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Siochain posted:And just to add another question in - what are some good sites to browse for recommendations/reviews/etc? Just looking to find some places with good info for an idiot to look things up on. A lot of good info on https://www.rccrawler.com has many different forums. I use https://www.rpphobby.com to buy most of my stuff. They have super fast shipping and great customer service. Only time I go elsewhere is when the item is out of stock or they don't carry the brand I need.
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Apr 9, 2015 04:51
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I would very much appreciate some help understanding this graph: Motor Kv: higher number means less torque but higher RPMs, correct? Why are some boxes grayed out? Too much/little power for the truck to handle? Related to previous, should I buy a 1700 Kv motor in order to keep my battery options flexible? How can I figure out what motors will fit the motor mount and motor heatsink? Do I have to figure out the dimensions? I have tried reading the manual, browsing the rctech.net forums, and googling, but can't figure out how to determine what motors will fit this hardware.
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Apr 9, 2015 04:56
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jonathan posted:Youtube. Some really good channels on there that beat the poo poo out of stuff and review what needs to be fixed etc. Thanks for the info. Its likely going to be mostly trails/rocks/etc, not a lot of wide-open space here. So likely the Axial Yeti or Wraith, albeit both are at the upper-upper limit of what I wanted to spend. Anyone have opinions on the Axial SCX10/AX10 series? They also look like decent prices for what they are. As to a kit, if I get my first and like it, I'm going to kit a Yeti XL. Then I can buy stuff here and there as I want, and put it together, but for my first I'd like an RTR just to "get into" the hobby. Lastly - are any of you Canadian, and if so, who do you buy from? I'm finding a lot more limited options for us, and shipping from the states can suck when you get smacked with a $70 import fee that kills off any price difference.
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Apr 9, 2015 14:05
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I loooove my SCX10—it's my favorite RC ever. Scale crawling and trail running really appeals to me though. It's slower and more about kindof relaxing fun than exciting stuff, though really tricky crawling is still very active in that you're thinking a lot and have to be precise.
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Apr 9, 2015 15:41
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Kibner posted:I would very much appreciate some help understanding this graph: Higher Kv is more RPM, less torque, but in a sense more power (especially when more volts are applied) The grayed out areas indicate that the gearing would be outside of optimal range for your vehicle. If you overgear you will likely roast your motor/ESC. Not sure for your conversion what would be best. I know that a dude (Dan I think?) @ Kershaw Designs might have a good suggestion for a motor to go with and mount. Siochain posted:Thanks for the info. Its likely going to be mostly trails/rocks/etc, not a lot of wide-open space here. So likely the Axial Yeti or Wraith, albeit both are at the upper-upper limit of what I wanted to spend. I love my SCX10 Honcho. It is the best RC car I own (and I own a lot). If you are in the central/eastern region of Canada give my boy Ryan @ Eliminator RC a call. If you are in the western region (Alberta) then I would have you check out PM Hobbycraft. I am feeling an itch that needs a scratch. I am thinking it is between a Yeti 1/10 kit or a Yeti XL kit. I will mull it over a bit before I decide but right now I am leaning more small Yeti. In the mean time, watch Tosh.0 make fun of a guy that hit himself with a 90+MPH RC Car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bbXaF1fRY4
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Apr 9, 2015 19:33
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Somewhat Heroic posted:I love my SCX10 Honcho. It is the best RC car I own (and I own a lot). If you are in the central/eastern region of Canada give my boy Ryan @ Eliminator RC a call. If you are in the western region (Alberta) then I would have you check out PM Hobbycraft. I'm NE Ontario (used to live in Brandon, just west of Winnipeg hahah). I'll maybe drop them a line and see what they've got. Thanks a ton. Also, the Yeti looks stellar as well.
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Apr 9, 2015 19:52
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Higher Kv is more RPM, less torque, but in a sense more power (especially when more volts are applied) Thanks for the tips! I will see if I can find someone with Kershaw Designs to help me out.
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Apr 9, 2015 21:08
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Somewhat Heroic posted:
Get the XL kit. The Yeti 1/10 needs a few upgrades out of the box. The XL really doesn't. Unless space or $$ is stopping you I would get the XL no question.
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Apr 9, 2015 22:46
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All you guys crawling with the XL, did you put a diff fluid in it? I know it doesn't come with lockers out of the box.....or does it?
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Apr 9, 2015 23:09
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Kibner posted:I would very much appreciate some help understanding this graph: The grayed out boxes just mean those motor choices are not applicable for that battery voltage. Essentially, as you go up in cell count (eg 6s v. 4s) you need a motor with a significantly lower kV rating. kV times input voltage will give you the operating RPM of the motor, and generally with 1/8th stuff you don't want to see much more than 32k rpm. For example, a 2050kV motor on 4s is essentially the same rpm as a 1400kV motor on 6s (although the torque curves, battery weight, and efficiency will be different. Higher voltage setups have less amp draw and due to this you can get away with running a smaller capacity battery to get the same runtime). Any 1/8th motor is going to be mindnumbingly fast when geared properly. A very common racing setup is a 1900kV motor on 4s. 1700 will be torquier and require more gearing to match the same top speeds, but easier to drive (although you're putting more stress on the motor and battery...)
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Apr 10, 2015 00:41
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needknees posted:The grayed out boxes just mean those motor choices are not applicable for that battery voltage. Essentially, as you go up in cell count (eg 6s v. 4s) you need a motor with a significantly lower kV rating. kV times input voltage will give you the operating RPM of the motor, and generally with 1/8th stuff you don't want to see much more than 32k rpm. For example, a 2050kV motor on 4s is essentially the same rpm as a 1400kV motor on 6s (although the torque curves, battery weight, and efficiency will be different. Higher voltage setups have less amp draw and due to this you can get away with running a smaller capacity battery to get the same runtime). Thanks for more info for me to chew on! This is a monster truck, so I'm ok with giving up some RPM for a little bit more torque. I'm also exchanging emails with Dan from Kershaw Designs to help figure out what I need/want. But all this information is definitely good since I am learning about brushless motors and lipos from scratch, so thanks again.
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Apr 10, 2015 01:19
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Bit of a dumb question, but i'm curious. Let's say i'm looking at getting an SCX10 Trail Honcho in a few months, but I want to throw some sort of muscle car body on there. What scale should I be shopping for if I want to use a classic Camaro / Charger / Mustang shell, and how hard would it be to adapt one to fit an SCX10? I have... plans 
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Apr 10, 2015 03:37
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:All you guys crawling with the XL, did you put a diff fluid in it? I know it doesn't come with lockers out of the box.....or does it? Kit comes with 20000cst diff oil. I just used that. Some guys put heavier stuff in though. Does not come with lockers.
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Apr 10, 2015 05:18
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Okay, so thanks to everyone here, I'm pretty much settled on the SCX10 Honcho. Seems to be a great ride out of the box, doesn't need anything to start playing with, but has a ton of options available for later. So the only question left - what do people recommend for batteries and a charger? Charger, I'm okay with dropping a little more on - I'd rather get something really good to start with. For charger, I'm currently thinking about : http://www.greathobbies.com/productinfo/?prod_id=HIT44176 For batteries, LiPo seems to be a no brainer. I'm looking at 4200 mah 2S Lipos with 20/25C - sounds about right for the SCX10, yes? The Gens ACE seem well rated/very popular, is there anything else I should be looking at? Any preference on brands? Anyone a little more "water-resistant" than others? And tools - what should I grab? A basic driver set? Should I grab any engine cleaner or tire glue or anything of that sort? I have to order online, so I may as well get everything I can in one go. Thanks again folks, you guys are awesome.
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Apr 10, 2015 14:57
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Welp, after messing around for a week or so with a 1/24 sct I got off craigslist for $40, I ordered a Yeti XL kit  I was trying to decide if I wanted to get back into RC, and apparently I do.I've still got my old Airtronics MX3 FHSS, but I really didn't like the binding glitch nonsense I always had with it. I might pick up a FlySky GT-3C, or maybe I'll spring for something in the $100-120 range. I'd really like AVC for something this huge and.. floppy? Haven't ever experienced it, but it sure sounds nice. The plan is Motor: Neu-Castle 1515 1Y 2200kv ESC: HobbyWing QUICRUN-WP-8BL150 Servo: Hitec HS-7954SH From what I'm reading, I might need a programmable BEC to max out the voltage to the servo. I only rarely used BEC's in my former air stuff, and it wasn't anything performance based. The last time I messed with fast RC, it was Novak brushless stuff and a Tamiya DB01. This is going to take a while to put together, but I'll hopefully having it running by midsummer or so. I build trails for a living and I'm surrounded by parks, so a sort of perfect trails drive/bash/grass monster sounds like something I'll like. e: and this seemed like an amazingly good deal http://www.ebay.com/itm/261736906366 Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Apr 10, 2015 |
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Apr 10, 2015 23:08
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Hypnolobster posted:Welp, after messing around for a week or so with a 1/24 sct I got off craigslist for $40, I ordered a Yeti XL kit Hey, congrats. I just placed my order for an SCX10 Honcho plus all the goodies (2 batteries, charger, toolkit, etc.) If I like this as much as I hope, I'm going to do a Yeti, Yeti XL, or TrailFinder 2 kit at some point (or maybe something else). So much cool poo poo.
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Apr 11, 2015 00:16
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Finally done with my Yeti XL. Pics    
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Apr 11, 2015 03:21
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Hypnolobster posted:Welp, after messing around for a week or so with a 1/24 sct I got off craigslist for $40, I ordered a Yeti XL kit That was the exact setup I was going to get. I went with the Tekin RX8 Gen 2 ESC because the internal BEC in this ESC is good and can push 7.4v without issue. I bought a Castle 10amp BEC and a glitch buster but didn't need them. So far I'm happy with the Tekin ESC and Tekin 2250Kv motor combo. The most important piece for the Yeti is a good steering servo. Something with high torque like the ProTek 170T or that Hitec HS-7954SH does the job well. Just remember to crank the BEC to 7.4v to get the 403oz of torque it can put out. You will need an external BEC on that HobbyWing ESC, looks like the internal BEC only puts out 6v max. Get the 10amp Castle BEC and the Castle Link to program it and you should be all set. You will also need some wires to make a series connector for the 2 LiPos and tire glue. Kit comes with blue Loctite and grease though. I used red Loctite on my pinion though. Came off first time out using blue like the manual states. Tire glue: http://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/aka38001.htm this stuff rocks. Haven't broke a bead yet. Castle 10amp BEC: http://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/cse095-0022-00.htm Castle Link Programmer: http://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/csephxl.htm 14 Guage wire: http://www.acerracing.com/ball_bearings/Superworm_Silicone_Wire_14_Gauge_10_feet-1464-75.html very high quality wire and cheap! Axial 24t Aluminum Servo Horn: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Axial-Racing-AX30835-Axial-Aluminum-Servo-Horn-24T-/261845774761?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cf73971a9 looks like that servo comes with an aluminum servo horn though. The one that came with mine was a little to long and it bound up. I wish I would of bought an electric hobby screw gun. I had a huge blister on my thumb from turning all those hexes with hand tools. Also make sure you install the four shims that go on the end of your drive shafts up front behind your hex nut. This is not in the manual in the box but on the website. 4 on each front drive shaft. jdfording fucked around with this message at 10:11 on Apr 11, 2015 |
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Apr 11, 2015 09:54
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Awesome, thanks for the info. I'm sort of waffling on the motor/esc combo. Since I'm taking my time with the build, I might just go for it. $45ish for a bec and programmer, and the motor/esc that I was planning on is over $200, so at that point it's not a giant leap to just go for a Tekin combo or something similar. Did you use the Hotwire programmer for your ESC? I'm blown away that this sort of thing is even possible. The last time I was into RC it was buttons and beeps. Thanks for the servo horn link too. I hadn't found a good answer online on which would fit without doing too much clearancing on the body, because who knows if the Hitec one will fit.. I think one of the first things I do to it will be the Hot Racing bellcrank.
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Apr 11, 2015 18:24
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jdfording posted:Finally done with my Yeti XL. Looks really good, diggin' the sort of military coloring. Out of curiosity, did you put your phone or something on it to see what it tops out at?
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Apr 12, 2015 01:33
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jdfording posted:Finally done with my Yeti XL. Man that looks good. I am so dang close to buying one of these.
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Apr 12, 2015 03:51
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After talking it over with a friend if I get a new kit it will be a Yeti XL over the 1/10 version for a few reasons. The YXL will hold up to bigger power better, it seems more durable out of the box. The big thing is that it will be able to tackle rougher terrain better than the 1/10 version with the bigger tires and supple suspension soaking up the bumps. The cost of electronics between the two is nearly negligible for how I'd set either one up. The only drawback will be dual batteries.
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Apr 12, 2015 05:16
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Yeti XL talk: Is it worth going for a sensored setup (Tekin 1350kv/1550kv and 6s or 2250kv and 4s?) or just going the cheaper route and getting a sensorless 2200KV setup that will run up to 6s? The XL is so drat big that it seems fun as hell for doing trails+random crawling. I'd like the top speed/bashing potential, but I'd also really like to have a bunch of torque and as much runtime as possible. The Tekin stuff isn't waterproof either, which is a little rough. It's a hard choice. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 06:57 on Apr 12, 2015 |
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Apr 12, 2015 06:43
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Hypnolobster posted:Awesome, thanks for the info. I used Hotwire. Set the BEC to 7.4v and reversed the engine. Super easy to use. If you go with a Tekin motor you can also tweak it with Hotwire but I haven't needed to. I had the drag brake set at 25% but took it off. Wasn't needed.
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Apr 12, 2015 13:24
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Hypnolobster posted:Yeti XL talk: Sensored is the way to go. It gives you much more throttle control at low speed/crawling. Much more precise. No cogging. You can run a sensored motor without the sensor cable hooked up also. I'm only using 2s and the Yeti is fast enough for me. It seems once you jump to 4s and 6s you will break a lot more/need more upgrades. With 2s and stock setup it's easy to drive at high speeds. I'm getting hour long run times with a mix of high speed/crawling. I haven't measured the top speed but I'm guessing around 30mph at full throttle. Plenty fast for me. I took mine out to the RC park yesterday and some guy had a dedicated crawler rig and I was climbing everything they did albeit less gracefully but also had high speed to brute force through stuff. The Yeti is more than a one trick pony. Doesn't crawl as good as a dedicated crawler rig but it holds it's own on any terrain and looks badass doing it. jdfording fucked around with this message at 13:40 on Apr 12, 2015 |
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Apr 12, 2015 13:29
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The only downside to the XL is when you're with a bunch of people and they all have 1/10 scale stuff. And you have essentially a 1/5 scale vehicle running them over.
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Apr 12, 2015 16:27
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jonathan posted:The only downside to the XL is when you're with a bunch of people and they all have 1/10 scale stuff. And you have essentially a 1/5 scale vehicle running them over. This is true. I regret selling my SCX10 Honcho. I might sell my MST drift car and pick up a another one.
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Apr 12, 2015 22:26
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Hit the trails today with some local crawlers. We had a couple of SCX10's, a Wraith, two Ascenders, a Tamiya CC-01 something-or-other, and a Lunchbox for farting around in the parking lot. Good, muddy times.   
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Apr 12, 2015 22:43
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bisticles posted:Hit the trails today with some local crawlers. We had a couple of SCX10's, a Wraith, two Ascenders, a Tamiya CC-01 something-or-other, and a Lunchbox for farting around in the parking lot. Good, muddy times. Awesome, that looks like a ton of fun! My SCX10 should be here Weds/Thursday, and provided my basement has quit taking on water like the Titanic, I should have it ready to play with by the weekend General question - for waterproofing, do you guys Plasti-Dip, Balloon method, or something else? I think I'm going to balloon first just so I can easily "undo" it, but I'm curious what people here do (if anything)
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Apr 13, 2015 01:48
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Siochain posted:Awesome, that looks like a ton of fun! My SCX10 should be here Weds/Thursday, and provided my basement has quit taking on water like the Titanic, I should have it ready to play with by the weekend Leaky basements suck. We put up with that for a few years before I got fed up and spent a bunch of money on a B-Dry system. Not a drop since. Wish I did it *before* losing a bunch of appliances to a busted sump pump. On the subject of water, for receivers, I use a balloon, since the wires are thin and it's easy to get it water-tight. For ESCs, I'll plasti-dip or liquid electrical tape the circuitry minus the heat sink.
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Apr 13, 2015 05:12
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The Losi Micro DT is a hell of a thing.  If the wires didn't give it away... that almost looks 1/10 scale.  The DT ships with the 150mah cell like the Micro-T does. But with a foam spacer to hold the battery fore, or aft in the battery compartment. Moving it shifts the weight balance from 40/60 to 36/64. I'm not entirely sure what that'll do yet. The bigger battery box will also hold the 220mah pack from a Trail Trekker or Micro High Roller. Most reports I've read and watched about the truck, complain about the rear suspension being soft. It strikes me most people reviewing this truck haven't done serious r/c.. the rear end sagging is to level the driveshafts, and provide enough up and down travel. They complain about the back end bottoming out... and that's perfectly ok. It's a great way to deal with to much down motion. Just feed it to the dirt ;-) ... I should put tape on the bottom of my truck, shouldn't I? What they miss, is damping. Losi sells oil filled shocks for the Micro-T and DT. I should find a set of those...
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Apr 13, 2015 09:30
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I softened up my slash rear suspension last night by pulling the spring preload spacers and angling the shocks a bit more. The car was so much more planted and stable. But it was riding a bit low and bottoming out the rear bulkhead on bumps, limiting speed. Then I took it to the street, caught the rear skid on a lifted corner of sidewalk and tore the entire car in half. So should I go for the $40 traxxas lcg chassis, or the pro line $140 one.
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Apr 13, 2015 15:42
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You Am I posted:VTA at my track runs 21.5T and we're looking at doing a VTA-fest where people can run 13.5T and Open motors I think this post is going to cost me a lot of money.
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Apr 13, 2015 16:44
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jonathan posted:So should I go for the $40 traxxas lcg chassis, or the pro line $140 one. Go for the one with the most carbon fibre bits. Weight savings 
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Apr 13, 2015 18:20
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bisticles posted:Leaky basements suck. We put up with that for a few years before I got fed up and spent a bunch of money on a B-Dry system. Not a drop since. Wish I did it *before* losing a bunch of appliances to a busted sump pump. Thanks. Yeah, I wish I could plasti-dip my basement. It seems to be tapering off, and as long as it doesn't rain in the next few days I'll hopefully be out of the woods. Minus the $300 dehumidifier, $200 shop vac, and however much it costs to replace our wet/dry central vac that literally went up in smoke this morning. gently caress you universe, I want to have more money for RC stuff :P In terms of the electronics, awesome, thanks. I was thinking of leaving the receiver in a balloon, since its got a waterproof box, so it should be good. ESC and servo I'll do up, and then silicone the batteries around the seams. Can't wait, only 2-3 days until delivery hahah.
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Apr 13, 2015 19:06
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Think I found my next project... http://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/jungm53000.htm This thing looks amazing.
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Apr 14, 2015 01:43
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Some kid i'm following on youtube has been building scale tube frame trophy trucks. He says Axial contacted him a bit ago. Detailed 360 view of chassis https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2S8T-3fhGI Body test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVGVTNPiRr0 His old chassis attacking the whoops. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1iiFk8qR8D0 He started out cutting up 2wd slash and adding a solid axle but has moved on to fully fabricated custom builds. If there was a builders kit I would throw $$$ at it so quick. FYI Trophy trucks (and short course trucks) are solid rear axle, 2 wheel drive, independent fronts with a very narrow bulkhead and very long a-arms They're around 24" travel in the front and 32" travel rear. Short course stuff is lighter and made for springs, the trophy trucks are built for Baja 1000, Mint 400 etc. Generally they make around 800 horsepower and weigh in around 6000lbs.
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Apr 14, 2015 17:20
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Got my rc4wd billet aluminium 2 speed trans for the wraith. Now to install. With no instructions lol.
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Apr 14, 2015 19:48
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Okay so I'm going to pick up a SCX10. Should I get a RTR or the Kit? Kits don't scare me, I build planes and used to race RC 1/10 scale. Just wondering if the stuff included in the RTR is worth it for starting out? I sold 90% of my surface stuff but still have a radio and charges, would just need to buy the rest of the electronics if I went kit.
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Apr 14, 2015 22:57
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Tindjin posted:Okay so I'm going to pick up a SCX10. Should I get a RTR or the Kit? Kits don't scare me, I build planes and used to race RC 1/10 scale. Just wondering if the stuff included in the RTR is worth it for starting out? I sold 90% of my surface stuff but still have a radio and charges, would just need to buy the rest of the electronics if I went kit. If you're not afraid of the kit, do that. I did RTR, but I have literally nothing, and I figure its a good way to get started on the hobby. I'm going to tinker around, slowly replacing things, and when/if I want a second/the wife wants one, I'll buy a kit and put the stuff I've taken off into it :P fake edit - loving get delivered damnit. Everything should be here on Thursday, but I want it tomorrow (not that I can play with anything while my basement is wet, but, I wants it!) Siochain fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Apr 14, 2015 |
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Apr 14, 2015 23:23
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