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Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal

Geoj posted:

Sounds like your lights are out of alignment. Procedure for aiming is usually park the car on a level surface X feet/meters from a flat background, measure the distance from the ground to the center mark on the headlight, then add Y inches/centimeters to this and make a horizontal line on the surface. Then you raise/lower the beam until the cutoff is on that line.

I can't remember the formula off the top of my head, it's been a while since I had to aim headlights.

e: this might help: https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html

He's driving from a RHD country to a LHD country.

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Black88GTA
Oct 8, 2009
Cracked knock sensors should be replaced as a rule, even if the car appears to be behaving itself and not throwing any codes, right? Because guess what I found when I pulled the intake manifold off of the 840 to do the gaskets today. It's not just one either, it's all loving four of them. :suicide:

I'm pretty sure I know the answer, but gently caress :sigh:

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Black88GTA posted:

Cracked knock sensors should be replaced as a rule, even if the car appears to be behaving itself and not throwing any codes, right? Because guess what I found when I pulled the intake manifold off of the 840 to do the gaskets today. It's not just one either, it's all loving four of them. :suicide:

I'm pretty sure I know the answer, but gently caress :sigh:

It's a lot more important on a forced induction motor but yes they should be replaced.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
98 Civic, steering wheel shakes only when braking above 65mph. I've taken it for a few spirited drives with lots of heavy braking in case it is deposits on the rotors but that hasn't helped.

Pads/rotors were just replaced in December and the calipers were both replaced within the last 18 months.

Fender Anarchist
May 20, 2009

Fender Anarchist

Did the shaking start soon after replacing the pads/rotors? Rotors can sometimes have thickness variations straight out of the box. Maybe see about getting them machined (the shop may or may not require you to get new pads, it's a policy at some places.)

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

Fucknag posted:

Did the shaking start soon after replacing the pads/rotors? Rotors can sometimes have thickness variations straight out of the box. Maybe see about getting them machined (the shop may or may not require you to get new pads, it's a policy at some places.)

No, this just started a few days ago

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



CharlesM posted:

He's driving from a RHD country to a LHD country.

Having attempted to block bits out with bits of tape myself with no obvious effect on the light pattern I have given up and shall have to try and buy some of the expensive stickers on my way to the channel today!

spog
Aug 7, 2004

It's your own bloody fault.

Tomarse posted:

Having attempted to block bits out with bits of tape myself with no obvious effect on the light pattern I have given up and shall have to try and buy some of the expensive stickers on my way to the channel today!

http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/travel-accessories/car-headlamp-converters/halfords-headlamp-converters#tab3

Don't waste money on the expensive stickers: look at the video there where a very dull man will tell you where to stick them on an MG - but also explains the philosophy of where to stick them (it is counter-intuitive)

Here's the vehicle list:
http://www.motoring-into-europe.co.uk/download/travel-spot-latest-vehicle-listing.pdf

Here's the fitting diagram:
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2dafxv6&s=8#.VSuMW_DMkiU

Here's 6! tedious videos on how to fit them:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkMlqhpQZ78

spog fucked around with this message at 10:30 on Apr 13, 2015

Zipperelli.
Apr 3, 2011



Nap Ghost
So yesterday I washed a bunch of pollen off my car, in the afternoon. I didn't chamois it, went inside for about 10 minutes, then came out and drove her around town. Later last night, as the sun started to go down, I went ahead and gave her a full and proper wash. While doing so, I see these spots start to materialize all over my roof, my hood, my trunk, and my spoiler.



This one is probabaly the worst one:


The spot in the second picture, you can BAAARELY feel if you run your fingers over it, but none of the others. These spots literally popped up in the course of a couple hours, and I initially thought they were water spots, but I couldn't get rid of them. The more I think about it, the more I'm worried it's my clearcoat (still the factory paint). This really doesn't make sense because it's an '07 RX-8 that had one previous owner, garage kept, and driven only on the weekends (bought it with <35,000 miles), and these spots are beginning to pop up on the factory spoiler I JUST bought, last month.

Any ideas on what they are, and, more importantly, how to get rid of them? A friend of mine said that it's entirely possible that the dealership I bought it from put a metric fuckton of wax on the car, and it could just be the wax coming off unevenly. I'm at a loss though, and kind of upset, because I've had cars that were 15 years old with spectacular paint.

KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008

Happiness is a warm
Turbo Plasma Rifle


If in doubt, give it a good wash and hit it with a claybar. They could just be hard water spots, depending on the water in your area.

If it really is a thick-rear end layer of wax coming off, you should probably wash it off completely (using dish soap instead of car shampoo, to eat the wax) and re-wax it.

Paradoxish
Dec 19, 2003

Will you stop going crazy in there?
Anytime I've had a paint panic moment, I usually just clean the spot really well, hit it with a claybar, and then do some light buffing/polishing if whatever is still there. Your best bet is to just tackle one of those spots (probably the worst one) with progressively more aggressive methods and see what happens. Honestly, it doesn't really look like clear coat peeling and it doesn't make sense that that would happen all over the car instantly anyway.

Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe
Is there a rust converter paint that can be dabbed on? I've got a number of rock chips that need attention.

WashinMyGoat
Jan 15, 2002

My 1996 Subaru leaks oil like crazy. I think I still have a few more years in her, but I plan on moving to a new house soon, and I want to avoid destroying my driveway. Has anyone had experience with using a KoossPad http://koosspad.com/kp/ ?

It's essentially a maxi pad for a car. But my real question is this: I can get oil absorbent pads in bulk from my work. I have a box of Hook and Loop (velcro) adhesive strips. Does anyone know what could be in the Primer from the KoossPad kit? I think I could make some DIY pads for my car for cheap, but I don't want to waste my time if I can't get the pads to stick.

Gringo Heisenberg
May 30, 2009




:dukedog:
Anyone have any experience with ADESA auto auction? Thinking of getting a car from their dealer only auction but kinda nervous on not being able to get it checked out before buying.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Phy posted:

Is there a rust converter paint that can be dabbed on? I've got a number of rock chips that need attention.

Rustoleum, but in cities where spray paint is illegal.

Chicago! :argh:

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012
Beware long post.........

I just got a 2000 toyota camry running after it had been sitting in the driveway for 2.5 years. It had been in a bit of an accident with a guardrail the last time it was driven which caused mostly cosmetic damage. maybe some not so cosmetic damage that doesn't seem to have affected the driving except for some chunks of rim being taken out which feel like they have made the wheels out of balance. I'm not sure this has any relation to the current issue but thought I would throw it out there.

So the battery had sat in the car the whole time going dead. I put it on a battery charger I had like 2-3 weeks ago when I wanted to get it inspected and going again. I always expected this battery to poo poo the bead but I wanted to put it off as long as I could get away with. eventually 2.5 weeks or so after driving it the battery icon popped up on the dash and slowly electronics quit behaving. such as the radio randomly turning off. Eventually I noticed the automatic headlights didn't switch on automatically. The windshield wipers hardly wanted to work. They just moved really slowly.

Finally today the battery just crapped itself. Turning the key did as much as if the battery was disconnected. Luckily I was on a hill so I just bump started it and drove to an auto store to get a new battery. I sort of expected everything to go back to normal with the new battery, but my luck wouldn't have it. After i installed it the car started right up, but the little battery icon was still on. When I got home I put it on a battery charger thinking maybe it had just lost some juice sitting on the shelf. The charger didn't indicate it was fully charged so I just left it on and checked 2 hours later and the green charged light was on. I started it back up again and the stupid light is still on. I wasn't sure if it was like those pesky check engine lights that need a few cycles to turn off so I just disconnected the battery and drained whatever was left with the brake. I reconnected the battery and start it up and the light comes right back on, even though I know the battery is fully charged for sure.

That's kind of annoying but what is also weird is now the automatic lights don't turn on. Not even the driving lights. Normally as soon as I take the hand brake off the driving lights pop on which they didn't. If it's dark which it was. The full headlights should turn on after being in gear for a few seconds. nothing happens.


If anyone has an idea of what is going on or what I should search for that would help a bunch. Before the car got put out of commission there was never any indication the alternator wasn't working so I hate to think it is that. All googling gives my threads of people wanting to turn the auto headlight feature off instead of it not working. I don't have a multimeter so I haven't been able to check any voltages but I plan to go back to the store down the road and use theirs. As far as I know it should read 12 volts with engine off and a range of low to upper 14 volts with the engine on?

without me having volts measured can anyone give me insight into the battery icon in the dash and why the headlights don't turn on properly.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

The battery icon is actually your alternator warning light. Your alternator has either taken a poo poo or thrown a belt. If your power steering is still working, it's your alternator.

Protip for the future: If you suspect a battery is bad, replace it. It'll eventually take out your alternator.

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012
That's A good thing to know after it has happened. But yes the power steering still works. I checked the belt on the alternator this evening and it still feels tight. The alternator spins with the engine on so it hasn't seized or anything. From what I read online people seamed to say the light meant either a bad battery or alternator. I was about certain because of the conditions leading up to it. but gently caress this car is worth a very small amount. I hate to put another 130 bucks to buy a new alternator. It still needs to rear brake pads. Ideally some frame adjustments on the front radiator mount but that isn't all that important to the car working as it should.


I'm still going to borrow a multi meter and check voltages but you sound pretty certain so I might just be confirming what you told me.


because every detail helps. I did start the car up the other day and hear some squeling which I thought sounded like a slipping belt or something. But it went away as soon as It was in gear and i put some throttle on so I didn't really think anything of it at the time. I think I only need this car to last 4-5 months at most but I do want to sell it and would like to have everything working so I can say that yea is looks like poo poo but it is mechanically sound. It's hard to do that when I know something isn't working right.

It has only been like 3 days since the battery icon came on though. does that really indicate the alternator is hosed. I would hope cars were designed to not kill alternators while the care still turned on and ran fine up until 3 days ago before flashing the light.I mean it has like 10 miles on it since the light turned on. I charged it after the first time and it went off and worked fine for like 3-4 days.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Once that light is on, the alternator isn't charging at all. It doesn't mean a bad battery, it means your battery isn't receiving a charge.

If money is a concern, go find a u-pull-it style junkyard with 2000 Camry with the same engine.

Once that light is on, you're running on purely battery power. If you have a really strong battery, you could drive a couple of hours. If it's pretty weak, it might last 15 minutes. Either way, it's just going to ruin your new battery if you keep trying to drive it.

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012
I have a yard I know of. I could probably eventually figure this out with enough searching but do all camry use the same alternator. I have the v6 and I would guess the majority are all I4 engines. Basically like could I pull an alternator off of any camry or do I have to find a wrecked v6

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

www.amazon.com posted:

I have a yard I know of. I could probably eventually figure this out with enough searching but do all camry use the same alternator. I have the v6 and I would guess the majority are all I4 engines. Basically like could I pull an alternator off of any camry or do I have to find a wrecked v6

I just looked on Rockauto; it looks like the 4cyl and 6cyl alternators are different part numbers. The 4cyl has a 90A, while the 6cyl has an 80A. Looks like they have different pulleys, and the case is clocked differently. So, if you can't find one from a V6, maybe get an I4 alternator, rent a pulley puller tool, and swap your old pulley on and rotate the case to match.

Also, if your local yard is on row52.com, you can check current inventory. Might save you a trip, if you know they don't have the right car.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I'd say it's about a 70/30 mix of 4/6 cylinder.

You might also check a 2000 Toyota Avalon, 2000 Lexus ES300, or 2000 Lexus RX300. Same engine as a V6 Camry, but you'll need to check part numbers first. The Lexus variants may be VVTi (it'll say VVTi on the plastic engine cover), which may mean a different alternator compared to the normal 1MZ-FE V6 that you have. I know for sure the 2000 Avalon did not have VVTi. Toyota really used that engine in a bit of everything. You may also find it in a Solara, and anything else using a 3.0 V6 from the late 90s/early 00s.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:52 on Apr 14, 2015

Memento
Aug 25, 2009


Bleak Gremlin
Someone tell me more about this beautiful bastard. Saw it on the way home this afternoon and managed to snap a quick picture. Click for huge.

KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008

Happiness is a warm
Turbo Plasma Rifle


Memento posted:

Someone tell me more about this beautiful bastard. Saw it on the way home this afternoon and managed to snap a quick picture. Click for huge.



It's a Volvo 262C. Styled by Bertone and built in Italy, unfortunately it's saddled by the shittastic PRV V6.

However, a V8 swap into one would be totally rad.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

some texas redneck posted:

I'd say it's about a 70/30 mix of 4/6 cylinder.

You might also check a 2000 Toyota Avalon, 2000 Lexus ES300, or 2000 Lexus RX300. Same engine as a V6 Camry, but you'll need to check part numbers first. The Lexus variants may be VVTi (it'll say VVTi on the plastic engine cover), which may mean a different alternator compared to the normal 1MZ-FE V6 that you have. I know for sure the 2000 Avalon did not have VVTi. Toyota really used that engine in a bit of everything. You may also find it in a Solara, and anything else using a 3.0 V6 from the late 90s/early 00s.

Sienna also had that motor, but the same caution applies about checking if the alternator is the same.

Memento
Aug 25, 2009


Bleak Gremlin

KozmoNaut posted:

It's a Volvo 262C. Styled by Bertone and built in Italy, unfortunately it's saddled by the shittastic PRV V6.

However, a V8 swap into one would be totally rad.

Yep, one of those with an LS-something swap just went a very long way up my "project cars I would love to build" list. That engine sounds like a loving boat anchor.

edit: they can't be that rare, actually, there's three on carsales right now.

edit edit: jesus those loving seats are abhorrent

Memento fucked around with this message at 10:09 on Apr 14, 2015

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

www.amazon.com posted:

Beware long post.........

You drove around with a bad battery, causing your alternator to run at 100% trying to make up for it. You trashed your alternator (more specifically the voltage regulator) because of this.

The alternator light being on doesn't necessarily mean it's not charging at all, just that it's not charging sufficiently.

Change your alternator and don't drive around with bad batteries. Or bad alternators. Either one will destroy the other.

Neptr
Mar 1, 2011

WashinMyGoat posted:

My 1996 Subaru leaks oil like crazy. I think I still have a few more years in her, but I plan on moving to a new house soon, and I want to avoid destroying my driveway. Has anyone had experience with using a KoossPad http://koosspad.com/kp/ ?

It's essentially a maxi pad for a car. But my real question is this: I can get oil absorbent pads in bulk from my work. I have a box of Hook and Loop (velcro) adhesive strips. Does anyone know what could be in the Primer from the KoossPad kit? I think I could make some DIY pads for my car for cheap, but I don't want to waste my time if I can't get the pads to stick.

If you still have a few years left in her, I would track down the source of the leak and see if it's something you can fix.

Sentient Data
Aug 31, 2011

My molecule scrambler ray will disintegrate your armor with one blow!
My turn signal fuse started blowing with no changes to the car, but the hazard flasher still works fine. The car has 3 blinking lights on each side, plus a constant white light on the side when the turn signal is on (but not the hazards). The fuse that blows is the proper size (10A), and when I noticed that it was blown the first time I replaced the fuse with a fresh one and tested it out; both sides worked properly for the duration of the walkaround test, but the fuse blew again at some point later in the day and I haven't replaced it again yet for fear of melting some wires.

The turn signal switch is on the same stalk as the wipers/cruise/high beam, and the wiper/beam controls still work properly - cruise doesn't seem to work, but it never did and I'm guessing it's an iffy vacuum in the solenoid. Haven't tried replacing the flasher relay since I don't have a replacement; it did work for an unknown duration during and after the walkaround, but its probably the stock quarter-century-old one and the hazard flasher relay did need a replacement a few months ago. Thoughts?

Suave Fedora
Jun 10, 2004

ExecuDork posted:



Stop loving around on the internet and buy this RIGHT GODDAM NOW! Sunday Drives in that beast are going to be every kind of awesome.

Rangerchat! I'm shopping for exactly that: a Ranger from between about 1989 and 2004 for a budget of around $2500 - $3500. Which engine do you have in yours? I've been told to seek out the I4 2.3L (2.5L after 1998). I find the XLT trim, with extended cab (jump seats!) and 4x4 if I can find it, most appealing. How has yours been treating you so far?

You have the right idea. My truck is the basic model V6. I couldn't tell you the exact literage (gently caress you I made it up) but it has the extended cab with the little babby seat(s?) behind the driver side. Rear-wear drive.

So far it's been as expected. It's a beater truck with completely-shot suspension, the A/C works, the power steering sounds like a wounded animal, radio works but sometimes turns off on its own (I power it down after driving to avoid mishaps with the battery). He's never left me stranded yet, but did give me a dead battery at home once, possibly due to aforementioned radio poo poo. The exterior looks like dogshit and I tried to cover the fiberglass of the bed with fiberglass patches and resin and that lasted about 9 months before the resin started to disintegrate. Um sometimes the key gets stuck in the door, I have to replace the seats because they lean in towards the door, and the tailgate is missing the handle so I had to remove the plastic back to the tailgate so I can open it manually by pulling the metal rods connecting to the two latches on either side. I've replaced the rear brakelight covers myself.

This is my truck. There are many others like it but this one is mine.

Suave Fedora
Jun 10, 2004
Is there still such a thing as a break-in period for new engines? I'm at 1k on the 2015 Dodge Durango and would like to know if I could open her up already and ride more masculinely.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

Suave Fedora posted:

Is there still such a thing as a break-in period for new engines? I'm at 1k on the 2015 Dodge Durango and would like to know if I could open her up already and ride more masculinely.

Read your manual and then go beat the gently caress out of it.

Suave Fedora
Jun 10, 2004

quote:

ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS

A long break-in period is not required for the engine and
drivetrain (transmission and axle) in your vehicle.

Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km).

After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or
55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable.

While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the
limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in.

Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental
and should be avoided.

I can feel the hair on my chest growing.

Memento
Aug 25, 2009


Bleak Gremlin

Suave Fedora posted:

You have the right idea. My truck is the basic model V6. I couldn't tell you the exact literage (gently caress you I made it up) but it has the extended cab with the little babby seat(s?) behind the driver side. Rear-wear drive.

So far it's been as expected. It's a beater truck with completely-shot suspension, the A/C works, the power steering sounds like a wounded animal, radio works but sometimes turns off on its own (I power it down after driving to avoid mishaps with the battery). He's never left me stranded yet, but did give me a dead battery at home once, possibly due to aforementioned radio poo poo. The exterior looks like dogshit and I tried to cover the fiberglass of the bed with fiberglass patches and resin and that lasted about 9 months before the resin started to disintegrate. Um sometimes the key gets stuck in the door, I have to replace the seats because they lean in towards the door, and the tailgate is missing the handle so I had to remove the plastic back to the tailgate so I can open it manually by pulling the metal rods connecting to the two latches on either side. I've replaced the rear brakelight covers myself.

This is my truck. There are many others like it but this one is mine.

The word you're after is capacity. Also, your truck sounds awesome tbh.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Memento posted:

The word you're after is capacity. Also, your truck sounds awesome tbh.

"capacity" ain't no replacement for displacement. :colbert:

heat
Sep 4, 2003

The Mad Monk
The other day I changed the manual transmission fluid in my 01 Integra. When I removed the fill plug, about a quart of oil came squirting out (all over the goddamn floor because why would I have a pan ready under the fill plug?). Short of turning the entire car on its side, how on earth could so much extra oil get in there? Could it have absorbed water from the air?

That said it shifts a hell of a lot smoother now, Redline MTL represent

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

heat posted:

The other day I changed the manual transmission fluid in my 01 Integra. When I removed the fill plug, about a quart of oil came squirting out (all over the goddamn floor because why would I have a pan ready under the fill plug?). Short of turning the entire car on its side, how on earth could so much extra oil get in there? Could it have absorbed water from the air?

That said it shifts a hell of a lot smoother now, Redline MTL represent

It may have been filled from a higher point, like a dipstick tube.

heat
Sep 4, 2003

The Mad Monk

StormDrain posted:

It may have been filled from a higher point, like a dipstick tube.

There is no dipstick, which is what makes it so strange. I guess someone could get a bit extra in with a tight fitting hose and being really quick with the bolt but why the hell would anyone do that

Only registered members can see post attachments!

brand engager
Mar 23, 2011

Does it have any kind of switch or sensor screwed into it higher than the fill plug? It could have been filled through a speed sensor or something if that's mounted on top.

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Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

heat posted:

There is no dipstick, which is what makes it so strange. I guess someone could get a bit extra in with a tight fitting hose and being really quick with the bolt but why the hell would anyone do that



Could have been filled on an angle.

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