|
Viper_3000 posted:Used MAFs go for around $220 at the used parts places near me. I rarely see e46s hit the pull a parts in Nashville. And if the ecu goes into alpha-n with the MAF unplugged, it may not be using the cts output either, so it appears to solve your problem.
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2015 02:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 17, 2024 00:10 |
|
|
GentlemanofLeisure posted:
I already have a Miata and like it a lot; this was mean to be a winter supplement to it for driving around town. The Saabaru's nice on roadtrips but feels like a dump truck at city speeds. Edit: forgot to mention the funny part; the seller's looking at Saabarus to replace this (he skis a lot and wants AWD) blk fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Mar 30, 2015 |
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2015 02:41
|
|
|
Jealous Cow posted:If you pass let me know. My girl likes the E36 M3 but wants an auto. Hard to find these in decent shape. http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/4954409299.html 
ThirstyBuck fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Mar 30, 2015 |
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2015 03:03
|
|
|
blk posted:Finally got a chance to see that 318is today. Most mechanicals seem to be in pretty good shape; there's a little oil coming from somewhere, I think it's the valve cover. The paint is pretty much shot; it looks like a couple of corners were repainted and clear coat is peeling everywhere. There are also a fair quantity of paint chips with surface rust. Drivers seat upholstery has big holes everywhere.There's a rattle and shake in the wheel between 45 and 75; I couldn't pin it to an exact speed or circumstance. Sunroof mechanism is totally broken; fog lights and some other electrics don't work. Dash has lots of cracks and the seller already sold the spare dash he mentioned as being included with the car in the ad. As far as my 335D - is there a cheap/easy way to do a home hot tank on a plastic intake manifold? Yes, I'm pulling the intake manifold, buying a media blaster from HF, and cleaning it myself.
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2015 05:06
|
|
|
Instant "I'll pass" right there. That rust repair is impossible to do right without stripping it to the cowl... on the inside. Plus removing the windshield. That poo poo is some death rust and if it's there, it's other places, too.
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2015 11:26
|
|
EVERYWHERE 
|
meatpimp posted:Instant "I'll pass" right there. That rust repair is impossible to do right without stripping it to the cowl... on the inside. Plus removing the windshield. That poo poo is some death rust and if it's there, it's other places, too. Also from experience on my E34 you will crack the windshield and each expensive trim piece removing it, and the rust will be extensive and heartbreaking once you get under there.
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2015 13:47
|
|
|
Protip: do NOT buy that car.
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2015 15:26
|
|
|
Anyone interested in this fine specimen? http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...396177256&Log=0
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2015 15:31
|
|
|
Cojawfee posted:Anyone interested in this fine specimen? Holy poo poo it's a 2008 with over 200k miles? Edit: it also says automatic but shows a stick?
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2015 15:55
|
|
|
Wow that has 10k more miles than my 1992.
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2015 15:55
|
|
|
I'd imagine you could easily make more than they are asking by parting it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2015 16:17
|
|
|
SuperDucky posted:Protip: do NOT buy that car.  Owner has no idea what that car is... so cold... *shiver*
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2015 16:22
|
|
|
Cojawfee posted:Anyone interested in this fine specimen? Hah, I saw this the other day, it's in really, really nice condition for that mileage. 30-40k mi/yr at 20mpg highway, somebody must love paying for gas. Even the seats don't look worn.
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2015 16:29
|
|
|
sofullofhate posted:
What's wrong with it?
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2015 16:36
|
|
|
I think I know the answer, but is there any real risk to me removing the main serp belt in my 540 (like, totally removing it from the bay) and running it for a minute from a cold start to see if it affects my vibration/misfiring issue? I am 99% sure my alternator is dead and want to pull it out of the equation, just in case a bearing's sticking or something.
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2015 20:51
|
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:Hah, I saw this the other day, it's in really, really nice condition for that mileage. Is the hood not latched? Because the passenger side front fender area looks questionable to me.
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2015 21:22
|
|
|
Lightbulb Out posted:Is the hood not latched? Because the passenger side front fender area looks questionable to me. Front bumper has been replaced, paint match and fitment is terrible. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2015 21:50
|
|
|
Yeah, its probably been replaced, but statistically speaking, it's unlikely any vehicle could rack up 200k miles in 7 years without some sort of accident. we are looking at an e90 that has 4x the mileage and 1/3rd the price of the average m3 of that vintage.
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2015 21:53
|
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:30-40k mi/yr at 20mpg highway, somebody must love paying for gas. Hahahahaha. Try maybe 15 in real life conditions. I have not cracked 13 (city mostly) yet despite my...admittedly... less-than-stellar (okay, half-assed) efforts to use "D"/no M button in the mornings and NOT floor it EVERYwhere, but I can't imagine that someone who's put 216k miles on a V8 M3 does not drive it pretty enthusiastically when possible. My 2008 has... 200k fewer miles than this one.
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2015 21:57
|
|
|
Jonny 290 posted:I think I know the answer, but is there any real risk to me removing the main serp belt in my 540 (like, totally removing it from the bay) and running it for a minute from a cold start to see if it affects my vibration/misfiring issue? I am 99% sure my alternator is dead and want to pull it out of the equation, just in case a bearing's sticking or something. You should be able to test whether your alternator is dead by messing around with the test options. One displays the voltage which will be substantially different if the alternator isn't working. I don't know whether the numbers are different in your car than mine so that's why I'm being a bit vague.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2015 03:57
|
|
|
SuperDucky posted:Protip: do NOT buy that car. I'll bite. Can someone let me know what super obvious thing I missed?
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2015 11:19
|
|
|
I have ordered a csl rack. The coupling mechanism and some new tie rods. Hoping for some nimble rear end feel and that brand new tight steering sense. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2015 11:39
|
|
|
I've been thinking about getting a 540i so the e30 has a friend. A fairly clean looking example has been up for a couple weeks in my area, being sold by the founder of a local enthusiast group. Heres the ad for reference: http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hilton/cars-vans-utes/1994-bmw-540i-low-kms-need-it-gone-this-week-/1074822819  What in particular should I look for given it's a 540 with 223KMs? I've done just about all you can do to an e30 in my garage so I'm confident I can give it a good going over. He has lowered it to $4400 for members of the group as he desperately needs cash 'for house renovations'. I'll go for a good drive in it then I'll offer him ~$4k if everything checks out.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2015 12:28
|
|
|
coolmancraig posted:I've been thinking about getting a 540i so the e30 has a friend. A fairly clean looking example has been up for a couple weeks in my area, being sold by the founder of a local enthusiast group. I saw this one on the similar matches http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/eden-hill/cars-vans-utes/bmw-540i-v8/1074359108. Similar kms, more rego, and this is a personal thing, but the Style 5 15" wheels are the superior choice IMO. I've only been to Perth the once, but it seems they're about 35 mins apart. Kinda there were a few in that price range in NSW, tbh. That and of course the lack of manuals for the E34 in general.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2015 13:29
|
|
|
Network42 posted:I'll bite. Can someone let me know what super obvious thing I missed? The e36 m3 is the cheapest "m-car" you can buy. This one has some pretty glaring issues, which may or may not make me discriminatory against a certain subset of BMW owners. Right off the bat: the ad isn't detailed enough. I absolutely would not buy an e36, m or not, or any BMW for that matter, without a description at least 4 times more detailed than that. Thread consensus is that BMWs aren't necessarily any worse/harder to maintain than any other car--so long as you stay on top of maintenance. While it does say new radiator/alt/etc, it doesn't provide evidence of any care going into said effort. I mean, poo poo, man, if you're doing a $500+ cooling system job, wouldn't you note when you did it? Other things: missing roundels on the ds1s, that undisclosed scratch on the driver fender, m stripes on and poorly fitting kidneys. Dumb, petty things like that add up to nickel and dimeing you on making a car nice, again. The automatic isn't an automatic (heh) deal killer, but experience has taught me that idiots own the autos at a higher percentage. What it comes down to, any why I alluded to it being a discriminatory practice, is people being dumb, frankly. Have you ever dealt with people on CL? Its painful when the person is reasonably responsible and intelligent. I have no patience for, and have learned to avoid, people who are in the habit of trying to initiate multi-thousand-dollar transactions when its pretty obvious they aren't being completely forthright about what has happened to the car in their tenure. Especially when said transaction has the potential to gently caress me out of thousands of additional dollars because they couldn't be arsed to be honest. If you're going to lay down the coin to properly maintain a BMW, you're going to document it, imo. tl;dr: look for a stack of receipts thicker than your forearm. This car is not an example of one that is going to have that. e: re-read the ad, he did say "minor scratches and dents." I don't consider that fender scratch minor.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2015 16:27
|
|
|
Jonny 290 posted:I think I know the answer, but is there any real risk to me removing the main serp belt in my 540 (like, totally removing it from the bay) and running it for a minute from a cold start to see if it affects my vibration/misfiring issue? I am 99% sure my alternator is dead and want to pull it out of the equation, just in case a bearing's sticking or something. No, and I know this for certain because I was driving around briefly yesterday without a belt (read: parked it behind the tow truck and then from behind the tow truck into my garage). Just be careful not to run it for long because the water pump won't be running and the engine will overheat before long.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2015 16:29
|
|
|
SuperDucky posted:The e36 m3 is the cheapest "m-car" you can buy. This one has some pretty glaring issues, which may or may not make me discriminatory against a certain subset of BMW owners. Yup, this. Also I want to heap more hate on the auto trans. You're either looking at a rebuild or a manual swap, both of which put the car way outside of a reasonable price for what you get. Keeping the existing auto isn't an option because the (GM!!) units in these things are absolute garbage and rarely make it to 150k.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2015 16:35
|
|
|
i am harry posted:You should be able to test whether your alternator is dead by messing around with the test options. One displays the voltage which will be substantially different if the alternator isn't working. I don't know whether the numbers are different in your car than mine so that's why I'm being a bit vague. Oh, I know it's dead. When I rev it in neutral and then let off the gas, as soon as I throttle off the system voltage as shown by OBC test #9 or whatever drops to battery voltage and the lights dim, then sloooowly builds back up to 13.4 or whatever charge voltage over like five seconds. I'm just trying to see if maybe there's a shorted alt winding or something that is causing drag - because I have that weird vibration, its sluggish, and I get belt squeak chirps when I goose it off idle in the driveway, with a <1000 mi properly tensioned belt. I'm just really trying to rule out anything stupid and easy to try to assess this vibration/sluggishness before I rip the loving cylinder head off an M62 because that's the only other thing that I can think of. Or scrap the car. Getting a little frustrated.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2015 16:50
|
|
|
Jonny 290 posted:Oh, I know it's dead. When I rev it in neutral and then let off the gas, as soon as I throttle off the system voltage as shown by OBC test #9 or whatever drops to battery voltage and the lights dim, then sloooowly builds back up to 13.4 or whatever charge voltage over like five seconds. I'm just trying to see if maybe there's a shorted alt winding or something that is causing drag - because I have that weird vibration, its sluggish, and I get belt squeak chirps when I goose it off idle in the driveway, with a <1000 mi properly tensioned belt. Have you pulled the alternator belt and spun the alternator by hand?
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2015 22:55
|
|
|
Negatory, that's a quick test though. Also I'm starting to bring my thinking back to fuel/injectors. It sat with Arkansas 89 octane in it for eight months. Considering pulling the IJs and hitting them with 9v battery/injector cleaner/that whole dance. It started out with ~2 gallons of old gas to which I added 2 gallons of new, so it wouldnt hurt to drain that poo poo (fuel pump on, drain into bucket? ideas welcome) and replace. Fuel pump is brand new
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2015 23:38
|
|
|
So I'm thinking the tensioner on my 540I is what went bad. Lower pulley on the tensioner wouldn't move when installed, but because it was pissed against the power steering pulley. I pulled everything apart and all pulleys spin freely. Does that sound like a thing that can happen? Also broke the water pump pulley removing the fan. Dammit.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2015 00:28
|
|
|
hawaiian_robot posted:I saw this one on the similar matches http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/eden-hill/cars-vans-utes/bmw-540i-v8/1074359108. Similar kms, more rego, and this is a personal thing, but the Style 5 15" wheels are the superior choice IMO. I've only been to Perth the once, but it seems they're about 35 mins apart. Kinda there were a few in that price range in NSW, tbh. That and of course the lack of manuals for the E34 in general. Good point. I'll see if I can have a look at both back to back and go for the better of the two. I also prefer the colour of the one you linked but the motor looks a little worse for wear - missing the radiator shroud and generally looks dirtier. If I go for the silver one I'll use the other to get him down a bit on the price. I have my e30 325i in manual so this will be more for long journeys/cruising - it's replacing a commodore. Having done some research of my own I can see that the oil pump bolts can sometimes back off causing low oil pressure and a loud tick. Anything else?
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2015 00:53
|
|
|
I bought a thing for my wife:
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2015 01:08
|
|
|
Comrade Flynn posted:I bought a thing for my wife: You are a nice husband.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2015 01:25
|
|
|
coolmancraig posted:Good point. I'll see if I can have a look at both back to back and go for the better of the two. I also prefer the colour of the one you linked but the motor looks a little worse for wear - missing the radiator shroud and generally looks dirtier. If I go for the silver one I'll use the other to get him down a bit on the price. See that dimple in the hood in the 3rd pic? That's from the fan exploding, which also took out the shroud. I'd be willing to bet that fan is new. Aside from that and the oil pump bolt thing, the M60 is pretty good. The PCV system is complex and kind of sucks, but not too hard to DIY. Rough idle can often be attributed to bad intake manifold gaskets. I have to overhaul my PCV system and replace my IM gaskets this spring. There was an upgrade to the PCV system between the M60 and M62 - a tube was added inside the manifold that brings all of the recycled gases to the front of the manifold, which better distributes all of the crap that gets recycled evenly among cylinders. WIth the old design, it was dumping everything into #4 and #8, which (according to some) leads to increased plug fouling / oil consumption issues in those cyls. Don't know how true that is, but if BMW thought it was enough of an issue to redesign the associated parts to eliminate it, there probably is at least a little merit to it. I'll be upgrading the affected parts when I do mine. The only thing I'm a bit worried about is that some M60 manifolds don't have the anchor point molded into them to hold the front of the tube. If mine doesn't have it, I'm gonna have to figure something out. M60:  M62:  Protip: If you need to do the IM gaskets and you don't know when the PCV was last done, it's not a bad idea to do all of it at once, since it'll be much easier to access everything while it's apart. All the stuff you need for both jobs (with the M62 PCV upgrade parts) is $315 with free shipping from ECS Tuning. Source: I just ordered all of it
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2015 01:27
|
|
|
Comrade Flynn posted:I bought a thing for my wife: You are a good husband and have a good wife. Mine 'wants to sit up high' so it's boring shitsville Subaru SUV land on her side of the garage. Ugh.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2015 02:10
|
|
|
Some guy posted that he was changing his spark plugs on facebook.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2015 02:14
|
|
|
We seriously need to timetravel back, find the individual rear end in a top hat that is responsible for inventing That Particular German Plastic That BMW Makes All The Most Important Parts Out Of, and shoot him in the balls. Anybody who disagrees is sentenced to three months in an E36 with the original expansion tank
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2015 02:16
|
|
|
Brock Landers posted:You are a nice husband.  I'm actually really excited about it. 2011 fully loaded 335is with DCT and 15k miles. Going to put a JB4 tune on as soon as we get it and probably throw some MPSS tires on there. Anything else you guys recommend?
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2015 02:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 17, 2024 00:10 |
|
|
My girlfriend won't let me buy her a new car. She drives a piece of poo poo Corolla and it makes me sad.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2015 02:29
|
|