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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Raluek posted:

Sure, but where in a sequential gearbox do they use a screw drive?

I would chalk that up to whatever language it's being translated from having a word that can be used for either 'gear' or 'screw' and the latter being the more common usage.

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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

IOwnCalculus posted:

I would chalk that up to whatever language it's being translated from having a word that can be used for either 'gear' or 'screw' and the latter being the more common usage.

Oh, I guess I misunderstood the circumstance. I thought the poster was translating something in English into some other language, and wanted clarification on the English term. :shobon:

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.

Dane posted:

A colleague is translating a text which has the following sentence:

During competition, a car produces around 80 decibels. The distinct ­whining sound comes primarily from the gearbox (sequential gearing, straight screw drive) and motor.

I'm trying to help her with the 'straight screw drive', but I'm coming up short. Any ideas?
What's the original language and text for "straight screw drive"?

Spudalicious
Dec 24, 2003

I <3 Alton Brown.
I've got a 2000 Ford Ranger 4x4 3.0L and I'm replacing the front suspension/steering/hub assemblies.

I've currently got pulse vacuum hubs on there, and after watching some youtubes of removing them it seems likely that I will break them horribly. Does anyone have any tips on these hubs? If I wanted to switch to manual locking hubs what do I have to do to the vacuum lines?

Dane
Jun 18, 2003

mmm... creamy.

InitialDave posted:

What's the original language and text for "straight screw drive"?

She is translating an English text (from a tourist magazine, I believe) into Danish. I'm afraid I don't know if it's a text that's been translated into English from a third language, but it seems likely with these weird terms.

I don't have access to the full text (and she's not working on it right now since it's getting on 11pm here), but there was another bit in the text that dealt with adjustable brake force recovery, so I'm guessing that the theory about an older diff with a worm drive isn't the answer. I thought about the worm drive too and suggested it, but with the major caveat that I just don't know very much about cars.

Dane
Jun 18, 2003

mmm... creamy.
I'm wondering if it could have something to do with something like this http://m.schaeffler.com/content.mobile.products/en/products/automotive/chassis/bsd/bsd_info.html or this http://www.airoil.com/products/view/243/tolomatic-gsagsm-series-guided-screw-drive-actuators.html

I'll let you know if I find out any more from here. It's driving me nuts.

Crunkjuice
Apr 4, 2007

That could've gotten in my eye!
*launches teargas at unarmed protestors*

I THINK OAKLAND PD'S USE OF EXCESSIVE FORCE WAS JUSTIFIED!
2008 Hyundai Sonata with 160k miles on it.

I've had a decent squeak coming from my passenger front wheel for a while now, and just recently i've been able to replicate it with just pressing on the car while stopped. As far as I know it is the shock absorber/strut assembly. I'm not a big car guy, but my best friend is a mechanic so we're going to do all the work.

If only one is squeaking, is it the only one that needs to be replaced or do I need to do both the front assemblies?
Are there any real differences between manufacturers at different pricepoints, or will the cheapest option be fine?

Crunkjuice fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Apr 20, 2015

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Dane posted:

I'm wondering if it could have something to do with something like this http://m.schaeffler.com/content.mobile.products/en/products/automotive/chassis/bsd/bsd_info.html or this http://www.airoil.com/products/view/243/tolomatic-gsagsm-series-guided-screw-drive-actuators.html

I'll let you know if I find out any more from here. It's driving me nuts.

It *could*, but electronic steering doesn't seem like it would be a major component in a car's noise.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

I'm pretty sure it's just a mistranslation that mistakes the word for a screw-drive gear, with the word for the shape of normal transmission gears - "helical."

Helical gears are used, in part, because they're much less noisy than straight-cut gears; but they're still not silent.

If you want to hear what straight-cut gears sound like, drive your car in reverse. The reverse gear is usually straight-cut, and it's much noisier and whinier. Some race cars deliberately use straight-cut forward gears (I think it's a stronger setup? Can deal with more torque?) and they're noisy as gently caress.

Dane
Jun 18, 2003

mmm... creamy.

Leperflesh posted:

I'm pretty sure it's just a mistranslation that mistakes the word for a screw-drive gear, with the word for the shape of normal transmission gears - "helical."

Helical gears are used, in part, because they're much less noisy than straight-cut gears; but they're still not silent.

If you want to hear what straight-cut gears sound like, drive your car in reverse. The reverse gear is usually straight-cut, and it's much noisier and whinier. Some race cars deliberately use straight-cut forward gears (I think it's a stronger setup? Can deal with more torque?) and they're noisy as gently caress.

I'm pretty sure you've got it. I did a little more research after reading your post and found this - http://automotivethinker.com/transmission/straight-cut-gears-vs-helical/ - and coupled with what else I've found, that's the answer that makes the most sense.

Thanks, everyone. Maybe I can sleep now!

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
Is there a way to dye you own brake fluid? Since they stopped selling ATE Super Blue in the actual blue color...

Fender Anarchist
May 20, 2009

Fender Anarchist

Leperflesh posted:

Some race cars deliberately use straight-cut forward gears (I think it's a stronger setup? Can deal with more torque?) and they're noisy as gently caress.

Lesson time!

Helical and straight cut gears can deal with the same amount of torque... hypothetically. Each tooth is just as beefy no matter the cut.

Take a look at this picture, though:



Imagine grabbing the left gear and turning it clockwise (visible teeth to the left) while the other gear is held stationary. You can see the helical teeth would act like a screw, driving the gear upward. This happens in real gearboxes due to the heavy load on the output gear from the car's weight. Given a high enough power input, the upward force (along the gear's shaft) can actually cause the case to flex and let the gear and shaft move, such that less of the gear's total surface area is transmitting the same amount of force, which puts more strain on the teeth. Go too far, and you get this:



Note that the small gear on the input shaft is sheared on the right (it was pushed left), and vice versa for the large gear.

There's 3 ways to fix this:

1. Use a stiffer case. This means either good engineering and slightly more metal (expensive to design) or lots more metal (expensive to produce due to material cost, and heavy, bad for both road and race cars.)

2. Use herringbone gears like this, which produce opposing thrust forces that cancel out:



Silent like helical gears, but much more expensive to produce; you typically only see these on high-end sports cars and the like, where both high power levels and noise concerns are present.

3. Straight-cut gears, the go-to solution for race cars. Cheap to make, simple, and keeps the case light, at the expense added benefit of awesome noise.

Godholio
Aug 28, 2002

Does a bear split in the woods near Zheleznogorsk?

Dane posted:

I'm pretty sure you've got it. I did a little more research after reading your post and found this - http://automotivethinker.com/transmission/straight-cut-gears-vs-helical/ - and coupled with what else I've found, that's the answer that makes the most sense.

Thanks, everyone. Maybe I can sleep now!

Was it being translated from Russian by chance?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Crunkjuice posted:

2008 Hyundai Sonata with 160k miles on it.

I've had a decent squeak coming from my passenger front wheel for a while now, and just recently i've been able to replicate it with just pressing on the car while stopped. As far as I know it is the shock absorber/strut assembly. I'm not a big car guy, but my best friend is a mechanic so we're going to do all the work.

If only one is squeaking, is it the only one that needs to be replaced or do I need to do both the front assemblies?
Are there any real differences between manufacturers at different pricepoints, or will the cheapest option be fine?

You should do both at the same time. For your car there's little difference between the variously priced shocks; it isn't exactly going to set the nurburgring on fire so cheapest is best, as long as you get shocks that are 100% correct and don't need modification in some way to fit (yes, places do sell shocks like this).

BlackMK4 posted:

Is there a way to dye you own brake fluid? Since they stopped selling ATE Super Blue in the actual blue color...

A pinch of food colouring mixed in before you put the fluid in the vehicle would work.


Worth mentioning: bikes still use straight-cut gears, they're lighter and cheaper and better when, as you said, nobody gives a gently caress about the sound.

Ragnarok the Red
Jun 21, 2002
This really feels like one of those things I ought to know but for whatever reason don't.

I recently paid off my Mini and got the Certificate of Title and Lienholder Release from BMW. The letter that came with it says I should take it to the DMV to have the lien removed, which is $20 and a wait in line.

My father said it's unnecessary, this title is all I need and the only reason to pay the $20 to have it solely in my name is if I lose the title sheet it's harder to replace it through the lienholder than the state, and when the time comes to sell it there is no difference since it's already paid off and the lien is released.

Is my dad wrong on this and I should still head to the DMV and pony up the :20bux:, or more or less right and I should just save my time and money.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Personally I'd pony up the :20bux: and deal with it. It's a few hours out of your day.

It's a pain in the rear end, but it guarantees the lien release is done. And as your dad said, if you lose the title, you're kinda hosed until you can get someone from BMW NA to sign off on it, which, if you don't do it now, will make it a lot harder to sell the car in the future. Your current title still shows a lienholder, and getting it removed can potentially be a massive pain in the rear end.

Dane
Jun 18, 2003

mmm... creamy.
Update:

So yeah, the article in question was written in English about EV racing by a journalist who has English as a second language and no knowledge of cars, electric or otherwise. I'm guessing he/she just regurgitated what they were told and got things confused. Thanks so much for all your help.

Zipperelli.
Apr 3, 2011



Nap Ghost
So I paid my motorcycle off in December, and still haven't received my title. I called the dealership multiple times, and they claimed ignorance saying "well, we sent it, we can't do anything else for you". I also went so far as going TO the dealership to talk to the manager, and got the same song and dance from him.

So what are my options now? The dealership is obviously no help, nor do they seem to want to be. Is it possible to go to the DMV and get a "new" title, saying that the dealership "lost" mine?

Silver Nitrate
Oct 17, 2005

WHAT
help! My car is being difficult.

I have a 98 Lincoln town car with misfires in cylinder 1&4. Have replaced spark plugs, ignition coils, and intake manifold. Also ran some injector cleaner through it (also replaced them later on) and filled it up with premium. Misfires continue to occur at slight acceleration but not at idle or when flooring it. Previously thought to be a vacuum leak caused by the cracked intake manifold because the cracks were right by 1&4. Now maybe thinking fuel pump?

Silver Nitrate fucked around with this message at 14:44 on Apr 21, 2015

Sentient Data
Aug 31, 2011

My molecule scrambler ray will disintegrate your armor with one blow!
If it's a real simple job to get at your injectors, try swapping 1 for 2 and 3 for 4. If the misfire follows the injectors then you know they're the problem, if the misfire stays where it is then you know you have other issues

e: And if you do the swap, don't forget to replace the o-rings - lube them up with fuel injector cleaner to make sure they don't stick/tear when installing

Sentient Data fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Apr 21, 2015

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

EZipperelli posted:

So I paid my motorcycle off in December, and still haven't received my title. I called the dealership multiple times, and they claimed ignorance saying "well, we sent it, we can't do anything else for you". I also went so far as going TO the dealership to talk to the manager, and got the same song and dance from him.

So what are my options now? The dealership is obviously no help, nor do they seem to want to be. Is it possible to go to the DMV and get a "new" title, saying that the dealership "lost" mine?

Were you paying the dealer or were you paying some 3rd party loan company? Chances are your dealer hasn't had the title since you got the bike.

Zipperelli.
Apr 3, 2011



Nap Ghost
I was paying in-house financing through the dealer's loan company.

Silver Nitrate
Oct 17, 2005

WHAT

Sentient Data posted:

If it's a real simple job to get at your injectors, try swapping 1 for 2 and 3 for 4. If the misfire follows the injectors then you know they're the problem, if the misfire stays where it is then you know you have other issues

e: And if you do the swap, don't forget to replace the o-rings - lube them up with fuel injector cleaner to make sure they don't stick/tear when installing

Oh I already replaced the injectors. Sorry, forgot to mention that .

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004
What the heck is this vise grip doing to this 1973 f-350? I'm looking at it on Friday so I'd like to have an idea if that's a problem or not. Choke-related?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Astonishing Wang posted:

What the heck is this vise grip doing to this 1973 f-350? I'm looking at it on Friday so I'd like to have an idea if that's a problem or not. Choke-related?



There's nothing there stock. Including that round thing underneath it.

Just the parking brake release handle.

There's not even a hood release on those.

And the chose should be automatic unless someone converted it over.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

EZipperelli posted:

So I paid my motorcycle off in December, and still haven't received my title. I called the dealership multiple times, and they claimed ignorance saying "well, we sent it, we can't do anything else for you". I also went so far as going TO the dealership to talk to the manager, and got the same song and dance from him.

So what are my options now? The dealership is obviously no help, nor do they seem to want to be. Is it possible to go to the DMV and get a "new" title, saying that the dealership "lost" mine?

Google "<your state name> lost title replacement". I know here, you have to go to a regional DMV office, but they print a replacement on the spot for you. Here, you need an ID and proof of insurance.

The title may also be branded as a replacement title, but the original will be invalidated. I've had to do this a couple of times when I've lost titles.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Apr 22, 2015

coronaball
Feb 6, 2005

You're finished, pork-o-nazi!
2007 Nissan Murano 70000something miles on it. Excuse the short sentences I am phone posting.

November: I drive the car to a grocery store. My wife is sitting in the car listening to the radio without engine on. All electrical dies. I get a jump. We drive home. Next day, car is dead again. Jump again, take to Sears, Sears says all is well.

February. Cannot start car, engine cranks but won't turn over. I try and jump, still won't turn over. I call roadside assistance, he jumps it off his truck and it starts. Take to Sears, Sears says battery and all electrical is fine.

Today: wife goes to leave work, car won't start or even try to turn over. She gets a jump, car starts. She drives home, leaves running. I drive about 15 minutes away, park car for 1 hour. I go to start, and I have lights and radio but won't turn over at all. I call roadside assistance, they send guy with a jump box. He tries to jump it, nothing happens, still got headlights and radio but it won't turn it all. He hears a clicking sound from engine. I don't hear anything from inside the car.

Starter problem?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

coronaball posted:

Starter problem?

I'd say it could be a starter problem, it could be a wiring/connections problem, or it could (still) be a battery problem. Some battery testers aren't very rigorous and won't simulate enough of a load to find the problem. However, I'd start by making sure that the wiring doesn't look dodgy, and that all the connections are tight and not corroded. I have an intermittent bad connection in my battery cable end, and it manifests as lights working perfectly fine but starter just clicks (because it can't pull enough current through the dirty connection). The difficulty you're having with jumping it leads me to believe that either there's a bad connection somewhere not at the battery, or the battery or starter is actually bad.

tldr, hard to say over the internet.

coronaball
Feb 6, 2005

You're finished, pork-o-nazi!
Yeah, he showed me the meter on his jump box and the amps or voltage or whatever was in the green area so that part looks good. The positive terminal has corrosion, but not much and we brushed at it and had the same result.

I guess I'll have it towed to loving Sears and have them look at it. But if they try and tell me it's all good again I'm not leaving unless I walk out with a new battery.

Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal
Maybe go someplace besides Sears?

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

A bad battery can still show the right voltage under light load, then nosedive the moment any real load is applied to it. And that meter on the jump box was probably measuring the voltage of the battery in the jump box.

The clicking was probably the starter solenoid not getting enough power.

We've had nearly the same issue with the battery in the Avalon here - at random it just refuses to start, and the lights are always really dim when it happens. It can be parked 2 minutes and be nearly dead (8 volts at the battery), it can be parked a week and fire up fine. Interstate is refusing to replace it. Normally it fires right up with a jump, but there's been a couple of times where we have to sit there and let my car charge it for about 15 minutes before it'll even try to crank. I'm guessing it's an intermittent connection inside the battery.

Not saying that this is your issue, but it's been a pain in the rear end.

I agree with Raluek in that you should start by checking the ends of the battery cables. It's possible one of them has a loose connection, or has had a lot of corrosion build up inside the cable itself. I'd then check the ground cable between the battery and body, then from the body to the engine block.

A bad starter generally shows up as just a single click and the lights dimming (instead of a rapid clicking), followed rather quickly by the battery cables starting to smoke - or a click, and the lights don't even dim at all. The starter in my last car had a bad spot, if I kept tapping the key it'd eventually get to a spot where it could actually spin the engine, but if I held it while it was on that dead spot, the battery cables would start to smoke. Of course, you can get the same result from a battery that's just a little too weak to spin the starter (but a jump usually wouldn't get it to start, if that were the case).

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:34 on Apr 22, 2015

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

coronaball posted:

The positive terminal has corrosion, but not much and we brushed at it and had the same result.

Did you un-bolt the cable from the battery, and properly clean it with one of these?



If so, you're right, that's not your problem. If you just brushed off what was visible without taking the battery cable off the battery, then it could still be part of the problem.

coronaball
Feb 6, 2005

You're finished, pork-o-nazi!

Raluek posted:

Did you un-bolt the cable from the battery, and properly clean it with one of these?



If so, you're right, that's not your problem. If you just brushed off what was visible without taking the battery cable off the battery, then it could still be part of the problem.

I did not, but I have one of those. I'll do that tomorrow before I do anything.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Can anyone tell me roughly how many miles an E60 M5 clutch should last if the car isn't tracked and is driven by a dickhead investment banker? Less or more than a conventionally-clutched NA car with comparable power (like for example an up-gunned LS or something)?

epic bird guy
Dec 9, 2014

CharlesM posted:

Maybe go someplace besides Sears?

Agreed. If you've been to a place 3 times only to have them do nothing for you, its time to find a different place.

The Ass Stooge
Nov 9, 2012

a hunger uncurbed
by nature's calling
A little over three weeks ago, I bought a 2005 Civic sedan with 60k miles. The guy I bought it from couldn't tell me whether the timing belt had ever been replaced, so I decided to get it done immediately just in case. A day or two after I picked the car up from the shop, the belt started squealing quite a bit. I took it back and they said it was probably just the new belt stretching a bit, which is normal. They tightened it up and sent me on my way, and I didn't hear anything else until this morning, about two weeks later, when it started squealing again. It was pouring down rain this morning and I'm certain some water got splashed up into the engine compartment; if some got on the belt, could that cause the squealing? If not, and this is something I need to worry about, I guess I'll take it back to the shop and have them look at it again, but I'm not sure how long I should consider them on the hook for anything belt-related.

Sentient Data
Aug 31, 2011

My molecule scrambler ray will disintegrate your armor with one blow!
Water wouldn't do much for too long, but maybe the cam/crankshaft seals suck. Since you brought it into a shop they should have been done since 90% of the labor is getting the timing belt off (just like a water pump replacement) and they're <$10 in parts normally, but if you've got some bad ones or a bad valve cover gasket there might be a slow oil leak onto the belt. There's also the chance that the tensioner is bad, so check the invoice and make sure that was replaced (as long as it's part of a normal timing belt change for your model). Beyond that, make sure you have the right culprit - if you have auxiliary belts instead of just one giant serpentine belt, try to confirm which belt the squeak is coming from. Park the car, parking brake on, hood up with it running, and make sure you watch out for any loose clothes or long hair. If the belts themselves all seem good, try to identify which idler/pulley the squeak is coming from

coronaball
Feb 6, 2005

You're finished, pork-o-nazi!

coronaball posted:

I did not, but I have one of those. I'll do that tomorrow before I do anything.

Im text to speech posting so bear with me for any weird typos. Came back to car this morning. Still wouldn't start from park. I was sitting there bored waiting for the tow truck, so high put it in neutral, and it started right up. so now I don't know what the f*** is going on. some kind of ignition problem?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

coronaball posted:

Im text to speech posting so bear with me for any weird typos. Came back to car this morning. Still wouldn't start from park. I was sitting there bored waiting for the tow truck, so high put it in neutral, and it started right up. so now I don't know what the f*** is going on. some kind of ignition problem?

Could be a starter on it's way out, or if it's an automatic could be the sensor that tells the ECU what position the auto gearstick is in.

Try smacking the starter with something next time it won't start (stuck solenoid troubleshooting).

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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





The rear end Stooge posted:

A little over three weeks ago, I bought a 2005 Civic sedan with 60k miles. The guy I bought it from couldn't tell me whether the timing belt had ever been replaced, so I decided to get it done immediately just in case. A day or two after I picked the car up from the shop, the belt started squealing quite a bit. I took it back and they said it was probably just the new belt stretching a bit, which is normal. They tightened it up and sent me on my way, and I didn't hear anything else until this morning, about two weeks later, when it started squealing again. It was pouring down rain this morning and I'm certain some water got splashed up into the engine compartment; if some got on the belt, could that cause the squealing? If not, and this is something I need to worry about, I guess I'll take it back to the shop and have them look at it again, but I'm not sure how long I should consider them on the hook for anything belt-related.

Your car has at least two belts - the timing belt and the accessory belt(s). The timing belt can't slip - it's a toothed belt and slipping would mean the same type of damage to your engine as if the belt had failed altogether. The squealing you're hearing is the accessory belt, and yes they can do that when they get wet. Did they replace that too when they did the timing belt? If not, it's probably old and hard and needs to be replaced. If yes, the tensioner might be failing.

coronaball posted:

Im text to speech posting so bear with me for any weird typos. Came back to car this morning. Still wouldn't start from park. I was sitting there bored waiting for the tow truck, so high put it in neutral, and it started right up. so now I don't know what the f*** is going on. some kind of ignition problem?

Your car has a switch somewhere on it attached to the shifter linkage, that will only let the starter work if the transmission is in park or neutral. Given the intermittent nature of the problem so far I wouldn't say 100% that this is the problem, but it's quite likely. Next time it won't start in park, try starting it in neutral again. If it fires right up again that time, then you definitely need your neutral safety switch to be replaced.

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