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So, with a polished crank and a completely new set of bearings ordered by the shop that polished the crank, how necessary is it to plastigage all this poo poo as I put it together? Dude at the shop said it was unnecessary, but they mostly work on racing engines so I'm not sure if that's spillover from the world where engines come apart every few months anyway. This is for a Jeep 4.0 rebuild, by the way.
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Mar 24, 2015 04:06
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Raluek posted:Yeah looks like the bolt has red loctite on the bottom of the bolt-head and on the threads, so heat is required. What's the deal with taking the rear main seal part of the engine apart? Looks like I'll have to get in there to get the crank out. IIRC it's possible to pry out the seal individually and get a replacement but the genuine 'proper' way of doing it is to buy the whole alloy surround thing with the seal already in. If yours isn't leaking, just unbolt the little cover by itself and make sure to lube the crank before slipping it back on later, otherwise you can kink the lip of the seal. EightBit posted:So, with a polished crank and a completely new set of bearings ordered by the shop that polished the crank, how necessary is it to plastigage all this poo poo as I put it together? Dude at the shop said it was unnecessary, but they mostly work on racing engines so I'm not sure if that's spillover from the world where engines come apart every few months anyway. I would've thought being for a jeep 4.0 would make plastigage unnecessary 
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Mar 24, 2015 09:18
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Slavvy posted:IIRC it's possible to pry out the seal individually and get a replacement but the genuine 'proper' way of doing it is to buy the whole alloy surround thing with the seal already in. If yours isn't leaking, just unbolt the little cover by itself and make sure to lube the crank before slipping it back on later, otherwise you can kink the lip of the seal. Alright, I'll just leave it alone, then. If it was straightforward to replace the seal by itself I'd think it would be stupid to not do it while the engine is out, but if it's a pain then I'll skip it.
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Mar 24, 2015 09:24
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Speaking of steering feel, I've got some slight oscillating in my steering wheel at 60+mph. What I mean is I can feel the steering wheel alternate between pulling slightly left and right, and the speed it alternates changes with vehicle speed. Is this a needs alignment/worn out rubber suspension bits issue? Car is 2001 ford zx2. I've got worn suspension bushings and this happens to me, too. I had the car up and the passenger side one is pretty well shot. It just means the wheels don't always point where you are aiming them. I figure I'll replace everything if I ever get around to replacing the steering rack. Probably sometime after the transmission explodes.
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Mar 24, 2015 18:03
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My check engine light came on, and the places around here charge about $30-$60 bucks to pull the code and see whats wrong. I'm a bit strapped on cash right now. Assuming I'm basically not driving it at all, will it be ok to not get this looked at for a week or two?
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Mar 24, 2015 19:25
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No autozone/advance auto/pep boys near you? Do you have an android phone? Just buy a bluetooth obdii reader for $13 on amazon and the torque app for $5. If the CEL was blinking then don't drive it at all, if it was just steady light it could be anything from a loose gas cap to an exhaust leak.
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Mar 24, 2015 19:46
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JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:My check engine light came on, and the places around here charge about $30-$60 bucks to pull the code and see whats wrong. I'm a bit strapped on cash right now. Assuming I'm basically not driving it at all, will it be ok to not get this looked at for a week or two? There's often a sequence of key turns etc that can make the car display the codes to you.
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Mar 24, 2015 20:21
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Decided to just deal with the ballache of using plastigage. Main bearings are good, gotta get the crank installed proper and do the piston checks.
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Mar 24, 2015 21:01
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I'm looking at used RX350s. A volume dealer here has a lot of 2-3 year old models that were bought on auction from out of state. Even with carfax and autocheck is there considerable risk of title, flood, repair etc shennanigans? It just seems odd to me that 2/3'rds of their used inventory is sourced from out of state auction to CO but I don't know if that's normal, or what the risk is.
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Mar 24, 2015 21:10
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I have a 97 Honda Civic. The e-brake light comes on when I accelerate. I think I've had this problem before, and I think the solution was to add Dot3 brake fluid to the brake fluid container. Am I right?
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Mar 24, 2015 21:10
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Liam Emsa posted:I have a 97 Honda Civic. The e-brake light comes on when I accelerate. I think I've had this problem before, and I think the solution was to add Dot3 brake fluid to the brake fluid container. Am I right? I've had low brake fluid trigger the brake warning light before, but if this has happened before there is probably an underlying issue. I would give your brakes a look over to make sure there is plenty of pad/rotor left.
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Mar 24, 2015 21:39
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Slavvy posted:IIRC it's possible to pry out the seal individually and get a replacement but the genuine 'proper' way of doing it is to buy the whole alloy surround thing with the seal already in. If yours isn't leaking, just unbolt the little cover by itself and make sure to lube the crank before slipping it back on later, otherwise you can kink the lip of the seal. Re-visiting this, it looks like there is a special ($$$) tool to align the rear cover to the block and oil pan rails. Knowing my luck, I'd gently caress it up somehow, not having the correct tools. Leaving the main bearings alone is looking more and more enticing...
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Mar 24, 2015 22:07
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Liam Emsa posted:I have a 97 Honda Civic. The e-brake light comes on when I accelerate. I think I've had this problem before, and I think the solution was to add Dot3 brake fluid to the brake fluid container. Am I right? The solution is to find out why your brake fluid is low because that's what's triggering the light. Brake fluid isn't consumed so the only way the level can get low is if your pads/discs are so worn that enough volume gets displaced to run the reservoir dry, or you have a leak somewhere. Both of these are Very Bad so you should probably check that out. Raluek posted:Re-visiting this, it looks like there is a special ($$$) tool to align the rear cover to the block and oil pan rails. Knowing my luck, I'd gently caress it up somehow, not having the correct tools. Leaving the main bearings alone is looking more and more enticing... They're probably alright.
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Mar 24, 2015 22:14
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Slavvy posted:They're probably alright. They are if they're anything like the rod bearings. Oh well, what's the worst that could happen, right?
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Mar 24, 2015 23:00
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InitialDave posted:What car is it? Oh right, I posted in this thread and didn't realize it was 80+ new posts since my old one. My bad! It's a 2003 Honda CIVIC EX Cage posted:No autozone/advance auto/pep boys near you? I'll find an autozone/advance auto/pep boys. They'll do it for free? The light is just on, not blinking.
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Mar 25, 2015 00:39
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JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:Oh right, I posted in this thread and didn't realize it was 80+ new posts since my old one. My bad! Parts places will do it for free as long as you're not in California, where there's a law saying that you can't get it cleared by anyone unless they're licensed or something. It's supposed to stop people clearing their own codes before smog checks I think, ignoring the fact that if you clear your codes that will show up on the smog check and you won't pass it because you haven't done enough drive cycles.
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Mar 25, 2015 00:59
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Memento posted:Parts places will do it for free as long as you're not in California, where there's a law saying that you can't get it cleared by anyone unless they're licensed or something. It's supposed to stop people clearing their own codes before smog checks I think, ignoring the fact that if you clear your codes that will show up on the smog check and you won't pass it because you haven't done enough drive cycles. I talked to an AutoZone rep about this; it has to do with performing work without providing an invoice. This violates on of the rules of the Auto Repair Board or something.
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Mar 25, 2015 01:06
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So I just bought a car, and it has winter tires on steelies with some stupid looking plastic hubcaps on them. I legitimately had to google how to take off hubcaps. Never had a car with them before, is that weird?
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Mar 25, 2015 01:48
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I've only owned one car that didn't have hubcaps. FWIW, some cars have the hubcaps held on either by the lugnuts (Honda comes to mind, they have a plastic piece near the base of the lugnuts that holds them on) or plastic "lugnuts" that thread into the real lugnuts (GM).
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Mar 25, 2015 02:14
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some texas redneck posted:I've only owned one car that didn't have hubcaps. Or like the old town cars, held by a keyed bolt onto a hat type structure, which in turn is held on by the lug nuts. Biggest pain in the rear end rotation I ever did.
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Mar 25, 2015 02:57
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Almost forgot - I've had 2 with alloys - my 88 Accord LXi. That car was such a miserable pile that I'd forgotten about it. 90-93 Accord EXs had a locking lugnut cover on the alloys - of course, it just took the ignition key to unlock them, but if they'd been locked for a long time, good luck unlocking them. I want to say it was optional on the 86-89 Accord LXi/SEi and 88-91 Prelude Si as well.
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Mar 25, 2015 03:30
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JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:I'll find an autozone/advance auto/pep boys. They'll do it for free? Really, buy a well-reviewed bluetooth OBD dongle from Amazon and buy Torque (or the Apple equivalent as I'm sure there's one) and pull all the codes you want for ~$20. It's definitely worth it just to be able to Google your exact code and find people with the same issues/fixes. Takes five minutes to set up and I've used that combo to troubleshoot/clear dumb lights on my BMW. Plus if you want to get nerdy you can set up cool dashboards on your phone that spin and move as you drive to impress
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Mar 25, 2015 06:03
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 Apple has locked down bluetooth to the point that the BT adapters don't work on iOS.You need a wifi version for iPhone/iPad/etc.
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Mar 25, 2015 06:14
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some texas redneck posted:
I was going to post a scathing burn on Apple here, but my S5 took five seconds to switch between apps and crashed a core process. Thanks Lollipop.
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Mar 25, 2015 06:22
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LP has been a clusterfuck of its own, even stock LP 5.1 has issues with streaming music on my phone (cuts out every 10 minutes for a few seconds).  And that's on a Nexus device...
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Mar 25, 2015 06:36
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I'll take the infrequently broken updates over Apple's  approach to consumer electronics, it's a loving pocket-sized computer, not just a toy.
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Mar 25, 2015 06:52
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I'm loyal to Motorola phones since Ive had my maxx. Its been rock solid. No idea how Samsung has become so huge since almost everything ive owned from them has been crusty poo poo. But yeah, a cheap Bluetooth obd and torque is a nice thing to have. Good for reading and clearing codes. Also neat for me because I have a blower yet my car has no boost guage. I kind of enjoy seeing that thing swing up and down. Its more like a fun level indicator.
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Mar 25, 2015 07:51
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Note, the passcode to my knockoff dongle was 6789 or 4567 or something, not 0000 like standard. This wasn't documented and I thought it was broken for awhile.
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Mar 25, 2015 11:54
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Geirskogul posted:Note, the passcode to my knockoff dongle was 6789 or 4567 or something, not 0000 like standard. This wasn't documented and I thought it was broken for awhile. Mine was just like the passcode to my luggage 
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Mar 25, 2015 16:12
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I want to get a vehicle as a donor for a project - but I want one that's already running. A lot of the stuff in my price range is pretty high miles, for example a '97 ford 7.5 liter v-8 with 200k on it. If I were to buy a truck like that and drive it around for a while to determine how the motor is, and then do a simple gasket job would that be a decent way to get a few reliable miles out of it? I'm thinking stuff like oil pan gasket, rear main seal, head gasket, intake/exhaust, etc. Probably the timing chain and water pump while it's out as well? e: this one for example http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/cto/4945296995.html Or do I need to replace rings and other stupid bullshit? Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Mar 25, 2015 |
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Mar 25, 2015 16:34
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Issue: Rear passenger power lock makes a horrific, loud, scary grinding noise when it activates to the locked position. Problem: I don't know which part to buy so that a friend of a friend can replace it on the cheap. Car: 2009 Honda CR-V VIN: Begins with "J" This is the closest I've gotten: Category: CR-V / 2.4L L4 / Electrical-Switch & Relay / Door Jamb Switch http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=935752&cc=1443927&jnid=437&jpid=1 and my friend found this: http://www.jcwhitney.com/2007-2009-honda-cr-v/door-lock-actuator/p3038905d9015y2007-2009j1.jcwx Suave Fedora fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Mar 25, 2015 |
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Mar 25, 2015 18:43
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Suave Fedora posted:Issue: Rear passenger power lock makes a horrific, loud, scary grinding noise when it activates to the locked position. It's the second one.
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Mar 25, 2015 18:59
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Astonishing Wang posted:I want to get a vehicle as a donor for a project - but I want one that's already running. A lot of the stuff in my price range is pretty high miles, for example a '97 ford 7.5 liter v-8 with 200k on it. If I were to buy a truck like that and drive it around for a while to determine how the motor is, and then do a simple gasket job would that be a decent way to get a few reliable miles out of it? I'm thinking stuff like oil pan gasket, rear main seal, head gasket, intake/exhaust, etc. Probably the timing chain and water pump while it's out as well? I mean, you could go through and regasket everything, but unless it's pissing fluids I wouldn't see the benefit of it. Of the ones you mentioned, the head gasket and intake manifold gaskets are the only ones that can really fail in a way that will immediately and directly impact the engine's ability to run. The rest of them, the engine may make a mess, but as long as you can keep enough oil and water in it, the engine will still run the same. I don't think big-block Fords are particularly prone to making GBS threads head gaskets unless you overheat the gently caress out of it anyway, like any other engine, and godawful intake manifold gaskets causing massive coolant / vacuum leaks are usually a GM thing. Unless it's pissing fluid everywhere, you'd see the best return-on-investment (both cost and time) from replacing worn out suspension and interior components.
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Mar 25, 2015 19:09
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Slavvy posted:It's the second one. On the same page, just to the right of the image, under "SELECT VEHICLE" I punched in my car make and model (CR-V EX) just to be on the safe side and now the site says in red block lettering "This product does not fit your 2009 Honda CR-V EX" This is why I never graduated beyond changing oil filters. this has to be it http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM...06718df&vxp=mtr Suave Fedora fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Mar 25, 2015 |
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Mar 25, 2015 20:08
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Why don't you just take the old one out and punch the part number into google.
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Mar 25, 2015 22:39
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Today, a wasp got into my car. I was trying to persuade it to get out of the car when it decided it would rather crawl into the gap between my steering column and the dashboard. He has yet to reappear. I took off a trim piece to get a better view but wasn't able to locate him. Beside making a ghetto wasp trap, any suggestions to get him out?
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Mar 26, 2015 01:57
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Ghetto wasp trap. Container with a funnel on top pointing inwards, with a slice of lunchmeat ham at the bottom.
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Mar 26, 2015 02:09
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Geirskogul posted:Ghetto wasp trap. Container with a funnel on top pointing inwards, with a slice of lunchmeat ham at the bottom. I've got one in there now. I'm hopeful he's not dead in there somewhere.
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Mar 26, 2015 02:13
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Wasps like ham, eh?
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Mar 26, 2015 03:40
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PaintVagrant posted:Wasps like ham, eh? God I hope not.
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