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Splizwarf posted:on the other hand I just looked at the M18 1/2" gun and it turns out that's rated at 700ftlbs clockwise and 1,100ftlbs anticlockwise Pretty comprehensive review here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6qn2r0nSVW4
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Apr 1, 2015 18:58
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Dannywilson posted:Pretty comprehensive review here: Of note is the part at 7 minutes into the video where he easily removes the crank pulley bolt on a 2001 Civic. As someone who's owned a 2001 Civic and has removed that exact bolt, I can testify that it's a bitch and a half to get off even with a bigass breaker bar and the correct Honda crank pulley removal tool. Took me and a second big strong dude to bust it loose with a 3 foot cheater bar. If we'd had access to a proper high-torque 1/2" impact it would have saved a lot of time on that job.
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Apr 1, 2015 19:25
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Dannywilson posted:Pretty comprehensive review here:  I had no idea you could remove ball joints with an impact wrench... Guess I'll hafta find another excuse to buy a press 
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Apr 2, 2015 02:49
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I'm still at the level where my entire tool set can fit in a handheld box (aside from my 1/2" breaker and 1/2" torque) and probably totals out at maybe 1/3 the price of that gun on Amazon, but man do I finally have something to put on my Christmas list. That review served as one hell of an effective ad
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Apr 2, 2015 03:29
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I really like mine, it either breaks bolts loose or breaks them entirely. It is heavy and large though. If I came into an extra hundo I'd pick up one of the compact ones, buuuuut it's hard to justify. I can lug the big feller around. Also I don't think you're supposed to use an impact with the ball joint press but I couldn't find anything to back that up.
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Apr 2, 2015 04:00
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Motronic posted:When someone says "impact" and doesn't include "cordless" or "electric" is means a real impact, i.e. air. Plug in electrics? I've yet to see a good one. Battery electrics? SnapOn makes one that comes in at 600 ft-lbs, and IR makes one at 780 ft-lbs. Not quite the 8-900 that the good air impacts do, but hardly garbage. For heavy duty mechanics they are a godsend because a lot of the stuff I work on is broken down in the middle of a construction site or somewhere and anyway is to big/awkward to move onto a truck except under its own power. Also on the topic of torque ratings on impact guns, most manufacturers advertise "nut busting" or "breakaway" torque, which is not actually what the gun can put out, it just means that they used it to loosen a nut that was tightened to that spec. There are no 1/2" impacts that put out 1200+ ft-lbs of torque, air or not. 950 is typically the maximum working torque, and even then only in reverse. Finally, there is no standard to which they are measured, manufacturers are free to design tests in the gun's favor, and then advertise whatever they want anyway. From what I've seen, and granted I haven't been doing this for 10 years yet, the best way to tell is to look at the price tag: you get what you pay for. EKDS5k fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Apr 2, 2015 |
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Apr 2, 2015 05:36
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I've had excellent luck with Dewalt's 1/2" Corded impact- it's perfect for a home-garage that does not have a compressor. You can find them on CL for ~$75 and it will easily break free 400ft/p flywheel nuts, suspension bolts, ect. You have to be careful though when it comes to ratings- I have never seen a shop with the same line pressure @ each drop. The shops I've visited still run unregulated full tank pressure to the lines. Another fun thing is operator error as we have seen with the multiple complaints about tire shops/lug nuts- those 780ft/p can easily turn in to 780/p of shear force. the spyder fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Apr 2, 2015 |
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Apr 2, 2015 17:49
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Mat_Drinks posted:Not to be a Ryobi apologist, but they're what I use for everything cordless. My Dad is a contractor and years ago gave me a bunch of their tools for free because he had bought a package to get a lightweight chop saw they only sold in the package and everything has held up pretty drat well. Ryobi make good-enough homeowner/handyman tools, if you get the green and grey batteries -- the NiCds had issues, but all the blue tools work with the green batteries . If your employer is buying, go with Milwaukee. My dad, an HVAC contractor, has burned out three name-brand Sawzalls trying to cut bits of the building that should not be cut. Any lesser brand would've crapped out before it compromised the structure. Dad loaned me a tiny red drill off the truck last week, and I would swear in court that that lil' Milwaukee 12v had twice the torque and half the size/weight of my fullsize Ryobi One+ 18v drill.
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Apr 3, 2015 04:01
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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I bought into the M18 Milwaukee range for myself after using them at work. Any cordless drill that can handle boring a 16mm drillbit through a foot diameter hardwood log with a 12mm steel plate in the middle of it while lying on its side in sand, to the point where the fans were spitting sand into our faces from out of the case, without making GBS threads itself, gets my vote. I love the stuff. The little battery gauge is great too, saved me a fortune in tools by not walking halfway across the farm or climbing onto the roof and discovering i have enough power for half a hole or undoing three teks and then ditching the drill or driver in a fit of rage...
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Apr 3, 2015 13:18
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Do the chargers made for 220v countries work faster, like electric kettles, or is the chemical reaction the bottleneck?
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Apr 3, 2015 13:44
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I'm pretty sure the batteries are charged with DC in the 12-36V range, and I'm also pretty sure they're not able to be charged with anything above, say, a couple of hundred W, so, no, 110V or 220V shouldn't make a difference in this scenario. Just was arsed to look up the specs for the M18 Milwaukee charger. It draws 2.1A in 110VAC, and deliver 3A out in 18VDC for the battery. Doesn't look like the wattage available in 110VAC countries is the limiting factor. Edit: hahaha, check out the completely randomly picked colors for "Competitor 1" and "Competitor 2" http://www.milwaukeetool.com/system/m18-fuel bolind fucked around with this message at 13:57 on Apr 3, 2015 |
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Apr 3, 2015 13:55
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StormDrain posted:I really like mine, it either breaks bolts loose or breaks them entirely. It is heavy and large though. If I came into an extra hundo I'd pick up one of the compact ones, buuuuut it's hard to justify. I can lug the big feller around. On good ones you can get away with it, but it's not the best route usually, on cheap ones, don't even think about it. I can get a rustbelt pressed-in balljoint with 250k miles on it out with an HF balljoint press, a 4lb hammer, and a box wrench anyways. Impact is the answer, but not an impact wrench, you build as much pressure on the thing as you can with the press and a box wrench, then whack the side of the knuckle where the balljoint goes through with the hammer, repeat as necessary until it pops out. Work smarter, not harder, especially when it comes to empirically testing the strength of Chinese cast iron.
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Apr 3, 2015 14:48
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Isn't it cheaper just to buy a complete new a arm from china then trying to service the original cheap a arm from china? The junk I buy every part of the drat thing is worn out just changing the ball joint does squat.
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Apr 3, 2015 16:04
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Elephanthead posted:Isn't it cheaper just to buy a complete new a arm from china then trying to service the original cheap a arm from china? The junk I buy every part of the drat thing is worn out just changing the ball joint does squat. Not all ball joints are in control arms, and I get an amazing arm workout from a Dana 44.
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Apr 3, 2015 17:25
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I think the prevailing advice is to avoid oil-less compressors, but there's a big sale going on at Home Depot and Amazon for California ultra quiet oil-less compressors right now: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=286608 amazon link: http://www.amazon.com/California-Ai...+air+compressor hd link: http://www.homedepot.com/p/California-Air-Tools-10-gal-2-HP-Ultra-Quiet-and-Oil-Free-Air-Compressor-10020/203245210#specifications 329 + tax for the larger compressor
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Apr 3, 2015 19:12
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Elephanthead posted:Isn't it cheaper just to buy a complete new a arm from china then trying to service the original cheap a arm from china? The junk I buy every part of the drat thing is worn out just changing the ball joint does squat. Like storm drain said - some of em are in a solid-axle housing, which means either you're replacing literally the entire front drive assembly or doing the balljoints. In fact I had never done a balljoint on a vehicle with balljoints in control arms until last fall - at which point I promptly bought a new control arm with new balljoint. Some also are into the knuckle rather than into the control arm, like many Subarus, but they also give you nowhere to use a press on them. Hondas you can use a balljoint press, and it doesn't go into the control arm, at least the one I worked on.
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Apr 3, 2015 22:42
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kastein posted:In fact I had never done a balljoint on a vehicle with balljoints in control arms until last fall - at which point I promptly bought a new control arm with new balljoint.
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Apr 3, 2015 22:53
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It was only marginally more expensive than the balljoint and bushings alone, anyways. 32 bucks for bushings and balljoint, or 47 for a whole new control arm, with the mounting bar thingus and all the fasteners, and I sure as gently caress wasn't going to try and get that stupid rear end bar thing out of the two control arm bushings while it was in the truck... hell, with how much it fought me, it would have been bad enough doing it on the bench. By the time I got it out I had actually bent one of the M14 mounting studs (permanently affixed to the mounting bar - so would have needed a new one of those too) about 10 degrees and completely ruined the threads due to the amount of rust and seizing/galling that went on. This disaster right here:  The worst ones are those aluminum control arms (Ford, I think?) with a steel balljoint pressed in. It's a tight fit anyways, then ten years of rock salt has its way with the splines on the balljoint housing and the aluminum control arm and it's packed full of white corrosion. At that point, I don't care what you want to do to it, there's no way it's coming out and leaving the control arm reusable, just give up and buy a new one.
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Apr 3, 2015 23:03
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kastein posted:The worst ones are those aluminum control arms (Ford, I think?) with a steel balljoint pressed in. I think Ford actually considers those non-serviceable? My Ranger had those on the uppers and while I think Moog did make a replacement joint, it costs almost as much as the fully loaded arm. From what I've heard the screw-style press won't even touch them, you need a hydraulic shop press. Lowers were the regular steel arms, and a replacement joint was seriously like  from Rockauto. Rattlegun plus Autozone press made very short work of it.
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Apr 3, 2015 23:17
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Splizwarf posted:Do the chargers made for 220v countries work faster, like electric kettles, or is the chemical reaction the bottleneck? You are limited by the rate the battery charged, which is restricted by the internal geometry of the battery, and its chemistry. So yeah, 220v countries typically do not charge batteries faster.
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Apr 3, 2015 23:41
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Uk goons, halfords has a good deal available on their red/black tool boxes right now, get the 5 drawer cabinet, 4 drawer mid +7 drawer top box for £250. That's £50 more than I paid for the top and bottom box, I would say it's worth it.
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Apr 6, 2015 23:42
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...N1JBJ805WHTSNCC I am thinking about picking up this plasma cutter. FWIW my welder can only do 3/16 in a single pass, so 1/4 cut capability is all I should need for the immediate future. If I do go bigger down the road, I will most likely go with oxy acetylene set up. It's 110v, which would be nice for portability, plus being able to use it every where. Is there any flaw to the logic here? Or should I hold out for a bigger unit in the hopes that I get a garage with full on 220v service?
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Apr 8, 2015 18:11
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Do you have a garage with its own sub panel in it? Adding a 220v outlet isn't rocket science. Although the next step up from Hobart is a $600 jump, maybe it's better to have one now that covers you. Also, if you decide you need gas, you can rent it for the duration of your project and save some cash.
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Apr 8, 2015 19:49
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As of right now my immediate future is undetermined. I currently rent and the panel is in the garage, but gently caress trying to get permission to add 220 outlet. And I do plan on buying a house this summer/fall, so I'm not sure what kind of service I'd have. The long term I will have a sub panel in the garage but I don't for see a solid plan for the next 2-3 years in terms of electrical service. That's why I plan to just stick with 110v. I will mostly be doing auto body poo poo with it, but for now I can live with an angle grinder and a cut off disc to cut out rust. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Apr 9, 2015 |
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Apr 9, 2015 04:58
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I'd skip the plasma cutter and get a few different grinders so you can run wire wheel, cutoff, and grind disks without changing all the time + get a mig gas bottle if you haven't already. That will go further in auto body than a plasma.
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Apr 9, 2015 13:18
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Slow is Fast posted:I'd skip the plasma cutter and get a few different grinders so you can run wire wheel, cutoff, and grind disks without changing all the time + get a mig gas bottle if you haven't already. That will go further in auto body than a plasma. Have you used a plasma cutter? They are all kinds of awesome for autobody, and get into places that you'd never get a grinder. That being said, buy at least 2 grinders. I have 4: Makita 4.5" with a fine grinding disc Makita 4" with a flapdisc Milwaukee 6" with a fuckoff huge grinding disc Metabo 4.5" with a cutoff wheel And a Cutmaster 42 plasma... and Oxy-acetylene... and 2 MIG's (one 120V portable fluxcore, and my Millermatic 210) I have issues.
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Apr 9, 2015 15:51
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Yes I've used a plasma, and I while it is handy, I did just fine with grinders and a lovely mig.
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Apr 9, 2015 16:12
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I figured I can hold off for now, it popped up at the fleet farm on sale for 700 on sale, I didn't really want to drop a ton of money on something that I should hold out for a better unit down the road. Ill just wait and hold out for 220v service. I do want to eventually get a 220V arc though, so this might be a good reason to save some cash now and wait till I get settled in a new place. But I am only 2 angle grinders in, I will wait till theres another sale and get a couple more.
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Apr 9, 2015 18:20
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There's a slickdeal for 20 piece combinatiin gearwrenches right now. $50 at sears. http://slickdeals.net/f/7785987-20-...or-sywm-members
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Apr 9, 2015 23:00
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I really want these jacks. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMqTFQuPHeY
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Apr 9, 2015 23:08
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Juice Box Hero posted:There's a slickdeal for 20 piece combinatiin gearwrenches right now. $50 at sears. I think Advance has those same sets at 50% off, so you could buy both for about that same price, maybe a little cheaper.
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Apr 9, 2015 23:33
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Juice Box Hero posted:There's a slickdeal for 20 piece combinatiin gearwrenches right now. $50 at sears. Just bought these for work. Such a great deal. Also the matco guy will warranty gearwrench stuff for me. Also that jack that IOC posted about looks like a perfect at home jack. I felt a little iffy when he first pulled them out but they proved there worth as he used it.
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Apr 10, 2015 01:02
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IOwnCalculus posted:I really want these jacks. Well let's see if I sock away 100 a week I can have these by the end of summer.... I wasn't saving that much by paying off debt early anyway.
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Apr 10, 2015 02:20
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StormDrain posted:Well let's see if I sock away 100 a week I can have these by the end of summer.... I wasn't saving that much by paying off debt early anyway. That price really isn't that bad... I might have to remember those.
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Apr 10, 2015 02:22
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fknlo posted:That price really isn't that bad... I might have to remember those. It's priced right, I'll say that. It's not much cheaper than a two post, and if you can't accommodate a two post, what other option do you have? 1400 buys a lot of other tools too, it's an opportunity cost for me. I'll probably pick it up if I move to a larger but not much larger garage though.
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Apr 10, 2015 03:32
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StormDrain posted:1400 buys a lot of other tools too, it's an opportunity cost for me. Yes it does. I probably have close to that amount in sockets/wrenches sitting in my Amazon wish list right now. I'll start ordering them in the next couple of months or so.
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Apr 10, 2015 04:06
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That is pretty nifty, although I'm still planning on a max jax lift for my garage.
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Apr 10, 2015 04:13
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I'm slowly adding to my tools list every day on amazon, but now with that gear wrench sale, I just cleaned a few things out. Ugh, I don't know which I lust after more, cars or tools. Tools create the car, but with out the car there's no need for tools. Its the chicken and the egg thing.
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Apr 10, 2015 04:34
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IOwnCalculus posted:I really want these jacks. Holy crap.....maybe I don't want a 4 post or to agonize over a 2 post in a garage where I really can't lift anything enough to walk under it.
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Apr 10, 2015 04:34
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Motronic posted:Holy crap.....maybe I don't want a 4 post or to agonize over a 2 post in a garage where I really can't lift anything enough to walk under it. Rovers are heavy pigs though. I wish this had about an extra couple thousand pounds.
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Apr 10, 2015 04:38
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