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Even Jay Leno has problems finding good heads for his straight-8 dusenberg engines. I think in his latest dusenberg video (like two years ago) he said he spent a fortune having one custom machined.
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Apr 7, 2015 05:16
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Paradoxish posted:Ugh, sorry for the incoming long post, but I didn't want to make a new thread just for this and I could really use some diagnostic help with an ancient 4th gen Maxima that's got some serious issues. This is a family member's car that's been neglected and beat to hell, and I'm trying to help her (cheaply) get it back into more-or-less driveable condition. Odds are it'll be gone within a year, but for now it's being daily driven and that's... not great in its current state. When I got my hands on the car it had no power, was leaking insane amounts of oil, hesitating, and stalling almost any time it came to a stop. It was throwing knock sensor and camshaft position sensor codes. So far, this is what I've done/diagnosed: That era Nissan generally just ignores the knock sensor when it goes bad instead of pulling timing (and I guarantee just about every 90s Nissan on the road is throwing P0325). And 90s Nissans have a massive appetite for knock sensors - the original design is pretty lovely, and the sensor winds up cracking. The cheap ebay replacements, at least in my experience, tend to be overly sensitive and cause the car to pull timing to the point that it can barely hit highway speeds. That generation shouldn't turn on the check engine light for the knock sensor either - the stock tune can handle the knock sensor disappearing without any concerns. First thing to look for is the tube that runs between the MAF and throttle body. I'm betting it's cracked or leaking, which will cause a lot of hesitation (especially while accelerating). Check fuel pressure as well, while running (blip the throttle in park/neutral hard enough to wind it up to about 4k while watching pressure, and if possible, watch it while driving - see if it's jerky, or if it just jumps up then back down). Second to check is vacuum leaks, followed by a sticking EGR valve. Finally, for the high idle, either the IACV is gummed up, or the engine isn't getting hot enough for the FITV (fast idle thermo valve) to knock the idle down - you should see ~1800 when stone cold, and ~750 when warm (in park/neutral). The temp gauge should get up to about 1/3. The stalling really sounds like the IACV or a sticking EGR valve, though the computer should toss an EGR code at you if the EGR is sticking open. Should doesn't mean it will, of course.
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Apr 7, 2015 06:47
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Fucknag posted:Veyron GT has 1200 hp to a V6 Camry's 268, a ratio of about 4.5:1. OTOH I can't imagine trying to get 320 WHP down to the ground on turn-of-the century skinny tires and with an open differential...
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Apr 7, 2015 07:05
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Geoj posted:OTOH I can't imagine trying to get 320 WHP down to the ground on turn-of-the century skinny tires and with an open differential... It was sold in the 30s, tires were getting pretty decent by then. As for traction, I doubt that was much of a problem considering "wiki posted:Duesenbergs generally weighed around two and a half tons; up to three tons was not unusual, considering the wide array of custom coachwork available.
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Apr 7, 2015 07:11
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Sorry if this is the wrong thread, it seemed to be the most accurate one I can find. I want to start to be able to work on cars - the ultimate goal being to buy an old pickup truck and fix it up. I have no experience with anything car related- besides driving. Where the hell do I even start?
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Apr 7, 2015 16:03
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Kvlt! posted:Sorry if this is the wrong thread, it seemed to be the most accurate one I can find. I started by buying a broken honda scooter and taking the motor apart on my kitchen table. I had it easy, because the guy I bought it from had taken it to a shop and gotten an estimate. Their estimate said it was probably the piston rings, so I replaced them and it was good to go! A 40lb. motor makes it really easy to work on, and the scooter being a second vehicle made it easy to take my time. Do you own a car? What kind of car? Anything wrong with it? If you have a car already you could start with simple stuff like oil changes and regular tune up stuff - change the spark plugs, air filter, clean the throttle body, that kind of stuff. OR, just find a truck you like and buy that fuckin' truck. If you buy a vehicle that you WANT to work on and can't WAIT to drive, you're a lot more likely to work on it. Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Apr 7, 2015 |
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Apr 7, 2015 16:08
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Astonishing Wang posted:I started by buying a broken honda scooter and taking the motor apart on my kitchen table. I had it easy, because the guy I bought it from had taken it to a shop and gotten an estimate. Their estimate said it was probably the piston rings, so I replaced them and it was good to go! A 40lb. motor makes it really easy to work on, and the scooter being a second vehicle made it easy to take my time. I do have a car in great condition that I wouldn't mind working on. Might buy a broken engine like you suggested. Seems like I'll do an oil change, as my car is do for one anyway. Thank you!
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Apr 7, 2015 16:19
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some texas redneck posted:That generation shouldn't turn on the check engine light for the knock sensor either - the stock tune can handle the knock sensor disappearing without any concerns. Yeah, I figured the knock sensor code was a bit of a red herring, which is why I've been putting off doing anything about it. The CEL was on for the camshaft position sensor code, but stayed off once that was cleared. quote:First thing to look for is the tube that runs between the MAF and throttle body. I'm betting it's cracked or leaking, which will cause a lot of hesitation (especially while accelerating). Probably should have mentioned that I checked the intake boot last time I had it off the car. It's hard as a rock, but there aren't any obvious cracks or tears. I was thinking of replacing it anyway since it's pretty cheap. I did notice that the gasket/o-ring, uh, thing on the output side of the MAF was crumbling, but I haven't been able to locate a replacement yet and I'm not sure if it's bad enough to cause any kind of significant leak. quote:The stalling really sounds like the IACV or a sticking EGR valve, though the computer should toss an EGR code at you if the EGR is sticking open. Should doesn't mean it will, of course. Time to look into testing procedures for the IACV and EGR valve, I guess. At least I have a plan of action now. Fuel pressure at idle and revving in neutral seemed good after replacing the fuel filter and I think the fuel pump was replaced on this car sometime in the last few years. Thanks a lot for the advice, I appreciate it. 
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Apr 7, 2015 18:46
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A MAF sensor gasket can absolutely cause a vacuum leak; replace that first since it's probably cheap, definitely cheaper than anything EGR. You can spray brake cleaner (or any sort of flammable aerosol chemical) around that pipe joint, if the idle raises you've found the culprit. (beware of false negatives though) Also, if it's set up like some hondas with two separate ports inside the throttle body (before the butterfly) for the electronic and thermostatic IAC valves, you can check by covering each port in turn and see if it drops the idle. Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Apr 7, 2015 |
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Apr 7, 2015 19:13
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Kvlt! posted:Sorry if this is the wrong thread, it seemed to be the most accurate one I can find.  in it. They're pretty simple beasts as far as automotive tech goes. Figure out what's not working, figure out how to make it work, repeat. What is your experience of other mechanical things? Bicycles, home DIY and so on?
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Apr 7, 2015 19:25
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InitialDave posted:If you have the space, buy an old pickup truck and start a thread with suitable amounts of "Oh God, what do I do?" If you go this route, take the advice you're given, for god's sake.
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Apr 7, 2015 19:33
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some texas redneck posted:First thing to look for is the tube that runs between the MAF and throttle body. I'm betting it's cracked or leaking, which will cause a lot of hesitation (especially while accelerating). Yup, those symptoms he described are almost textbook vacuum leak.
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Apr 7, 2015 20:44
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Kvlt! posted:I do have a car in great condition that I wouldn't mind working on. Might buy a broken engine like you suggested. Seems like I'll do an oil change, as my car is do for one anyway. Thank you! Buy the repair manual too. It's preferable to resorting to your tablet to pull up instructions. I'm in similar straits. I bought a 2000 Ford Ranger for $2,250 (only 67k miles on it, couldn't pass that up) as my beater, but the exterior makes it look like it was garaged in Beirut. I just bought new shocks that I plan on installing with the help of a neighbor. Be bold! Just don't work on your daily driver.
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Apr 7, 2015 21:08
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I have a 2008 Honda CR-V 4 cylinder (don't know the exact model, but lowest end). It has 149,000 miles. I've never replaced any major belts (and I've had it since it had 18,000 miles on it). For as poorly as I've treated it, it's done amazingly well. Last summer I had the A/C compressor replaced. There was something in it that was grinding and causing it to "wheeze". When I'd be stopped it would completely go out and the car would begin to overheat (the temperature gauge stays 2 notches below midway otherwise). They replaced it, it ran fine, got through summer alright. It's getting hot again and the A/C is acting up again. If I'm driving on the road (generally no matter what the speed is, as long as the car is moving), the A/C is awesome - very cold air. When I'm stopped at a light, the car beings to rattle, and the engine will "shutter" for lack of a better term. But the entire car will shake, and it feels like something isn't getting power. Up until the other day, this didn't bother me too much. The A/C would still blow cool at long stops. However, it's started to get hot (Dallas), I was at a stop light for 5+ minutes, and the engine started to heat up again (to where the temperature gauge went past the midway mark) and the A/C was noticeably warmer. I turned off the A/C, continued to drive, and the temperature went back down. I'd really like to avoid buying another A/C compressor, but what is causing the entire car to shake when I'm at an extended stop?
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Apr 7, 2015 21:30
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Are you getting a check engine light when this occurs? How far past midway is the temperature gauge going? Is the engine's cooling fan running? Even with the engine cold, if you start it up and turn the A/C on, the fan should be cycling on and off every few seconds to keep air moving over the condenser.
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Apr 7, 2015 21:37
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What IoC said - the fan probably isn't working properly. As for the shaking, how low is the tach going? If it's not dropping much, you'll probably want to budget for new motor mounts soon. To put it simply, when they wear out, the engine winds up resting on the chassis instead of on rubber, and the entire car starts vibrating/shaking at idle (especially when in drive). The throttle body may also need to be cleaned, though I don't know how picky Hondas are about that (I know my GM gets a slight bouncing idle while cold and sometimes idles low when warm when the throttle body gets gunked up).
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Apr 7, 2015 22:30
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Fucknag posted:A MAF sensor gasket can absolutely cause a vacuum leak; replace that first since it's probably cheap, definitely cheaper than anything EGR. You can spray brake cleaner (or any sort of flammable aerosol chemical) around that pipe joint, if the idle raises you've found the culprit. (beware of false negatives though) HotCanadianChick posted:Yup, those symptoms he described are almost textbook vacuum leak. Alright, cool, I'll check out the intake boot and MAF gasket a little more closely and see about ordering replacements this week. I guess I wasn't really thinking about a vacuum leak too much since there's nothing audible in the engine bay and the idle (aside from being high) is reasonably smooth and solid. Here's to hoping it really is something that simple.
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Apr 7, 2015 22:49
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IOwnCalculus posted:Are you getting a check engine light when this occurs? How far past midway is the temperature gauge going? Nope, no check engine light. And it get's to midway on the temp gauge and then I turn the A/C off, I'm worried that the car will overheat and shutdown. How do I tell if the engine's cooling fan is running? Is there a reason the A/C runs great when the car is moving (it runs amazing if I'm on a highway going 50+). some texas redneck posted:As for the shaking, how low is the tach going? If it's not dropping much, you'll probably want to budget for new motor mounts soon. To put it simply, when they wear out, the engine winds up resting on the chassis instead of on rubber, and the entire car starts vibrating/shaking at idle (especially when in drive). The throttle body may also need to be cleaned, though I don't know how picky Hondas are about that (I know my GM gets a slight bouncing idle while cold and sometimes idles low when warm when the throttle body gets gunked up). Stays around 1500. No major drops there. How much do new motor mounts go for + labor? Thank you both for your replies.
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Apr 7, 2015 23:00
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The fan is very loud, you should be able to hear it cycling on and off even if you have the doors and windows closed (I can on my '13 CR-V). You could always try to see if it's turning, but at least from what little time I've had to spend under the hood of my CR-V, it's buried in there a bit so it's actually quite difficult to see. If the fan isn't running, you have no airflow over the radiator or the condenser until you move again, which will make the engine overheat and the A/C work like poo poo.
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Apr 7, 2015 23:10
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Awesome, thank you. Makes sense to me (from what little I know). I'll take it in and see what they say.
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Apr 7, 2015 23:11
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musclecoder posted:Nope, no check engine light. And it get's to midway on the temp gauge and then I turn the A/C off, I'm worried that the car will overheat and shutdown. Shouldn't the engine idle at about half that?
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Apr 7, 2015 23:51
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My 06 Hyundai Sonata (V6) has been overheating when I turn the AC on in heavy traffic lately. It has 104k miles on it. The radiator was replaced by a dealer service department about 6 months ago after I wrecked the front end pretty well  . I'd like to try to at least do some basic troubleshooting before I just take it to someone and they ask for the maximum amount of money possible.If I turn the fan on, it works. I can get hot air and non-cold air. Turning on the AC results in not-cold air as well as the engine temperature rising. It happens pretty quickly. In general, I try not to run the A/C in heavy traffic in any car for fear of overheating. No dashboard lights are on. Is there a good place to start troubleshooting on my own? I have very little automotive repair experience but I fix most other mechanical things in my life by doing research and following instructions. tadashi fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Apr 8, 2015 |
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Apr 8, 2015 00:37
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DeusExMachinima posted:Thread delivers, voted 5. Old Bugattis, Bentleys and Cadillacs will probably do it for you too. As an added bonus, Ettore Bugatti was once quoted as saying his chief rival W. O. Bentley made "the world's fastest lorries" due to the latter's obsession with durability and the former's love of aesthetics. Also, if you want to drool over something modern with that classical styling, look into the English company of Morgan.
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Apr 8, 2015 01:16
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tadashi posted:My 06 Hyundai Sonata (V6) has been overheating when I turn the AC on in heavy traffic lately. It has 104k miles on it. The radiator was replaced by a dealer service department about 6 months ago after I wrecked the front end pretty well Does it do this when moving? It's possible that your fan(s) aren't moving enough air, or any at all.
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Apr 8, 2015 02:15
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EightBit posted:Does it do this when moving? It's possible that your fan(s) aren't moving enough air, or any at all. I guess what I really need to do is try to run it while I'm driving somewhat fast. It was kind of dumb not to do that before asking. If it does work and doesn't overheat while moving, is there something I can check or is it something that needs to go to a mechanic?
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Apr 8, 2015 02:21
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Every car I have ever seen turn its compressor off at idle and start to overheat had a bad water pump. Especially late 90s Ford anything, I think my family had this happen to 3 various Ford truck/vans.
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Apr 8, 2015 02:42
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tadashi posted:I guess what I really need to do is try to run it while I'm driving somewhat fast. It was kind of dumb not to do that before asking. If it does work and doesn't overheat while moving, is there something I can check or is it something that needs to go to a mechanic? If it is the fans, it might just be a fuse or a relay or something easy like that. You'd need to do further troubleshooting to figure out if it was within your scope.
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Apr 8, 2015 02:53
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CharlesM posted:Shouldn't the engine idle at about half that? Yes, I completely pulled that number out of my rear end but I checked when leaving work and the engine was at 800rpm.
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Apr 8, 2015 03:18
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musclecoder posted:Yes, I completely pulled that number out of my rear end but I checked when leaving work and the engine was at 800rpm. Ah, that's good. It will idle higher before it warms up though, so thought maybe you looked while it was still cold.
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Apr 8, 2015 04:10
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musclecoder posted:How do I tell if the engine's cooling fan is running? Is there a reason the A/C runs great when the car is moving (it runs amazing if I'm on a highway going 50+). I was about to say "the gently caress, 1500?!" before I saw your followup. I honestly have no idea how much a shop charges for them; it's been 13 years since I paid a shop to do them, and they were done while the subframe was out. I've always done them myself. You will definitely hear the fan if you're outside of the car - it's a decently loud "whir", and if you put your hand in front of the grill, you should feel a decent amount of air moving. Or just pop the hood and look at it (DON'T PUT YOUR HANDS NEAR IT) - it'll be a blur if it's running, stationary if it's not. And a decent blast of hot air coming from the front of the car if the hood is open, if it's running. If air isn't moving through the radiator (and by proxy, the air conditioner condenser, since it sits in front of the radiator), the refrigerant doesn't get cooled, and you wind up with a/c that doesn't work well, if at all. You also wind up with a hot blooded engine. You did say you were in Dallas, right? I know a shop in Lewisville that works on nothing but Hondas, or if you're further north, I know a shop in Denton that specializes in imports (the Denton shop owner is actually the son in law of the Lewisville shop owner). If you want to chase it yourself, there's usually several relays under the hood for the fan(s). The newest Honda I've owned was a 2001 though, so I'll leave IoC and others to guide you on that. tadashi posted:My 06 Hyundai Sonata (V6) has been overheating when I turn the AC on in heavy traffic lately. It has 104k miles on it. The radiator was replaced by a dealer service department about 6 months ago after I wrecked the front end pretty well Same thing as musclecoder's vehicle - fan probably isn't working. That's something that gets overlooked way too often after a front end accident.
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Apr 8, 2015 06:15
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some texas redneck posted:The newest Honda I've owned was a 2001 though, so I'll leave IoC and others to guide you on that. If it's not rotating the tires, changing the oil, or changing the battery, I've got nothing for you. It's been dead loving reliable and will hit 48k miles just before it hits two years old.
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Apr 8, 2015 06:31
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But you can at least look at the relay box and see what does what. I can't.  (you've already had to replace the battery?  )
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Apr 8, 2015 06:35
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some texas redneck posted:(you've already had to replace the battery? Check your trunk-battery privilege there boy.
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Apr 8, 2015 06:38
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some texas redneck posted:But you can at least look at the relay box and see what does what. I can't. Arizona heat murders them. I have literally never had a battery last longer than three years out here, and that was the trunk-mounted battery in my old NB Miata. I didn't let it get all the way to a no-start condition but it was cranking really slowly at the end. $80 at Costco and I'll probably never have to buy one again for it.
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Apr 8, 2015 06:44
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some texas redneck posted:
Not the guy you quoted, but I'm in Lewisville and could use a good reference for a Honda (and/or a Lexus) mechanic. Can you PM me?
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Apr 8, 2015 06:46
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The Mandingo posted:Not the guy you quoted, but I'm in Lewisville and could use a good reference for a Honda (and/or a Lexus) mechanic. Can you PM me? Done. IOwnCalculus posted:Arizona heat murders them. I have literally never had a battery last longer than three years out here, and that was the trunk-mounted battery in my old NB Miata. I didn't let it get all the way to a no-start condition but it was cranking really slowly at the end. $80 at Costco and I'll probably never have to buy one again for it. I think I have a battery made of unicorn farts and baby tears. In two more months it'll hit 10 years old.  When I lived in El Paso, I never got more than 3 years from a battery. In DFW, my record is 4 years (gets almost as hot, but the temp swings overnight aren't as wide as they are in the desert). The one I have now cranks a little slow, but still starts the car fine, and can still handle an hour of listening to the radio with the engine off. At this point I'm just trying to see how long it'll last, for science!  (also because I'm a broke rear end)
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Apr 8, 2015 06:55
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some texas redneck posted:I was about to say "the gently caress, 1500?!" before I saw your followup. I figured out that the A/C is ok when I'm driving at a decent speed. The fan behind the radiator doesn't run when I just start the car and tun on the A/C. Is that fan supposed to run anytime the A/C is on or is it controlled by a sensor? It looks like, if the A/C is not on, it does not run unless the temperature in the car gets too high. Just to be clear - the car doesn't overheat until I turn the A/C on. E: 1 more thing: if it is the temperature sensor, is that something that would show up as an error code if I took the car to Autozone to check? tadashi fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Apr 8, 2015 |
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Apr 8, 2015 17:50
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Beyond the hilariously low combined 10 mpg are there any very blatant reasons why I should stop considering picking up a Lincoln Mark III as a Sunday driver?
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Apr 8, 2015 21:26
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IM DAY DAY IRL posted:Beyond the hilariously low combined 10 mpg are there any very blatant reasons why I should stop considering picking up a Lincoln Mark III as a Sunday driver? If you can find a 1964 Continental, stop considering a Mark III
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Apr 8, 2015 22:46
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Unfortunately I doubt there is any way I'd be able to track down a 60s era Lincoln convertible in running condition for anywhere near my meager (read: <$5k) budget. I ask because this is about 10 miles from my house
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Apr 8, 2015 22:58
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