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Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal

some texas redneck posted:

Do you not have another key matching the rest of the locks in the car? If you do, you can probably get in through the trunk (turn it left instead of right). If not, you'll probably have to find a way to get to a dealer, with proof of ownership (insurance ID card usually works), and get them to order a key for you. A valet key will be cheaper, and should (probably) unlock the passenger door and turn the ignition, but won't unlock the trunk.

Also try turning the key as if you were unlocking the door twice, if you haven't. I'm not sure about BMWs, but that unlocks all the doors on most cars I've owned, instead of just the drivers door.

Or hold the key in the unlock position for a few seconds, it may start to roll down your windows.

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Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Failing all of the above, smash a window.

Edmund Sparkler
Jul 4, 2003
For twelve years, you have been asking: Who is John Galt? This is John Galt speaking. I am the man who loves his life. I am the man who does not sacrifice his love or his values. I am the man who has deprived you of victims and thus has destroyed your world, and if you wish to know why you are peris

CharlesM posted:

Or hold the key in the unlock position for a few seconds, it may start to roll down your windows.

Unfortunately, that wasn't a feature on E34s.

Safety Dance posted:

Failing all of the above, smash a window.

Yeah, that's what I'm afraid I'm going to have to do. I have parts car that is the same color so I think the easiest thing to do at this point is going to be to is to break the window on the passenger door and then swap the entire door over. I already used swapped the driver door over from the same car, otherwise I would break that window and swap that door.

If I do get inside the car and turn the car on, should that let me unlock the doors from the inside?

Also, what would be the best way to keep this from happening again until I can track down the actual problem? Can I just pull a fuse to disable the central locking?

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

Juice Box Hero posted:

About 20 years ago I was gifted a craftsman mechanic tool & socket set. That poo poo is half lost and half rusted out now, and I'm ready to own something of which I can take proper care. I'm rebuilding a '71 challenger so I want SAE and hopefully 12 pt?

Rakuten has a nice-looking gearwrench set for 220 bux. Is their stuff a gimmick? What should I buy? I'm looking to spend less than $400. I don't want to gently caress around with replacing individual craftsman pieces. I want a set with extenders and all three drive sizes.

Tool thread!
http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2788369&pagenumber=254&perpage=40

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

Sanity check time. Replaced the rear calipers on our 02 Mustang last night. While we had the calipers off and were buying new ones, we just let the brake fluid drain into a bucket. Put everything back together, bled all four corners until we got a steady stream (took forever on the new calipers, filling them with fluid I guess), and tested the brakes. They work fine up front, but the rears don't move at all with the pedal. No action anywhere, even the piston.

My guess is air in the rear lines and we should just continue bleeding. I think our "steady stream" was the old fluid, which is followed by a bunch of air, then followed by the fresh fluid. That seem plausible? Is there anything special I need to do to the new calipers (the piston is the screw-in kind), or should they just work?

theres a will theres moe
Jan 10, 2007


Hair Elf

Oops! Thank you.

Neptr
Mar 1, 2011

ilkhan posted:

Speaking of brake fluid. I'm not going to run into issues with this stuff for fun driving street usage, am I?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VXRPL0

Just bought this yesterday for my daily driver, to flush out the ATE fluid already in my lines. Hi-temp brake fluid is more hygroscopic than run-of-the-mill brake fluid, but that just means you need to change it more often if you truly get your fluid close to the boiling point. For street use, it works fine.

BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot

GotDonuts posted:

Thanks for all the helpfull advice. Maybe I will pick up a clunker this weekend from my buddies junk yard and see how long it takes me wrenching on it to either mangle it all to hell or end up with a decent veichle to sell for another lovely car.

I will pick up the service manual for my car this weekend also. I seen in the car's manual it has points for lifting with that lovely scissor jack, never would of though of using those.

Sorry, late to the party... But make a thread too. Lots of people here have experience or know a thing or two and could give you pointers or help of you get stuck.

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.

Neptr posted:

Just bought this yesterday for my daily driver, to flush out the ATE fluid already in my lines. Hi-temp brake fluid is more hygroscopic than run-of-the-mill brake fluid, but that just means you need to change it more often if you truly get your fluid close to the boiling point. For street use, it works fine.
Good. Already ordered, so just making sure.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





ColdPie posted:

Sanity check time. Replaced the rear calipers on our 02 Mustang last night. While we had the calipers off and were buying new ones, we just let the brake fluid drain into a bucket.

Did it drain the master cylinder too low? Might need to bleed it first before it works, or use a pressure or vacuum bleeder to get enough through.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Last week I took my car into the shop for some clutch-in noise and what I thought was clutch smell after using it for a while, usually navigating parking lots or stop and go traffic. They fixed the clutch noise, but I've still been getting a smell. I was wondering if it was brake-related instead. I haven't gotten the chance to slide under the car and start sniffing at the clutch to make sure that's where the smell is coming from, but I noticed something.

The smell is only really noticeable on the inside, not once you get out of the car. And it's coming through the vents. I turned the car off, had to come back about a minute later because I realized I had forgotten to roll up the window. The car doesn't smell at that point. Then I turn it on enough for the windows to roll up, air comes out of the vents, instant hot/burning smell. Any ideas?

edit: In case what they did to the car at the shop is relevant, they replaced the transfer bearing on the input shaft with a larger one, since the channel for the bearing had worn wider than it was out of the factory. If I remember what they said right.

22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 15:16 on Apr 1, 2015

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

IOwnCalculus posted:

Did it drain the master cylinder too low? Might need to bleed it first before it works, or use a pressure or vacuum bleeder to get enough through.

Entirely possible. The reservoir was completely empty. We didn't check that. I'll look tonight/tomorrow.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

ilkhan posted:

Speaking of brake fluid. I'm not going to run into issues with this stuff for fun driving street usage, am I?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VXRPL0

I run that in the Porsche (because racecar) and it's fine. I do swap fluid every 2 years though (and after track days when I was still doing those). Supposedly that stuff is a bit more hygroscopic than regular DOT4.

Suave Fedora
Jun 10, 2004
Cosmetics concern. What types of materials are the best at not sticking to (and/or damaging) black leather?

Our kids ride in car seats and I want to protect the seats from indentations. I'm open to a DIY solution such as (cut-up yoga mats) or some old towels, or a commercial product, I just want something that isn't going to fuse with the leather like cheese slices on the surface of Venus. We live in Miami so its going to be really hot and melty inside pretty soon. Black car with black leather. I'll use anything as long as it doesn't stick to the leather and become impossible to separate without damage.

Suave Fedora fucked around with this message at 16:18 on Apr 1, 2015

Sentient Data
Aug 31, 2011

My molecule scrambler ray will disintegrate your armor with one blow!
It's a really ghetto solution, but what I've done is have the kids pick out a king size comforter from the store that they like (or just an all-black one in your case if you're worried about obvious aesthetics) and cut slits in the proper places for the seat belts

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


Tires! I'm not sure if this is the place to ask but I didn't see a tire megathread so here we go.

If it matters I'm driving an '02 Silverado 1500 and right now it has Toyo M-55s on it (to quote the sidewall: LT 235/85r16 M-55 M+S) that are getting near being slicks. So it's new tire time.

I work construction, which means I get a lot of highway miles commuting to and from work, as well as miles on big projects with roads that range from 'grubbed dirt track' to 'we bladed in a load of 6inch minus, good luck!" or even fresh shot rock with sharp as gently caress edges, so tough tires are certainly a requirement. As well as the typical jaunts up logging roads to go shooting in random borrow pits.

Please recommend me a tire, I really don't know what I should be getting. I do understand that good tires (like the ones I have that have lasted me a long time) may cost some money, that's fine. I'm not expecting some $75/ea shitpiles to fit my needs.

Arrath fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Apr 1, 2015

Gingerbread House Music
Dec 1, 2009

by FactsAreUseless
Lipstick Apathy

Arrath posted:

Tires! I'm not sure if this is the place to ask but I didn't see a tire megathread so here we go.

If it matters I'm driving an '02 Silverado 1500 and right now it has Toyo M-55s on it (to quote the sidewall: LT 233/85r16 M-55 M+S) that are getting near being slicks. So it's new tire time.

I work construction, which means I get a lot of highway miles commuting to and from work, as well as miles on big projects with roads that range from 'grubbed dirt track' to 'we bladed in a load of 6inch minus, good luck!" or even fresh shot rock with sharp as gently caress edges, so tough tires are certainly a requirement. As well as the typical jaunts up logging roads to go shooting in random borrow pits.

Please recommend me a tire, I really don't know what I should be getting. I do understand that good tires (like the ones I have that have lasted me a long time) may cost some money, that's fine. I'm not expecting some $75/ea shitpiles to fit my needs.

More M-55s?

Gingerbread House Music fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Apr 1, 2015

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


Ozmiander posted:

More M-55s?

Yeah, that was my thought. I just figured I'd check here to see if there have been any space age advances since they were put on the truck like 10 years ago :v:

eatenmyeyes
Mar 29, 2001

Grimey Drawer

Sentient Data posted:

If you find a leak out suspect one at all, contact a different place and tell them you think you might have a power steering leak for X reason, but don't mention the rack replacement suggestion. Let the new place try to find the leak without bias, it may just be a hose or a non-rack-internal seal which is a MUCH simpler and cheaper job for them to take care of
Folks at Midas found no leak. I also asked them about some noise I was hearing and it turns out it was a bad wheel bearing. So I guess I owe Autotire a big shoutout. Thanks for trying to defraud me. Your employees' shitbird duplicity may have averted tragedy.

Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal

Arrath posted:

Tires! I'm not sure if this is the place to ask but I didn't see a tire megathread so here we go.

If it matters I'm driving an '02 Silverado 1500 and right now it has Toyo M-55s on it (to quote the sidewall: LT 235/85r16 M-55 M+S) that are getting near being slicks. So it's new tire time.

I work construction, which means I get a lot of highway miles commuting to and from work, as well as miles on big projects with roads that range from 'grubbed dirt track' to 'we bladed in a load of 6inch minus, good luck!" or even fresh shot rock with sharp as gently caress edges, so tough tires are certainly a requirement. As well as the typical jaunts up logging roads to go shooting in random borrow pits.

Please recommend me a tire, I really don't know what I should be getting. I do understand that good tires (like the ones I have that have lasted me a long time) may cost some money, that's fine. I'm not expecting some $75/ea shitpiles to fit my needs.

I usually recommend people to check out the reviews on Tirerack.com and even discounttire.com. I don't know if people review the truck tires on there as much but it's worth doing some quick research.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Arrath posted:

Tires! I'm not sure if this is the place to ask but I didn't see a tire megathread so here we go.

If it matters I'm driving an '02 Silverado 1500 and right now it has Toyo M-55s on it (to quote the sidewall: LT 235/85r16 M-55 M+S) that are getting near being slicks. So it's new tire time.

I work construction, which means I get a lot of highway miles commuting to and from work, as well as miles on big projects with roads that range from 'grubbed dirt track' to 'we bladed in a load of 6inch minus, good luck!" or even fresh shot rock with sharp as gently caress edges, so tough tires are certainly a requirement. As well as the typical jaunts up logging roads to go shooting in random borrow pits.

Please recommend me a tire, I really don't know what I should be getting. I do understand that good tires (like the ones I have that have lasted me a long time) may cost some money, that's fine. I'm not expecting some $75/ea shitpiles to fit my needs.

BFG Commercial Tractions are on the more expensive side but are loving great for things like this.

You can often find them as take offs for a more reasonable price (they come on a lot of 3/4 and 1 ton trucks and vans from the factory).

JUST MAKING CHILI
Feb 14, 2008
I live in Dallas, Texas and I have a 2010 Honda Civic LX coupe which just turned 64,000 miles. I purchased it in January 2013 used with 34,000 miles, it was a 2 year lease before that. The last time my maintenance light went off, it was for an A13 service, so I dutifully had the oil and filter changed, rotated the tires myself, and then waited until two weeks later for when it was convenient for me to have the transmission fluid drained and filled.

When I went to pick it up from the dealership, the mechanic suggested a power steering fluid flush and a brake fluid flush. I worked at a dealership during college so I know how much mechanics love to recommend services that are easy to do and pay good hours, so I declined so I could do further research. I had the pads and rotors replaced about 7,500 miles ago. I check and keep the master cylinder and power steering reservoir filled on a monthly basis. The steering feels fine and doesn't make any whining noise while turning and the brakes don't feel spongy. The fluid for both is dark. I've found various maintenance recommendations on the internet but nothing definitive. Should I have the suggested service done?

puberty worked me over
May 20, 2013

by Cyrano4747
.

puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Jan 4, 2020

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I'm going to disagree with Extra; brake fluid should be flushed every few years.

Modus Man
Jun 8, 2004



Soiled Meat
Tire question:

I have a '03 Suburban with Cooper Discover AT/3's that have 50,000 miles on them. I rotate every 5,000 miles when I change the oil. The inside tread of all 4 tires has worn down to about 10-20% but the rest of the tread is all 40-50%. I want to have the tires flipped inside-out so that the tread will wear more evenly, but this means that the tires will be rotating in the opposite direction. Is changing the direction of rotation after 50,000 miles asking for trouble? I've heard it could cause cords to shift and could cause tread separation, but I have also read that those are old myths.

What would you guys do?

As a side note: Cooper Discover AT/3's have been amazing in everything from long distance (2,000 mile trips) highway cruising, light off-roading, wet traction, and deep snow. Would recommend, will buy again. :thumbsup:

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

some texas redneck posted:

I'm going to disagree with Extra; brake fluid should be flushed every few years.

Yeah it absorbs moisture whether you want it to or not and whether you drive the car or not.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Modus Man posted:

Tire question:

I have a '03 Suburban with Cooper Discover AT/3's that have 50,000 miles on them. I rotate every 5,000 miles when I change the oil. The inside tread of all 4 tires has worn down to about 10-20% but the rest of the tread is all 40-50%. I want to have the tires flipped inside-out so that the tread will wear more evenly, but this means that the tires will be rotating in the opposite direction. Is changing the direction of rotation after 50,000 miles asking for trouble? I've heard it could cause cords to shift and could cause tread separation, but I have also read that those are old myths.

What would you guys do?

As a side note: Cooper Discover AT/3's have been amazing in everything from long distance (2,000 mile trips) highway cruising, light off-roading, wet traction, and deep snow. Would recommend, will buy again. :thumbsup:

You should be fine, but you should probably look into why it's wearing the inside edge faster. A lot of shops do an "X" rotation anyway - where the front left gets moved to the back right, front right moved to the back left, etc - assuming the tires aren't directional.

Also 50k out of a set of tires? :stare:

Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal
Edit: do you mean you only have 10-20% tread left or only 10-20% worn?
If your tires are really worn that low anywhere they need to be replaced regardless. Someone else can answer the rest of the questions though, I don't know. Maybe need an alignment?

The Mandingo posted:

I live in Dallas, Texas and I have a 2010 Honda Civic LX coupe which just turned 64,000 miles. I purchased it in January 2013 used with 34,000 miles, it was a 2 year lease before that. The last time my maintenance light went off, it was for an A13 service, so I dutifully had the oil and filter changed, rotated the tires myself, and then waited until two weeks later for when it was convenient for me to have the transmission fluid drained and filled.

When I went to pick it up from the dealership, the mechanic suggested a power steering fluid flush and a brake fluid flush. I worked at a dealership during college so I know how much mechanics love to recommend services that are easy to do and pay good hours, so I declined so I could do further research. I had the pads and rotors replaced about 7,500 miles ago. I check and keep the master cylinder and power steering reservoir filled on a monthly basis. The steering feels fine and doesn't make any whining noise while turning and the brakes don't feel spongy. The fluid for both is dark. I've found various maintenance recommendations on the internet but nothing definitive. Should I have the suggested service done?

It's been at least two years since the brake fluid has been flushed if I understand right so personally I would bleed the brakes as brake fluid absorbs water over time. Whether you do that at the dealer is another question. It probably isn't something you need to do right away unless it's been especially contaminated or under repeated heavy braking, etc. Don't know about the p/s fluid.

Edit: I'm really slow at typing on the tablet.

Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Apr 2, 2015

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



What's involved in flushing brake fluid? Aside from it presumably needing disposal, it seems like it should be relatively simple. I should probably do it. Put that on the list with a million other things.

puberty worked me over
May 20, 2013

by Cyrano4747
.

puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Jan 4, 2020

Gingerbread House Music
Dec 1, 2009

by FactsAreUseless
Lipstick Apathy

yo bro, just suck that poo poo out of the reservoir with a turkey baster.

surf rock
Aug 12, 2007

We need more women in STEM, and by that, I mean skateboarding, television, esports, and magic.

Motronic posted:

You've gotten some good advice, but based on your follow up posts the major problem you have is your mechanic.

If you don't want to have to do this yourself find one that is competent and thorough.

When you're right, you're right.

Last update on my car, folks: had it towed to a different mechanic on Tuesday morning. The dead battery apparently hosed up the alternator, so that and the serpentine belt got replaced and now the car works. Huzzah!

Thanks for the help, everyone, much appreciated.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Dumb question, that I think I know the answer to:

Driving my girlfriend's 1.8T '02 Passat on the freeway, it bongs at me - oil light. gently caress. Pull off the highway, roll into a gas station, hear bad noises (like rod knock). Check the oil. Dry. Add about a quart, whatever was in the trunk - check again: overfull.

I was about a quarter mile from my destination and already figured the motor was hosed, so I start it back up. Brief rattle noise, then ... Back to the way it sounded yesterday. :wtc:

So ... Is there any possibility it's not turbofucked? Should I do an oil change or something else preventatively, or just budget for a new motor and drive it until it needs it?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
My 1988 Ford F150 didn't have rear speakers, so I ran wires back behind the bench seat anyway and put in some 6x9" truck boxes. That would normally be OK, but they like to scoot forward against the back of the bench seat and muffle out their sound. Has anyone dealt with this before? What are my options? Strap the boxes down somehow?

I did see this replacement headliner on JC Whitney that had quad 4" speakers. That's nice, but smaller than the door speakers. That got me thinking. How hard would it be to get some custom trim pieces made for the door B pillars and hide some speakers back there? There is quite a bit of room in the corners behind the trim.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.

Krakkles posted:

or something else preventatively?
Be single.

Any damage has been done. Just treat it as normal and see if it eats itself, I guess.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

InitialDave posted:

Be single.

Any damage has been done. Just treat it as normal and see if it eats itself, I guess.

Yeaaaah, the only reason I was driving it was to take it to a detailer, because it was grody. I love her, but we handle cars very differently.

Ok, that's what our mechanic is saying too, so gently caress it, let's see what happens.

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

IOwnCalculus posted:

Did it drain the master cylinder too low? Might need to bleed it first before it works, or use a pressure or vacuum bleeder to get enough through.

Yep, this was part of it. Bled the rears again and got some air out. Calipers started working, but crazy long pedal travel. Bled the master cylinder and it firmed right up. We wouldn't have thought of that. Thanks for the suggestion!

Turbo Fondant
Oct 25, 2010

kid sinister posted:

My 1988 Ford F150 didn't have rear speakers, so I ran wires back behind the bench seat anyway and put in some 6x9" truck boxes. That would normally be OK, but they like to scoot forward against the back of the bench seat and muffle out their sound. Has anyone dealt with this before? What are my options? Strap the boxes down somehow?

I did see this replacement headliner on JC Whitney that had quad 4" speakers. That's nice, but smaller than the door speakers. That got me thinking. How hard would it be to get some custom trim pieces made for the door B pillars and hide some speakers back there? There is quite a bit of room in the corners behind the trim.

As a former Ford Bricknose owner (and I'm sill a major fan of them), I'll say that any solution to a problem like this that requires you to spend more than $10 is the wrong one. I'm thinking find a way to strap them down or use velcro.
Personally though if I wanted to do an audio upgrade on one of these I'd have just put good front speakers in and not bothered with rears at all.

LeeMajors
Jan 20, 2005

I've gotta stop fantasizing about Lee Majors...
Ah, one more!


Picked up a CEL on my 2000 4Runner P0441 "Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow."

Cleared it, came back a few days later. I've checked all vacuum hoses to the evap canister and they seem to be in good condition. Gas cap is secure and unimpeded on sealing. Lots of things pointing to an obstruction of the Evap VSV, but I can't find any impedance and it seems to work altogether with all hoses being free of obstruction.

Is there anything else I should check before I start tossing parts at it?

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Sentient Data
Aug 31, 2011

My molecule scrambler ray will disintegrate your armor with one blow!
Have you cleaned out the EGR recently? It seems like they can have their own codes for direct failure, but they get clogged up with crap and seem to be the underlying cause of quite a few issues that a lot of people overlook, and other people with P0441 seem to say that a dirty EGR can be a cause

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