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PaintVagrant posted:Wasps like ham, eh? I used it plenty of times to refill my wasp traps (those yellow cones/cylinders you put bait into), and it works beautifully. I read about it somewhere years and years ago and turns out it works. There's probably something less-messy, but whatever.
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Mar 26, 2015 04:02
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OK. I think there is a major problem with my car. 2001 Ford Falcon AUII 4.0 straight six. Auto. Sedan. Grey. Right hand drive. 340,000 km on the clock. I noticed it a while back, a slight vibration in the steering wheel when at speed and turning right. Now when I turn a bit to the right, the front passenger disc makes a horrible grinding sound. Roundabouts are bad, or just doing a 3 point turn makes a terrible grinding noise. The more I turn the wheel, the worse it sounds. When I apply the brakes and I’m going straight, they make no noise and stop the car. I jacked it up today and looked at the disc. The inner side of the disc is completely hosed. All gouged and scored badly. Tell me AI, what should I do?
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Mar 26, 2015 11:54
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Check your power steering level and see if you can find a leak from the hoses/rack/etc. Might not explain the shaking, but it easily explains the grinding/screeching sort of noise that steadily gets worse over time E: missed the part about the disc being hosed. Check your tie rods to see if they're worn or move too easily, maybe the one on the right got loose and is wider than it should be
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Mar 26, 2015 12:44
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Sentient Data posted:Check your power steering level and see if you can find a leak from the hoses/rack/etc. Might not explain the shaking, but it easily explains the grinding/screeching sort of noise that steadily gets worse over time I just replaced the power steering. It's metal on metal. Hardcore grinding.
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Mar 26, 2015 13:14
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Did you check for any play in your wheels in general? I'd be curious about your wheel bearings...
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Mar 26, 2015 14:26
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WesleyPipes posted:I own a 9 year old BMW 630i sport and got a flat tire on my right rear. The front tires also need changing for the MOT in May. Thanks for the advice guys! Due to a bank error not in my favour, I was without surplus funds to buy the tires till today, which gave me plenty of time to think, and have decided on Bridgestone run flats as I got a good price (£768) on all 4 fitted (from MrTiresLtd uk). I decided to stick with run flats as the suspension is set up for them and I like a firmer ride, although I don't know if there any snake oil in the first part of this sentence.
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Mar 26, 2015 14:55
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WesleyPipes posted:Thanks for the advice guys! Due to a bank error not in my favour, I was without surplus funds to buy the tires till today, which gave me plenty of time to think, and have decided on Bridgestone run flats as I got a good price (£768) on all 4 fitted (from MrTiresLtd uk). The suspension works better with non-runflats, it will both handle better and ride better. Total snake oil, get some Michelin Pilot Sports or Continental Extreme DWS and enjoy your vastly improved driving experience.
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Mar 26, 2015 16:05
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Blow posted:I just replaced the power steering. Did you check your brake pads...?
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Mar 26, 2015 18:55
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Stupid insurance question: My wife was backing up the car and hit the mailbox. The right rear quarter panel is dented and paint is gone. It's a 2011 Ford Explorer. She took it to a body shop and they said it would be over 500 to repair it with paint and dent removal, etc...I think they were going to replace the body panel. Anyways, my insurance deductible is $500 for collision and adds 350 to my annual premium. There's another deductible that is for theft and 'other than collision' which is only $300 and adds 90 to my premium. Would this fall under collision even though it wasn't an accident with another car?
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Mar 26, 2015 22:19
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I've always understood it to be where collision is what pays you if you do damage to your own car (i.e. this scenario) and comprehensive covers you for situations where it wasn't your fault, but there's not necessarily another party to blame. How do you figure the "adds $350 to my annual premium"? Are you reading your bill, because if so, that's not what making a claim would add to your premium - that's what you're paying for that coverage.
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Mar 26, 2015 22:59
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I always thought collision was for vehicle on vehicle accidents and comprehensive covered everything else. Probably a question best answered by the Insurance megathread.
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Mar 26, 2015 23:09
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IOwnCalculus posted:I've always understood it to be where collision is what pays you if you do damage to your own car (i.e. this scenario) and comprehensive covers you for situations where it wasn't your fault, but there's not necessarily another party to blame. You're right on that-i was reading it wrong. I pay 350 a year for that coverage.
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Mar 26, 2015 23:10
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Geoj posted:I always thought collision was for vehicle on vehicle accidents and comprehensive covered everything else. Collision is generally defined as the upset of a vehicle and covers everything not specifically listed as a comprehensive/other than collision loss. It's the catch all bucket.
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Mar 27, 2015 01:24
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If there's dent removal, they're probably not replacing the panel. Replacing the rear quarter panel would require cutting and welding. If it'll be less than $1000 to repair, you'll likely be better off paying cash compared to having your insurance increase at renewal. Of course, this depends on your state, your insurance carrier, and if you have accident forgiveness or not.
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Mar 27, 2015 02:53
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ssjonizuka posted:Did you check for any play in your wheels in general? I'd be curious about your wheel bearings... Yeah I'll do that. I thought it may be the bearings. I only have a really lovely jack and I'm loathe to get under the car. I'm also in a really hosed up place to work on a car. hill, traffic etc.
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Mar 27, 2015 04:40
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Slavvy posted:Did you check your brake pads...? The car stops fine with no noise when I am going straight.
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Mar 27, 2015 04:42
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Blow posted:The car stops fine with no noise when I am going straight. !!! You already said the inside of your brake discs is all scratched up! Why are you ignoring that.
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Mar 27, 2015 06:06
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Blow posted:I jacked it up today and looked at the disc. The inner side of the disc is completely hosed. All gouged and scored badly. Why does it seem like you're ignoring this? Even if your brakes work fine now, you should check this out? While on jacks, remove the tire and have someone turn the steering wheel while you're watching the inside of the assembly to figure out what is loving your disc, right? I mean even if the noise ends up being a turd wheel bearing I would be worried about the disc.
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Mar 27, 2015 06:56
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Blow posted:The car stops fine with no noise when I am going straight. Or, seeing as you literally only have to take one wheel off the car, you could check your brake pads?
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Mar 27, 2015 07:31
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Slavvy posted:Or, seeing as you literally only have to take one wheel off the car, you could check your brake pads? Here's my own stupid question: could you have a caliper stuck on one side? Like the inside is metal on metal and outside is okay?
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Mar 27, 2015 07:39
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You sure can! If the caliper slides are stuck, the outer pad will basically not wear at all whilst the piston grinds the inner one into nothingness.
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Mar 27, 2015 07:47
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I'm not driving the car. It's just hard to wrench on it where it currently is. Dunno if the brake disc is machinable. As I said, looks quite hosed. Needs more mechanic. Just more $$$.
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Mar 27, 2015 12:52
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Slavvy posted:Why don't you just take the old one out and punch the part number into google. I'm having someone else work on it. If I do anything to the car it will take me the normal time + 5 hours, and its our daily driver to work and I have two kids to take to daycare. He was able to find the OEM on Ebay so looks like I'm good there. Is there a rule of thumb on car detailing before you try to sell it? The car has wear and tear for a 7-year old vehicle, scratches, minor dents, and a pea-sized rust spot on front hood. My wife and I are arguing about whether we'll get back more than we put in when it comes to trade-in dealer or private party value. Suave Fedora fucked around with this message at 13:03 on Mar 27, 2015 |
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Mar 27, 2015 13:01
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Just do it yourself, don't pay a detailing company unless the car is in the 5-digit price range. Order an small bottle of an exact paint match from the dealer our online for around $15ish, vacuum and wash/wax it yourself, get a strong air freshener in there for a few days (but not too strong or it'll seem like you're hiding something), throw some rainx on the windows. Total cost is maybe $30ish and that's easy to reclaim from a sale
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Mar 27, 2015 13:48
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Thanks for the suggestions. The dealer offer range between $5.9k - $7.5k / private party $7.5 - $8.3. I actually have a small bottle of the paint I bought a long time ago when I thought I would try to take care of the rust spot myself, so I'll dab over the rust spot and see how it looks and apply it to a small scratch to see how that looks.
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Mar 27, 2015 14:23
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2 stupid questions. 1: When people say $10k on the hood of every truck, do they mean invoice-$10k in incentives, or MSRP-$10k of incentives? Big difference. 2: Can somebody explain all the different headlight poo poo? Halogen vs projector vs HID vs LED vs whatever-the-gently caress.
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Mar 27, 2015 16:50
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1. Usually MRSP-$10k, since it lets them say a bigger number of discounts than Invoice-$x. Headlights in a stupid-quick runthrough: First, lens / reflector type is independent of bulb type. There are halogen projectors and HID projectors, and yes there are even (rare) HID reflectors. The lens type does pretty much what it says on the name. Reflector-type bulbs use a shaped reflective surface to do much of the work to take the light from the bulb (which, in general, is leaving the bulb in all directions) to direct it forward in a pattern that's both more useful and meets local lighting regulations. The lens in front may also be shaped to help direct light where it needs to go, but in a lot of modern cars it's just there to be aerodynamic, clear, and protect the light. Relatively cheap to make, but larger and the cutoff at the top of the light pattern is usually not very sharp. Projectors use a more accurately shaped glass lens to do this work. Properly designed, you can get full bulb brightness right up to a razor-sharp cutoff. They take up less surface area on the front of the car, but need more depth, and tend to be considerably more expensive. Halogens are just high-powered incandescent bulbs. They still work by running electricity through a wire filament until it gets so hot that it glows. Simple, effective, and dirt cheap. HIDs actually use an arc between two electrodes to produce their light. Because you can't do that on 12V, they also have a ballast setup that generates the voltage they need to operate. Note that because the pattern of light emitted from the bulb varies based on the bulb type (HID vs Halogen), the bulb and housing need to be paired together. Installing HID bulbs into halogen projectors is just going to blind the gently caress out of oncoming traffic.
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Mar 27, 2015 17:15
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Halogen bulbs are the standard headlight bulb, cheap, but the light output tends to be a little low compared to HID or LED. HID bulbs are more like a fluorescent light compared to a halogen; they generate a much brighter point of light, but require carefully tuned optics to avoid blinding other drivers at night. LED bulbs are just LEDs, cranked up to provide light for your car; they consume less power and last longer, but are brand new and thus significantly more expensive. You can't just swap in HID or LED lighting without going through the trouble to change the reflector/projector setup in your fixtures, or you will cause vision problems for other people on the road and you will get less effective lighting. It's not legal to do so in many jurisdictions, anyway.
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Mar 27, 2015 17:20
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IOwnCalculus posted:1. Usually MRSP-$10k, since it lets them say a bigger number of discounts than Invoice-$x. EightBit posted:Halogen bulbs are the standard headlight bulb, cheap, but the light output tends to be a little low compared to HID or LED. HID bulbs are more like a fluorescent light compared to a halogen; they generate a much brighter point of light, but require carefully tuned optics to avoid blinding other drivers at night. LED bulbs are just LEDs, cranked up to provide light for your car; they consume less power and last longer, but are brand new and thus significantly more expensive. You can't just swap in HID or LED lighting without going through the trouble to change the reflector/projector setup in your fixtures, or you will cause vision problems for other people on the road and you will get less effective lighting. It's not legal to do so in many jurisdictions, anyway.
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Mar 27, 2015 17:22
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I have a 2013 honda civic coupe. I need to travel home with it from Florida to California. I have a fair amount of stuff so I was thinking about about getting a roof rack or trailer hitch with platform. Are either of these options terrible or is one better than the other? I was thinking that the roofrack might kill my mileage but the hitch and platform may cause problems because of ground clearance.
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Mar 27, 2015 22:19
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LingcodKilla posted:I have a 2013 honda civic coupe. I'd go with the roof rack personally - Every hitch platform that I've ever used (which was only 2, and both cheapos) was saggy and not very confidence inspiring. Stuff on a roof rack definitely won't help your aero but that's what I'd do.
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Mar 27, 2015 22:23
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Blow posted:I'm not driving the car. It's just hard to wrench on it where it currently is. Honestly even if they are machinable it's usually more cost effective to just put new rotors on.
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Mar 27, 2015 23:08
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LingcodKilla posted:I have a 2013 honda civic coupe. How much stuff? A good (e.g. Yakima, Thule) roof rack and a (quality, professionally installed) trailer cost about the same -- $400ish. The big difference is that a roof rack's capacity will top out around 100 lbs (100 exactly per http://installation.yakima.com/) , while the Civic can tow up to 1,100 lbs*. *Australian specifications. US Civics aren't rated to tow anything, but that's more of a cultural thing than anything. Also, don't tow 1,100 pounds for very long. Maybe 400-500 lbs is the most you'll want to actually try to tow for any kind of distance.
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Mar 28, 2015 00:53
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Safety Dance posted:How much stuff? A good (e.g. Yakima, Thule) roof rack and a (quality, professionally installed) trailer cost about the same -- $400ish. The big difference is that a roof rack's capacity will top out around 100 lbs (100 exactly per http://installation.yakima.com/) , while the Civic can tow up to 1,100 lbs*. Think I'll go with the roof rack. I think two seabags will fit up their just fine freeing up a good amount of room.
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Mar 28, 2015 01:23
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If a "fair amount" of stuff is enough to consider towing a trailer (especially mattresses or furniture), what about renting the smallest size moving truck and towing the car instead? e: Disregard, then. I did a move with a station wagon's roof rack and had no issues, I'd imagine it'll be just as easy if all you need is a couple bags of space Sentient Data fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Mar 28, 2015 |
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Mar 28, 2015 01:24
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Sentient Data posted:If a "fair amount" of stuff is enough to consider towing a trailer (especially mattresses or furniture), what about renting the smallest size moving truck and towing the car instead? Well navy is paying for it so the uhaul towing might be a real option.
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Mar 28, 2015 01:28
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Dumb question of the night: I have a 2005 Kia Spectra. Several months ago, I found that if I leaned the weight of my leg against the driver's side door, the interior light on the door would flick on. It's grown increasingly sensitive since that time, with just my knee touching the door being enough to keep that light on. Typically the "door open" light on my dashboard doesn't come on, but it did this past weekend during a couple of sharper turns. At no point did the door actually seem in danger of opening, but I think there must be some faulty sensor in the door or some part of the latch that's gotten warped that's causing this issue. I was kind of ignoring it up to this point because I do almost no night driving and my leg blocks the light from my line of sight anyway, but I left the house to find a dead battery this evening, so the issue must've gotten to the point where the the door light comes on regardless of whether there's pressure on the door. Alternatively, I guess my car battery could just be dead and need replacement and it's just a coincidence, but that seems unlikely. What's the most likely cause (or causes) for the problem and how much am I looking at to get it fixed (or is this so simple that I can fix it myself with really basic tools)? I have to imagine that this is a fairly minor and cheap fix, but clearly I can't push it off anymore. Any help would be appreciated on this, thanks.
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Mar 28, 2015 04:03
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It's most probably the dome light switch on the door frame, it's a little black oval thing with one bolt/screw holding it to the car, and a little accordion boot over the button that the door presses when it's shut. These gently caress out all the time so I'd find one from a wrecker or something. It could also be the door sagging on the hinges but if you can't see anything out of alignment or otherwise untoward, it's the switch.
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Mar 28, 2015 04:19
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LingcodKilla posted:Well navy is paying for it so the uhaul towing might be a real option. When my friend worked for the Navy, they sent a couple of seamen (hehe) to pack up his belongings and ship them to his new place on the Navy's dime. Nothing like that? For what it's worth, when my cousin moved to California, she bought a small trailer in Michigan and was able to flip it for a decent profit once she arrived. Seems like they are worth more in SoCal than the Midwest.
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Mar 28, 2015 05:03
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Yeah uh, unless you're on a barebones budget, , look into Penske. Much newer/better maintained equipment, not a massive amount more than Uhaul, and you might actually wind up with something with fuel injection and air conditioning! Uhaul is notorious for "oh you booked something this big and with a/c, but all we have is something a lot smaller, with 300k+ miles, and no a/c, for the same price, unless you want to drive 20 miles.. and they may or may not have it". They've hosed me several times like that, which was awesome when I was moving in the middle of August. My last rental from them (5 years ago) wound up being a 1986 Toyota pickup chassis, engine told nonstop knock knock jokes, a/c didn't work, truck couldn't idle on its own, couldn't get over ~45 mph while empty and floored, and it was belching thick black smoke anytime I looked at the throttle (blue smoke otherwise). I was honestly amazed it didn't window the block while I had it.
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Mar 28, 2015 05:14
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