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Tindjin posted:Okay so I'm going to pick up a SCX10. Should I get a RTR or the Kit? Kits don't scare me, I build planes and used to race RC 1/10 scale. Just wondering if the stuff included in the RTR is worth it for starting out? I sold 90% of my surface stuff but still have a radio and charges, would just need to buy the rest of the electronics if I went kit. If you already have electronics that you're going to use, or have something in mind that you want to use, and will get enjoyment out of building your rig, then I'd almost certainly recommend the kit. They're really not all that difficult, and you're going to have it apart in some form or another anyways. You don't save a ton of money, but you do get the metal steering and lower links, plus you get an unpainted body that you can personalize. Question for owners of go-fast cars: I just finished building a Tamiya XV-01 Pro, as well as painting the body. The look of those tall body posts sticking up always looked silly to me, and I want to keep it looking somewhat realistic. Has anybody used those magnetic body posts? It seems like they might be a nice way of preserving the look, but I'm also comparing that with just snipping the posts and being done with it that way. Would the magnets even be able to keep the body on with the force of air at typical speeds?
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Apr 15, 2015 02:58
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bisticles posted:You don't save a ton of money, but you do get the metal steering and lower links, plus you get an unpainted body that you can personalize. I forgot that I had read that the kit does have some minor 'upgrades' compared to the RTR and having an unpainted body would be nice. Kit it is. Thanks guys. Now to figure out an esc/motor combo. I'll be running lipos for the batteries. I'd like to be able to run it around water, does that mean I need to stay with a brushed motor? Are any of the brushless-sensor motors able get the occasional splash? I figure I can use the bag trick on the RX and I have seen it mentioned about using liquid tape or plasti-dip on the electronic parts of the ESC but what about the motors?
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Apr 15, 2015 16:48
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I'd just go brushed for the SCX10. Brushless is great on the fast stuff, but I don't know that it's hugely necessary on a scaler. I'm very happy with a 35 turn brushless Axial silver can on mine.
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Apr 15, 2015 17:27
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I ordered oil filled shocks for my Micro Desert Truck, and my bearings arrived today. ... am I going to be able to resist going brushless? Only time will tell... jonathan posted:FYI Trophy trucks (and short course trucks) are solid rear axle, 2 wheel drive, independent fronts with a very narrow bulkhead and very long a-arms They're around 24" travel in the front and 32" travel rear. Short course stuff is lighter and made for springs, the trophy trucks are built for Baja 1000, Mint 400 etc. Generally they make around 800 horsepower and weigh in around 6000lbs. Some trophy trucks are 4WD too. In an effort to get longer a-arms, I've seen them have the pivots on "the other side" of the chassis, so the a-arms cross in the middle. They're stunning machines.
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Apr 15, 2015 18:13
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e: left hand threads. i'm a big stupid.
Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Apr 16, 2015 |
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Apr 16, 2015 01:06
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Nerobro posted:I ordered oil filled shocks for my Micro Desert Truck, and my bearings arrived today. I'm under the impression those are more desert runner and 4wd class trucks, not the top tier trophy truck class in torc series etc. Although rules have changed over the years. The crossed up a arms is kind of an expansion on the ford bronco twin traction beam design. I think.
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Apr 16, 2015 02:21
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Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee yeahhhh. My order from Great Hobbies has arrived, with my Axial SCX 10 and all my goodies (okay, most, the 2nd battery and a couple of small bits didn't arrive due to stock, but its all coming eventually). Waiting for the wife to get home to unbox the truck, as she'll be pissed if I don't wait :P Likely won't get a chance to play with it tonight, but tomorrow I'mma rip around a bit.
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Apr 16, 2015 20:45
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Well, I got the shocks for my Losi Micro Desert Truck today. And i'm massively disappointed. The shocks are shorter. They have less stroke, are shorter, are rough, are sticky, and can't be built properly. So, they ship empty. So I got some oil, filled them with 15w. But I discovered that the bladders are to small. There's no step, or pocket for the top sealing o-ring to sit in. So if you build them per normal procedures, the shocks are virtually locked up. Guessing at fluid levels would eventually get a shock that had full travel. Now once the shocks have full travel, the springs that are proper for the chassis, can't extend them fully. Lowering the oil level, helps. But you end up with inconsistent damping due to bubbles. I tried oiling, and then greasing the shaft seals. That helped smooth the shaft travel, but the shocks still wouldn't extend all the way. I'm going to give Losi a call monday. I don't expect to get a good answer. The next question is "how do you get good damping on a micro scale." With the forces involved, stiction is a huge problem. There's something that can give you fluid like damping, without fluids. Magnets... That's how you get stiction free damping. Suffice it to say, I'm ordering some aluminum tube, and some steel rod. This thing needs shocks. It needs them bad. But the market is poo. I'm going to be spending a few hours at the hackerspace.....
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Apr 18, 2015 07:01
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Got my XV-01 most of the way there. Body is held on with some 1cm-sized neodymium magnets, power is a Hobbywing WP-SC8 ESC and some $25 4300KV motor. I painted the body myself, probably a little too heavy on the splatter, but once you get started, it's hard to stop. There aren't many people running go-fast cars around here, but I may try to head over to a track day over in the next county some time and see when people get together for casual racing. Either way, this thing is loads of fun in a big flat parking lot.  
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Apr 18, 2015 14:08
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Looks great. I love my XV-01. It's perfect for the not so perfect pavement on my driveway and in the alley behind my house.
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Apr 18, 2015 23:47
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So, after a bad day yesterday involving my only soldering iron being too damned weak to solder Traxxas connectors, I got my SCX10 Honcho up and rolling today. Hooooooly gently caress this thing is fun. I'm just tooling around in my front yard, avoiding any snow/water since I haven't done any waterproofing yet. I'm tearing up some gravel, I've climbed/jumped over some firewood, and just had a hoot. Needed to put a ziptie in to keep the battery from sliding around, but now its good and solid in there. Just need to figure out what I'm going to do with the antenna, and then I'll leave it as-is for a month or so. Once I get energetic, I'll pull it apart to waterproof it - just need a nice, warm, sunny day so my garage isn't so chilly and dark.
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Apr 19, 2015 00:50
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bisticles posted:Got my XV-01 most of the way there. Body is held on with some 1cm-sized neodymium magnets, power is a Hobbywing WP-SC8 ESC and some $25 4300KV motor. I painted the body myself, probably a little too heavy on the splatter, but once you get started, it's hard to stop. There aren't many people running go-fast cars around here, but I may try to head over to a track day over in the next county some time and see when people get together for casual racing. Either way, this thing is loads of fun in a big flat parking lot. That splatter looks seriously awesome. Nicely done!
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Apr 19, 2015 02:13
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powderific posted:Looks great. I love my XV-01. It's perfect for the not so perfect pavement on my driveway and in the alley behind my house. Thanks! Finally got a chance to really get it up to speed and toss it around a dirt parking lot today. Well, I didn't see a large rock, and it must've whacked one of the front A-arms at just the right angle, because it cracked part of the suspension system clear off. Now I'm learning one of the big downsides of running with a Tamiya platform; most parts have to be ordered from overseas. Taking the opportunity to order a couple of beefed-up aluminum parts, so hopefully I'll be in better shape next time. T1g4h posted:That splatter looks seriously awesome. Nicely done! Appreciate it. It was a lot of fun to do. Basically, I started off masking off the front and back with newspaper and masking tape, just so I'd have pure black across the middle at a slight angle. Once that dried, I took off the tape, sprayed black paint on my fingertips (with latex gloves on) and flicked it at the area where the black transitioned to unpainted, so it'd be a splatter transition rather than a hard line. I also took a few flicks to the front and back to give it some extra detail. Then with the blue, I covered the front and dusted the back transition area quickly, waited until that dried, then attacked the entire inside with white. Because I didn't want the inside to be bright white, I hit everything once more with a light coating of black just to dull it down a bit. The spoiler is a 3-piece dealie, and I did that separately, and glued it into place.
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Apr 20, 2015 02:29
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Tqrcracing stocks some parts for the XV and they ship pretty fast: http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/parts.asp?parts_p_id=7215
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Apr 20, 2015 02:33
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It's really amateur and all, but I just picked up my first Plane, I've had zero experience on planes a tiny bit of time on cars (store bought crap). Picked up a Super Sport S from my local hobby shop and it's already brought so much joy to me. I was sold on how it has three levels of flight characteristics and a panic button, which hasn't kept me from hitting my house and car. The plane still looks out of the box good. I need to go out and get about three more batteries because it's a small flight window per battery but for about $5 a pop. Got tomorrow off and will do some more practice. It's really forgiving and fun for a complete idiot like me and the price is well enough that I'm going to be able to let my 9 year old stepson fly it and not get to upset. I can already feel how this is like heroin and I already want more and bigger.
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Apr 20, 2015 05:10
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Don Baylor posted:It's really amateur and all, but I just picked up my first Plane, I've had zero experience on planes a tiny bit of time on cars (store bought crap). Picked up a Super Sport S from my local hobby shop and it's already brought so much joy to me. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3386779
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Apr 20, 2015 05:45
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powderific posted:Tqrcracing stocks some parts for the XV and they ship pretty fast: http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/parts.asp?parts_p_id=7215 Bookmarked, thanks
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Apr 20, 2015 15:36
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Anyone have a servo recommendation for my SXC10? I just stripped out the Traxxas TRA2075 I had in there and I'm wondering if I should look at something beefier. It lasted quite a while so maybe the same thing would be fine.
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Apr 21, 2015 02:34
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The mosfets arrived, so I took a swing at fixing the original ESC/receiver from my Micro Trail Trekker. That's.. a big hole for a little FET.  The replacement APM4502 MOSFET is in place...  All buttoned up, and tested. I paid $9 for 5 replacement FETs, and now I have a spare $50 reciever. More pictures and detail: http://realtinker.blogspot.com/2015/04/a-blown-mosfet-replacement-and-saving.html
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Apr 22, 2015 07:39
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So my midlife crisis decided to play itself out this weekend and I bought my first R/C since I was a teenager. I didn't want to break the bank on a starter car and settled on an ECX Circuit 4WD. I have to say it's a ton of fun to drive and chase my kid around the backyard with it. So having been out of the scene for a while I have a question about batteries. When I bought the thing I bought a second battery but both are Ni-MH. From what I've been reading, it would be worthwhile to get some Lipos. Here's where I'm confused. I have no idea what to get. I've been looking around HobbyKing's website and there are so many options I'm overwhelmed. Based on what I currently have, what would the group recommend as far as Lipos? If it makes any difference, here's what I currently have. 7.2v 6 Cell one 4500 and one 2400 mAh I also assume I would need a new charger aside from the one that came in the box. Any suggestions on one? Do the connectors make any difference if I bought adapters? My current connectors are EC3.
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Apr 22, 2015 13:40
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Did my first RC race in probably close to 15 years last night. Lessons learned: *Track surface is the same, but the VTA tires are a far cry from the old sticky Prolines. My setup is now a hot mess of oversteer and I need to soften it way the hell up. *Even a 25.5 brushless still gets up and goes plenty quick for my liking. *For reasons unknown a hard enough hit will make my car shut off, but it doesn't seem to be turning the switch off. I think I'll relocate the power switch just in case.
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Apr 24, 2015 19:35
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Ordered my SCX10. Trying to figure out a esc/motor combo. I'd like to go brushless with lipos. What about this setup? Traxxas 3350R Velineon VXL-3s Brushless Power System I like that it is supposed to be at least water resistant. What about a combo from Castle like the sidewinder 3 or is there another good option for a brushless? Thanks.
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Apr 24, 2015 22:41
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Finished getting the Yeti XL kit together and good lord it's huge. Looking forward to getting the electronics in there and getting it running. At least for now it's fun to wiggle around on the suspension. Makes the little SCT look even smaller than usual  Kit is pretty good, a couple misprints relating to which number is which on some parts trees, and a couple misprints on screw lengths. Nothing a little deductive reasoning can't solve.
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Apr 25, 2015 03:52
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Tindjin posted:Ordered my SCX10. Trying to figure out a esc/motor combo. I'd like to go brushless with lipos. What about this setup? Traxxas 3350R Velineon VXL-3s Brushless Power System I like that it is supposed to be at least water resistant. What about a combo from Castle like the sidewinder 3 or is there another good option for a brushless? Thanks. Are you going to want to do any crawling with it? If so you're going to need to go sensored and they're not generally waterproof and also are tend to be even more expensive. I really think for a truck like the SCX10 brushed motors are perfect.
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Apr 25, 2015 16:27
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IOwnCalculus posted:Did my first RC race in probably close to 15 years last night. Lessons learned: My VTA setup tips: - Run the hardest front stabilizer (anti-roll) bar you can get your hands on. This will help majorly with oversteering issues - Depending on the track surface, if it is asphalt, run around 350wt oil (I think Trinity oil would be around 25-30wt) - Run a bit of rear toe-in. I think I am running around 3 degrees. My droop is 5mm at front, 4mm at the rear Other than that, I usually run 1.5 degree neg camber front and rear, and 1 degree front toe out. My rear springs are softer than the front.
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Apr 26, 2015 09:47
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You Am I posted:The VTA tyres are supposed to be crap compared to slicks, add the fact you can't put any traction goop on it or tyre warmers makes it fun on a cold track. You can hear my car sliding in some corners. This is the problem with the British 'vintage' racing - like normal touring car racing, tire warmers and saucing is allowed. Which makes me never ever want to race in the class. If we can get the on-road HPI Challenge going again in the UK we won't be using either.
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Apr 26, 2015 10:08
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Hypnolobster posted:Finished getting the Yeti XL kit together and good lord it's huge. Looking forward to getting the electronics in there and getting it running. At least for now it's fun to wiggle around on the suspension. Your going to love it! Couple things I have done with mine. I put a 25t Axial servo horn in. I stripped out the stock one in the kit the second time I ran it. I upgraded to these batteries. http://www.heliosrc.com/8000_40c_74v_Yeti_XL_L/p2285084_13185398.aspx They are cheap, made for the Yeti XL and fit in the Yeti XL battery boxes perfect. They also have insanely long run times. They also sell a 3s version but 2s was fine with me. I also put in a steel servo arm rod. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steel-Servo-Arm-Rod-For-Axial-Yeti-XL-90032-Dhawk-Racing-/191506859494?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c96b2c5e6 I wasn't happy with the stock spring/shock setup. The stock front uses 30wt with 4 hole pistons and the rear uses 10wt with 6 hole pistons. I think with that setup it sits way too low once you get all the electronics in. I went 2 hole pistons all the way around with some Team Associated 50wt oil http://www.ebay.com/itm/Team-Associated-5435-50wt-Silicone-Shock-Oil-2oz-/201244970595?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2edb228e63 and moved the lower rear shock mounts to the first hole on the rear lower link (in your pic it looks like you already did this). This also stops the ICON shock reservoir from hitting the cage. With this setup it sits perfect and is super stable at speed. Also make sure you use some red Loctite on the pinion once you get the mesh set. Mine backed off the first pack I put through it using blue Loctite. Make sure the tire nuts are nice and tight also. I check mine after every run. jdfording fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Apr 26, 2015 |
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Apr 26, 2015 22:39
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You Am I posted:The VTA tyres are supposed to be crap compared to slicks, add the fact you can't put any traction goop on it or tyre warmers makes it fun on a cold track. You can hear my car sliding in some corners. Yeah, I get it, I wasn't complaining  The local track doesn't ban warmers or goop even in VTA, but I don't know how much they really help. My dad managed to check out one of the faster cars in class and the tires didn't feel any stickier at all. I can see how warmers would help consistency, since the tires came off the track with some heat in them and feeling a bit easier to drive. However in about a month, the pavement will be hotter than the warmers anyway. I'm just going to work on making the car push as much as possible and then working back from there. I probably need to play with my transmitter settings too and calm the steering down a bit around center. The servo I'm running now (Ace DS1313) is way overkill and nicer than any I've raced in the past.
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Apr 26, 2015 22:48
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jdfording posted:Your going to love it! I put the Axial 24t servo horn in for my planned Hitec (I think I got the idea from you, actually), and those are actually the batteries I had planned. I want something with stupid long run times so I can go wander through MTB trails and have fun for an 45m+ and not have to carry the thing back out. At some point probably before I even get all the electronics in it, I'm going to throw in the DHawk bellcrank to take the ridiculous slop out of the whole steering. Didn't know a steel rod was worth it though, that's good to know. I've got a bunch of different shock setups that I've found people talking about online all written down so I have some ideas for a baseline setup, and 50wt seems pretty common. I'm going to throw on aluminum shock caps without the fake piggyback for clearance and because the shock caps seem like a weak point from what I've read. I'm also bending up aluminum panels instead of using the plastic because I don't want to paint anything and it's giving me something to do at work after hours. Also it's cheaper than buying the electronics
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Apr 27, 2015 01:11
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Speaking of Loctite. Since I want to pull apart my Honcho soon and "waterproof" it (aka marine grease bearings, dip the electrics, etc.) what all should I loctite on it? Anything in particular that's 100% do it, or anything I should avoid?
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Apr 27, 2015 01:31
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, I get it, I wasn't complaining Warmers help at the start of the race. Especially at the track I race at which only does night time racing. Getting a VTA to take the first corner on the first lap can sometimes be 50% luck and 50% hoping whoever you hit or hits you points you in the right direction
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Apr 27, 2015 04:10
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powderific posted:Are you going to want to do any crawling with it? If so you're going to need to go sensored and they're not generally waterproof and also are tend to be even more expensive. I really think for a truck like the SCX10 brushed motors are perfect. Some crawling yea. humm maybe starting out brushed wouldn't be a bad idea. I'm just so used to brushless motors on planes that I thought I would go that route.
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Apr 27, 2015 17:38
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Siochain posted:Speaking of Loctite. I only use blue Loctite on metal to metal. Never into plastic. I use red Loctite only on the pinion gear that comes off the motor. The SCX10 is a crawler so I wouldn't get too crazy. Not like your going really fast or jumping it.
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Apr 27, 2015 20:26
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jdfording posted:I only use blue Loctite on metal to metal. Never into plastic. I use red Loctite only on the pinion gear that comes off the motor. The SCX10 is a crawler so I wouldn't get too crazy. Not like your going really fast or jumping it. Awesome, thanks. I figured as much, but wanted to check, since if I'm going to have it apart anyways. I might skip using it much then, and if poo poo does come out, I'll fix it then. Until I build something bigger/faster, then I'll worry about it.
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Apr 27, 2015 20:36
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Hypnolobster posted:I put the Axial 24t servo horn in for my planned Hitec (I think I got the idea from you, actually), and those are actually the batteries I had planned. I want something with stupid long run times so I can go wander through MTB trails and have fun for an 45m+ and not have to carry the thing back out. At some point probably before I even get all the electronics in it, I'm going to throw in the DHawk bellcrank to take the ridiculous slop out of the whole steering. Didn't know a steel rod was worth it though, that's good to know. I didn't want to paint mine either so I bought some desert tan Plasti Dip and painted the insides of the clear plastic panels. Looks amazing and I can peel it off and change the color if I get board of it. I used probably 10 light coats and it hasn't peeled up.
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Apr 27, 2015 20:49
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Well, that's really annoying. My Micro DT motor is complete toast. it's had a total of five runs on it. Horizon Hobby and I are really not having a good relationship lately.
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Apr 29, 2015 14:57
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Holy poo poo I am bad at driving at the RC track. Those jumps have a lot more vertical boost to them than I was expecting. Time for a new steering thingy for the slash. 5 mins runtime.
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Apr 29, 2015 23:00
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Where is the RC track there?
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Apr 30, 2015 02:51
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slidebite posted:Where is the RC track there? https://goo.gl/maps/JZqio This view is old, there is an undercover drivers stage etc. The facility is fenced off and gated, and anyone who joins the GPMRA club gets a combo to the lock. They run races 2x a week but you can go anytime before 9pm and use it by yourself if you want.
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Apr 30, 2015 18:45
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You Am I posted:Warmers help at the start of the race. Especially at the track I race at which only does night time racing. Getting a VTA to take the first corner on the first lap can sometimes be 50% luck and 50% hoping whoever you hit or hits you points you in the right direction Spent some time tweaking the suspension last night, going to race again tonight. Know what should help a lot? Not having a shitload of toe-out on the front  I must have been hurting for turn-in when I last raced 10 years ago because that is definitely not the problem now.
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Apr 30, 2015 19:43
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