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Senior Funkenstien posted:Hey Guys, my 94 Ford Ranger is very bouncy. I replaced all the shocks when I first got it but its still the same. I don't see anything wrong with the springs(Leaf or Coils) what would you recommend I look at next? I haven't started my new job yet so I don't feel like throwing parts at it. About 100-150 lbs of sand should even it out. Trucks are bouncy when they are empty. Especially something as light as a ranger.
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Mar 16, 2015 03:29
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CharlesM posted:I thought I've read on here that the ELM327 clones have some trouble with those cars but I can't find the relevant post. I think maybe it was Some Texas Redneck? For my Mazda though I actually needed the engine running for whatever reason. The issues I've had with the clones were with Fords (late 90s to early 00s). I wound up spending some extra cash on an adapter that the author of Torque used to recommend - PLX Kiwi (doesn't seem to recommend it anymore, but the only issue I've had is the case fell apart). I've had it about 3 years now. Looks like the cheapest good adapter recommended by Torque's author is the Scantool.net line of adapters.
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Mar 16, 2015 04:16
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BrokenKnucklez posted:About 100-150 lbs of sand should even it out. Trucks are bouncy when they are empty. Thanks! I have some leftover rock salt from the water softener in bags. I'll throw some in the bed and see if it helps.
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Mar 16, 2015 04:20
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Yeah uh, voluntarily putting a large amount of salt on/in a vehicle is just not a good idea, unless you live in the land of 0% humidity where it never, ever, ever rains and you can avoid every single puddle. Get sand.
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Mar 16, 2015 04:40
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True, but it works just fine for a 1-day test to see if the weight helps.
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Mar 16, 2015 04:41
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some texas redneck posted:Yeah uh, voluntarily putting a large amount of salt on/in a vehicle is just not a good idea, unless you live in the land of 0% humidity where it never, ever, ever rains and you can avoid every single puddle. My ranger is clean as poo poo and rust free. I think I can throw some leftover 40 pound bags of salt in the plastic tub thats in the truck bed and see what happens. Edit: Its also garage kept and I dont intend to run with the sealed bags of rock salt in the rain. Senior Funkenstien fucked around with this message at 05:04 on Mar 16, 2015 |
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Mar 16, 2015 05:01
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Any websites/quality forums with common repair issues for used cars? http://repairpal.com http://edmunds.com/ Mainly considering Toyota Corolla, 4runner, Scion XA, Honda Civic.
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Mar 16, 2015 05:36
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Senior Funkenstien posted:My ranger is clean as poo poo and rust free. I think I can throw some leftover 40 pound bags of salt in the plastic tub thats in the truck bed and see what happens. Welp nevermind, I didn't realize you had a decent bed liner.  Carry on then.
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Mar 16, 2015 06:00
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LeeMajors posted:The Tacoma is a fantastic truck (I've owned two) and will be running long after we are all dead and gone. Apparently you can get the Tacoma with a manual transmission, but not the Canyon, so that's looking like a pretty decent option.
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Mar 16, 2015 06:53
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some texas redneck posted:Good post about Denton mechanic Thank you so much STR! I'm going to give him a call in a few hours, and this should help me at least figure out what's going on with my car. If you're ever around in Denton, I owe you a beer or something, especially if your guy can fix my car for a reasonable price! (username@gmail if you want to redeem your beer, don't have PM's)
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Mar 16, 2015 11:00
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Stepdaughter's. Replace, right? Not driveable? Appropriate response to her father who told her to "just stay off the interstate?"
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Mar 16, 2015 15:07
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MomJeans420 posted:Apparently you can get the Tacoma with a manual transmission, but not the Canyon, so that's looking like a pretty decent option. The manual I had, I kind of hated the clutch. Squeaky bushings, wide friction point. Maybe 'hated' is strong, but it drove like a loving Civic, not a truck. I'm not sure if the 6spd is any different--this was on a 4cyl/5spd manual. The V6 has a 6spd manual available. Oh, and the first gear was waaaaaaaay too short. Almost unnecessary. Give it a drive and see if you like it. If I buy another Tacoma i'll test drive the 6spd before I purchase another manual, but I'll avoid the hell out of that 5spd gearbox.
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Mar 16, 2015 15:27
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saint gerald posted:Stepdaughter's. Replace. I'm surprised it'll hold air.
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Mar 16, 2015 16:11
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saint gerald posted:Stepdaughter's. 'That's why I am the better father.'
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Mar 16, 2015 16:20
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spog posted:'That's why I am the better father.' Sigh. That makes the bill new taillight cluster, plugs, wires, new ignition cylinder, new wheel (+ mount and balance), and probably an oil change because God alone knows when it was last done. All this for a vehicle about which I said, "I don't care if he buys you a car but I'm not paying your insurance or fixing the bugger when it breaks." But enough family drama. Thanks -- if it's not worth beating back into shape I'll see what I can find on Ebay.
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Mar 16, 2015 16:41
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I have a 2002 Renault Clio 1.4 petrol. Because it's french poo poo it has an electrical fault, it's a bit weird. When I brake the rear window high brake light thing doesn't light up, and on my dash one of the things that indicates the rear foglights are on illuminates very dimly. The other weird electrical problem I have is sometimes the SERV and airbag lights on my dash illuminate and stay lit, but going around a roundabout fast turns it back off. Where do I start?
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Mar 16, 2015 17:58
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saint gerald posted:Stepdaughter's. Replace. It's a factory steelie, a junkyard won't charge more than like 40 if you aren't in a ridiculous area of the country. I generally break the bead on the tire with my high lift jack, then use a two foot long monkey wrench to bend the rim back out, and reseat the bead with starting fluid, but I don't recommend that unless she is entirely capable of handling a blowout at highway speeds. Bent aluminum wheels are junk no matter what, but steelies can be straightened a few times if you know what you're doing and are a skilled driver.
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Mar 16, 2015 18:13
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kastein posted:Bent aluminum wheels are junk no matter what, but steelies can be straightened a few times if you know what you're doing and are a skilled driver. That'd be a "replace," then, on both counts. Maybe my tire guy will give me a few bucks for the bent wheel. I found a new (well, junkyard) on ebay for $65 shipped.
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Mar 16, 2015 19:31
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Crankit posted:I have a 2002 Renault Clio 1.4 petrol. Airbag lights: Duff connectors under the leading edge of the front seat(s), very common fault. Also, on those Clios, check your bonnet catch, the secondary catch jams, and so if the main catch isn't properly clicked home, it can fly open on you. If you can just lift the bonnet after pulling the main release, without having to pull the secondary release as well, you need to clean and lube it.
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Mar 16, 2015 19:38
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I've got a 1999 Honda Accord V6 Sedan that I've been trying to sell for my dad. He told me there were no issues aside from a starting problem, but I never noticed it. The car is actually having a really rough time idling (they don't drive very well so I'm not surprised they didn't notice it).The car has always started when I've driven it hot or cold not sure if it was a fluke my parents ran into. Anyway, the rough idle is pretty bad, and I would be embarrassed as poo poo if I let someone test drive it this way. I should have taken longer video, but I'm dumb: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRh6KqzwvvE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-rPR3aGle1I This idling seems to occur most often when in Park. When driving it definitely seems like the transmission is "slipping" and not smooth. Sometimes when I go to a complete stop, the transmission takes a split second to cut out so it's jerky. I ignored the OP anyway and threw parts at it thinking it was either the main relay or ignition switch, so those parts have already been replaced. Car has 108k on the odo and in otherwise great condition. I would hate to lose a grand or two on the value because of this. From what I've read it could be the IACV or spark plugs? Not sure what else it could be. Ideas welcome. Bank fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Mar 16, 2015 |
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Mar 16, 2015 20:23
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JosefStalinator posted:Thank you so much STR! I'm going to give him a call in a few hours, and this should help me at least figure out what's going on with my car. I'm up there at least every other Sunday and a couple of Wednesdays every month, careful what you wish for.  Glad I could point you his way, he's a good guy and a great mechanic. Bank posted:I've got a 1999 Honda Accord V6 Sedan that I've been trying to sell for my dad. He told me there were no issues aside from a starting problem, but I never noticed it. The car is actually having a really rough time idling (they don't drive very well so I'm not surprised they didn't notice it).The car has always started when I've driven it hot or cold not sure if it was a fluke my parents ran into. Anyway, the rough idle is pretty bad, and I would be embarrassed as poo poo if I let someone test drive it this way. I should have taken longer video, but I'm dumb: That's a (large) vacuum leak causing that. Whenever Hondas of that era have a large enough vacuum leak, they get the bouncing idle - the vacuum leak causes the idle to shoot way up, and the ECU sees it climbing and shuts off the injectors until it drops back to where it should be. Rinse, repeat, and you get the bouncing idle. It does sound a bit rough, but the spark plugs are good for 100k - if they're original, they're due for replacement, but it should still run fine with the originals. Of more concern is if the timing belt and water pump have been changed - it should be done every 110k/7 years (whichever comes first), but if you're trying to sell it, having done that might increase the value only slightly (and only to someone who actually knows they're supposed to be done regularly). The only vacuum line large enough to cause that on that generation Accord would be the vacuum line going to the brake booster (it's what your brake master cylinder is mounted to). Check that line for cracks, and also listen for a hissing from that area (if the brake booster is bad, it can cause a large vacuum leak). Also check the intake tube between the air filter and throttle body to make sure it's tight - IIRC the V6 model uses a mass airflow sensor, any unmetered air getting in (i.e. any air not making it past the airflow sensor) will confuse the engine computer. A bad FITV (fast idle thermo valve - it's what's responsible for the cold idle) could also cause that. I don't think the IACV is capable of raising the idle high enough for the ECU to cut fuel. If it's not a vacuum line, if you have a propane torch, you can pass it around (UNLIT, but with the valve open) any possible vacuum leak spots - the idle will raise significantly when you find a leak. The throttle body, and where the intake manifold bolts to the engine, are good starting places (you'll need to remove the plastic cover from the top of the engine first). Get the idle taken care of, then you can figure out the transmission. Hate to tell you this, but the transmission Honda used with V6s between 98-04 was a pile of poo poo; if it's slipping or acting up, change the transmission fluid (with genuine Honda fluid; they're very picky about the fluid you use) and hope for the best. Honda transmissions of that era aren't the smoothest shifting either, and they also downshift through all the gears as you come to a stop (if you watch the tach while slowing down, you'll see it jump up a bit as it downshifts). The high idle plus the transmission dropping into 1st could be causing the jerk. Maybe. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Mar 16, 2015 |
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Mar 16, 2015 22:05
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I just got back from replacing the spark plugs since they were cheap and needed to get changed anyway, but still no difference. I haven't had any braking issues but I'll check out the hoses in the brake booster area to see if there are any cracks/tears etc..
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Mar 16, 2015 22:20
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Wife's 2010 Murano came home today with the airbag light blinking. I reset the thing using a combination of key turns I found online. Airbag light is off and no longer blinking. I went outside about 2 hours later and still no blinking. Something to worry about or just a temporary glitch fixed during the reset process? I just want to make sure she's safe and doesn't get into an accident with defective airbags. I also don't feel like going to the dealer and paying lots of money for something that's nothing. It's my understanding that cars do an airbag check every start up. So as long as the light is now off, should be fine now right?
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Mar 17, 2015 03:27
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No. When you start the car, the airbag light is meant to come on as a signal that everything is ok, then switch off after a few seconds. There is no way of knowing what is wrong with your car without pulling the codes with a scan tool but in my experience SRS systems are the best-engineered part of any car and the light tends not to come on unless there's something genuinely wrong. I'd take it to get scanned at the very least.
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Mar 17, 2015 07:34
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For my dad's accord I ended up giving the idle valve a deep cleaning and that resolved it I think. On a cold start it kept having a rough idle on park and neutral, but on drive it was fine. Driving around there wasn't any noticeable jerkiness, but I guess I will find out tomorrow for sure when I start it up cold again. I'm hoping it just had to re-learn the air/fuel mix.
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Mar 17, 2015 18:58
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I know this is a stupid question, but I need reassurance. Someone tell me how dumb an idea it is to buy a salvage title '04 Mercedes S600 for 8 grand (I feel like I could talk them down to seven). I know it's probably a clapped out POS with 8 miles of electrical gremlins, and the repairs will probably put me out of my house, but 700 lb/ft of torque.
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Mar 17, 2015 20:13
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Figure out a way to make the engine run on Megasquirt, let the rest of the electronics fall apart around it.
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Mar 17, 2015 20:43
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My mom just got a new 2014 Xterra a little over a month ago, but recently she was checking out the underside of the vehicle and it has some rust in spots. I'm wondering if it's normal to see rust like this on vehicles that have been sitting out in the elements or if this is excessive for a new vehicle. Link to album: http://imgur.com/a/V7dDJ
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Mar 17, 2015 21:36
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100% normal. It looks exceptionally clean.
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Mar 17, 2015 21:41
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Catronos posted:My mom just got a new 2014 Xterra a little over a month ago, but recently she was checking out the underside of the vehicle and it has some rust in spots. I'm wondering if it's normal to see rust like this on vehicles that have been sitting out in the elements or if this is excessive for a new vehicle. You're joking, right? That's what a vehicle that hasn't even made it off the truck looks like in the northeast. In fact, it's probably better.
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Mar 17, 2015 22:14
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Thanks guys, I've never owned a new vehicle and it's been since 1991 since my mom owned a brand new car, and I don't think she ever looked at the under body of that car when she got it.
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Mar 17, 2015 22:18
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Slavvy posted:No. When you start the car, the airbag light is meant to come on as a signal that everything is ok, then switch off after a few seconds. There is no way of knowing what is wrong with your car without pulling the codes with a scan tool but in my experience SRS systems are the best-engineered part of any car and the light tends not to come on unless there's something genuinely wrong. No codes and still no blinking light, so I'm just going to chalk it up to being a fluke and keep an eye on it.
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Mar 17, 2015 22:25
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Git Mah Belt Son posted:No codes and still no blinking light, so I'm just going to chalk it up to being a fluke and keep an eye on it. RIP in advance.
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Mar 17, 2015 23:25
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Git Mah Belt Son posted:No codes and still no blinking light, so I'm just going to chalk it up to being a fluke and keep an eye on it. What state do you live in? If it's not-California, you can get the codes read at a local spare parts store for free. Please at least do this, to ensure that there's no stored code that isn't showing for whatever reason. If the airbag is in any way faulty your wife is driving a significantly less-safe car. You said 2010 Murano? According to this, you have a 5 year warranty on the powertrain, which includes airbags for some reason. So you're probably still in the warranty period. I would take it to a dealership to get it checked out.
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Mar 18, 2015 00:26
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Oh, that's what I meant by no codes - no codes showed up when I had it scanned. I had it checked out at lunch today. He said as long as it's not blinking and there's no codes that the system is functional and sent me on my way. He said sometimes it can just be caused by a temporary low voltage.
Git Mah Belt Son fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Mar 18, 2015 |
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Mar 18, 2015 00:38
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If the CEL is on, there are codes, period. If it's blinking, it means stop driving NOW, if it's not, it means get it checked and fix the problem. e: oh, this is airbag stuff. That's completely different and I'm not sure what the rules on that are.
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Mar 18, 2015 00:53
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And actually it depends on what scanner they use. Most of the handheld ones they use at parts stores will see airbag codes are there but not be able to read them, but others can't even detect them, only basic powertrain codes. I'd take it to a real shop and have them check it out just to be absolutely sure. Maybe do it with an oil change if you've got one due soon.
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Mar 18, 2015 01:39
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Arriviste posted:Nothing quality to add (as usual): Just wanted to say that yours is one of my favorite name/avatar/title combos. Well shucks  PainterofCrap posted:It may mean nothing, but I had all sorts of problems eliminating shimmy at certain speeds on a new set of tires. These aren't new tires, just new wheels. The tires are 3 Goodyear eagle GT's and a single Eagle sport. The sport is on there because I potholed one of the GT's about a week after I got them and they were discontinued so I couldn't find another one. The sport was about the closest replacement I could get. They all have about 20k on them. I was wondering if mounting and unmounting can eventually damage a tire. These have been on and off a bunch of times due to corrosion on my old wheels. I had to have the cancer ground off the beads a few times due to chronic leaking plus having them taken on and off trying to fix my present troubles. These tires still have a decent amount of tread left so I hate to replace them but this is a pretty severe shimmy I'm dealing with so I will if I must.
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Mar 19, 2015 05:37
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How much is a bunch. Seasonal tire changes happen every year without any problem.
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Mar 19, 2015 06:07
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I don't know exactly. Between my balancing problems and trying to take care of the sealing problems on my old wheels they've probably been mounted and unmounted at least 5-6 times.
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Mar 19, 2015 10:06
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