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killingthebest posted:It's not holding a charge, I've all the connections and tubing replaced for leaks - including the condenser (it was pushing the refrigerant into my transmission fluid). It's still not holding a charge for longer than a day, which is frustrating. I would have called bullshit on "pushing refrigerant into the transmission fluid" until last weekend, when I had the pleasure of working on the cooling and transmission cooler systems on your vehicle's near twin, a 2004. Such a weird failure mode. What a stupid loving design that combined atx/refrigerant cooler is. kastein fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Mar 14, 2015 |
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Mar 14, 2015 01:07
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kastein posted:I would have called bullshit on "pushing refrigerant into the transmission fluid" until last weekend, when I had the pleasure of working on the cooling and transmission cooler systems on your vehicle's near twin, a 2004. Such a weird failure mode. At least it doesn't disable the vehicle like the Escape hybrid; it has a second evaporator/fan for the battery, and it's engineered to need that chilled air, so if your A/C fails the cabin air is inadequate cooling and the battery overheats. 
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Mar 14, 2015 01:59
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Is there anything to road force wheel balancing? I just got new wheels and had Sears swap my old tires over. I've been back to have them balanced 3 times and I've still got serious vibration issues. I can't stand it anymore so I looked up local tire shops and noticed the road force thing. It looks like its just a more accurate balancing service for an extra fee. I'm willing to pay it if there's anything to it. I have a long rear end commute and I can't stand the wobblyness.
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Mar 14, 2015 07:00
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Speaking as a former tech... uh. Hrm. We're told road-forcing can make a difference in certain difficult cases, but I've never seen it done on a real car, just loose wheels for training purposes. No idea if it actually makes a noticeable difference in road feel. Something to check for (depending on the vehicle) is brake rotor/drum clips, these guys:  Factory wheels have a space cast into them on the flange to clear them, but some aftermarket wheels don't have the space. If the clip is left on it can cause the wheel to not be flush when mounted and cause vibration that way even if they're perfectly balanced on the machine. The clips are only for assembly line purposes and are 100% unnecessary on the finished car; they leave them on because it's cheaper to cast the space into the wheel than add an extra step in the factory to remove them.
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Mar 14, 2015 07:16
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Fucknag posted:Something to check for (depending on the vehicle) is brake rotor/drum clips, these guys: Yes.
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Mar 14, 2015 07:30
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I definitely don't have those. I'm kinda leaning toward the techs at Sears being a little stoney. Last time around the cross threaded a lug and had to order a new stud and lug and rip the whole hub apart to press in the new stud. I'm going to try another shop this morning that offers road force. They may tell me I don't need it but if I just have a wonky wheel/tire combo or something I want the option there. I'll report back later.
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Mar 14, 2015 10:42
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1991 Honda Accord, 4L Sedan. Automatic transmission. As part of an ongoing saga, my car managed to get completed flooded in a season atypical snowstorm recently (caused by a bad windshield - a saga of its own, but that one I understand). It completely flooded the car's computer, causing the computer to break and the car to not start. Brought it to a mechanic - he dried out the computer (still works) and checked for damage. The ingition coil shorted out, he claims, replaced. Also replaced a broken bolt on a loose valve cover, and replaced gasket. All works fine! Other than a wet carpet I'm still cleaning. Car runs better than it ever has, and the roughest idle I'd ever felt in a functioning car disappeared. Sounds good, right? But I discovered one minor problem - whenever I accelerate too quickly past ~35 MPH (when it's shifting gears, I'm assuming), it jerks about 2-3 times. When I say jerk, it's as if I pull my foot off the gas for a second, but multiple times. Only does this if I accelerate too hard, and it can be easily avoided by just easing up on the acceleration during the transition. Never does this on any other shifts - and the car can run at 60+ MPH without issue. It's always had a short delay when I shift certain gears too quickly, but this is the first time it's actually jerked the car numerous times, and very noticeably. I've been pretty gentle on it since this discovery, so it may actually do this in more places, but so far that's the only place I've noticed it. Googling suggests many, many things that could be wrong. I'm getting all the fluids checked and replaced first, since I have a feeling that the various leaks and general wear and tear may have depleted them. The other thing that was suggested was a bad spark plug, but I know little else of cars beyond this. I really don't want it to be the transmission - this car is old as gently caress and NOT worth replacing anything like that. This latest batch of bizarre flooding was bad enough, and if it's something small I can take the hit, but in a 25 year old car with 190k miles, it may be approaching the end of it's life. It's served me so well though, and I can't deny emotional attachment.  What do you think goons? Any suggestions on what to check, or do? EDIT: Forgot a key point! Before the mechanic that got my car running, I went to a shittier one that suggested really dumb poo poo and I pulled the car out before he charged me more. He DID claim to replace the spark plug, but the moron also didn't actually fix anything in the car and MAY have been the source of the broken bolt, so I don't trust that the spark plug is new or even installed properly. JosefStalinator fucked around with this message at 11:56 on Mar 14, 2015 |
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Mar 14, 2015 11:53
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This might be a stupid question, but how much gas do you have in the tank? I had similar symptoms when I was running an external fuel pump and let the level get too low.
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Mar 14, 2015 12:06
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Does this jerking seem to happen around 3000 RPM, and only around that RPM? Is the check engine light lit up? Also, for future reference, your car has a 2.2L 4 cylinder, not a 4 liter (4L = 4 liter). And it has 4 spark plugs, not one. Generally when spark plugs are worn out, you get a noticeable hard start issue when it's cold, and missing while it's cold and/or idling (shaking). Usually once you get the RPMs up, the misfire goes away until the plugs are really shot. They're also dead easy to replace on your engine;  in tools and 30 minutes of work (if you stop to chug a beer between each plug) is all it takes.The reason I ask about the RPMs and check engine light - if the computer is in what's commonly known as limp or limp home mode (meaning "running good enough to get you home"), it won't rev past a set RPM, usually around 2500 or 3000 RPM on Hondas. When it hits that mark, it starts doing what's known as fuel cut - meaning it shuts off the fuel until the RPMs drop below that set RPM, then turns the fuel back on, off, on, off, etc. It's designed to keep the engine from revving fast enough to cause any (possibly further) damage when something has caused the engine computer to have little to no idea what's going on with the engine, but will cause a violent jerking when you hit that particular RPM. The check engine light will pretty much always be lit up when the computer has gone into limp home mode, and may sometimes be flashing. If it's flashing, it means pull over right now and get it towed. It's also possible for the ECU to go into that mode without turning on the check engine light if the ECU has been damaged. Your car is old enough that a lot of shops will have no idea how to actually diagnose anything on it (they'll just throw parts at it), but all it takes to "pull codes" (basically get the computer to tell them what it thinks is wrong) is a paperclip jammed into a plug under the dash. Beyond that, it takes a little more troubleshooting than a newer car, but they're really simple cars to work on. Since it runs better after the coil swap, the coil probably was bad (Honda puts them inside the distributor, and they eventually crack and somewhat short out from the heat), but you have other issues going on as well. And 190k is nothing on a 90-93 Accord; I personally think that they are the most solid generation Accord that Honda ever built. They're just the right mix of simplicity while still bringing fuel injection as standard equipment (the prior generation offered fuel injection as an option, and had enough vacuum lines to scare off even the most dedicated mechanic). Just make sure the timing belt and water pump get changed every 90k, do the most basic of maintenance on everything else, and it'll run to at least 300-500k. If it were my car, I'd say it wouldn't hurt to maybe swap the engine computer, since you know it has water damage. You can use one from a 90 or 91 Accord, preferably automatic, and preferably from the same trim (DX/LX/EX, as each trim of that year actually had a slightly different engine), but the engine computer is smart enough to adapt to the engine if you wind up with one from a different trim. 92-93 will not work properly, even though it's the same body style (go by the model year, not the date it was built). It's very rare that an engine computer goes bad, but if it's gotten wet and not running properly afterwards, it's a pretty cheap part for your particular car (especially on ebay), and takes just a few minutes to swap. If you tried to start it while the ECU was taking a (snow)bath, there's a decent chance that the computer was damaged. I'd also suggest looking for a shop that specializes in either Hondas, or at least Asian cars. Or tell us what part of the world/country you're in, and maybe one of us can suggest a shop/swing by and get drunk. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:49 on Mar 14, 2015 |
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Mar 14, 2015 12:26
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Jerking under sudden acceleration points to two things assuming the fuel supply is good - a bad TPS or a bad O2 sensor, maybe a bad MAF if it is MAF not MAP based. If the TPS has failed (usually due to age/wear or water intrusion under the hood...) the ECU will have no idea where the throttle is, so it is forced to use wrong values and it'll jerk around a lot when you change suddenly because its mixture trim calculations based off the O2 sensor reading can't compensate fast enough. Same is true of the O2 sensor, but the other way around. Check for codes and do diagnosis before shotgunning $50 parts at it, but that's my bet. Also, seeing as it was wet, the ecu may actually be slowly failing, but like I said, diagnose, then spend money. It is rarely the ecu, this is an odd case though.
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Mar 14, 2015 14:10
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So it looks like the static I was hearing wasn't necessarily due to a bad modulator. I received a new modulator and installed it last night. It did the same thing. When turned on, it noticeably affected the reception of other stations (even stations nowhere near the station the modulator is overriding). Also, as with the first one, the new modulator worked even when the ground wire wasn't connected to anything (I did have it connected when I was testing it out, then I remove the wire and noticed that nothing changed). I'm also fairly certain that even when the modulator isn't on (or isn't even installed) there is more static in general than there used to be. So, where do I go from here? My radio has two different antenna inputs (1 normal sized antenna connector and one that looks the same but is about half the size). Both of them seem to affect radio performance as reception drops significantly if either one is unplugged. Do I need to track down a loose connection somewhere? Do I need a ground loop isolator somewhere (I've never dealt with these before)?
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Mar 14, 2015 14:41
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Raluek posted:This might be a stupid question, but how much gas do you have in the tank? I had similar symptoms when I was running an external fuel pump and let the level get too low. I'm good on this one - the tank was pretty much full when I first noticed the problem, and it's still about 2/3 fuel. Good to eliminate one thing though! some texas redneck posted:Does this jerking seem to happen around 3000 RPM, and only around that RPM? Is the check engine light lit up? Ding ding ding! Despite writing my long rear end post, I somehow forgot to mention the check engine light is on . The mechanic who fixed my car couldn't figure out why it was on, but he didn't detect any problems - I accepted that, until now.I tested, and while in park I revved the engine. At about 3300-3500 RPM, the jerking occurs. Check engine light is on, perfectly describing what you outlined in your post. I had to fluids all checked (just to be sure, and theres a shop down the road that'll take a look for free for me) and they're all good. The guy there drove it around and said it felt fine, but maybe has a slightly off torque converter, for what that's worth  I live in the DFW area in Texas, a bit North of Dallas specifically (Denton). If you have any recommendations for places I could bring it to get the codes read from someone who actually knows what they're doing, it'd be appreciated. I wouldn't be shocked if something was wrong as per Kastein's post, or if you're right and the computer is just bad since it did get completely soaked.
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Mar 14, 2015 15:34
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JosefStalinator posted:The mechanic who fixed my car couldn't figure out why it was on, If this is an accurate representation of what happened you need to NEVER go to that shop again because they are either incompetent or lazy.
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Mar 14, 2015 18:09
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Motronic posted:If this is an accurate representation of what happened you need to NEVER go to that shop again because they are either incompetent or lazy. Agreed. If there are any other Denton or DFW goons around, I'd love for a recommendation for a good mechanic. The one's I've been to around here are poo poo.
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Mar 14, 2015 23:09
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JosefStalinator posted:Agreed. If there are any other Denton or DFW goons around, I'd love for a recommendation for a good mechanic. The one's I've been to around here are poo poo. Just wait for STR to come back; he lives or lived in that area and I'm sure he's got some recommendations.
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Mar 15, 2015 01:52
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Raluek posted:Just wait for STR to come back; he lives or lived in that area and I'm sure he's got some recommendations. "some texas redneck". It all makes sense now! The car runs fine for now (engine light aside), and I don't plan on using it much anyway, so I can wait on a recommendation for a while. Thanks goons for all the advice so far!
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Mar 15, 2015 02:52
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So I went and had the road force balancing done. It improved things immensely but I still have a slight shimmy. The tech seemed to think it has something to do with the one mismatched tire I have. Still doesn't explain why sears couldn't seem to get it right. I can deal with it for another year or so until its time for new tires.
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Mar 15, 2015 03:40
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Going to post this again since it looks like it got lost at the very end of the last page.Parts Kit posted:87 Mazda B2000
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Mar 15, 2015 03:55
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Nothing quality to add (as usual): Just wanted to say that yours is one of my favorite name/avatar/title combos.
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Mar 15, 2015 04:10
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Parts Kit posted:Going to post this again since it looks like it got lost at the very end of the last page. What exactly do you mean? What stud?
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Mar 15, 2015 04:24
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Grumbletron 4000 posted:So I went and had the road force balancing done. It improved things immensely but I still have a slight shimmy. The tech seemed to think it has something to do with the one mismatched tire I have. Still doesn't explain why sears couldn't seem to get it right. I can deal with it for another year or so until its time for new tires. It may mean nothing, but I had all sorts of problems eliminating shimmy at certain speeds on a new set of tires. After almost three years of trying an embarrassing number of fixes, including having the front end aligned twice, all four tires balanced three times at two separate shops, swapping out the driveshaft (I have a spare) and contemplating rebuilding the entire driveline behind the transmission, I gave up and bought new tires. All problems disappeared. Turned out to be a cheap-rear end set of hosed-up tires.
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Mar 15, 2015 04:50
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I posted a while back about my Ranger's rear diff making GBS threads the bed. It's a '99 2.5L RWD with 7.5" 4.10 rear diff. Am I able to swap in a 4x4 rear diff? I can't seem to find that info online. I'd imagine from my limited knowledge of 4x4 differentials that the diff somehow can lock when put int 4x4 mode so again I don't know if that would work for me.
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Mar 15, 2015 05:06
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Drunk Pledge Driver posted:I posted a while back about my Ranger's rear diff making GBS threads the bed. It's a '99 2.5L RWD with 7.5" 4.10 rear diff. Am I able to swap in a 4x4 rear diff? I can't seem to find that info online. I'd imagine from my limited knowledge of 4x4 differentials that the diff somehow can lock when put int 4x4 mode so again I don't know if that would work for me. It's a non issue for you.
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Mar 15, 2015 05:31
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Ozmiander posted:It's a non issue for you. Yup. Either the diff has a manual locker of some kind, which you can't hook up so it just acts like a normal diff, or it's an LSD so you get an LSD upgrade.
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Mar 15, 2015 05:55
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Slavvy posted:What exactly do you mean? What stud? I think he's asking if centering the sleeve over the two tie rod ends is critical. It's not, but you should do what you can to get them fairly close. When I did mine I just spun both sides into the sleeve a certain number of turns, then installed it, and adjusted its length once it was on the car. Then take it to get aligned!
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Mar 15, 2015 07:24
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JosefStalinator posted:I live in the DFW area in Texas, a bit North of Dallas specifically (Denton). If you have any recommendations for places I could bring it to get the codes read from someone who actually knows what they're doing, it'd be appreciated. I wouldn't be shocked if something was wrong as per Kastein's post, or if you're right and the computer is just bad since it did get completely soaked. Denton, you say?  Small world.Yeah, I know just the guy actually, and he's in the middle of Denton near the county jail (on Woodrow). He's worked on every car I've owned, including the Saturn, and originally started out as a Honda-only guy at his father in law's shop. His FIL owns Danny's Import Service in Lewisville, which only works on Honda/Acura. He opened his own shop in Denton a few years ago, and specializes in Japanese cars (particularly Hondas). He's good enough that I gladly make the ~45 minute drive to see him when I can't tackle something myself. Give Jason a call at All About Imports - (940) 566-2125. He really knows his poo poo, especially with 90s Hondas. He's one of the most honest guys I've ever met (look him up on yelp if you want proof). Jason sometimes has a bit of a wait, since he's mostly a 1 man operation. If he asks who sent you, tell him some internet nerd named Sean Dunbar. There's also a DCTA bus stop just down the street, if he wants to keep the car awhile and can't give you a ride. He's officially open Mon-Fri during typical hours. Raluek posted:Just wait for STR to come back; he lives or lived in that area and I'm sure he's got some recommendations. Heh, yeah. I've known Jason (and his father in law) since 1998. Hell of a good guy. I don't live in Denton anymore, but I'm still up there a couple of times a month (I'll be up there in about 6 hours, actually, at Denton UUF), and plan to move back up there next year. JosefStalinator posted:Agreed. If there are any other Denton or DFW goons around, I'd love for a recommendation for a good mechanic. The one's I've been to around here are poo poo. Agreed for many (most?) shops in Denton, though there's actually a DIY shop up there on Dallas Dr. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:09 on Mar 15, 2015 |
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Mar 15, 2015 08:07
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Parts Kit posted:87 Mazda B2000 I've definitely eyeballed it every time I've done one of those. Never had one come back, probably done 30+.
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Mar 15, 2015 09:13
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Raluek posted:I think he's asking if centering the sleeve over the two tie rod ends is critical. It's not, but you should do what you can to get them fairly close. When I did mine I just spun both sides into the sleeve a certain number of turns, then installed it, and adjusted its length once it was on the car. Then take it to get aligned! 
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Mar 15, 2015 12:58
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Drunk Pledge Driver posted:I posted a while back about my Ranger's rear diff making GBS threads the bed. It's a '99 2.5L RWD with 7.5" 4.10 rear diff. Am I able to swap in a 4x4 rear diff? I can't seem to find that info online. I'd imagine from my limited knowledge of 4x4 differentials that the diff somehow can lock when put int 4x4 mode so again I don't know if that would work for me. Like the other two said, it is fine. I suspect you are confusing the center diff in the transfer case and the rear diff - the rear diff is the same either way, at least on every light duty pickup I've ever worked on. Some other stuff... always buy new ubolts. They stretch during torquing, and should be retorqued after about 100 miles of driving on the new diff. Make sure to clean any rust deposits (surface rust is alright, chunky rust is not) and dirt off the leaf spring and perch where they contact. You will need an m12 or m13 (I forget which) 12 point wrench to pop the 4 pinion drive flange bolts loose, they are reasonably tight and usually don't have enough clearance to get a socket and ratchet on them. I usually loctite them and tighten to "as drat tight as I can" using a deadblow hammer and the box wrench because it is real hard to break a hardened M12x1.75 bolt with a box wrench.
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Mar 15, 2015 15:30
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My buddy is looking to get a small truck for business use, no need for towing but he wants to be able to store a lot of equipment. He's currently looking at a Toyota Tacoma and a GMC Canyon, and prefers the engine and looks of the Canyon (V6 model). I usually default to Toyota over American cars, but is there anything particularly good or bad about either of them?
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Mar 15, 2015 19:56
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Would there be any reason why my bluetooth ODB2 reader with Torque pro can read the ECU on a 2007 Scion but it appears to not read a 2002 Civic? I assume the reader is a POS?
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Mar 15, 2015 20:15
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MomJeans420 posted:My buddy is looking to get a small truck for business use, no need for towing but he wants to be able to store a lot of equipment. He's currently looking at a Toyota Tacoma and a GMC Canyon, and prefers the engine and looks of the Canyon (V6 model). I usually default to Toyota over American cars, but is there anything particularly good or bad about either of them? The Tacoma is a fantastic truck (I've owned two) and will be running long after we are all dead and gone. That's reason enough.
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Mar 15, 2015 21:05
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Hey Guys, my 94 Ford Ranger is very bouncy. I replaced all the shocks when I first got it but its still the same. I don't see anything wrong with the springs(Leaf or Coils) what would you recommend I look at next? I haven't started my new job yet so I don't feel like throwing parts at it.
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Mar 15, 2015 23:25
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That's shocks, not springs. if you take the shocks out of a leaf/coil sprung vehicle, you can technically drive it (I wouldn't), but it's very ... bouncy.
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Mar 15, 2015 23:38
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Krakkles posted:That's shocks, not springs. if you take the shocks out of a leaf/coil sprung vehicle, you can technically drive it (I wouldn't), but it's very ... bouncy. Yeah but like I said I replaced all the shocks. I thought it would fix that and didnt.
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Mar 16, 2015 00:22
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lol internet. posted:Would there be any reason why my bluetooth ODB2 reader with Torque pro can read the ECU on a 2007 Scion but it appears to not read a 2002 Civic? I thought I've read on here that the ELM327 clones have some trouble with those cars but I can't find the relevant post. I think maybe it was Some Texas Redneck? For my Mazda though I actually needed the engine running for whatever reason.
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Mar 16, 2015 01:37
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What's a good adhesive for fusing plastic and vinyl together? I have to glue a plastic speaker grill to the vinyl door panel. I tried using Loctite Fabric glue which specifically said bonds plastic and vinyl but it lasted about a month. I was thinking maybe an epoxy?
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Mar 16, 2015 01:47
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leica posted:What's a good adhesive for fusing plastic and vinyl together? I have to glue a plastic speaker grill to the vinyl door panel. I tried using Loctite Fabric glue which specifically said bonds plastic and vinyl but it lasted about a month. I was thinking maybe an epoxy? For what it's worth: http://thistothat.com/cgi-bin/glue.cgi?lang=en&this=Vinyl&that=Plastic This to That posted:Vinyl to Plastic
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Mar 16, 2015 01:59
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Cool. Hot glue sounds great, but the problem with that is the poo poo dries before I can get it attached  Also noticed in the link it says to sand smooth plastic, that's probably half the problem. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Mar 16, 2015 |
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Mar 16, 2015 02:10
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Hot glue is probably not the best idea in a car unless you live in the very distant north.
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Mar 16, 2015 03:03
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