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quote:solder it's kinda funny, I mentioned soldering to prevent debate because last time I told the internet that I use mil grade crimps I got a lot of lip for being a stupid dummy. I just always figured that if a decent crimp with the right tool and some heat shrink was good enough for a $14,000,000 helicopter then it was probably good enough for my piece of poo poo car. Glad that's cleared up. quote:dissimilar metals / voltage This is interesting. I'm not sure what the crimps I use are made of but my spliced post-cat O2 sensor doesn't seem to be causing any issues. It's not critical to the tune though anyway I guess. Pierced Bronson fucked around with this message at 05:49 on Apr 16, 2015 |
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Apr 16, 2015 05:34
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Motronic posted:Unless you do it this way (PDF warning): How much to put an E30 on a Space X rocket to the ISS?
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Apr 16, 2015 05:45
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Since we're all on the subject of the superiority of old BMWs over new, I've got an opportunity for any Boston goons: http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/4981084302.html I'm posting through tears. It was my baby. VVVVV Edit: Yeah, with a specialty thing like a frankencar it's tough to gauge what's reasonable. On the one hand I've dumped so much money into this thing; on the other it's sort of a niche product and it needs some love. Ethelinda Sapsea fucked around with this message at 06:04 on Apr 16, 2015 |
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Apr 16, 2015 05:58
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That's a good deal. 
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Apr 16, 2015 06:00
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think i figured it out
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Apr 16, 2015 06:44
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BlackMK4 posted:That's a good deal. Lacks silver, no deal. 
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Apr 16, 2015 06:48
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So two weeks ago I took my car in to have the AC blower box replaced because it squeaks... they keep the car overnight two nights and then tell me that they don't have the part because another dealer got the last one in the country and they had to have the box shipped in from Germany. They got the part in this week and have had the car for two more nights until they finally call me today and tell me that they started reassembling the car but it doesn't fit. "You have a diesel, we ordered the normal 3 series part, it's going to be another week". Ahahaha. 
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Apr 16, 2015 16:41
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BlackMK4 posted:Ahahaha. lol at least they were forthcoming. I've done similar poo poo, ordering parts for whatever generation of car only to find out that big differences exist from year-to-year. For me it was an old habit formed from having fun ordering Ford Contour parts for my Mercury Cougar. For the dealer there's really no excuse; I work at my local BMW dealership and everything that gets done is worked off of the last 7 #'s of the VIN. The plus side is you still have a loaner to beat on.
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Apr 16, 2015 17:09
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Time to wrench on the e30 again today. It starts runs drives idles and all that good stuff, there's just a few issues: It hesitates to rev It hesitates to drop rpm It will not enter WOT mode The idle is the same cold as it is warm, 600-700rpm. It should idle warmer when cold, correct? Coolant temp still acts wonky. Doesn't overheat, but the needle won't stay put anywhere. Bad sensor? Putting the fuel filter on it today and inspecting the lines. Ordering a new coolant temp sensor and throttle position sensor. Testing the fuel pressure regulator, checking coolant for bubbles, testing plugs, visually inspecting ignition coil, checking the cold start valve, and crankshaft pos sensor, o2 sensor. Picking up a fuel rail gauge if they aren't stupidly expensive at the b&m. Would also like to inspect the AFM but I have no idea where to go with that, everyone online just says to convert to MAF and never look back. Any tips on these particular jobs? I have a decent idea of what I'm doing with most of them, but if any goons have messed around with any of these parts on an m20 car it would be nice to get some insight. Anything else that's quick and easy to check or likely to be causing my issues I should dig into while I'm in there? Hopefully I can track down my culprit and it's not a case of "everything's hosed"!
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Apr 16, 2015 17:26
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You have vacuum leaks. Coolant temp is probably in the gauge/gauge grounds, though you can test that with a multimeter. Don't convert to a MAF, it's expensive and makes little extra power. There are people that rebuild AFMs, if you aren't comfortable opening it up and moving the sweep arms yourself.
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Apr 16, 2015 17:45
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Pierced Bronson posted:The plus side is you still have a loaner to beat on. Betting it's a noline F30 320i xdrive with beige interior, nothing fun about those.
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Apr 16, 2015 17:49
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BlackMK4 posted:You have vacuum leaks. Coolant temp is probably in the gauge/gauge grounds, though you can test that with a multimeter. Yeah I'll be smoking it probably this weekend or something. It needs to happen. I know the coolant temp is likely the gauge, I'm just replacing the sensor because it's $15, and the sensor apparently affects the fuel system. It would make sense if the sensor poo poo the bed as well: my coolant temp starts reading funky for two days, and then suddenly I'm having fuel issues extreme enough for a no-start condition because of other preexisting fuel/emissions issues. Thanks, yeah it seems simple enough to clean out an AFM. I'll pull it out. Google was telling me "don't gently caress with it! nla part! $500 for a recond from bmw!" but apparently you can just buy old ones for nothing.
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Apr 16, 2015 17:51
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sanchez posted:Betting it's a noline F30 320i xdrive with beige interior, nothing fun about those. Worse. An X1. The first 30% of pedal travel does nothing, but if you give it too much throttle the car bucks around so you have to stay like 50-60% throttle. 
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Apr 16, 2015 17:53
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Tashan Dorrsett posted:Yeah I'll be smoking it probably this weekend or something. It needs to happen. I know the coolant temp is likely the gauge, I'm just replacing the sensor because it's $15, and the sensor apparently affects the fuel system. It would make sense if the sensor poo poo the bed as well: my coolant temp starts reading funky for two days, and then suddenly I'm having fuel issues extreme enough for a no-start condition because of other preexisting fuel/emissions issues.
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Apr 16, 2015 18:57
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BlackMK4 posted:Worse. An X1. The first 30% of pedal travel does nothing, but if you give it too much throttle the car bucks around so you have to stay like 50-60% throttle. I have one and this is definitely not true, just moving the pedal an inch gets some throttle going, and stomping it to the floor accelerates cleanly. You have to game the auto-engine off if you're stuck in traffic and too lazy to press that one button, so I have a lot of practice with pedal movement. you should probably get that one checked out if you're having those kinds of problems.
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Apr 16, 2015 19:54
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BlackMK4 posted:Worse. An X1. Try sport mode, slap the shift lever to the left from Drive. On some BMW's they re-map the throttle pedal in sport mode. edit: actually, do this instead (throttle body adaptation reset): http://e84.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=812743 Pierced Bronson fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Apr 16, 2015 |
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Apr 16, 2015 19:56
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Pierced Bronson posted:Try sport mode, slap the shift lever to the left from Drive. On some BMW's they re-map the throttle pedal in sport mode. I'll try this tonight since it looks like I have a week more of driving it. Beast of Bourbon posted:I have one and this is definitely not true, just moving the pedal an inch gets some throttle going, and stomping it to the floor accelerates cleanly. You have to game the auto-engine off if you're stuck in traffic and too lazy to press that one button, so I have a lot of practice with pedal movement. To be fair, it also makes weird noises when you reverse. Rental car life.
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Apr 16, 2015 20:49
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I had an X1 128 rear wheel drive and it was fun as poo poo to mash around in and had proper steering feel (e90 platform). Model years: 2010–present Curb weight: 1,500 kg (3,307 lb) Length: 4,457 mm (175.5 in) E46 length Height: 1,535 mm (60.4 in) 135 5 door hatch available in Europe would own. 320hp (4.6 0-60 mph) but of course not for us 
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Apr 16, 2015 20:57
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Oh, cool, 75 posts in the BMW thread, someone must've done something cool like buy one of those jahre M5s. loving solder/crimp and bloated BMW chat? Again? gently caress, AI. 
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Apr 16, 2015 21:39
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What's the difference between the tws Castrol 1060 stuff and the edge titanium 1060 stuff? http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-715-castrol-edge-titanium-10w-60-fst-for-bmw-m-series-fully-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx I'm using this now but a m mate saw it and said it didn't look right? Has the tws been discontinued cause dealers use shell stuff now or what? I'm so confused.
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Apr 16, 2015 21:41
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SuperDucky posted:loving solder/crimp and bloated BMW chat? Again? gently caress, AI. It's an evergreen topic for some. I saw the same debate/argument on the Audi mailing list in the 1990s. I saw the same argument on miata.net in the 2000s. You can see it coming, know what the arguments are going to be, and know what the resolution will be... just sit back and watch. At least it was a quick flare up here that didn't end up a huge stupid pissing contest.
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Apr 16, 2015 22:44
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meatpimp posted:It's an evergreen topic for some. I saw the same debate/argument on the Audi mailing list in the 1990s. I saw the same argument on miata.net in the 2000s. You can see it coming, know what the arguments are going to be, and know what the resolution will be... just sit back and watch. Hey, I was wrong and I learned something. Welcome to the internet. 
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Apr 16, 2015 23:27
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e30 updates: replaced fuel filter, cleaned AFM, cleaned throttle body butterfly, cleaned ICV, tightened throttle cable, checked coolant, confirmed throttle position sensor is bad. Sprayed around the engine bay but could not find easy to spot vac leaks. unsolved issues: Coolant temp still fluctuates quite a bit. Still never overheats, just fluctuates between 50-60% when it used to sit at 50% -- cluster? coolant temp sensor? bleed coolant? Idles at 700rpm cold and warm, should idle at 700-800rpm warm and a bit higher cold -- cold start valve? vacuum leak? gently caress it, good enough because it idles smoothly? MPG lower than expected. -- o2 sensor? Fuel pump is pretty loud with the seat off but you can't hear it with the seat -- normal? bearings going out? how hard is it to rebuild these? It's up and running now. Probably a bit better than before if anything, but it's brought my attention to a few issues I'd like to fix. Hoping that a new TPS will solve a lot of my issues, but the clunky accel/decel was largely solved by tightening up the throttle cable, which ended up being looser than my ex girlfriend. I think I'm on the right track, but is there anything else that's obvious that I should check out, clean, etc while I'm playing Operation with the e30? Tashan Dorrsett fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Apr 17, 2015 |
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Apr 17, 2015 03:26
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Sounds silly, have you done plugs, wires, cap and rotor recently? It might be worth doing just to eliminate any potential issues.
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Apr 17, 2015 03:28
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Sounds silly, have you done plugs, wires, cap and rotor recently? It might be worth doing just to eliminate any potential issues. thanks for reminding me, I was planning on at least taking out and cleaning the cap and rotor. plugs are good but on the old side, wires are good.
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Apr 17, 2015 03:30
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Xenoid posted:So you are running around with no mufflers, or did you just delete the second muffler? Did this affect your mileage at all? Ive still got the big center Y pipe, but yeah, just a straight pipe past that. I did it pretty soon after I bought it, so im not really sure what the mileage was like before I did it. Now, if the trip computer is to be trusted, my average is about 16.5 mixed city/highway spirited driving  And again, it sounds awesome. Quiet but noticeable when just driving normally, no drone on the highway, and makes rad noise when stomped on.
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Apr 17, 2015 03:49
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Tashan Dorrsett posted:Coolant temp still fluctuates quite a bit. Still never overheats, just fluctuates between 50-60% when it used to sit at 50% -- cluster? coolant temp sensor? bleed coolant? Probably the o2 sensor. Fuel pump may have been replaced with an aftermarket that is louder. Walbro 250lph pump is the go-to replacement and is the OEM pump for many cars so you can get one cheap and locally at Autozone. You don't rebuild em. 
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Apr 17, 2015 03:59
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BlackMK4 posted:Okay, so, if you've tested the gauge good and are ruling it out then you can test the coolant temp sensor with a multi. Other than that, thermostat. My E30 sat at the left of center line no matter what when up to temp, ymmv. I'll pull my cluster soon and find out. Just gotta re-lubricate my torque wrench since it's been sitting. The waterpump is very very unlikely aftermarket, the PO only went to the dealership and every part so far on the car has been OEM. So assuming loud + oem fuel pump, it may be on the way out? Also idled it for a while to test out the water pump for shits and giggles, and my idle now seems to be super low (550rpm) hmmmmm....
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Apr 17, 2015 04:35
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I've just bought an E91 330d. I'm going to get a Brodit mount for my phone and I'd like to be able to have it charge. I've had a bit of a search but not been able to find any guides on where to get power from near the left of the a screen in the dashboard (right hand drive), does anyone know of any guides? I'd just like to avoid using the 12v lighter socket because it'd be messy.
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Apr 17, 2015 19:00
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Ultimate Mango posted:It's just out of warranty isn't it? My guess word be that a different relay is used from the remote fob receiver and the actual trunk lid button, and something went foo bar with the link between the fob receiver and the trunk mechanism. Given the location all this stuff is buried inside the vehicle maybe $700 to tear apart and fix. After faffing around, I took it into the dealer. They reset the car's computers and everything works now. On another note, it also failed inspection. The dealer is saying I need to drive it more to get the sensors to go from "not ready" to "ready". Baloney or not? I had the battery changed when they did the N63 campaign a few months ago.
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Apr 17, 2015 19:20
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Yes, that's right. When the ECU is soft reset it needs a few drive cycles to set the emissions systems as READY.
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Apr 17, 2015 19:38
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I installed a clutch stop in my E46 yesterday and because I had to short the clutch sensor the car now thinks the clutch is depressed 100% of the time, which is having a strange side effect when lifting the throttle. Now the transition from throttle to engine braking is instant and abrupt, where it was a little smoother before. Guessing the IAC valve was opening a bit when lifting off the gas with the clutch engaged. I can adjust to the behavior but now I'm wondering if it's doing other things that may effect economy, such as keeping it from cutting the fuel while engine braking enough? Anyone know what else the ECU does when it sees the clutch pedal depressed?
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Apr 17, 2015 19:52
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I don't know if cars do it but on motorcycles the bike will run a map with the timing pulled when the clutch switch is jumped. Either way, I'd find a better solution than just jumping the switch.
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Apr 17, 2015 19:56
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Anjow posted:I've just bought an E91 330d. I'm going to get a Brodit mount Doesn't the E91 have a USB port in the arm rest? I would be inclined to dismantle the center console and find a way to run the cord underneath and have it plug into that, even if it meant drilling a small hole to pass the cord through
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Apr 17, 2015 20:01
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Bape Culture posted:What's the difference between the tws Castrol 1060 stuff and the edge titanium 1060 stuff? Anyone know anything about this?
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Apr 17, 2015 20:03
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BlackMK4 posted:I don't know if cars do it but on motorcycles the bike will run a map with the timing pulled when the clutch switch is jumped. Either way, I'd find a better solution than just jumping the switch. That's what I'm thinking. I'm probably just going to pull the clutch stop out; it doesn't feel that different and I decided last minute to add it to my order so I can live without it.
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Apr 17, 2015 20:08
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I think most people have found that adding a clutch stop on an E46 doesn't really work.
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Apr 17, 2015 20:38
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I'd believe it. I installed a Mason Engineering clutch pedal when I got the car which actually changed the engagement point so I wanted to see what that + a pedal stop would feel like. The stop feels solid, and I can make it so that engagement is immediately off of the stop, but if it's doing anything other than being a rest for the pedal then gently caress it
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Apr 17, 2015 20:57
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Pierced Bronson posted:I'd believe it. I installed a Mason Engineering clutch pedal when I got the car which actually changed the engagement point so I wanted to see what that + a pedal stop would feel like. The stop feels solid, and I can make it so that engagement is immediately off of the stop, but if it's doing anything other than being a rest for the pedal then gently caress it Are you post facelift? I think I remember reading somewhere about how like 01+ cars have a magnetic switch or something that doesn't like to play nice with non stock clutch stops.
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Apr 17, 2015 21:03
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Viper_3000 posted:Are you post facelift? I think I remember reading somewhere about how like 01+ cars have a magnetic switch or something that doesn't like to play nice with non stock clutch stops. Mine's an '05. I had to short the magnetic switch because with the stop installed the pedal doesn't travel enough to let you start the car.
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Apr 17, 2015 21:20
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