the Black Diamond Posiwires since I could get 12 for $108 and haven't really heard any negative things about them. I was going to recommend these. Probably my favorite draws I have used. E: It was in the gym but I did put down an 11d last night.
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Mar 11, 2015 00:39
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FiestaDePantalones posted:Thanks for the advice! I ended up going for the Black Diamond Posiwires since I could get 12 for $108 and haven't really heard any negative things about them. That's a ridiculously cheap price..! I wish draws were that inexpensive in the UK.
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Mar 11, 2015 08:49
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Chris! posted:That's a ridiculously cheap price..! I wish draws were that inexpensive in the UK. Got them straight from their website and used bdwelcome15, a 15% off promo code. They are a Web special right now, I believe.
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Mar 11, 2015 20:00
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petrol blue posted:
http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/ar%C3%AAte
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Mar 12, 2015 00:48
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Huh. Didn't see that one coming. Now I just need to learn how to climb up them, and I'm golden! 
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Mar 12, 2015 02:04
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petrol blue posted:Huh. Didn't see that one coming. Just lay 'em back 
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Mar 12, 2015 02:44
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wiki posted:Liebacking That sounds loving terrifying. I think a big part of learning (for me, at least) is going to be figuring out how to trust in the grip I have, and gauging my reach/grip/balance. Using hire shoes isn't helping, because I'm aware/paranoid the exact grip will change each time, etc, etc. Also, I need to just loving fall off and take a big splat, unlearn the fear. e: My bf said the cutest / most-sad-but-true thing - after the first very easy lateral climb, he pointed out that it feels kinda naughty, like you expect to be told off for climbing on the furniture. 
petrol blue fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Mar 12, 2015 |
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Mar 12, 2015 03:01
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petrol blue posted:That sounds loving terrifying. I think a big part of learning (for me, at least) is going to be figuring out how to trust in the grip I have, and gauging my reach/grip/balance. Using hire shoes isn't helping, because I'm aware/paranoid the exact grip will change each time, etc, etc. It's terrifying the first time. Then you get the hang of it and it's the best thing ever! True story - had never taken a lead fall after two seasons of outdoor climbing until last fall. I had to go to the gym and do it on purpose to get over it. It's not a big deal once you get it out of your system. In other news I'm super-stoked to be planning (and gearing up for) my first alpine trip this July. My partners and I decided to start on Wham Ridge. I've been cross-training like mad and it's exhausting but awesome! Hike with 40 pound packs erryday. Not super-stoked about the huge gash I got in my thumb that's keeping my off of rock currently. 
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Mar 12, 2015 03:16
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It was in the gym and it wasn't pretty (2 falls and 2 takes, last climb of the day and all) but it was 5.12a.
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Mar 12, 2015 06:46
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so wrong. never heard someone say arete in those two seasons of climbing???
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Mar 13, 2015 02:47
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jackchaos posted:
Where is this?
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Mar 13, 2015 20:59
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Pope Hilarius posted:so wrong. never heard someone say arete in those two seasons of climbing??? Sure, have said it many times myself. Sort of like you hear hikers call cairns "karens", it seems to have drifted into its own pronunciation.
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Mar 13, 2015 21:25
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Right, third set of climbing pants I've tried, four if you count trying leggings on and refusing to leave the house. What the gently caress do people wear for climbing? I'm having a pig of a time finding something that doesn't bind and is lightweight enough not to make me overheat after ten minutes: -My huge ancient denim skater-shorts (shut up) - fine, but only because they already have a massive rip in the arse (wore leggings under them). Waiting for them to actually disintegrate on the wall is distracting. -Nylon reebok tracksuit - overheated, stuck at extreme stretching. Also reebok. -Cut-off army surplus pants - binding at my knee. I bought them oversize to give myself more room, plus they were what the charity shop had  -Leggings - ahahaha, no. I'm deeply skint, especially after paying for month-pass at the bouldering place, so any ideas on cheap-but-functional would go down real well. Also, stories of what definitely doesn't work, so I can take it off the list. e: I got a pair of 'craghoppers', look decent/loose/etc, but they're fully lined and way too hot for anything but winter extreme wear. Should I just hack the lining out? That seemed like a winner with the tracksuit pants, but then they were sticky. petrol blue fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Mar 14, 2015 |
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Mar 14, 2015 00:18
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I wear shorts or, when it's cold, some baggy hiking trousers. The other day I forgot to pack shorts so climbed in some tight-ish jeans, which didn't hinder me as much as expected. But I probably looked like a bellend.
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Mar 14, 2015 00:27
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petrol blue posted:Right, third set of climbing pants I've tried, four if you count trying leggings on and refusing to leave the house. What the gently caress do people wear for climbing? Prana Stretch Zion pants are the best pants by a long shot. Though sometimes I just wear jeans.
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Mar 14, 2015 02:46
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