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Going to do spark plugs on an Opel Astra H 1.6 tonight. Anyone know what the torque spec is? Edit: OK, this page says 25Nm, so going to go with that. bolind fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Mar 19, 2015 |
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Mar 19, 2015 14:09
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bolind posted:Going to do spark plugs on an Opel Astra H 1.6 tonight. Anyone know what the torque spec is? I do whatever is on the box of the spark plug. Gasket, tight plus a quarter turn. Wedge, tight plus an eighth.
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Mar 19, 2015 14:51
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bolind posted:Going to do spark plugs on an Opel Astra H 1.6 tonight. Anyone know what the torque spec is? Looks like you already found it but  Those are basically ISO specs so applicable across all makers.
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Mar 19, 2015 15:32
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2003 Honda Civic EX I recently got my airbags replaced at a honda dealership due to the recall. Before taking my car in, it was running fine. Upon release, they made the following recommendations: Wiper Inserts - $16.00 Compliance Bushings - Torn - $600 Wheel Alignment After Above Suspension Repairs - $89.95 Front Sway Bar End Links - $204.00 Timing Belt/Water Pump Combo - $560 Sum: ~$1466 1. After maybe 25 miles of driving after the airbags were replaced, the smoothness of the driving is a little bumpier. 2. After maybe 25 miles of driving after the airbags were replaced, the Malfunction Indicator Lamp light came on. 2a. My understanding is that for some cars, the MIL will come on at certain mileages, even if nothing is wrong. The mileage is at , 114052. So that doesn't seem like it would be the cause. 3. I checked my oil and it's a medium shade of brown. Thoughts: 1. I'm kind of skeeved that the MIL came on after leaving the mechanic. Am I being hustled? 2. The Timing Belt/Water Pump seems drastically overpriced based on a quick google search. Is it a super labor-intense replacement? Also, am I being hustled? 3. Are there ways for me to check the validity of these suggest replacements? Like how can I tell if it needs to be replaced/how imminently/etc? Are there any other considerations I should be thinking of?
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Mar 19, 2015 20:14
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Those are all valid service items for a car with >110,000 miles on it. Prices are a bit steep since it's a dealer quote. Timing belts tend to be a fairly labor intensive project because the engine has to be retimed at the same time, and depending on the layout/design of the engine can be a major pain in the rear end to do. Definitely something you'll want to have done if you're unsure of when the last change was made, if your car has an interference engine (valves & pistons occupy the same physical space at different times) you could be looking at a several thousand dollar repair if the belt breaks while driving. CEL coming on is almost undoubtedly unrelated unless they left something disconnected. If you live in any state but California go to a chain parts store and have them pull the code to see what is wrong.
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Mar 19, 2015 20:43
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'97 Olds 88 with the 4T60E transmission. Doesn't want to go into reverse. It seems like the revs have to be in a VERY specific range for the reverse clutch to engage, and I can hear a squeak when it does so. If I let it sit in R and hold the brake, I can hear a quasi-rhythmic squeaking that pulses in time with transmission engagement. Is this fixable just by dropping the pan off and tightening some band? Will a transmission flush fix this? Should I just drive this until the transmission stops working then replace the transmission?
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Mar 19, 2015 21:24
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The check engine light came on in my 2005 Pontiac G6 today, so I took it for an inspection. The mechanics determined that 'the thermostat is stuck open. also found the EGR valve not opening all the way'. They wanted over $600 to replace the EGR valve with 'upgraded parts' and a fuel system cleaning, which I politely said gently caress that to. I don't have a ton of hands-on experience with cars, but I've managed to replace my headlights twice now with no problems (this model requires the entire headlight assembly to be removed so it's not as simple as in other cars) and I've always been good with my hands and piecing things together; is it super difficult to replace the thermostat and clean the EGR valve myself? Additional question: I have my own garage now and would like to start doing common car maintenance stuff (oil changes, etc) myself, what do I need to buy to assemble a good 'starter kit' for automotive maintenance?
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Mar 20, 2015 01:56
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GobiasIndustries posted:Additional question: I have my own garage now and would like to start doing common car maintenance stuff (oil changes, etc) myself, what do I need to buy to assemble a good 'starter kit' for automotive maintenance? If there's a Harbor Freight near you, get a cheap set of sockets and screwdrivers, a hammer or two, maybe a breaker bar. Once you start doing some work, you'll see what tools you'll need beyond that or what you use often enough to warrant an upgrade. Very importantly, buy a set of jack stands before getting under the car. I'd also budget a decent jack as it makes life so much easier. And check out the tools thread! http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2788369
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Mar 20, 2015 02:05
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GobiasIndustries posted:The check engine light came on in my 2005 Pontiac G6 today, so I took it for an inspection. The mechanics determined that 'the thermostat is stuck open. also found the EGR valve not opening all the way'. They wanted over $600 to replace the EGR valve with 'upgraded parts' and a fuel system cleaning, which I politely said gently caress that to. I don't have a ton of hands-on experience with cars, but I've managed to replace my headlights twice now with no problems (this model requires the entire headlight assembly to be removed so it's not as simple as in other cars) and I've always been good with my hands and piecing things together; is it super difficult to replace the thermostat and clean the EGR valve myself? EGR not opening all the way could be just a cracked vacuum line to the EGR. I'd check there first. Do you know what the Check engine light code was? Did they tell you how they determined the thermo was stuck open? For tools I'd just go with a mechanics tool set on sale from Sears or Harbor Freight and a jack and pair of jackstands.
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Mar 20, 2015 02:36
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Uthor posted:If there's a Harbor Freight near you, get a cheap set of sockets and screwdrivers, a hammer or two, maybe a breaker bar. Once you start doing some work, you'll see what tools you'll need beyond that or what you use often enough to warrant an upgrade. Thanks! We've got plenty of them here (Denver) so I'll check them out over the weekend. Senior Funkenstien posted:EGR not opening all the way could be just a cracked vacuum line to the EGR. I'd check there first. Do you know what the Check engine light code was? Did they tell you how they determined the thermo was stuck open? The two codes listed on the work inventory they gave me are 'P0128-Thermostat Issue' and 'P0401-EGR Insufficient Flow'. I didn't ask how they determined the problem for either, unfortunately, but I did at least make sure I wrote down the codes (wasn't sure if they'd be included on the work receipt).
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Mar 20, 2015 02:44
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GobiasIndustries posted:The two codes listed on the work inventory they gave me are 'P0128-Thermostat Issue' and 'P0401-EGR Insufficient Flow'. I didn't ask how they determined the problem for either, unfortunately, but I did at least make sure I wrote down the codes (wasn't sure if they'd be included on the work receipt). Buy yourself some new gaskets for the EGR. Take it off and hose the ports down with carb cleaner is the usual way to clean it maybe some qtips to reach inside. Not a hard job from what I've seen. The thermo can be hard depending on where its located and of course you do need to drain the cooling system to do it. What engine is in your G6? Edit: Here's the codes on the OBD-II page. http://www.obd-codes.com/p0401 http://www.obd-codes.com/p0128 Senior Funkenstien fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Mar 20, 2015 |
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Mar 20, 2015 03:21
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GobiasIndustries posted:Thanks! We've got plenty of them here (Denver) so I'll check them out over the weekend. They're also one of the few email lists that's worth being on. They regularly send out "buy anything, get this flashlight/magnetic screw tray/telescoping tool/whatever" free coupons, or one for 20% off.
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Mar 20, 2015 04:05
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The saga of my step-daughter's car (with the bent wheel) continues. While removing it last night I discovered some monkeyhanded dogfucker had crossthreaded two of the lugnuts. Is this what I need to get the studs out, or do I need something with only one "side?" Car is a 2000 Toyota Solara, and it is a front wheel, if that matters.
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Mar 20, 2015 13:42
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What is the sheet seal in a door interior called? Also, if I gently caress mine up, can I replace it with 3 mil sheeting and exterior-grade double-sided mounting tape? Seems like it might be too bulky. Once the weather gets nice again, I plan to take the passenger door apart and see just how broken the manual lock mechanism is and what components I need to order. As I posted a long time ago, some genius took my antenna mast and tried to pop out my lock cylinder with it, so it's loose (currently unusable and stuck back in the door with caulk) and the surrounding door is slightly damaged. 
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Mar 20, 2015 14:43
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saint gerald posted:The saga of my step-daughter's car (with the bent wheel) continues. While removing it last night I discovered some monkeyhanded dogfucker had crossthreaded two of the lugnuts. Did you get the lug nuts off? If so all you really need to do is remove the rotor and then drive the lugs out of the hub with a hammer, taking care to tap them out instead of going to town on them with a sledge hammer (beating on the hub and attached parts isn't the best thing for the bearings.) Installation of new lugs can be done either the same way or use a pile of washers and a lug nut to pull them back into the hub.
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Mar 20, 2015 15:10
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Geoj posted:Did you get the lug nuts off? If so all you really need to do is remove the rotor and then drive the lugs out of the hub with a hammer, taking care to tap them out instead of going to town on them with a sledge hammer (beating on the hub and attached parts isn't the best thing for the bearings.) Installation of new lugs can be done either the same way or use a pile of washers and a lug nut to pull them back into the hub. Oh, that's not so bad. I indeed removed the lug nuts, although both came with a bonus small piece of stud. There's probably enough still there to get a lugnut to bite, but this is the stepdaughter's car and if the wheel falls off she will probably die horribly. Is it OK to just replace the two that were cross-threaded, or should I do all five? The other three were not overly tight (in fact, they were a bit on the loose side).
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Mar 20, 2015 15:24
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JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:Are there any other considerations I should be thinking of? If you have even the slightest desire to do things yourself beyond the standard oil change (which it seems like you do), the first thing you should buy is the factory service manual(s) for your car. Not Haines/Chilton, but the real service manuals that shops use - quick ebay, but there are probably plenty of other sources with a more recent vehicle. I got the FSMs for my 88, and I've literally saved thousands and picked up a new hobby by doing the work myself (and before I started, I literally couldn't even name what the different things were under the hood) A 3/8" torque wrench should also be on your list - 1/2" is useful for making sure your wheels have the right torque, but they're usually too unweildy for use in tight areas, and most of your sockets will probably be 3/8" size. Also get used to ordering from rockauto.com - Autozone/etc are still useful for occasional items that don't have a huge price difference or that you need RIGHT NOW, but most of the time you'll see that a $50 price from a local store is $12ish on rockauto
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Mar 20, 2015 15:31
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saint gerald posted:Is it OK to just replace the two that were cross-threaded, or should I do all five? The other three were not overly tight (in fact, they were a bit on the loose side). As long as the other three thread onto the lugs smoothly they'll be fine.
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Mar 20, 2015 15:41
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Senior Funkenstien posted:What engine is in your G6? Thanks for the code pages, that's definitely helpful! Looks like it's this one: http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_High_Value_engine#LX9
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Mar 20, 2015 16:18
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I see the 600$ truck thread has fallen into the archives, so maybe this is the next best place to ask this... What's the best way to get the correct amount of current from the battery to the starter relay (bypassing the ignition switch)? For reference, the car in question an '88 F150 (351, automatic). I've shotgunned parts into most of the starting system (new starter motor/solenoid, starter relay, ignition switch) and I still can't get it to start without manually bridging the starter relay (eg chucking a ratchet between the relay terminals till it cranks over). The previous owner bypassed the ignition switch with a wire/spade shoved up in an empty fuse slot, hooked up to a button on the dash, which then goes through the firewall and to the starter relay. Normally, you just turn the key, which actuates the fuel pump, etc, and sends current to the fuse slot, which in turn sends juice to the relay when you hit the button, cranking the starter. Lately this workaround has been intermittent at best, and I've had to manually bridge the relay to get the starter to crank. I've checked continuity on the wire and the switch, and that all looks good. I've also checked to make sure the spade is making good contact with the empty fuse slot, and that looks good as well. Oh, I've also checked the ignition actuator (rod that transfers movement from the lock cylinder to the switch, apparently prone to breakage) and there's no problems there. Basically, turning the key does most of the startup process, but won't crank the starter without a bypass or manual intervention in the starter relay. Any thoughts or suggestions are much appreciated!
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Mar 20, 2015 17:39
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OSU_Matthew posted:What's the best way to get the correct amount of current from the battery to the starter relay (bypassing the ignition switch)? If it does crank like this, but won't on the key, I'd say duff wiring from the ignition switch, or something like a shifter interlock microswitch or old immobiliser is interfering.
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Mar 20, 2015 17:53
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Arriviste posted:What is the sheet seal in a door interior called? Vapor barrier is the most common name for it, I think. I've never managed to muck one up so bad that it couldn't be mostly jammmed back into place, but ultimately it is just some plastic sheeting. As long as it doesn't get in the way of anything I don't see what would be wrong with your proposed replacement. GobiasIndustries posted:Thanks for the code pages, that's definitely helpful! Looks like it's this one: http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_High_Value_engine#LX9 As far as the P0128 - really, the only two things that can cause that are either a bad engine coolant temperature sensor, or a bad thermostat. Is it running like absolute poo poo and spitting fuel out of the exhaust? Then it's probably not the coolant temperature sensor, especially since the computer should also throw a code for that too. If you really want to be sure it's not the sensor, you'd need a scan tool that can show you the actual sensor values. Then you just park the car overnight so that it's stone cold, and check the readings on the coolant temperature sensor versus the intake air temperature sensor. Both should be about equal to each other, as well as roughly equal to the ambient temperature. If the coolant sensor is reading like -30 when it's 50 degrees out, the sensor is bad. With that said... it's almost never the sensor, thermostats are just stupid lovely little things that like to fail. It looks like it's not too bad to get to, at least - some people just take it off, some people remove a couple of hoses right above it, and at least one person decided to just pull the headlight and go after it that way. The actual replacement is just removing a hose and a couple bolts, removing the old thermostat, installing the new one, and filling the whole mess back up with fresh coolant. OSU_Matthew posted:What's the best way to get the correct amount of current from the battery to the starter relay (bypassing the ignition switch)? My gut reaction is that the switch may be wearing out / building up too much internal resistance, or some connection somewhere along the way has come loose. Is the switch actually rated for somewhere in the ballpark of 30A?
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Mar 20, 2015 18:03
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InitialDave posted:If you attach a wire to the solenoid's low-current/switch-on terminal, that which is normally connected to the ignition switch's "start" position, and touch it to the positive battery terminal, the starter should crank. If it doesn't, you have a duff starter, solenoid, or main power wiring (the first and last sound unlikely, as you say shorting the starter terminals works). Thanks! That's a great idea! I never thought about running a wire from there--seems like that'll work a whole heckuva lot better than pulling power from the fuse slot. I'm gonna try that when I get off work tonight--I'll letcha know how it turns out. edit quote:My gut reaction is that the switch may be wearing out / building up too much internal resistance, or some connection somewhere along the way has come loose. Is the switch actually rated for somewhere in the ballpark of 30A? The relay switch is brand new from NAPA for that specific model... I just asked for the part at the store, I haven't researched to see if perhaps that's what is shorting out. I'll try getting current from the post on the relay, and see how that works vv -- I'm bridging the terminal posts (where you connect positive from the battery, and the power to the starter). I think InitialDave is spot on with there being a short or something in the wiring from/to the ignition switch, and the PO fuckery needs a better source for current to in the bypass setup. Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Mar 20, 2015 |
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Mar 20, 2015 18:05
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OSU_Matthew posted:I see the 600$ truck thread has fallen into the archives, so maybe this is the next best place to ask this... When you bridge the relay with a ratchet, are you bridging the switch contacts, or the load contacts? If the former, it's wiring or the PO-installed switch. You can probably unscrew the switch from the dash and pull it out enough to bridge the contacts on the back to test the wiring. If the latter, it's the relay or something downstream of the relay.
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Mar 20, 2015 18:36
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IOwnCalculus posted:As far as the P0128 - really, the only two things that can cause that are either a bad engine coolant temperature sensor, or a bad thermostat. Is it running like absolute poo poo and spitting fuel out of the exhaust? Then it's probably not the coolant temperature sensor, especially since the computer should also throw a code for that too. If you really want to be sure it's not the sensor, you'd need a scan tool that can show you the actual sensor values. Then you just park the car overnight so that it's stone cold, and check the readings on the coolant temperature sensor versus the intake air temperature sensor. Both should be about equal to each other, as well as roughly equal to the ambient temperature. If the coolant sensor is reading like -30 when it's 50 degrees out, the sensor is bad. Yeah the car has been running 100% fine recently; the only thing I had to do was replace the battery ~1 month ago. Occasionally it takes a 2nd try to start but I haven't noticed anything at all while driving the car, which is why I was so shocked at the original bill. Sorry for all the stupid questions, but I've got another: I'm just going to buy a new thermostat since they're so cheap, but what kind do I need? I checked AutoZone and they have some that say 195F and others that say 180F, what is the difference?
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Mar 20, 2015 22:37
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GobiasIndustries posted:Sorry for all the stupid questions, but I've got another: I'm just going to buy a new thermostat since they're so cheap, but what kind do I need? I checked AutoZone and they have some that say 195F and others that say 180F, what is the difference? The temperature they open at. You want the one that is listed as the stock temperature, which is likely going to ben 195 if those are the only two choices you saw.
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Mar 20, 2015 22:51
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A good friend just got into a car accident, she got rear ended and her car is totaled. I have a car that I'm not using, and she needs a car for a month till her insurance company helps her out. I planned on donating my car to a local church because someone recently got me a newer car. Can I let her use my car without transferring it on her name and let her use her own insurance? I really need that tax credit. Also am I obliged to fix stuff on the car? It needs to be registered and needs new tires and an alignment. b0nes fucked around with this message at 09:05 on Mar 21, 2015 |
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Mar 21, 2015 07:44
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IOwnCalculus posted:Vapor barrier is the most common name for it, I think. I've never managed to muck one up so bad that it couldn't be mostly jammmed back into place, but ultimately it is just some plastic sheeting. As long as it doesn't get in the way of anything I don't see what would be wrong with your proposed replacement. Thanks! I've got several little things that need tending on this dd truck and, without a garage--or even a shade tree--I've got to make sure my ducks are in a row before I start taking things apart. Top of the list: reading ECU error codes and opening up the instrument cluster to look for the speedo gremlin.
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Mar 21, 2015 14:37
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Any tips on shipping a car cross-country? There's like a billion tiny brokers out there and it's real hard to figure what the best way to do things.
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Mar 21, 2015 17:49
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b0nes posted:A good friend just got into a car accident, she got rear ended and her car is totaled. I have a car that I'm not using, and she needs a car for a month till her insurance company helps her out. I planned on donating my car to a local church because someone recently got me a newer car. Can I let her use my car without transferring it on her name and let her use her own insurance? I really need that tax credit. You can loan a car you own to someone. Your insurance is usually what covers them. Check the fine print of your policy to determine exactly how long you can loan a car to someone before you have to tell the insurance company and/or add them to your policy. If she wants her insurance to cover her, she'll have to register the car with her insurance company and pay the premium. It is not ethical to loan a car to someone that you know isn't safe to drive. I don't know what you mean by "obliged" exactly; legally, obviously the car has to be roadworthy according to the laws of your state irrespective of who is driving it, but gently caress the law, don't give a car to someone that you know isn't safe to drive regardless. It should not take her insurance a month to assess the car's damage, total it out, and send her a check! A week is more typical. The key question you asked, though: no, you don't have to transfer ownership to her in order for her to drive it. Either it can be on your insurance, or she can get insured, but ownership isn't necessary for her in either case.
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Mar 21, 2015 18:00
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I own a 9 year old BMW 630i sport and got a flat tire on my right rear. The front tires also need changing for the MOT in May. Its the first time I have had to change a tire on this car and thought I would go all 4. Then I saw the cost  I have 2 questions, 1; Is there any problem replacing the run flats with normal tires ? I was thinking of just running regular tires and getting one of those tire fix kits, as run flat seem far more expensive than some premium tires. and 2; Is it worth getting budget tires like Accelera Phi-2 ? For reference the fronts are 245/40/R19 and the rear are 275/35/R19 and the Accelera are half the price of dunlops, hancooks, etc. I don't drive like a tool much, apart from the odd traffic light showdown and speeding through lanes on a hot sunny day (but not at or near the limit) and do 10k miles a year mixed motorways/country lanes/town driving. Currently I am running potenzas (which were on the car when I bought it). I checked some forums etc and some people say its fine, and the others seem to think I will be signing my own death warrant.
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Mar 21, 2015 18:01
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Mange Mite posted:Any tips on shipping a car cross-country? There's like a billion tiny brokers out there and it's real hard to figure what the best way to do things. Make sure the shipper fully insures you against damage. Take extensive pictures of the car from every angle, documenting every scratch and ding and dent that's already there, and make sure they know you've done this.
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Mar 21, 2015 18:02
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09 Pontiac Vibe 2.4L(Toyota 2AZ-FE) AWD 115k I was just playing around with my new OBDII scanner and I noticed this: Foot off the pedal:   Pedal to the floor:   I've done a very stupid thing once or twice in the past, when cleaning the throttle body I forced it open by hand (it's an electric) instead of using the gas pedal. Note: I've had these recalls done http://www.cars.com/recalls/pontiac/vibe/2009/ I don't think they would go in and nerf my gas pedal, but who knows? I've noticed that it will intermittently, when I stomp on the gas, have some decent pull and go, but most of the time it just slowly gets up to speed. Basically I'm wondering if I need to replace the TB or the pedal sensor? Or is there something else going on?
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Mar 21, 2015 18:05
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Leperflesh posted:Make sure the shipper fully insures you against damage. Take extensive pictures of the car from every angle, documenting every scratch and ding and dent that's already there, and make sure they know you've done this. Do you know any particularly big/reputable services or is it more local?
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Mar 21, 2015 18:10
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WesleyPipes posted:I have 2 questions, 1; Is there any problem replacing the run flats with normal tires ? I was thinking of just running regular tires and getting one of those tire fix kits, as run flat seem far more expensive than some premium tires. First question - no, it doesn't do any harm running normal tires in place of run-flats. In fact you might actually like how the car rides and handles on normal tires. Run-flats have very stiff sidewalls, which can negatively affect both of those characteristics. Second question - personally, I don't skimp on tires, especially on a daily driver. As tired as the saying is, your tires are the only part of your vehicle that touches the road and they are a critical safety system. Budget brand tires are often not as well engineered as name brand tires, which could have a serious negative effect on wet and dry traction, and in the long run the the cheap rubber compounds they use can cause your tires to wear out fast enough that you would have been better off with the name brands.
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Mar 21, 2015 18:26
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Mange Mite posted:Do you know any particularly big/reputable services or is it more local? I don't, sorry. I've read about other goons' shipping horror stories in AI, and the insurance thing and photos thing has been important.
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Mar 21, 2015 18:32
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Omglosser posted:09 Pontiac Vibe 2.4L(Toyota 2AZ-FE) AWD 115k Are you revving the car in neutral? Things don't work the same in neutral as in drive so you really need to look at the current data whilst driving. The ecu knows there's no load and you're just revving it for shits and giggles so it won't open the TB properly and some cars even cap the revs around 4,500rpm so you don't blow the engine up like a dumbass. I've never worked on a vibe but my toyota experience has shown me that 2az's (and modern toyotas in general) are just really sluggish and unresponsive at the best of times. Unless you had the ignition on when you were cleaning the TB, you couldn't have hurt anything; I've done it dozens of times with no issues. You can't force the TB open using the gas pedal, it doesn't work that way. The ecu doesn't open the TB proportionate to the percentage the gas pedal is depressed. It instead calculates the amount of torque you're demanding from the engine (your accelerator pedal is actually a torque pedal) and opens the TB however much is necessary to reach that result. Torque percentage and TB opening percentage are not linear. Or are you expecting both accelerator position percentages to be the same? Cause that's normal. What do you actually think is wrong with your car, if anything? MrChips posted:First question - no, it doesn't do any harm running normal tires in place of run-flats. In fact you might actually like how the car rides and handles on normal tires. Run-flats have very stiff sidewalls, which can negatively affect both of those characteristics. Runflats are terrible and your car will feel and drive a million times better with ordinary tyres. Your car should have a tyre pump thingy in the boot cavity where the spare tyre would go on a conventional car. That's been my experience with every run-flat equipped BMW I've seen, but the UK might be different. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Mar 21, 2015 |
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Mar 21, 2015 20:16
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Leperflesh posted:You can loan a car you own to someone. Your insurance is usually what covers them. Check the fine print of your policy to determine exactly how long you can loan a car to someone before you have to tell the insurance company and/or add them to your policy. When I was talking about ethics I wasn't trying to imply the car would explode on impact. It's safe to drive but it really could use some tires in the future, and an alignment.
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Mar 21, 2015 20:23
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Mange Mite posted:Any tips on shipping a car cross-country? There's like a billion tiny brokers out there and it's real hard to figure what the best way to do things. My friend just bought a car from the east coast. Holy gently caress is it loving expensive. he paid more to ship the car than it was worth.
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Mar 21, 2015 20:25
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WesleyPipes posted:I own a 9 year old BMW 630i sport and got a flat tire on my right rear. The front tires also need changing for the MOT in May. One of the biggest things you can do to improve the ride and handling on newer BMWs with runflats is replacing them with non-runflats. Lots of people do it as soon as they get the car because the car drives so much better on non-runflats
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Mar 21, 2015 20:46
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